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Should the brass ends be soldered on before the blue cover is pressed on or is the blue cover placed on the wire before the brass connector is soldered on and then pulled onto the connectors???
They have to be soldered on before. Take a shrp look to the picture. There you can see the plugs and their shape. It shows that the plugs are to be put in the plastic housings from behind, so from cable side. The angular part us on the lower side of the plug. That comes into housing first. Hope that helps.
the picture is correct...order EC connectors in all the sizes you can and convert they are low impendacne and can crry high currents efficiently! I race with them in my electric buggy 4 cell 150 amp esc and 2650kv motor and they are awesome and very durable!
In the picture, the males use the thin metal spring expansion type where other pictures show the thick metal micro cut (Polymax?) type. Sorry, best I can describe it. Is the picture correct? Thanks.
Thanks wellmanite, I was on Progressiverc site and their EC5 connectors use the other type (for $7). Hking product PC-EC5 shows the other type as well so I was wondering if something was being, you know.....for $1.
Guys i"m buying the Turnigy nano-tech 6000mah 2S 25~50C for the Revolt 30 so what kind of connecters i need for the Imax B6 Battery Charger and for Revolt 30 Thanks
I use these on all my boats and cars,good for 120amps constant.Just buy about 10 of these and put them on everything,then you will not have any adapters.the large side goes on the ESC and Charger with male connectors.The small side goes to all your batts with female connectors.You will need a large soldering gun to get them soldered on correctly,I use a stained glass soldering iron 200amps,there are available online for about 25 to 30 bucks.You just solder the connectors on first then they push in from the reverse side,you will hear them snap when you have them in all the way.I use them from 2s 4000mah 40c all the way up to my 5s 4000mah 45c batteries.Hope the Helps.JK.
Hi jaka 27, I use them for many of my models mainly to standardize plug types along with XT- 60s.
EC5's are rated for up to 120 amps of continuous load, they are perfect for large 1/4 scale electrics and 700-800 size electric helis, maybe not necessary for a pylon racer, but doable.
I have a question . i know these connectors re very good . pass high voltage are very high quality easy to connect and disconnect and don't loose quality after 300 times of connecting and disconnecting like the dean's do. but as i see they have one downside that if i want to dis connect them from the wire there is no way i can dis weld them or take out the 5.5 mm bullet connector from the plastic housing it clicked in to . am i right ? that the only way to re use them is to cut the wires and re connect the wires that is not so simple to re connect 8 awg cables like 14 awg
Cutting the wire and attaching new wire is the best thing to do, but you can pound the connectors back out and resolder them. If you hammer them out they don't stay back in very well.
I don't have a problem of keeping them in because i put 20mm and 25mm heatsrink on the connector to make it less bend, but i broke the connector casing last time i used a hammer .
I occasionally remove the EC5 connectors off the plastic case. I put the EC5 plastic case on top of a vice with the wires sticking down, so that the edges of the plastic case sits on the vice, but with enough room to allow the connectors to be punched down/out with an appropriately sized punch and a rubber/plastic mallet. To prevent damage to the connectors, I insert a small piece of rolled up paper towel between the punch and the connector. This method works well up to an extent. Every time I punch out the connectors, a thin ring of blue plastic remains around the connector (which is easily removed), but after several cycles of punching out and reinserting connectors into blue plastic case, the connectors will be looser within the plastic case.
I have pushed EC5 barrels out of the plastic housing many times with an arbor press a drift punch. This method works great and does not appear to damage the plastic housing - it's easy to replace a connector and snap the new one in.
I would not take advice from this guy "John" as these connectors aren't technically "re-usable". As others have said, it can be done, most of us have done it a few times, but once you do it, it's never the same. Think of it as a girl, she's only Virgin once...
I only speak from personal experience. Perhaps I have been consistently lucky in not having issues "recycling" EC3 or EC5 connectors. Please, facilitate a "link" to a creditable and reputable source explaining why EC3 and EC5 connectors should not be "recycled". Thanks.
