Hobby King 120A Sensored/Sensorless Car ESC (1:8/1:5)
HobbyKing 120A Sensored/Sensorless Car ESC (1:8/1:5) with built in cooling fan.
Features: Enhanced throttle response, excellent acceleration, enhanced braking and throttle linearity Programmable with a HKSS programming card. Automatically detects the number of cells within the battery pack. Multiple protection features, Low voltage cut-off protection, over-heat protection, throttle signal loss protection and motor jammed protection Compatible with Hobbking, NOVAK, LRP and ORION Sensored brushless motor
Specification: Cont./Burst Current: 120A/760A Resistance: 0.0003 ohm Suitable Car: 1/5 on-road and 1/8 off-road cars / trucks Suitable Brushless Motor: 7T On road / Off road Battery: 5-10 cells Ni-xx (NiMH / NiCd) 2-4 cells Li-Po BEC Output: 6V/3A of switch mode built-in BEC Motor Type: Sensorless and Sensored brushless motor Dimension: 55x60x40mm Weight: 150g
Its because i alredy have the turnigy trackstar sct 3750kv, and i wass runing with a kh 150a, and after 2 minuts runing the esc stoped work. I have just a orange light in the esc. The motor is a 2 poles, i just neet know if this esc run motors with 2 poles
temperature at or above 95°**C. after just 2 minuts how can get this temperature? i tried put the programing card but de programing card dont turn on
i'm not happy with the car ESCs from Hobbiking, i'm realy thinking in buing a hobbywing Xerun
this is the second car esc from hk then i'm had problem
Yes this esc can handle a 2 pole motor. I run this esc with tekin 4.5 550 2 pole motor with no problems. I know the 150 amp says it will not work with 4 pole motors but not sure about this one. Never ran a 4 pole with it.
It has one member here that used in engines 2 and 4 poles and not had problems. Buy the programming card to set the esc to the motor, and the motor is sensored, test the cable with or without him. To further configure the brake is only with the programming card even ...
having a problem. running Turnigy TrackStar 1/8th Sensored Brushless Motor 2350KV with 4 cell. Worked great for 2 minutes. Then as soon as i'd hit full throttle it would die. Turn it off and on, same thing. Also no beeps are coming from ESC. can't seem to enter set up anymore.
using this esc with turnigy 2650kv motor in my duratrax warhead.it works great,too much power.lol anyway is the bec in the esc any good,should I use it?right now im using a reciver pack.also why doesnt the esc come with a bec extension wire?it cant be used without it.
I think I have to reprogram it but when I put in a new battery the motor goes good and then slows down and the orange led os blinking on the 120 amp 1/8th esc. I have it paired with a 5.5t ezrun motor. It might have something to do with the low voltage cutoff I do remember hitting tje set button again maybe it screwed something up. Wanted to know if anyone else had the same probpem.
I have tested and is working with both 4Pole and 2pole motors,
the only issue i have experienced was some cogging on sensored mode with my 540 size 2Pole motors, but as described on the features :
"Compatible with Hobbking, NOVAK, LRP and ORION Sensored brushless motor".
On the 2350KV 4-Pole Trackstar I tried down to like 14T-15T and still had same startup cogging in Sensored mode. It'd cog even with the whole Slash 4x4 suspended in the air on 2S/3S/4S. Maybe I just have an unlucky ESC. I'll put this ESC on the side until I find sensorless use for it in the future. Currently have two X-Car 120A, W-SC8 120A, Xerun 150 as, and a RIP MMP.
My cogs like crazy in sensor mode with the 2350kv Trackstar on every setting. Ninjatech's ESC is special I guess. Using my 2-pole 4450kv Duratrax, it works sensored but it's not linear or very responsive off the line. The esc doesn't give the motor enough juice in sensor mode but just enough to turn the 2 pole motor without cog. Once it gets going it'll surge in transition into sensorless mode causing tire spin. If i let off throttle and coast ans then get back on itl'll take about 2 seconds again to apply full throttle. Makes sense why the 2350kv won't go and simply cogs though. Sensor mode is pretty poor overall for this ESC.
Hi I think part of the problem is this. Esc is more for use on smaller vehicles such as 1/10 not needing as much torque or overall amps or current to get it going try a different esc which has capacitor an make sure you aren't trying to run a 4 pole motor with a 2 pole esc.
Hi Jeffrey, the 2 pole duratrax 4450kv sensored motor I'm running that has sensored to sensorless delay/lag is only 8.5T 36mm x 52mm can equivalent to a 540 motor running on a 2WD slash with 3.8" G-loc tires on pavement geared 23/86. When I disconnect the sensor cable, the issue dissapears. The same can be said with the 2350kv 4-pole Trackstar on a 4WD Slash LCG. Both of which are 1:10 of course.
