This superb looking P-51D is from our top quality Durafly range and has enough scale detail and features to keep any warbird enthusiast happy. The 1100mm range offers the RC pilot a practical size model that can be easily transported and uses the ever popular 2200mAh 3s Lipoly pack, yet at the same time, the model is large enough to have presence and is able to tackle most airfields, not to mention a little wind, making it very practical.
As well as looking fantastic, this Mustang is plug and fly, meaning very little assembly work is needed. The powerful outrunner motor, ESC, navigation lights, servoless electric retracts & servos are all pre-installed leaving you to glue on the tailfeathers and some scale detailing, bolt on the plug in wings and go flying!
We have flown this superb P-51 extensively during testing and it will not disappoint, there is plenty of power for those really scale warbird aerobatics and the airframe is viceless with no hint of a tip stall. The pre-installed flap servos have a nice, slow operation to help prevent ballooning and the flaps themselves allow the approach speed to get down to a crawl without a hint of wingrock. There is no doubt, this is one fantastic looking warbird and it flies as easily as a low wing trainer!
2-blade prop question, and interesting motor issue... First, is anyone flying this on 11x7?? I believe 12x6 is recommended 2 blade, I'm just curious if anyone is flying successfully with 11x7 to provide better ground clearance - what is the performance diff. between 11x7 & 12x6. 2) Something strange happens with the stock motor on this plane* It spins freely EXCEPT right after powered down!! Immediateley after unplugging Lipo, the motor has a very substantial resistance (it won't spin nearly as freely as when it's been off for a while). I've never experienced this with any other brushless motors- is this normal?? Is this a temporary inductance from begin powered up? Would love to hear your thoughts!!
This is normal, I believe this has something to do with the brake function that you would use for a folding prop. Mine did the same thing. Have you noticed if the prop freewheels when the motor is still powered up but the throttle is all the way down? In any case, nothing to worry about.
Also, about the prop, it is my opinion that the 11x7 prop is too small for this plane. the 750kv motor doesn't spin it fast enough to make best use of it's power. 12x6 may be too large, though. If you want to use a 2 blade, I think I would put an 850 kv motor from the t-28 durafly in it, that or go to a 4 cell. I use a 4 cell 2200mah bat, and a 50 amp speed controller in my mustang with the stock prop, it is great.
I switched to a plush 60amp and 11x7 on 4s. Is prob overkill, but too much esc never hurt anyone. I may run 11x9 or 10 pitch.. I also have an 1100kv 3536, I may put new motor on, but would like to see what she can do with stock motor on 4s lipo. Wheels concern me, on grass.. Looking to replace wheels with foam, but hopefully avoid modding wheel wells..anyone know the appropriate wheels?
The stock prop is approximately a 10.5x7 or 8, x2 basically because it is a 4 bladed prop. Even on 4s with an 11x9 or 10 prop, you will have less power than the same stock setup on 3s batteries. I would go to the 1100kv motor and a 10x4 or 10x5 prop with the 4s battery, problem solved. Do you have an amp/watt meter? do some checks, you will see for yourself. I have verified these things by running quite a few tests on the 750kv and 850kv durafly motors. I don't think foam wheels will help you if you use the same diameter wheels. only a larger diameter wheel, or possibly wider might help. If you feel any of this helps you, please click the best answer button, thanks!
I have a watt meter.. some of those numbers just dont make sense to me - I read meter on 3S w/ stock, 12x6 and 11x7 props. I also read alot of guys prefer 2-blader over 4 for torque reasons (claim of needing alot of rudder to take-off).. I would be disappointed if I can't get her to perform on 4S w/ an 11-SOMEthing, on stock motor. Also, going to 1100kv, moving to 10x4 or 5 seems like a drastic move, are you certain of these numbers?? Curious to know what would be a good compromise setup that would allow me to run BOTH 3S and 4s 2200 packs..
Your 4 bladed prop is the equivelent of 2 10.5x8 inch props. This is why the KV is so low for the stock motor. I think even an 11x10 will give you less power than the stock prop. The easiest thing to do would be a 50 amp esc and 4s 2200mah battery with the stock prop. This is what I use with terrific results in my Mustang. you could still go back and use a 3 cell 2200 as well. I had to space my 4s battery back about 1 inch for proper CG. I pushed a 1 inch foam block up into the nose of the plane, still room to put on the canopy. The best way to test this stuff is to just try the different combos. I just mounted stuff to a board in my garage and tested it. That's half the fun! Good luck!