Well, since hobbyking does not allow links, what you are asking is impossible unless I do a youtube video of it. As everyone agrees (pretty much everyone) you can re-use/recycle the connectors. But once you use it one time, the blue plastic part that you have to "click" the bullet connector into will lock into place. If you force the gold bullet connector backwards out of the blue piece, it removes and/or takes a "ring" of plastic off of the connector, or at least will take off the "tooth" that bites and holds the connector in place. These connectors require a decent amount of force to connect, that's why they have such a high current rating. Therefore anything that prevents the bullets from firmly locking into place is dangerous, especially involving lipos. Now like I said before, once is okay, and twice is usually fine too, but you just have to make sure that the bullets are not easily pushed backwards out of the blue plastic, and check to see how much material you are removing by forcing the connector back out. Because when you plug it in, you don't want the bullets coming out of the back.
I also forgot to mention, on a completely unrelated post, I absolutely love these connectors, I just got my order that I put in a few weeks ago for 20 sets, and I also ordered a bag of the "8mm Gold Connectors" wow they are huge, and I honestly could not plug them in to connect them without putting wires in the back to grab on to. I still think these EC5 replica plugs are the best overall plug for R/C, by far.
Very good connector!
Have been using these in my T-Rex 700E 12s setup since 2010 for around 400 3D flights and they are still ok. Big spark when connecting ESC but no problem so far!!
(My Deans lasted for less than 50 flights...)
You can't get any smaller w/ a 5mm connector. The ec3 will be smaller, but won't pass as high of a current. T-connectors (deans) will be much smaller, but will pass even less current. it all depends on your application. 10th buggy, 2wd sc, 4wd buggy, etc. will e fine with deans. 4wd sc, or 3s ebug will push a deans style plug & needs an ec3. Ebug 4s & up really needs the ec5.
If saving space is an issue just used the bullets and not the housing, just make sure they are oriented as if they were going to be in the housing (ex: female bullets on battery side i believe) so that charging is still possible. Just a little heat shrink and some common sense or color coded wires and your good to go.
I just use bullets now, mostly 4mm. Female on and male on - . That way 2 , 3, and 4 cell batteries and be connected in series very easily. - plugs into to make series battery . 4mm are half the cost of these., and quite often, you can get them even cheaper if you hunt around..... $1-$2/10 As far as being compact, 5.5mm are shorter then 4mm. 22mm male and female connected as apposed to 26.4mm for the 4mm.
I purchased ECS 5mm Connectors in regular hooby shop while waiting for my shipment from HK. I should of waited because I payed much much more at regular hobby shop. anyway to your question. It's very easy to install and reliable. all you need is soldering kit and heat shrinks.
Those EC5 are better than any other connector for high Amps and Watts apllications. On a 450 they are overkill on that size T-deans on 3.5mm plug can do the job. Anything else from 600 to 700 class => EC5!!
i found instead of using a soldering iron i use a blow torch and its much easier but remember to use a soldering helping hand and remember to focus all the heat on the connector with wire already in it then add solder hope this helps everyone
I have been using these for over a yr. Never had one go bad. I have about 20 of them, they are reusable. Deans don't hold up to the high amps I was constantly replacing those.
Not sure what you are asking for fit or for performance but you should be able to use 10 or 12 awg wire.
Friend of mine has a 3D plane that uses that same size battery and his batteries come with 12 gauge and he using EC5 connectors. They are 5mm bullets so plenty big.
Hope that answered your question. Like it if it did please. :)
It's taking 8AWG from turnigy 5ah 40C 6S pack easy. It's the best price to qualit connector ever :)
I'm using it in trex 550E flying hard 3D, it isn't even getting warm.
I have soldered these connectors to two Zippy Compact 5000Mah 6S Lipos. The AW8 wire in most occasions was a little too thick to fit the 5mm connector at once when pre soldering the wires first. I then needed to file them a little slimmer and rounder at the edges to go in completely.
Also it is quite difficult to solder these connectors clean without having any solder getting on the outside. It needs some practice as you also want to have plenty of solder inside to completely fill the connector and wire. In some cases it did get on the outside causing the connector to not fit the plastic housing anymore. Again I needed to file the exess solder off to make it fit. Once fitted in the plastic housing I find it quite hard to get the connectors out again if needed for any reason.
For the rest they are very good and their price is super.!
Cheers, JeffBr.
I soldered these to 8awg for my batteries and I get arching across the connectors long after they are connected, as if there is an intermittent connection. I noticed a review stating small plug to battery, large plug to ESC... is there an electrical reason or can these be connected any which way? I like the idea but several of the plastic casings cracked, this is not cool.