To me, it seems like its a problem with the ESC while in sensor mode only. It works perfectly fine in sensorless mode though. I don't have any issues using the X-Car 120A(for DTX 4450kv 2 pole on 3S) and the Hobbywing 150A Xerun (for 2350KV 4 Pole on 4S).
Hey Binh, I believe every Hobbyking ESC is special, as mate Jeffrey has the only HK150A ESC that is working with a 4Pole motor, while all the other guys tried to use other than 2Pole motors finally burned it!
As i have already mentioned, mine is working with both 2Pole and 4Pole motors in sensorless mode.
As sensored it is working flawlessly with my 4Pole motor, but is not working with my 2Pole motors, they are cogging and shaking like crazy on start.
Thanks Ninjatech. I've figured the same thing. My HK150A is special is 'special' indeed. I've put it aside and will definitely have a new home for it soon but definitely a sensorless home. As for my sensored 2350kv Trackstar, it's running super smooth with my new Xerun 150a on 4S.
Well... I have this with the 2650 KV Trackstar and on 3s it won´*t work fine...ESC shuts down in cause of overheating!
I use 3s on 20C.
Ca anybody tell me what i have to do to run it good or maybe on 4s? I have the program card and all is set to normal....
Ok,Now I´*ve done it with 48 T on spur gear and 18 T as Pinion. Its better now,but after 20 Min,same procedure. And how can i run it with 4s?
Maybe this motor as a 6-Pole is not a good combination to this? 48/18 is much too slow....*-)
I just Hooked this esc up, After Calibrating, it doesn't go at full power. I tried it with the reversing calibration and man does it have a lot of power, only problem is it's going in reverse. Change it back the other way, and it is slow in Forward and reverse. ANY Suggestions?
Try to reverse the throttle channel on your transmitter and re-calibrate the throttle end points.
If this doesn't work, probably the motor is mounted in the oposite direction and you must program the reverse power to "full" via programming card.
I have this 120A ESC paired with a Turnigy 2650kv Motor (18T Pinion) on an E-Maxx. It will bash around lightly in the yard just fine but as soon as I hit wide open throttle it will overheat and go into "reduced power". Has this happened to anyone else? I did calibrate the throttle as per the manual and I do not have the programming card yet (still in the mail)
Thanks for any help on this!!
I'm building a Savage Flux HP from parts because I already have a good radio and wanted to save money on radio and much too expensive servo, motor and ESC that come in RTR with that car. I've ordered this ESC and now I'm setting it up and connecting all the wires.
It has a switch (without on/off markings!), there is a plug for motor fan with red and black wires and there is 3 wire plug (black, red, white) White is a signal wire but I'm not sure if black and red wires provide power from BEC or not? I will use separate BEC for receiver and steering servo so I'm not sure if I should disconnect red and black wires or not?
why do you need a separate BEC with this esc already has it built in , just plug the 3 wire plug to your receiver , plug your steering servo to receiver ,set throttle range like instructions say , and go play .....
I'll use separate BEC because I have BlueBird 660DMG servo which can draw more than 3A of current. Other reason is that I have this other BEC just sitting arround collecting dust so why not use it. Hope it will work well because many people started complaining that it cogs. I'll try to review it tomorrow after some test runs.
this seems as good as the 150a esc that we all love .. it has 35v caps on so it could possibly do 6s if you keep the motor under 120a its exactly the same as the 150a in size even cables and quality ...i programmed it with my 150a card and that works just fine ,seems less juddery than 150a at low throttle ,excellent!!!...have added a video of me programming it with the card on youtube under teamblackcountry rc :)
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2.The Specification of ESC:
2.1 Output : Cont.Current 120A, Burst Current 760A
2.2 Resistance : 0.0003ohm
2.3 Suitable Car : 1/8 on-road and off-road cars/trucks for general raca or RTR application
2.4 Suitable Brushless Motor : ≥8T(3665)
2.5 Battery Cell : 5-18 Cell Ni-xx(NiMH/NiCd) or 2-6 Cell Lipo
2.6 BEC Output : 6V/3A
2.7 Motor Type : Sensorless and sensored Brushless Motor
2.8 Dimension : 55*60*40mm(L*W*H)
2.9 Weight : 150g
this is what it can handle;).
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All works well apart from it not having a very smooth start, it really does a "bang" everytime you start from a stop or low speed. Will have to wait till the programme card is available to see if the starting can be made better.
Why werent the program cards available when these first came on the site?
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Este variador é excelente pela relação preço qualidade, comprei-o e foi montado no Traxxas E-maxx a 4s, não tem qualquer sinal de aquecimento, e responde muito bem. Para mim não quero outro. Aconselho a todos.
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Looked fairly solid out of the box, huge in size, but blew as soon as I connected a battery, top and bottom boards are connected by pins and one of the fets on the top board shorted out due to solder debris inside the case contacting the bottom circuit board and up she went!