Do you like fast planes? Then you will love the HobbyKing GL-Speedy Hotliner! Constructed from ultra smooth Fiberglass, laser cut plywood and balsa for a ridgid, slippery, high performace model. The HobbyKing GL-Speedy takes a variety of 28mm diameter motors for extreme prop driven airspeed, throttle down and prepare to get addicted to those high speed silent passes!
You will require a 28XX 2800~3300kvbrushless motor, three slimline wing servos, a 3~4S 2200mah lipoly battery, a 40~70amp ESC and your own transmitter and receiver (Tx/Rx) to complete this model.
Received the plane yesterday (12/02/13) and upon opening the well packed model everything seemed ok but on further inspection, not so good.... :-( Each individual item is well packed with each item in its own bag and taped to the inside of the box so it cannot move around, wings, tail surfaces and accessories are very good indeed, but that's where the praise ends. The fiberglass fuselage is very flimsy in construction with gel-coat not adhering to the glass fiber layup, there are star cracks and fractures at the rear of the fuselage near the vertical stabiliser. But by far the worse thing is the bent and twisted molding (see pics in file tab) and the rudder is twisted about 5-10 degrees from vertical and the fuselage is bent down and right when viewed from the front....? This will mean a rebuild of the fuselage consisting of cutting the fuselage in half, just behind the wing seat, and inserting a fiberglass bandage/tube inside and then fiber glassing the outside once the fin has been re-aligned. Will post more pics and comments as the build continues. I would not recommend this model for anyone that has not built before and if you get a fuselage like the one I got, and others, then some fiber glassing skills will also be needed.
I would second this experience. Multiple cracks throughout the fuselage. Warped tail. Wing damage.... packed in middle of a box with no other damaged items in the box. I think this item has big QA issues. Many other great things to buy on HK, but I would avoid this particular plane.
Fuselage was fixed by "gently" heating the fiberglass with a heat gun and twisting the fuselage into the right position before it went cold again. This works well (I didn't know you could do this with glass) but be very very careful as it will suddenly reach the point were it goes VERY soft and will collapse into a mess.
I needed to balance the wing as one wing was so much heavier than the other and would dip the right wing as soon as the model slowed, as for a turn or for landing. I added almost 1.5oz of lead to the left wing and now its very stable in flight but its important that you keep the speed up in turns and on landings. Great plane for blasting around the sky at the club and also great for the ridge when the wind gets up... :-)
Niner.... I had to remove the rear section of the fuselage and inserted balsa formers held in place with epoxy to stiffen the tail section, I will try to get some pics to post in the files section.
I only use medium CA to dribble into the cracks and as yet, have not finished the surface but will probably just cover with white electrical tape.
WHERE IS THE CG OF THE THIS PLANE. IN ARF VERSION SAYS 65-70MM AND IN PNF VERSION 42-46MM ? WHAT IS THE CORRECT? I ALREADY CRASHED ONE AND I'M WAITIN FOR THE SECOND ONE NOW (ARF). I DONT WANT TO CRASH SECOND ONE ALSO. FAILED TO LAUNCH... LAUNCH WAS GOOD ONLY FOR 5 SECONDS... THEN TURNED RIGHT AND FULL DOWN WITHOUT REASON.
I found that the biggest problem with this model was the wing imbalance.... I had to add about 1.5 oz of lead to one wingtip to balance the wing. Mine to dipped its wing to the right and almost stalled and needed a lot of trim to keep it flying flat.
I also found that this model needs speed to keep flying and has to be flown at around twice the speed at landing than I would normally expect.
CG on mine is around 60-65mm from the leading edge and now seems to fly good, but my motor gave out on the last flight.
scottc yes you could but the true glider fan will use a folding prop. I you are into gliders then you will only us the motor to get height. Then you will use thermals to stay there. To do this you will need a folding prop. I hope this helps. You and all ways fit a folding prop later.
