Thanks to IS40:31 and to Amys3 for your responses. They serve to inspire me to go ahead with the conversion. A little more on the model might be helpful for further comment: I forgot to mention that the engine range started at .020 with .049 being the max. the wing area is about 54 sq.in. without discounting the engine nacelle area. I won't know the gross weight until the model is finished and outfitted with Rx, batt and servos. And I would agree that the weight is probably a good deal more that the 20" glider. Being of a warbird design, the wing is meant for higher speed. The nacelles for the motors are about 40 mm in diameter and 50mm deep to the mount. I will look into the park 250 series though.
I want to adapt an old Guillows B25 Mitchell kit 26½*" wingspan to an RC electric. The original kit was designed as a U-control for an .049 Glow. As I build it, I want to modify it for RC and electric. It requires two motors. Has anyone ever tried it? Am I wasting my time? Or can it be done?
wasting your time? absolutely not! building/designing experience will help. as far as these motors for the build, I would probably stay away from them and look at something like the park 250 series. the 049 spun at around 18000 rpm with a 6x4 prop, this motor comes close, but I've gotten a few 'lemons'.
i do not own the plane you have but if i just consider the wingspann of that model, then seems to be a bit to big for this motor.
you might be etter off to use a slightly larger motor with more thrust.
I use this motor on a 20" glider and a 5x5 prop. the flight weight of the plane is 90-100g dependig which battery i use, and this motor is just right for this small one.
but your weight is probably higher..
I am using 1 in the HK Mini Stick 23" wingspan weighing 5 oz ready to fly with 300mAh 2 cell and 5X4.5 prop and 3 servos. Flies great.
Your B25 would have 2 motors so depending on weight I would expect it to fly fine.
You wont have the drag and weight of the control lines to pull around for a start.
I used to fly a small 14inch control liner on a single 049 with a 6X3 3 blade and that screamed round.
This motor may provide about 120g thrust with 5x3 and 2S. I advise you to calibrate your ESC. Usually it is made in such a way:
1. Power on your TX and move throttle stick of the transmitter to MAX
2. Power on your plane (RX, ESC)
3. After a couple of beeps (depends on ESC) move throttle stick down. You'll here "acknowledgment" beeps.
4. Try the thrust
That's odd, anyway, I tested a 1811-1500kv against a park 250, the 1811 ran with a 370mAh nano-tech, a 6x3 prop 1.1a * 8v and 91g thrust, 5x5 prop 1.4a * 7.8v and 128g thrust. your 2000kv motor should yield higher results.
I want to run this motor but am limited to a 3x3 prop on the model (pylon mount clearance issues).
I'm happy to re-wind the motor if I have to, I have 3s and 2s batteries.
Can anyone tell me if I can run this motor with a decent amount (120grams ) of static thrust with the 3x3 prop and some working battery/re-winding config?
i just bought 2 of these motors, but they dont turn. i used 2 diffrent esc one hk 15 amp and one flighttech 18 amp. 7.4v. ofcourse i try another biggere hk motor and it works fine on both esc but not these 2 new. am i doing something wrong, please help.
Sorry for your troubles, I bought two of these and one was bad out of the box so I feel your pain. The only thing that comes to mind is esc timing, don't know if that would keep them from turning though. I'm still using the good one but i re-ordered PRODUCT ID: T1811-1500 and both were good. I am using turnigy 10a and hk 8a esc's.
Thanks. I thought of pliers - a bit crude but it would do the trick. But I also had same problem as guy below with the motor mount - and pliers won't help there! It's possibly the same hex size as the prop saver screws.
The supplied prop saver is held on by 2 screws that need a hex key - can someone tell me what size please?? It's certainly less than 1.5mm (the smallest in my set). Seems a bit stupid that I need to buy a new hex key just to fit it on! Many others just need a small screwdriver.
Ron -uk give it a while and you will have every tool you need i was the same way when i started i had every tool known to man to work on my car or truck but nothing small enough to fit this hobby that was about five years ago now i only have to buy a tool when i break one and if i looked real hard i bet i got another somewhere
The screw on the motor mount is 1mm, is is the prop saver screws... The grub screw that holds the bell to the shaft is .5 mm.. The Pliers should be used only as an emergency "in the field" solution.. the small hex keys are available at your local hardware store for less than $1.00
as long as you keep it below 4amps on a 3s I think you should be fine. maybe try an apc 6x4e or a gws 5043 prop. whatever you decide, you should use a watt meter to keep it under 4amps (approx 40watts)or at least make sure the motor doesnt get hot if you dont have a watt meter.
