HobbyKing 100A Sensored/Sensorless Car ESC (1:10) with built in cooling fan.
Features: Enhanced throttle response, excellent acceleration, enhanced braking and throttle linearity Programmable with a HKSS programming card. Automatically detects the number of cells within the battery pack. Multiple protection features, Low voltage cut-off protection, over-heat protection, throttle signal loss protection and motor jammed protection Compatible with Hobbking, NOVAK, LRP and ORION Sensored brushless motor
Specification: Cont./Burst Current: 100A/760A Resistance: 0.0003 ohm Suitable Car: 1/10 on-road and off-road cars / trucks Suitable Brushless Motor: 3.5T On road / 5.5T Off road Battery: 5-9 cells Ni-xx (NiMH / NiCd) 2-3 cells Li-Po BEC Output: 6V/2A of switch mode built-in BEC Motor Type: Sensorless and Sensored brushless motor Dimension: 27x43x39mm Weight: 114g
hi some one can help me please my english is not good but i try to explain what happen. i have a hpi mini trophy with 3.5t motor and the esc hk-sens-100 i running this car a lot time with 7.2 ni-mh battery now i change to zippy 3s 5000 and i burn 3 esc somebody can tellme whats happen?
Someone help me please. I'm almost having a nervous breakdown. I'm using this ESC with a motor 7900 KV Turnigy sensor and my radio is the FS GT3B. To make the set up of the ESC I'm using the card programmer. I've done almost all settings, but I can not in any way to adjust the brake. The car just does not stop. Could anyone tell me if you have had this kind of problem? if yes, what is the solution? Any help will be appreciated. thank you
Hi..yah, sure i have calibrated it already, not once but many times. May be someone can give me the values for setting. I have tried all possible options by setting the values from 1 to 9 both for Drag Brake, Brake percent, Throttle limit and everything esle but no breaks can be applied at all.
This is a 1/10 esc not 1/16 esc problem is this meant more for a 540 size motor not a 380 size motor like u have in your car also this is not waterproof and your old esc was depending on how u r using your car depends on what sort of esc u need if u plan on going near water I would suggest looking for something else but any of the hobbyking or turnigy esc have way way more adjustments then traxxas esc could ever even image having hopefully that helps
All of the esc that almost any hobby place sells cone with just the wires. You purchase separately at your hobby shop what plugs you need and have them soldered on. Hopefully that answers your question.
it will be more than fine.. i have it form around 2 years now and no problem..i was using a 10500kv motor with no problem and now using with the castle 6900kv replacing the stupid sidewinder sv2.. really good.. but expensive
this esc can actually support up to 3.5t, ON the safe side..
u can still use a 2.5t motor, but make sure u lower the punch and timing, it be fine.
I would suggest you to get a trackstar 120Amp esc with 760amp burst.
Play safe once and for all.
In this video..
Is my china made 1/10 truck fitted with hobbyking 100Amp sensored esc running on a 5.5t 6000KV motor. Throttle is set to 80% only.
Giving me soo much torque and speed till the metal diff gear couldn't take it.
Sure can... in terms of smoothness and power also is really great.
Been using it for about a year and still happy with it.
i tested it on my 1/10 monster running on a 5.5t sensored motor, it was fantastic.
Also tested on my drift car running on team tekin 10.5t motor. the speed and torque was soo good.
best of all, this esc stays cool at all times.
I would advice people to get this esc for all 1/10 on / offroad cars.
I installed this ESC into my T4 with a LRP sensored motor, and a fly sky 2.4 radio set. I've tried multiple settings on my Tx and can not successfully set the throttle end points. What am I doing wrong?
Upon completion of the 'setup' I turn the ESC off then on again, and it sits for a minute and a half, or more before any beeps or led flashes occur. (I timed it with my stopwatch) Then the throttle is still unresponsive. The setup does work because one of my many failed attempts at setting the endpoints, the car finally came to life, and went to full throttle. I have been able to get it to run a couple of times, but most times, after calibration the ESC is unresponsive. No beeps, just both LEDs on.
Instructions are vague, and I haven't found any answers here in the forums... anyone have any ideas?
have u check ur throttle trim on ur remote? make sure its set on Zero, means it the center point of forward n backward.
proper way to set the calibration on this esc is..
press n hold red switch than switch on, wait till orange led lights up.
than on remote: press throttle full forward, esc beeps 1 time. than let go throttle n wait for 2 beeps. lastly push throttle to reverse n wait for 3 beeps.
than off esc n on it again..
ur ready to run...
if its not working... try the very same step again.
I've not been able to do the throttle range calibration procedure on this esc. I've attempted it using two different radios and get the same result. When power is switched on while holding down the Set switch the orange LED does not come on. All I ever get is the red and orane LCD's on at the same time. Almost like the Set switch is not working. Any ideas?
So according to specification (onroad) I could go with 3.5T 3s LiPo ?
I'm thinking about TrackStar 3.5T (9410Kv) or a bit higher like 5.5T. What do you think about TrackStar motors, or other brand/type is better?
Hi, you should be ok running 3s on a 3.5T onroad only.