I agree that there is not any electrical reasoning behind this. But I would put the smaller plug to BEC and larger plugs to batt. The reasoning is batt is going to have a larger current flow than the BEC. But like everyone else I don't think it matters.
This can be a confusing subject since there are multiple male and female parts here. There is a male and female housing (blue plastic part) and a male and female bullet (metal part). Generally the male plastic housing is coupled with the female bullet, likewise the female housing is coupled with the male bullet. Generally the battery gets the male housing with female bullet, and the charger/esc connection would get the female housing with male bullet. You can wire it up any way you want, but
Used it in my 1:1 car with Turnigy 4S 5000mAh to start it when it's battery discharged. Don't know about really amperage, but li-po was rather warm and EC-5 was cold.
I have trex 700e.I use only EC5 connectors.The ESC is Castle PHOENIX ICE HV 120A.I have flight more then 300 times.It works perfect soo far.I thing that is a very good choice at very good price.
The EC5 connector is the way to go on the larger lipo packs. I use the EC5 on my 6S packs and the EC3 on my smaller stuff. super easy to connect, no sparking like the Deans. GREAT prices on Hobby King.
Yes, it can handle 120 Amps.
I use it on a Traxxas E-Revo brushless at Zippy 6S 5000mAh 40cThe Castle-Neu motor is rated at 120Amp and this connectors have no problem with it.
Best connector available for high current applications. I use these connectors on my Monster Mamba ESC 2200KV system and they work a treat. I run up to 6S lipo and these connectors are easy to solder and very secure. Use this connector instead of standard bullet connectors.
very good plugs. They're different from Dean's , since does not make any failed contact and does not became dark after some plugs ! they're also easy to sold on the wires.
the best way to know when it back in stock. put this item in your wish list and select the option (alert me when it restock) HobbyKing send you an email when it back in stock
they are same as e-flite/losi ec5 connectors, great connector, I use it for everything, including brushless motors (by cutting the connectors up in two's). They are not easy to take apart again, a dedicated tool for that would be nice. With wooden edges around the connectors' rear you can hammer the bullets out again, the blue casing can be reused at least 3 times. Like other bullets they are easy to solder wires onto.
It would be nice if Hk restocked these in DE warehouse - and ec2 connectors
hi i uses these connectors if the wire is a bit small you can still salter it in ok .good connectors for the money can handle lots of power running thought them .
I used this connector on my LiPo that has 8 AWG wire. It was not so easy to tin because the wire is too thick, but after a little work I could weld, it was very good and it has not released the solder.
Abs
inner diameter of bullet is 5,0mm, fits best on awg8-awg12, awg14 works, but awg12 would be much better. Fit female onto male bullet before soldering male, to avoid solder onto springy part. Covering up the recess is advised, if too much solder comes ahead. They are good for 120 amp, and work fine with 150a too. My favourite connector so far until a shorter 6.0mm 'EC6 arrives *). This EC5 connector can be found elsewhere with a slotted male spring, unfortunately HK doesn't carry these.
i can not get the wires to stay in the gold conectors, does anybody kno a trick? i'm using an electrical lead free solder. am i maybe heating it up too much for too long?
First, tin the wire you want to stick in the connector (by putting a little solder on the iron, then hold the iron on the tip of the wire for a little while until the wire get hot enough so when you push solder onto the wire, it melts right into the wire, instead of blobbing on the surface). Then stick your soldering iron into the connectors hole where the wire goes into and slowly push a strip of solder into the tip of the iron, creating a ***l of solder within the hole, when there is enough solder in there, quickly grab the wire (from your esc, bat etc) and carefully and precisley stick it as far into the ***l of solder as you can. Remember, put heat shrink on before you do this, because that part I never remember :D
What gauge wire? How many watts is your soldering iron? When the solder sets do your wires pop straight out? Fill the gold connectors about half to 2/3rds full of solder, tin your wires, place tinned wire on target and heat until it melts, wire should slide into hole and set.
"tin" the wire with solder first. very important. fill up the connector halfway with solder. put the wire in place and heat both at the same time. You will need a very hot iron, at least 50W
well, all professionnal knows this:Don't use the lead free solder, it's ****. an exampl: you have to hot very much in order to do the job but the small pads on eletronic board can handle the heat and you unglue it with the heat.
second point: you have to heat the wire AND the connector, not only the connector.