This motor was used on my mini swift after wrecking it with stock motor. I decided to mount the motor externally and what a difference. I flew this with a 2s 370mah nanotech and a 5030 prop. It flew ok but then stepped up to a 3s 480mah nanotech with a gws 5047 prop. What a world of difference. It is an absolute rocket. I have flown it about 6 times with this setup with no problems. esc is a 8-10 amp.I opened the throttle after launch and pulled straight up and it disappeared in the sky after 5 seconds. It will fly across a football field in about 7 seconds.I had to manage the throttle to a lower setting to slow down my neck spinning. I made slow and really large loops and without any hesitation....unbelieveable. If HK made this plane with this setup they would sell a million of them. Still having more fun with my damaged mini-swift with this setup as opposed to my brand new one that I take with me at the same time with the stock setup.
Hi guys, I bought 5 of these motors for a quad I am building cause I had a feeling one would be bad but I ended up with two that had a broken winding lead. So my question in what configuration is this motor wound? Delta or Wye? I have some 36ga magnet wire I will be using so any other suggestions would be nice. I will reward the BEST answer after a few days pass so thank you for your help.
Here's a heads-up for you all and this comes from someone whose used this motor since 2008 and purchased a half dozen of them: The rear bearing goes out on ALL three of the last ones I've purchased! Once that happens, it throws the timing of an ESC (HK, Turnigy, Castle, SS, etc.) off and in turn burns out the FETS, destroying ESC's like crazy and causing you to feed these pigs MORE money. You running this with the 6x3 or 5x4 GWS props? Check your rear bearing and initial rotation startup. If there is drag, you've seized the back bearing, toss it.
WE paid SPIT, we got SPIT ON. Personally, I've had enough of Chinese **** in the USA and feeding these people every 1-2 months for replacements.
Well, my worst experience with motors has been with the small brushed motors in the ultra micro planes from the US company Parkzone. I bought them from the Australian distributor, and when they failed, bought replacements direct from the US, which also failed in short order.
On the other hand, I have two micro helis and one micro quad from HK, as well as another micro quad from banggood, all of them bristling with similar brushed motors, and not one has failed despite heavy use.
Of course, they
You have to drill a small hole in the center of the mounting holes for the motor shaft to seat into. This allows the shaft to spin freely with no binding. The end of the shaft sticks out just barely so that it will rub on any flat surface that the motor is mounted to. I drilled a 3/32" hole center of my mounting holes and I have no binding and my bearings are fine. These are the things we must deal with to save a few bucks. It is not the best engineering design but it can work.
buying stuff like this is 100000x better than paying for overpriced american stuff that is still sneakily made in china. fyi - everything is made in china. dont let the ad men con you with "assembled in usa" or if 1 screw is american they still call it made in america. at least with hk, you dont have to line the pockets of fat greedy american middlemen that add zero value to a product.
Yea you are pretty much right sfactor1. USA just doesn't manufacture things like this anymore. Mostly because of workers unions and high taxes on business. It is far cheaper to outsource the manufacturing to China with its cheap labor force, low tax rate on business, and price of materials lower than in the US. I for one am not complaining about it and I will continue to buy from HK as long as they deliver decent products at great prices. I can fix minor defects that can and sometimes do occur. Not a problem.
Currently i am using 2s battery with a 6 amp turning plush esc and 1000mah 25c battery with a 7 x 3.5 prop
I want to use the above congif with a 3s battery so which esc should i use?? 6 amp will do?? or have to use a bigger esc.... Suggestions will be really helpful. Thanks
turning plush can be used with 3s not no guarantee from hobbyking. And i have also read that people use this motor with 3s power but not sure if i should use a 7 x 3.5 prop. because every were i read people use smaller prop on 3s
they dont hate 3s. they only hate the abusive end user that thinks its ok to use the same prop for 3s and 2s. a 7x3.5 is for 2s. use a 6 or even 5 inch prop. if you use a watt meter, you can intelligently experiment with different setups
What size are the tiny, black screws that secure the motor to the mount, and the one that's on the shaft (what's this one for anyway, the motor seems to be better balanced without it)? I can't seem to find screwdrivers small enough.