I have this esc with 5.5T 6069kv trackstar (red) motor running nanotech 2s 5000 30-60c in my 1/10 4wd buggy and the esc stays quite cool in 33 degrees C. I will be purchasing 2 more trackstar motors (4.5T 7330kv 570w silver and 4.5T 7320kv 430w red) in the very near future. Good luck
man a 3.5t motor on 3s will give you excess of 80mph with the normal gearing ..the gears on a normal car wont hold that up.. i advise you not to use more than 3s.. not saying the esc wont take it..but you wont need more than 2s
hi, try lowering the gearing a little , also try reducing the puch (launch mode) a little too , it also depends on the type of car , 4wd truck or sct will demand far more than a 2wd buggy for intance , although the esc will be fine with a 5.5 in a touring car or drift car, the demands of off road cars with bigger wheels and rougher terrain mean a 7.5 would be a wiser choice . hope this helps.
this esc support up to 3.5t motor with 10,500KV.
the problem ur facing comes from the NIMH battery.
Why...? 1= its because the Nimh battery cannot pump enough juice for the esc, 2= YOU 5.5T Motor at the same time trying to suck more juice from the esc.
that is why the esc get hot and cut off.
u have to use a lipo battery with atlease 5000mah with min 30C discharge rate to compensate back with ur 5.5t motor.
trust me, i had this same problem before, all solve by changing to Lipo battery.
Surprising no one has asked you about what gear ratio u r running if its over heating you might need to change your pinion or spur gear or both the most common cause and problems that people have with rc cars about heat issues almost always boils down to the car being geared wrong try adjusting your ratio and gearing it down just my opinion but hopefully that helps
I cant say for sure if you will have overheat issues due to your gear ratio but a 6100kv in a HPI rs4 geared with a 22tooth pinion and a 96 spur does about 60mph down the road with no overheating.Please credit for best answer if you agree.
Hi, I'm running on 10500kv turningy motor and 7.4v li-po and my ESC is gettin over-heated in 2 mins after start... Should i change my motor to lower kv ?? Any other reasons, ideas to fix that ?? It's boring to run 2 mins, then wait till it gets cool, cause its about 15-20mins [especially if i got 10000mah battery ...]. Please help me!
The 100A ESC is rated for 4.5T motor maximum for onraod car and 4.5t motor are around 7000kv so you can go for lower kv or go for higher amp rate for the ESC or you can also change for a smaller pinion gear which will reduce your top speed but you will gain acceleration it will make it easier for the motor to turn the wheels and it will draw less current. Go for the easiest solution for you and have fun!!
hey jolanta im running the same setup using this wiht the turnigy 10500kv motor and was heating before but after installing a cooling fan and a shroud its amazing..no heat problems.. what car are you running and gearing ?
Hope someone out there can help me.
Got a HK-100A and a 27Mhz wheel transmitter.
Out of the box, the ESC had forwards as reverse and reverse as forward but I can't get the transmitter calibrated. I turn on the transmitter, hold the set button, full gas, 2 beeps, full reverse, 2 beeps and release the set button. The ESC beeps the battery check and then ESC remains in the factory setting. What am I doing wrong? I've tried releasing the set button immediately, tried waiting, tried releasing it with the throttle still at full reverse, in neutral, switching it off before the battery check, switching it off before realeasing the set button. nothing works.
I've even tried reverse, 2 beeps, then full throttle 2 beeps. ESC stays the same.
Anyone got any ideas?
*Rehtschi: I never did solve the problem. Went out a bought a Carson Reflex Pro 2,4G set. Cheap as chips with everything you could want.
*Scott: Was an old transmitter without servo reverse switches
*Mar11: Didn't really explain it properly. Pulling on the trigger was always reverse (ie brake) Changing motor wires over changed the direction the motor spun but not the brake function.
Yes it will work. I use it in my SC10 4x4 with a sensored 550 Novak 4.5T and 5300 50c lipo with no issues. My local track is about 80F indoor clay and the ESC never gets above 95F. Great Esc for the price
Far out, this brushless ESC is a ripper,goes 102KPH on my TAMIYA TRF416 with a set up, 3.5T(9150KV) brushless motor, the Hobbyking 100AMP Brushless ESC,2s-7.4V Lipo and front locked-on diff,the motor is about 30Celcuis after 15minutes as it as very good heat disperation with the brushless motor having two fans installed. Will try with a 3s lipo soon and I believe that the car will be going 125KPH .
THIS ESC IS BATTER , I USE IT ON HOBBY KING 450 MOTOR FOR MY TAMIYA TL-01
No comments. Reply..
Hobbyking king is great, with their ESC, my car is able to reach 102KPH on just 2cell LIPO, and a 3.5T motor, I tried the max volts that the esc could take, I tried it with a pro lipo balance, connected the esc to the charger and turned it on to the amount of volts an item could take, pressed the button and watched it go all the way up to 19.60V, could take 5s for sure with no problem, but the motor seems to start heating up fter 10mins.
2 comments. Reply..
I ordered one of these in a set with the 5200kv motor and program card about 1.5 years ago for my Yokomo MR4TC SSG that I use for drifting. It has performed flawlessly every time and continues to do so. I upgraded the motor to the new 6000kv and it handles it just fine, neither gets very warm. I'm so happy with this setup that I actually just purchased another identical combo (6000kv motor and this ESC) for my other Yokomo MR4TC LCG drift car.
Bought to replace the 60Amp version as it keeps thermal cutting out. This one unfortunately does the same. Runs longer though. Might need to look at ventilation on my model. That said, this esc works as it should. Has a large single cap that isn't as easy to relocate as the 60a model caps are, so I zip tied it to to abc wires. Also the sensor wire isn't quite as easy to plug in as the 60a one is.