Scottc..... I fly my gliders off the field with motor and folding props, and find there is a HUGE difference with having the prop folded and having it windmilling (unfolded) up the front. If you could stop the prop from spinning then I would imagine that the drag would be less than when windmilling, but then you may have the problem of stopping the prop in the right position so you don't break every time you come in for a landing ...? This is a very heavy model and is definatley NOT a thermaling glider, good on the slope on a windy day or good for blasting around the sky down at the club.
a used a 3300mah 4s nanotec, a 100a esc and a KD36-74-09XL 1900kv Brushless Inrunner with a 8x6 prop. in my first flight, a friend trows my plane up, i fly to a safe hight so i could trim my plane. and then, in straight line, i pull my throttle to 75%, my wings braking off my plane and the rest of my plane crasht about 600 m furter in the field. de lipo explode and my plane burns all out. you will now how much MPH, i don't now but i ensure you, it was really fast at 75% throttle :-)
I have removed the wing pin that holds the front of the wing to the fuselage, I inserted a ply cross brace inside the fuselage and put two screws through the wing into the ply brace, still have the wings attached.... :-)
I got mine and it's smaller than the box a bit so I put epoxy all over the joiner and pushed it into the box put epoxy on root rib. Joined wings wiped off excess epoxy and set wings. Hopefully the epoxy will strengthen the spruce wood good enough.
(((((((((((( HEY GUYS))))))))))) I DONT HAVE THIS YET BUT THINKING of buying it and i hear it has trouble with the wing joiner , why not use aluminum u can get from home depo OR LOWS OR ANY HARDWEAR STORE AND IF its to small just use a filler it should be fine ,or even fiber glass the coat the joiner also .
*Roger123 I will try different ones and see. I might put an OSD to track the speed of the two setups then I will post them. You are probably right aboutMaximum performance with the higher Kv motors and smaller props.
Considers that the layers of fiber are the same throughout the body, this translates into a tail heavy without being necessary. With motor / esc combo of 100 grams and 190 grams battery, i had to add 150 (6oz) grams of lead in the nose under the engine for CG. Keep in mind that each gram for your rudder system represents x3 in the nose to balance it. Good luck.
thankyou for the replyes i have to wait till it comes to my door before i by the moter for it. but the problem i thing is to find a moter without or with a gearbox thats generete 700-800 watts in 28 mm size
You don't have to follow the recommended Kv. I really don't understand why HK recommended a Kv for this plane. If you use 3300Kv you will be spinning a TINY NON-FOLDING prop of around 4.5" x 4.5". Alternatively, use a much lower Kv (1000 or less) and spin a large folder, or use a gearbox to step-down the high Kv motor.
Straightup: Bad advice - this plane is supposed to be flown at very high speeds, which means you have to use either a folder or a small non-folding prop to reduce it's drag. Usually a very precisely balanced spinner and a small, highly pitched propeller is used. Believe me, hotliners are hell fast and they will not fly with a slowly spinning prop because the wing loading is pretty high and they need plenty of speed to fly.
Not necessarily, Manqirdas. If one uses a big folding prop (high pitch preconditioned) on a direct drive with low KV, he just has to use a high(er) voltage. (Its not very common, but possible).
Btw: "real" hotliners use setups like this: 16x16 folding prop on a 5:1-6:1 gear ratio with 3000-5000KV Inrunners on 4-5s Lipos and performance about 3-6kW!... but thats the professional league... like this baby (1000€ the plane alone):
Wished I had one :-)
I also would agree with you Straight Up when using 5S-6S 11x8 12x9 folder prop and 1400-1600watts motor it will be ffaaassssttt !!! Maybe I would cut the nose back further and build a larger fire wall to except a larger 37 mm diam. motor and larger spinner to match, The main problem is the box is too big to ship to the U.S. or I would of bought one already.:( :( :(
Sorry guys, i really thought i was right, some of my friends have hotliners and they fly them with small props and reach speeds well over 100 mph, so i guess it's possible to fly with both small and large propellers. Didn't mean to offend anyone!
