Hallo , Ich habe mit den LI-FE 4500, 2S/2P riesen Probleme,!!!!! Ich abe ein absolut neues und ungebrauchtes Li-Fe Akku Pack 2S/2P und die sind VOR dem erstgebrauch schon so stark geblä*ht, dass ich sie kaum mehr in meinen Flieger einbauen werde,!!!! mfg aus Zü*rich Luna-one
I'm really disappointed with this buy.. About 2 months and just 2 cycles, 1 out of 3 cells became puffy. I used to recommend LiFePo4 batteries to buddies because of it's high durability then this happened. Anybody has the same experience? Just how safe is a LiFePo4 in a puffy state as compared to Lipo? I still use my puffy lipos in its puffy state for low discharge applications and have no issues of it bursting into flame etc. As discussed in numerous hobby forums, lipos aren't that exaggeratingly dangerous as all the warning claims. But I'm not so sure about LiFePo4 though.. Just how safe is a a LiFePo4 in a puffy sate? Anybody with any experience?
You can always run any battery in series or parallel to increase voltage or capacity, respectively. The batteries must be similar in voltage and capacity, of course, and the best results are with batteries that are of the same age.
The esc wont recognise it it will just cut off before the pack is completely discharged you can turn the cut off off with LIFEPO and just stop running when the model slows down I use the castle Monster and sidewinder ESC's and just leave them on auto lipo beware they are tall packs compared to the equivalent LIPO
hello u have to setup your charger in mode '' life '' not lipo or lioi because they use 4.2O and 4.1O v but lifepo4 is use 3.65 volts for charge maxi ( ur charger will not detect how it could detect a full charged lifepo4 bat at 3.65 volts and a empty lipo bat at 3.65 volts ? it can detect by volts !! u have to do by yourslelf or use a charger special for lifepo4) (if u don't want they become like a ballon ) i have pack of lifepo4 i can tell it's nice although they a little less volts than lipo their lifetime is better about 2OOO charge ,even 1OOO charge is well enough good luck for your charge !
thank you all I managed this issue by using the voltage detector. As most of the ESC can not figure out the battery type (Life or Lipo) but I prefer the Lipo as it offers More Voltage and I need more power in my RC
Noob with Life batteries, i'd like to know which wire i need to charge them with my imax B6 charger, which wire i need to "balance" these Life and also which wire i need to connect them on my traxxas Rustler (pls can you put links to them ?).
dude.. no difference there to the lipos.. HXT 4mm gold and JST XH balancers. imax has alread the right balancer connectors. and as for the charge wire you could just use the chargecable with the clips. for the car: do some soldering yourself
lets try the www.link or just look for "4mm hxt"
The little plug (balancer): you just plug it into the balance board on your imax, it fits directly. But you might need to change plugs on the battery unless you use 4mm gold plugs on your charger! Now, i don't know which plugs you use on your rustler but you gotta make it match *)
might be the only lifepo4 cells on the market that fit into a graupner mc20/24 and so an series transmitter slot to replace the old 8S Sub-C packs. but you have to "cut them in have". 3s1p should fit nicely i think.
I successfully repacked a 6s2p into 2 packs of 6s1p. Because of the configuration you have to disassemble the whole pack into single cells. And then make the new pack. It's possible and not too difficult. These are no a123 cells, the cells are not cilindrical. These look like regular lipo's (although they have life chemistry inside). They are taped together cell by cell so you'll have to use a knife to slide in between the cells to sepperate them. You will need a soldering iron if minimum 75W. But if you repack them make sure you put an outer layer to the pack to protect the cells from the sun. I learned the hard way...
Help please, just got one of those and I need to know: Is this the type of Lifepo4 that can really be discharged fully without worrying about safety like Lipos? And I have the Imax 6B Charger balancer which says it is Life compatible, is it? I will be using it on 1/10 car or truck for bashing. Awaiting your kind help.
I have them, because they are 99% failsave
They won't burn
You can charge them with 22,5A Max
Discharge max is 2 Volt per Cell (6Volt for 3s)
But even you discharge them lower, they will not explode, like Lipos !
Just be wear, that if you run the pack all the way dead the cycle time will be alot less buy like a 1/4. They say 1000 cycle at normal use, but taking them to dead state maybe 250 or less. But running them till you see a drop in power is the best way.
my battery came in today..quick del time..but when i checked it on my triton eq charger 5 cells where 3.60 volts one the number 6 cell would not go over 3.37/38 is this a bad cell?also i am useing a 80amp plush esc on nixx 45% cutoff..with auto detect.is this a good set up?