Not sure as I've not taken it appart yet. But possibly ot locks the bell on the shaft. It may also have threadlock so it's holding even if you remove it ... but I would not fly without it nor full trottle with a prop .... you could injure yourself or someone else.
The one on the bell is to hold the bell to the shaft. Don't leave home without it :). The motor should turn fine with it in and no prop and no prop saver on. If not then something's off balance. I'm not a motor expert, but maybe the bell could be off? If you have a prop saver on and it's vibrating that could be the source of the vibration. If you've got vibration with a prop on ... try without the prop first. Process of elimination. Oh, and if you haven't already... get a decent prop bala
10 windings is not divisible by 3, and being a 3-phase motor that would be close to impossible. I have one that I received some 4 months ago and it has 9 windings.
Schorhr: you got lucky to be rewarded even if your answer is wrong.
Yep, I am sorry. I counted the "first" winding, starting under the cable, twice. My bad. It was not on purpose and these things happen. One of my questions got answered wrong as well before, and it's annoying, as it involves measurements which I had to change in my CAD design.
Thank you Muchalucha :-) Now I can construct my 3D quadrocopter frame.
*Louigi600: Other then I asked for the motor dimensions and not for it's thrust, I am working on a quadrocopter, and according to tests with the right propeller the thrust is 100/120, even up to 185g, I don't see why it could not be used on heavier/larger models? Either way, the quad will weigh under 130g, and four motors should lift it easily even on 2s *-)
Sorry for that ...
the HK specs are a little over rated: I don't get the thrust they say also the smaller the craft the bigger thrust/weight ratio is required to fly. Maybe 30% is sufficient for ordinary outdoor planes but in a single indoor basketball court I've yet to see a 100g plane that can fly in that space with 30g thrust.
My assumtions were for single motor indoor planes. Sorry to bother you.
I use a 30A HK cheap ESC to do all my bench testing and it manages even smaller motors but pulsates the high spinning ones if they have no load. You can probabbly use your 20A ESC on this motor but what's the point in having such a small and light motor if you then waste the effort by using a hevier ESC then required ?
You can use any ESC ranged 6A > the only drawback using larger ESC is only the weight of it, I can bet the ESC weight more then the motor :), turnigy Plush 6A or the 8A Super Simple are a great combination for this motor
i see, I have the "H-KING 10A Fixed Wing Brushless Speed Controller" it seem that it dont hv instructions how to do this on the manual or i probably still dont understand some RC electronic terms, is there a stanndard way to find out if my ESC does have such function. the motor keeps on running even after i turned off the TX , on the automatic motor shut-off when out of range, i stil havent tested it since i have not yet tested the plane outside.
This is something you want to do on the ESC not the moptor.
Generally if a RX system gets out of range all channels start to do random stuff: some ESC dedect this and automatically cyt off power. The setvos generally do not do this so most likly your plane will crash anyway.
Yes but still it's something you want to ask about in the ESC discussion not on the motor duscussion as it's something that ESC can sometimes do but not something the motor itself does.
Also flying your plain within transmitter range is more desirable then crashing because you fley out of range *-D
ok, i already had the though on that ... just not sure wether it an esc or motor question at the beginning. Im have never flown an RC plane before that why i'm concern the automatic shut-off, the park near our place where i'm planning a test flight looks pretty small, the plane might overshoot the open area, it will be a hard retrrieval or total lost if the plane crash or if i lost control over the forested area.
Mgaz, Normally, this is done by the receiver and or speed control, so it will depend on what equipment you are using. For example, my $pektrum has a "fail safe." When the receiver stops sending a signal, it drives the throttle channel to a pre-set position. In my case, zero throttle. New pilots and small parks are really not a very good idea. Always fly in an area that you think will be way too big, in zero wind. Good luck!
Pour la perte de signal de l'emetteur : - programmer une coupure des gaz sur la fonction "fail-safe" de l'emetteur Pour couper la voie des gaz, avion au sol : - affecter un switch de lemetteur à une fonction ON-Off voie des gaz.
yes actually i've tested the motor-tx-rx set-up again although not in flight. and yes, the motor do stop automatically when you turn-off the TX, although not in an instant* It takes about about 3-4 seconds before the motor stops after switching off the TX. with regards to the range test ... i haven't done that yet, still cant find a good place or at least an RC hospitable area to fly though. thanks guys. and "willy" ... what is that language? ... french?