Sounds good - Im going to do that. I think I might end up running a 2-blader for now though, just so I dont sacrifice the 4-blader getting used to it.. I taxi-tested on my grass field this wknd and it certainly has some trouble in spots.. Ground clearance on prop. and better grass-compatible wheels seem like a must. I need to find a good set of foam wheels.. I sold my tire truer, otherwise I'd just reshape a few I have already..
Thanks for the points! You can't be sure about anything until you try it. I made a little test rig that has a pull scale on it so that I can measure the thrust and check the watts and amps at the same time. Very handy for finding the best combinations. I like the Master Airscrew electric only props and the scimitar Master Airscrew props, they seem to perform the best of the ones I have tried.
There is a free calculator on line called ecalc. you can plug in some of your combinations and see what it says. I looked for the 3536 750 kv motor in the mustang and they don't show it on their list. This calculator might get you in the ballpark. I looked back at some of my notes and the 12x6 2 blade is the only prop that came close to the stock 4 blade that I tested. Good Luck!
I was all set to order this until the shipping charge to central U.S.A. went over my budget and I had to wait for another once a month payday. By then it was on 'backorder'. Any way to get reduced shipping charges, or is it cheaper to order from U.S. warehouse, which is also always on backorder?
Trying to order this plane from KS, USA. Apparently they can't ship it from Hong Kong due to the package size being over 1M long?? Has anyone else in the region ordered it from Hong Kong? It's currently back ordered at US warehouse. Wonder how long till they get more stock
The two plugs for 'each channel' just get plugged into a Y-lead (included) and then into the single channel slot in your receiver. You do end up with rather a 'pile of wires' in the receiver compartment though.
I use a setting of 4 seconds on my flaps. Kinda slow, but it looks scale and doesn't give you that instant nose up/climb that you would get from a standard speed.
You can replace the flap servo with just about any servo that will fit, but I would suggest buying 2 servos and replacing both flaps at the same time.
Thanks for the points! Make sure your plane won't have a ground clearance issue with a 12 inch prop. If it looks like it might hit when you land, maybe try an 11x8 or something close. 9 inch is way to small for a 750kv motor. Have a good day, I wish you many successful flights!
There is one thing I'd like to mention though. And this goes out to those who don't know yet. We all know that the 4 bladed prop on the P-51 is not very strong. I've broken off 3 already myself. So I went to my local hobby store and got a 2 bladed Master Airscrew one. I must say this prop is quite impressive. Extremely strong! I've hit the ground hard several times with this prop and no damage whatsoever! You might want to try it some time. It costs less than $3.
Okay, after double checking my radio's manual I found a section there titled End Point Adjustment (EPA). Normally the default control settings of a Tx is at 100% (well at least my RDS8000 Airtronics is) So I set my throttle's EPA at 150% max. Tested the motor again and now it sounds much stronger. Also I noticed that my elevators were not moving far enough (up or down) so I likewise adjusted it's EPA. It's looking good so far on my work bench. But still need to test it in the field. As soon as the winds die down.
Ok, I should have asked about the prop. What size and pitch is it? This could be why it feels like it has no power. The equivilent of the 4 blade you took off is approx. a 12x6 2 blade. Anything smaller will give you less power.
Thank you for your inputs. * greammnky...Yes my battery is new. I'm using a 2500mAh 3 cell 11.1 volt battery. Fully charged at 4.19/cell. The plane never left the ground. I crashed twice on take-off (I'm thinking due to lack of power) but that's it. I was thinking about the ESC as well but wasn't sure. I will try a new one. But how can I tell if the ESC has the right programming? What's the basis?
*Ibrahim...I have an RDS 8000 Airtronics radio. I've read the manual and can't seem to find the throttle curve adjustment section. Will this be the same as "trimming"? What section is this under? Please advice. Appreciate the help guys! Awesome!
I have a similar problem. New plane, 2200 mAh 3s. Everything set ok in TX. When I move throttle handle to full the prop spins with no power and then only after 5-8 seconds it gets power and spins fully. Then it responds slowly to throttle input (moving handle up and down shows in a delayed response on the prop). I know flying but don't know electronics so well, so my first thought was that the ESC was faulty. Any ideas? Anyone with same problem?