I use these connectors on all my batteries now. I had trouble initially getting the battery leads hot enough (batteries are 6S1P 5000maH) to bind to the solder. If the leads are getting extremely hot while your trying to get them to melt, you soldering iron may be too weak to handle the size, you may need a more powerful iron that can heat the solder quickly without passing too much heat down the lead to the batteries (which is bad)
fix your connextor to some holding device with minimun contact to the connector (so you dont lose energy when heating the connector) hold solder wire against the bottom of the connector. apply solder greece/fat. heat the outside of the connector until it melts the lead wire. Apply as much solder as nessesary(1/4 to 1/2 full). Insert the pre leaded, pre fatted/greaced wire end into the connector. Remove heat while keeping the cable still. let cool down....
Does your solder have flux content as well? I find a lot of people suggest sticking the solder iron in the little hole on the side to heat up the connector. The bullets on these EC5's are quite big and dissipate heat so I usually quickly drop solder into the bullets by heating up the solder with my iron. I then quickly dunk the iron in the connector until the solder is again molten, and then stick the wire in there, while simultaneously pulling the iron out.
I know a lot of people don't like
you are not getting the connectors hot enough i use electrical solder it has flux in it thesolder has to be flowing in the connector before you put it in are you tinning the wires first you must put solder on wire if this does not work try another solder good luck
Use a silver (higher temp required) or Rosin core solder. It's important to pre-tin the the wires. Use liquid Solder flux, dip the stripped wire in it for a short time to allow it to soak in, then melt solder into the end. Next put a little flux in the connector pin and then use you iron point to melt solder into the connector until about 1/2 full. With the iron still in the pin place the pre-tinned wire at the top of the pin, touching the pin and the wire. once both are hot slowly put the wir
gotta hold in place for a long time as they cool they are big and take a lot of heat to get good solder point
clamp wire and bullet so they cant move til cold
I "pre-solder" the wires and connectors and heat them up. It can sometimes be hard to really get the connectors hot enough so I'd warm the gold connectors more. If they're to cold the wire often comes loose. Using a tool or something to hold the connector is great as is keeping the components steady whilst the solder is cooling.
I would reccommend a 60/40 rosin core solder and fill pin cavity to 1/2 full. Tin the end of you wires and then reheat the gold pin and stick wire in melted solder and apply a little heat to melt tinning on wire. Cool with wet paper towel.
i just use a liquid flux with the flux that is already in the wire hold the iron on with the wire in the hole till you see all the salter turn into a liquid thing hold wire in and blow it a few times befor leting it go ,iv had no problem with them .
I know when I solder my EC3's (similar just smaller) I hold the brass connector gently in a pair of needle nose vice grip plyers (just enough pressure to hold it, not deform it) with the CUP or part that the wire goes into (it has a hole on the side) upward. I use a torch to quickly heat the brass till I can ***l some solder in the bottom of the cup. I then take my wire with 1/8 of an inch of the insulation stripped off and while the solder is still liquid push the wire in and hold it there fo
Be sure you use good solder with a harsh core and like 20 lead at least. it will flow much better. Don't get it too hot indeed! 40watts is more then enough. Try to make a wooden board with a few selfmade holes in it so that the connector fits in there for clean and fast working. good luck!
tin the wire first and make sure you get good solder coverage, then put solder into the cup and kind of mix it like a little bowl until it is fully liquified. While holding the iron (finer tip is best for this) in the solder in the connector keeping it melted bring the wire in and hold it on the iron as well until the solder on the wire melts. then slowly push teh wire in pulling the iron out until the wire is all the way in and the iron is out. Hold the wire as still as you can until the sol
lead free solder is most likely your problem. required more heat to melt and also needs a very hot iron.... but you then risk melting plug. Go and get some solder with lead and resin core in it. should fix your problem.