LiFe cells have a maximum voltage when being charged of 3.6V, and they won't go beyond this because of their chemistry. This is why they are safe compared with LiPo, which don't have a maximum charge voltage and continue to charge and heat up. The nominal charge voltage for LiFe is 3.3V, and if you give your battery a discharge cycle down to 3.3V everything will even up. Your battery is good.
I use a Turnigy Plush 60A ESC and programming card, but I set it up differently, with a medium cutoff threshold on Lixx. The nominal charge voltage for LiPo is 3.7V, and for LiFe it is 3.3V. The minimum voltage is 3.0V/cell for LiPo, and 2.0V/cell for LiFe.
For my 6S LiFe the charge voltage is 6x3.3 or 19.8 V, which the ESC sees as a 5S LiPo, which is 5x3.7 or 18.5V. The ESC beeps five times to confirm this just before the final long beep. The medium cutoff LiPo threshold in the ESC sets 2.85V/cell for the 5S LiPo that it can see, which is 5x2.85 (14V) when applied to the 6S LiFe battery. This is 2.3V per cell, which is just about right. LiFe will go lower, but there is not a lot of energy left at 2V.
If you are setting up the ESC for NiCd, then, if it works the same as for the LiPo setup, it will see your 6S LiFe as 16 NiCd cells (1.2V/cell). Does it beep 16 times to confirm this? That signal may only work for Lixx cells. The cutoff threshold that you have set is 45% of the initial voltage of the battery, or 0.45x19.8 = 8.9V. This is too low for 6 LiFe cells. The 60% setting is better, at 11.9V, but this is just below the minimum of 2V/cell. I think that it is better to set up in Lixx mode and get a threshold of 2.3V/cell.
thankyou harry..that was rock solid info..will use your formual to set up..you also set my mind at easy with the volts concerns..thankyou again..p.s what charger and power supply do you use to get quick charges..i have triton eq..and it only charges at 2.1 at home and 2.8 at my car battery..doing my 6s life 4500amp battery
Jack, could you please let Paul know that he has a reply.
No worries, glad to help.
Sorting out the right charger to use starts with the battery capacity in mAh and volts. A LiPo battery can be charged at 1C, which means that (for instance) a 2000mAh battery, which is a 2amp hour battery, can be charged at 2 amps. If you charge it at 2 amps for an hour, you add 2 amp hours of charge to it. Therefore the basic charge time for a LiPo battery is one hour, charging at the maximum allowable current of 1C amps.
The charging rate is also limited by the available current capacity of the charger, and its power rating in watts, which is the product of amps and volts. A 5 amp charger is good for a 5 amp hour LiPo battery, provided that the charging power required is less than the power rating of the charger. A lot of LiPo chargers have a power rating of 50 watts, so a battery voltage greater than 10V will exceed the power rating (5 amps x 10 volts). If you charge a 5S LiPo (about 20V) with a 50 watt charger, the charger will reduce the charge current to 2.5V to keep the power at 50 watts. This will charge a 2.5 amp hour 5S LiPo in one hour, but it will take 2 hours to charge a 5 amp hour 5S LiPo (2.5 amps x 2 hours).
You can play with all sorts of combinations of battery size, battery numbers and charger size to arrange a battery size/charger capacity combination that will allow you to fly at the frequency you want to.
When it comes to LiFe batteries, it becomes a lot simpler. A123 cells have a capacity of 2.3 amp hours, and the Turnigy batteries have a capacity of 4.55 amp hours because they are based on two 2.225 amp hour cells in parallel. The great advantage of LiFe is that they can be charged at 5C, which means that basic charge times can be 1/5 hour or 12 minutes.
However, to get this charge time you have to be able to charge at 5C, with a charger that has this current capacity and a power capacity greater than 5C x battery voltage.
There are 10 amp and 20 amp chargers, which can charge A123 cells at 4C (4 x 2.3 = 9.2 amps), and the paired Turnigy cells also at 4C (4 x 4.45 = 17.8 amps). Charging at 4C gives a basic charge time of hour. At these currents a 6S1P A123 20 volt battery (which is what I use) needs a charger capacity of 182 watts (9.2x20=184 watts). A 3S2P Turnigy 10 volt battery needs a charger capacity of 178 watts (17.8x10=178 watts).
I have a iCharger 106B+ which is rated at 10 amps and 250 watts, so it is able to charge a 6S LiFe at 10 amps, and can even charge (but not balance) a 8S LiFe at 9.3 amps. Because the battery capacity is only 2.3 amp hours, I keep motor current down to around 35 amps maximum by using a larger motor, and get flight times that I limit to eight minutes. Recharge only takes 10 or 12 minutes, so I can get in lots of flights in a morning on only one battery. With two LiFe batteries the only limitation is the speed with which you can swap batteries between charger and plane.