If you hit the reply button when you respond, you can give us credit if you feel we are helping you. Thanks! I am not familiar with your radio, I have the Turnigy 9X and it has what is called End Point Range Adjustment. It is possible if yours has this setting for the throttle it is turned down. This should be set at 100%. Do you have the ability to check your Amps/Watts? This would settle the question for good. It should pull between 25 and 30 amps stationary at full throttle. Your battery is a little larger than recommended, this also might be causing it to be nose heavy/hard to take off. do you push the battery all the way forward? I run mine on a 4 cell battery 2200mah which is heavier than stock and I have a 1 inch thick foam block up in the nose of my mustang for proper CG. Be sure and check your CG. I also have the F4 and both my planes have a wicked hook to the left when you take off. You really have to stay on the rudder taking off. As far as your speed controller goes, most of them have a parameter to restore them to factory default settings. I would try this first before changing other parameters. Look under the files tab above or under any of the durafly planes to see if you can find the directions to program your esc. They all use the same esc. Good luck, keep us posted. Thanks for your input too, Ibrahim!
It's going to have to be a process of elimination. Did it ever fly well or is it brand new? Is it the proper battery for the plane? Is the battery new? It could be as simple as wrong programming in the speed controller. Can you try another speed controller? Do you have an Amp/Watt Meter? It should be pulling about 25 to 30 amps with a recommended 3 cell 2200 battery. Good Luck, let us know how it goes...
well its scale flying if you want speed get a 4s battery i use a rhino 1750 20c and a zippy compact 2700 25c and the stock motor but changed the esc to a 60amp but thats me you really only need a 50 amp esc i always was told by a old guy that was flying for 32 years when it comes to the esc bigger is better but also know that over kill is always a issue when it comes to money. the stats i got were the 750kv stock motor 50esc with the stock prop 534 watts and 34 amps.the other p51 i changed the motor for the 850kv from the stuka and the 60 esc i got 661watts and46 amps (on the above batteries on a average of both batteries with two test each )remember if you fly full throttle all the time your gonna push everything and heat up so still know your limits i would get a watt meter and check for your self there cheap and easy to use in the long run knowing is half the battle for what you want to do and cuold be cheaper than burning things up if this is fairly new to you i would stick with the stock setup for a while there is alot to know before you go all out with speed....i think you will be happy with the stock setup if anything go with a 30c 2200 3s battery and maybe a 11x8 or even a 12x6 2 blade prop.
ya the planes are great to fly and handle very well,the 2200 batts balance well and go for at least 6 min. at fun flying at 3/4, and i love the low level flying at that speed and wot.something about being 2 feet off the deck at full throttle and then climbing back up for another pass without destroying her.
your right depends on you and your flying.i run both 22oo/25c and a 2650/40c and get 6 to 7 min. on both of them. the 2200/25c i fly anywhere from takeoff* 3/4 throttle and fly at just above 1/2 throttle with some slow flybys in there also,on the 2650/40c i takeoff the same *3/4 throttle and just fly at that speed with some high speed passes and land after 6 min. alarm goes off.also i have changed the esc to a 40amp just for extra protection while i use the 40c battery better safe than sorry.but stock setup is great fun with the 2200 batt.
I used a 50 amp speed controller and a 4s 2200mah battery in mine, it flies vertical effortlessly. Mine pulls 36 to 38 amps with the 4 cell batt. I kept everything else the same. prop, etc. need to shift the 4cell battery back about 1 inch, I put a 1 inch thick foam block pushed up in the nose of my plane for proper CG.
i have the p51 and the f4u and i would say the best for you would be the the mustang its a little easier to land because of the landing gear on the spit is a little closer together and makes landings a little harder thats just my opinion.i will be getting the spit but right now i have the ******** spit and she is a little tricky to land sometimes.
The mustang has been out for a while, it is easier to find and probably easier to get parts for. I would go with the mustang myself, I have read they are having some minor issues with packing and broken parts on the spitfire. Also if you look at the spitfire the landing gear are really close together, it makes a plane trickier to land like that. Mustang lands beautifully, very forgiving. Gear are wide apart and raked forward so no drama. Happy Flying!