2w20 typhoon 3700kv engine, 80amp turnigy progamable, 4 cell 30c discharge at least 2200mah, 4.75X4.75 prop.... hook up your amp/watt tester and tune your throttle response to pull 800WATTS, only pulling round 65amps... it works well...its not rocket science boys...
Small prop High Kv motor = Pylon racer.
Big, highly pitched folding prop Gear box or Low Kv motor = Hotliner.
Pylon racers are flown with throttle control, and you fly around with the stick all the way up.
Hotliners are flown with throttle on a switch, in burts of insane power, followed by a fast glide.
Pylon racers are like formula 1 cars, hotliners are like top fuel dragsters that glide...
Looking at the speedy, it aint a pylon racer, a 4" prop doing a squillion RPM is not going to make this go fast as it wont be able to make enough thrust to overcome the drag of the thing.
And to the original question -
Yup it is dangerous, depending on voltage and prop obviously. Forget about the HK plastic folding props, theyre rubbish for anything but stirring paint.
Folding props come in two main flavours - S6P2 and S8P3, which relates to the size of the hub (the part of the prop that bolts too the spinner) S6P2 - 6mm wide, 2mm hole.
S6P2 props obviously have a lower rpm rating than S8P3 props. Throwing blades is dangerous *-)
RPM limits for Aeronauts are here www.link and graupner make the best folders for this sort of application, ignoring the big dollar composite props which cost more than this plane!.
S6P2 props come in smaller sizes, below 10"ish, S8P3 props start at 8"
It is however possible to buy small ~5" carbon folders that can handle 60,000 rpm, but your looking at $ www.link as above, its a cheap entry level hotliner, and not a pylon racer *-)
Trying to set it up as one would be like putting a superbike engine into a truck, its not going to do much but make noise.
Does anyone at HK know what the airfoil is? We glider fliers like to know.
Great news that HK is starting to sell molded gliders. There are a few 3 meter Chinese gliders that it would be nice to see them distribute.
Flyfly claims to be a manufacturer maybe HK find the real manufacturer of this hotliner.
I believe that many people want to know the airfoil before buying planes. So HK should definefitely add this to the specifications. This is a KEY information. I think my guess is right so RG14 airfoil in this case.
Is this normal for hot liners not to have a rudder? You would think it would be safer to have a backup of steering this thing if something should happen to your ailerons. I know landing this thing in a crosswind would be nothing with it's slippery body but nice to have a backup.
rudder wont work on that glider. I have robbe easy it has rudder but it wont work in slow speeds and final approach because of long fuselage. you cant lose ailerons in same time one aileron can roll your plane widely and you can land safely. It happens a lot with my easy glider. If you use metal gear servos on ailerons you cant lose any too
Most hotliners don't have rudders because they aren't needed as much at high speed.
I used to fly full-size sailplanes, and at normal cruising speed a lot of rudder was needed in turns because of the adverse yaw created by those long wings, but as I flew faster (110 knots on one occasion,) the controls barely needed to be touched to turn the sailplane, so there was much less adverse yaw to deal with, and thus little to no rudder input. My 2M Valenta Terminator DS glider didn't have a rudder either. It's the glider version of their Weasel F5B electric plane.
Straight up: I know, but it seems that the lower the kv, the lower the watts. Like the 2836 motors here on HK* the 1000 kv motor swings an 11'' prop at about 250-270 watts, while the 2350 kv does at least 400, maybe 500 but with an 5 or 6'' prop.
apolmo, I think you would find that it wouldn't be worth the effort. The RG-14 airfoil is quite fast. The plane is a hotliner. It will do fine without a rudder. Plenty of model gliders fly fine using the "yank and bank" technique. This isn't a thermal glider that flies slow and needs a lot of adverse yaw correction while turning tightly in thermals. Fly it the way it was intended and you'll see for yourself.
Sloperdude I can do the bank and pull with the AXN. I can see your point about the speed and not needing to adjust the yaw.
I saw someone using this motor with a 6x5 prop HK2836 EDF Outrunner 3800kv. It should work with this plane and I have two of those here I can transplant.