I have also now ordered a Turnigy 6S2P battery, realising that I have now doubled the capacity, so my flight times are doubled, and my nominal recharge times will double to about 30 minutes. Whether another battery, or a 20 amp charger (perhaps the iCharger 206B) is the best next step I havent quite figured out yet, but the extra battery option looks a lot cheaper. Maybe I can work out how to unpack the battery and turn it into two 6S1P packs, so I dont need either another battery or another charger.
The ideal charger for the Turnigy 4.55 amp hour packs is a 20 amp charger, but for 3S LiFe you are not really challenging its power capacity.
For field charging you need an auto battery, because the input current required is 250 watts/ 12 volts or 21 amps. The i106B+ has a 5 amp 12 volt input as well, and I use a 5amp 14 volt power pack for charging at home. That means that I have to limit the charging current to 2.5 amps so as not to exceed the power rating of the power pack or this input.
thanks again..now i understand the Principal idea now..electric is alittle too expensive when it comes to chargers and power supply,going back to gas..for the price of a charger and power supply i can get a DLE 30 gas engine.lol
Yes Craig. 2P does not help. I am an A123 convert and fly 6S1P in the A123 cells (2300mAh), and by proper motor and prop choice to keep current to around 35 amps, I can get 7 minutes or so flight times and 10 minute recharges.. With 6S2P I could fly the same plane for twice as long, but be rather handicapped by carrying a brick.
The preferred configuration would be 6S1P or 8S1P, which can be charged by eg iCharger 106B at 10 amps, and still give acceptable flight times for 40 to 60 size planes, which can be very nicely powered using 6S. Lugging 900 grams in a plane this size is not an attractive option. If we want to go there we can do our own combinations.
So, HK, how about re-considering these configurations to give us a more practical choice? I can't see how 3S2P weighing 461 gm could ever be an attractive choice for a 3S powered plane.
OK, I have assumed that a symmetrical pack (2 rows of cells) would be simpler to form up and package. The cells in the Turnigy batteries appear (from the photo, I don't have one in my hand) to be arranged side by side in pairs, rather than stacked one on top of the other as in a LiPo battery. Hence they would be convenient to supply in multiples of two cells. I use 6S LiFe as a direct replacement for a 5S LiPo, and that works well. I am adding a 2S LiFe to it to get noticeably more thrust from the motor I am using at the same sort of current. Adding just one more cell does not contribute all that much, whereas two more makes a real difference. And my charger can handle 8 cells in a non-balance charging configuration.
The voltage equivalence of LiFe and LiPo batteries is not precise. If we take a steady operating voltage of 2.9V for LiFe and 3.7 for LiPo it goes like this:
6S LiFe = 17.4 V, 5S LiPo = 18.5V, which is close enough 7S LiFe = 20.3V, 6S LiPo = 22.2V, so a 7S LiFe is halfway between a 5S and a 6S LiPo 8S LiFe = 23.2V, 7S LiPo = 25.9V, so 8S LiFe = 6S LiPo 9S LiFe = 26.1V, 8S LiPo = 29.6V, so 9S LiFe = 7S LiPo
So, with these operating voltages, a 8S LiFe would be a replacement for a 6S LiPo, which is why (along with the convenient configuration) it would be a preferred configuration for me.
Yes I understand that traditional Life cells need cut * 3.6v but there are new Life cells on the market that can be chaged to 4.2v by Thundersky. My question is are these the new stlye cells? (remember not 2 long ago you couldnt charge lipo past 1C? Now there are lipo cells that can charge over 5C. So HK are these the new style cells? Anyone..
NO the particularity of lifePo4 is the low voltage 3.6V per cell instead of 4.2V for lipo, there is NO lifepo4 on the market at 4.2V at the moment ( as far as i know,if you have such an information please share a link...) the other particularity is the quick charge ability, but recently lipo reached the 5C rate also. and finally longevity,with lipo you can count on 100cycles compares to lifepo4 1000 cycles(at least A123 style,time will tell for flat lifepo4) cheers
Actually the weight will be a good thing for land use as weight is usually added for stability while jumping, turning, etc. An example would be a heavier race truck will land better and have a more powerfull presents while racing around a track. It wont get pushed around as much by other trucks. (to a point)
I raced sc all summer. We never ran without adding at leaset 4-5oz to the trucks. Some tracks more. A slash with no weight and a 2 cell lipo is like a kite. Some of the sc10 guys were adding much more.
very good lifepo4 pack.I did bought two of this and use them in a boat and I'm very happy with this batteries . I have only one complain : this handling and shipping take too much (since I had paid and my package had leaved their warehouse it took two weeks ,and they say : "the package will be sent within 48hrs except for weekends".