Yes you can , i use these Motors on a Nano Quadcopter with only 6A ESCs and thats plenty enough for thoise Motors. Neither Motor nor ESCs get hot while using 1000mAh 2S Nano Tech LiPos on the setup. So 10A are even better than the 6A which i had choosen for weightreduction and Measurements on my Nano Frame If you like this INfo please let me get rewarded.. thank you
I have an old gas powered line control model of a spitfire and im planning to convert it to electric RC, it has a 3inch four blade prop. still looking for a motor that will fit and replace the .049 engine that it has. thanks guys for the info, i'll give credit due after i get the motor and tested it.
I use this together with the Plus 10A ESC on my flydumini quad - great! The 6A is also sufficient, if you dont need high ESC power and/or 3s supply.
2 out of 10 my not work, so order some more to be sure to get a working one... Still Ok for the price.
I bought some 5030 GWS triblade props(on RCfunlab) to go this motor, but I can't fit it right. Where could I find some props adaptator, or do I need to change the props ?
This is for a quadcopter.
Has anyone bought any of these recently? The last two that I bought had **** bearings (very noisy and the vibration was horrible). One had a damaged winding so it went straight in the bin anyway :-(
So what's the current quality of these?
some 3 weeks ago I gor one of tehse and one 16G version. Both work fine while a C10 had very noisy bearing and nasty vibration.
But the thing I find makes more impact on the vibrations are the cheap props that all need balancing !
I use them on my quad , 8-10 amp esc 5x3x3 blades 1000mah 25c 3s lipo , get slightly warm but no warmer than the 2812 on my stryker, had around 100 cycles now using 3 cell with no issues other than some slight balancing before use.
Hi, just be sure to stay below 5.5 amps - then you should be ok. If you are using a 7.4v battery a 5x3 3 blade may be ok. Do you have a watt meter? In general, 3 bladed props are not as efficient. (Something to do with turbulence of each blade interfering with each other?)
I bought 5 and 4 of them felt good. Altho one was ****, you could see the bell wasn't mounted level so it made a real racket when it spun. Unfortunately, these were not good enough to use on my funsized quad so I'm giving them to the local RC club.
As long as you are not going full throttle all the time, it can handle the GWS7035 fine. BUT I like with gws 5030
4 comments. Reply..
50 thumbs up!
I was surprised with quality and performance of this tiny motor. I use it on mini 3D plane Mini Sultimate (48cm wingspan), with rtf weight ~70g it have crazy performance! I don't use stock motor mount and prop saver plus i shorten wires, because of this i get incredible 9.2g weight! I found that best prop for this motor is GWS 5x3, great 3D performance and long flying time. Also one thing you must appreciate is strenght of this motor, i was unpatient to wait for gym flying, so i tested small plane in living room. It was quite fun, but few times plane fall on engine and impact was pretty strong, but nothing happened, it run perfect just like first time! For such price it is must have item! I order two more. Here is blog about this engine and my new plane. http://www.myhobbycity.com/blog.php?b=40
4 comments. Reply..
36 thumbs up!
What a powerful little motor! Using a 7.4V Lipo pack, the performance is amazing compared to brushed motors of similar (and greater!) weight:
GWS 5030 - 3.0A, 4.375 oz thrust GWS 5043 - 3.5A, 4.0 oz thrust GWS 4540 - 3.0A, 3.25 oz thrust
The 5030 prop clearly is the winner for these props, generating the most thrust using the fewest amps. And for the price, it can't be beat! Great little motor for small planes in the 4 to 7 ounce range.
3 comments. Reply..
30 thumbs up!
Very nice and small motor. The weight including mount is 11.6 gramm Prop GWS 7x3.5 DD 3,7A on 2s Kokam 360mAh Günther Prop 125x110 3,4A on 2s Kokam 360mAh
Even with the GWS 7x3.5 the motor doesn’t heat up. Really nice product!
No comments. Reply..
27 thumbs up!
Prop GWS 7x3,5, acc Fullriver 250mAh 9100 rpm and 4,2 A thrust ~140gram.
Prop Graupner folding CAMprop 4,7x2,4 same bat ???rpm 2,2 A ~80 grams thrust.