Straight Up: That's what so many glider pilots have lots of different sailplanes for: different conditions and flying styles. I have one F3F glider (Alliaj) for racing and sport slope flying, one 3M F5J electric thermal glider (Hybrid) for thermaling and light sloping, one 3M F3B glider (Addiction) for sloping and thermaling on windier days, one 2.5M FPV pusher E-glider (Aero Master,) one 2M aerobatic glider (Voltij,)one 1.5M moldie (Mini Nyx,) one electric pattern plane (Alliance,) one electric 3D plane (Typhoon,) one float plane (Ready 2-E,) one canard (Mystere 3000,) etc. No one plane can do it all, but each one does it's own task well.
It looks similar to the Siren, which is a 1.8m CF fuse and balsa sheathed foam wing.
No rudder on the Siren either.
Just play around with the aileron differential to adjust the adverse/proverse yaw.
I'd go with a lower kv motor and larger prop after having a HK folding prop self destruct with a high kv motor...
Something in the 1500-2200 range should be fine. Select a prop to put the current where you want it. My observation is that folding props tend to draw about half the current of a fixed prop with the same specs.
I'm running a 14x10 folder (from HK) with a 830kv motor and only drawing about 35-38 amps - I forget the exact number, but it's under 40.
Speaking of motors, I'd look for one with an internal impeller (cooling fan) if your planning to use an inrunner. Not a lot airflow in that fuse.
Gee thanks Sloperdude - I had no idea why I had so many planes. I thought I just had a bad case of OCD!
Look, FFS, anyone not wanting to add a rudder, don't do it - I'm not forcing you to add one, and it will fly fine without it. You won't be able to do stall turns or spins. Anyone wanting to add a rudder, go for it - it WILL work, but isn't a necessity. Can everyone live with this now?????
Straight up: A stall turn is fully possible without a rudder. Just turn and pull too hard, and the wing will stall in the turn. Usually a stall turn results in a flick just beacause of the fact that no rudder was used, ie uncoordinated turn. This flick is what's (wrongly) called a "tip stall".
A hammerhead turn, however, is more difficult without rudder. In a hammerhead turn, the wing never stalls as it does not produce mentionable lift (angle of attack is close to 0).
Straight up: You are correct, never flown F3A, but I do fly full size aerobatics. A stall turn is, like I told you, a stall in a turn, and will produce a nice flick in most aircrafts if not flown coordinated. The flick is an incipient spin, and will imidiately develop to a full spin if not recovered, and to recover you will need a rudder. A hammerhead turn is what I guess you mean, where you fly vertical until almost full stop, then kick full rudder and opposite aileron and turn 180° to end in a dive. In this manouver, a stall never occurs, as the wings never exceed the critical angle of attack, hence it cannot be rightly named a stall turn. (A stall is where the wings angle of attack is grater than the said wings critical angle of attack, and you get a separation of the airflow from the wing) My comment stands.
Well Beaufighter, given F3A calls for both Stall Turns and Hammerhead Turns, you better inform the FAI that their definitions are wrong. I acknowledge that a stall only occurs at a certain angle of attack, and that this is not exceeded in a Hammerhead or what the FAI term "Stall Turn". Now, earlier in this I said "FFS, if you don't want to install a rudder, don't". Google FFS and then see if you can understand how I can't make you install a rudder. However, some people might elect to. Do they need to check with you on exact definitions before they do this? FFS!!!!
While you're at it, Google "Stall Turn" and check Google Images. It seems a LOT of people agree with me. Doesn't make me right, but a manoeuvre is generally called by its common name, whether it is the technically correct name or not.
I couldn't wait so I pulled the trigger and got me one. It arrived today! I love it and already got all the stuff I need to build it. Amazingly it only took 6 days with EMS. I would like to make the wings a 2 piece but might be too weak with all those G's it's going to pull *)
I really am thinking about adding a rudder after seeing Flitetest and how Josh snapped his wing on a rudderless Fox. On Youtube there are a few guys that landed after losing a wing but their rudder and skill saved their plane.