I have the P-47, the P-51, the Corsair, and haven't maidened the Spitfire. These are my favorite planes of all for flying and transportation ease. The P-47 is my favorite, closely followed by the Mustang, then the Corsair, but their is very little difference in their flying performance in my opinion. If you like the Mustang the best, you really can't go wrong with this model. I use 3s 2200ma batteries in all and Master Airscrew 12 x 8 props for less torque on takeoff and higher speed. These planes fly fantastic and are easy to land.
Hey guys, which Durafly warbird is the best overall, Like easy to fly, landing, most durable, fastest n slowest, And which one does not need mods right from purchase. I do not own any of them, but the Spitfire and the mustang are the two that grab my attention. I would really appreciate some wise info from the pro's that own them. Thanks to anybody that can help me choose....
Try this, HK-15094M It is exact replacement EXCEPT the wire is very short, you will need servo extension leads.
1 thumbs up!
I maidened mine this evening - SkyLipo 2200mah 3-cell pack, everything else completely stock. Slight crosswind, WSW @ 8-10 mph gusting around 15.
As others have reported, the pushrods are a little confusing at first take. I ended up swapping the flap and aileron pushrods, adjusting the allen screw on the control horn to fix both the elevator and rudder, and finally I actually had to unscrew the elevator horn and re-orient it because mine was centered about 45 degrees to the rear as opposed to a straight 90 degree angle to the fuselage.
One mistake I made was trying to lessen the load on the rudder pushrod by placing the clevis in the outermost hole. After the first takeoff nearly pulled me into the weeds, I adjusted it to the innermost hole with much better success on the next takeoff roll. Recommend others do the same - You are going to need a lot of right boot on takeoff, and if you don't have enough, your takeoff will suffer a wide left arc.
Once in the air it is pretty mild-mannered and I was surprised that it actually flew more like a "warbird" than I initially suspected it would. Airspeed is indeed necessary, and you can fall off the table in a stall if you screw around and get slow. It isn't a difficult plane to fly by any means, but it is no T-28 as far as the forgiving characteristics go, and that isn't necessarily a bad thing!
Flaps made landing reasonably easy, a
8 comments. Reply..
Got this gorgeous Mustang from my wife for Xmas. It arrived about 2 weeks later in perfect condition!
The plane is absolutely stunning, tons of detail and quality everywhere. Paint job is beautiful and the fuel tanks on the wings are really cool! Build time was very quick and I'm extremely pleased with the Durafly range.
Have not flown it yet since it's winter here but I'm reading lots of good flight reviews.
I' definitely recommend it!
Awesome job HK! The quality of the kit is superb. One piece wing that is removable with four main screws.
The detail is exceptional, as is the fit and finish. The cowl is hard plastic, not flimsy like many other models. Retracts have metal trunions (tail not retractable). The cockpit is highliy detailed and snaps in place.
The battery compartment fits the flightmax, zippy, and Turnigy 2200mah well. If you want larger battery, a longer pack would fit easily, as would one a few millimeters larger in height and width, but too much would require removing some foam.
The lights are labelled channel 2 and the elevator was labelled channel 3 (as was the esc), so simply plug lights into another open channel, or plug your esc into the third branch of the y-harness then plug the lights into channel 3 and your elevator into channel 2 as it should be.
Kit includes some extra clevis and even some rubber grommets to ensure they stay closed. Kit includes extra wing bolts and extra spinner screw (extra's usually unheard of).
The drop tanks slide into rails, so they are easily removed.
All of the control rods for the ailerons an flaps were 1/2 inch or more too long, so I had to cut and add new z-bends.
17 comments. Reply..
This is a great looking model for the $$! I have the P-51 and the Corsair. Both look great! They go together very easily. The kits arrived in good condition and were packed neat and orderly. All parts are packed in individual wrapping making them easier to identify and find. If You live in the U.S. expect to wait a while for the order to arrive. But considering the quality and the price, well worth the wait!!!! The decals could be better but again, a supremely scale looking 6 channel warbird at an extremely reasonable price!!!
1 comment. Reply..
It looks great, flies great, response great. Enough power for scale flying and has got strong and durable retract gear. Flaps make landing easier. Very recommendable.