*Craig You're right about the stab I am going to Dremel it round and put white tape over it. Mostly the kit is really well made. Lose the spruce wood hardware, score the elevator hinge(increase throw, had to use 3m foam tape to seat wing in saddle good,fitted a Turnigy 35-42 1100Kv motor (front of can is angular so it fits. Really happy with the kit.
Was going to maiden today but the rain started here.
Recomended..........i have been using the following set up for 3years.
2w20 typhoon, try extremerc (australia) or rc-warbirds (china). ((((((servos.....well i will have to see when it arrives)))))
the rest purchase from Hk. 80amp turnigy programable esc, 4cell 2200-2650 40c battery, 4.75X4.475 tsg prop, (though a petrol prop would be stronger), set your engine (prog card..) timming on high, start mode on soft, the rest dont touch. you need a WATT meter. choose your throttle on controler set it high for about 50. hook up electrics and pull at least 50-60amps, looking at 700-850watts... i set mine for 65amps, but this is only used on a burst of 5seconds.... dont forget you need heaps of engine cool so dont be scared to drill out extra holes for direct air engine intake.....I run this on a me163 komet and i'm pulling 200klm on a flat run and up near 250kp/h on a down and 15-20 knot wind.. trust this will be great... the 2w20 typhoon engine is round $65 AU.
PS:::::my plane got shipped out on the 21/3/2011 cant wait.
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just got mine today in sydney ,happy with it but note ... the cabin is about 3 inchs wide you could fit a tennis ball in it , the wing joiner is made of wood about 6mm x 8mm, Ive worked out how to make a carbon joiner one using 3 carbon rods together. the wood one would fail for sure.finish is nice I think this is only a nice warm liner , get a dago red if you want a fast looking and fast hotliner. The canopy is flimsy and made of thin fiberglass.it will need firming up and a better method of holding it in place even if its just a thicker carbon rod. Glad I got it though..
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Unboxing my GL and mostly it looks really good. You cannot beat the price even with shipping. There are some minor defects like a nail pressed in slightly on the fuselage and the plywood motor mount not flush with the FG firewall(it has been epoxied so any ideas on this or should I just squeeze them together and hope for the best or try removing it ). They maybe should let us glue the firewall ourselves. The elevator needs to be trimmed close to the hinge to allow more down throw. The horizontal stabilizer will have to be squared off and glued parallel to wings. I think that's it will update during the build.
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around nose of plane and various others along fuse. Flying: Pretty darn good. With my power setup launching was not a problem as 1/3 throttle had about 1 to 1 thrust ratio a gentle toss and the plane had instant speed and control. Climb rate "INSANE". Gliding, 10mm up 8mm down aileron was perfect, not too much for full power but still plenty for landing, good smooth response for gliding. Elevator 7mm up and down was plenty for everything very smooth and accurate at all speeds. Glide ratio for this size wing with this weight was very good. Penetration, has plenty but thought it would have a little bit more. Stall test was supprising, plane got VERY SLOW into breeze nose up attitude before it stalled, 1 wing will drop very quick and plane will roll over inverted and dive straight down then a LITTLE elevator will recover it in about 40 feet flying in the opposite direction (not bad really) big loops, rolls etc are smooth,accurate, and a breeze. the plane can be turned quiet tight while gliding if you have to with not really any adverse results. Landing, lands like any other well behaved glider. I have seen vids of people trying to land these real hot for some reason bouncing them back into flight again etc. just do a stall test in the air and you will see slow you can get them. I have 2mm flaperon dialed into mine for landing and it is both a breeze and pleasure to land.
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Kit de très très mauvaise qualité. Fuyez ! ! !
Il faut tout refaire. Les ailerons, le couple moteur, l'empennage, la fixation des ailes, les couvercles des servos, la verrière, il y a des trous dans le fuselage............! ! !
Kit very very bad quality. flee ! ! !
Everything must be redone. Aileron, engine torque, the tail, the wing attachment, the lids of servos, the canopy, there are holes in the fuselage............! ! !