Reply You do not need a power supply if you are using at the airfield. This charger has power leads to connect directly to a 12 volt battery. I have gone to good will and purchased a 7amp power supply for a computer. I bought the right power plug at Radio Shack. [from:Greenfuelboy] Reply I recommend: www.link [from:] Reply You can take standart 12V power supply. But buy 5F fnd more. Because If You have big battery Your power adap
Great Connectors. Easier to solder than XT60 (Can´t melt, because you solder it outside of the plastic hull). But a little bit harder to Connect/Disconnect
leaded (50/50 or 60/40), rosin core solder works better for private hobby use. you could sand the bullet inside, or use small amount of flux liquid, that helps. Use more heat (like 330 C)and hold wire until it stiffens.
EC3 are the standard plugs for like the horizon hobbies Corsair or Texan. the EC3 are for most 3 cell lipos and smaller 4 cell lipos. The EC3 has a 3mm bullet and the EC5 are quite large and have a 5mm bullet which can handle up to 10aug wire.
i have just recieved 7 batteries using loose 5mm connectors, and i want the safety that comes with the housing (less chance of shorting out the battery) however the wires are a ridiculess 8awg, so my 4mm HXT's are no go..
you'll have to solder the again, but when they move in their housings there is no problem. only when they come out, and that means the housing is damaged
I would say about 10awg i had trouble getting the leads into the connector. had my local hobbyshop do it for me instead.If you use 8awg or bigger it looks like you would have to trim some of wire strands off to fit them in.
I have personally used these plugs they are of good quality and are bigger than the other connectors. They use more material in these connectors than others so hence there are less per pack.
^^^^^^ You'd find them anywhere that sells E flite gear. but i doubt that posting any info / links here would be considered fair. Google is your friend.
They are two different sizes so they are not compatible with each other. I think the EC3's are more geared for 10th scale. If you are using them for an onroad or offroad. I use EC5's for everything 10thh scale or 8th scale. I hope this helps.
Not realy as the 3mm will be too loose in the 5mm socket and the reverse wont fit at all.
Just replace the 3mm EC3's with EC5's and this will give you a connection that can carry a greater load with less loss allbeit tiny.Hope this helps.
It depends on maximum current you wish to earn through your connection. EC3 is fine for about30-40 Amps but if you need more then use EC5 which could pass through more then 100 Amps.
Best regards,
Sergei.
the sizes of them connectors:
EC2 = 2.0 mm
EC3 = 3.5 mm
EC5 = 5.0 mm
theres is one seller on fleabay selling the SLOTTED MALE type of this ec5 cased connector.
How to deal with the ec3 connectors, the ec2 and ec5 are basically the same ordeal. search 'ec3 connector' on utube for how-tos. and search net for fmt-model of f00911 to find the slotted male version for these connectors.
Hope to see a EC6 soon.
The fastest way to solder any bullet is with a hobby torch. Turns bullet into melting pot, fine solder will melt instantly.......then just dip in the wire and give a sec to cool.....a butane hobby torch is about $5 at any hardware store.......makes the job a SNAP.
Melt some solder inside the bullet plugs . . . keep it fluid (solder) and then insert your wire. You're done! Don't forget, do this with the plugs out of the plastic housing or you're going to melt it (plastic).
You either need a very large, high-wattage soldering iron, or as others have suggested, use a small butane gas torch. Either way, tin your wire, then add some solder to the connector (not too much or it will overflow when you insert the wire). With the solder in the connector still molten, insert your tinned wire and let cool.
drill a hole in a piece of wood and insert the connector with the side down you dont want to solder.
then heat up the connector and fill up with solder,
during heating insert the cable and wait until the cable is also hot **> finished.
The fastest way to solder any bullet is with a hobby torch. Turns bullet into melting pot, fine solder will melt instantly.......then just dip in the wire and give a sec to cool.....a butane hobby torch is about $5 at any hardware store.......makes the job a SNAP.
Adding to the good tips above with using a
butane torch and the male bullets in the female connector.
I always pre-tin the lead/wire end before inserting it into the bullet previously filled with tin.
But more important, while the bullet`s still hot press it in the connector with a small flat screw or hex driver and listen for a audiable snap.
Indicating that the bullet is locked in.
thunderchicken do you have a link or pic ? do you press the bullets in from the wire side ? havent tried that..
Customer Reviews
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nioa2
264 likes
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20 thumbs up!
I really like these connectors. They are NOT 4mm connectors as stated, they are 5mm. I use them for batteries that are larger than 3300mAh 3S, and I think that they can easily carry 120plus amps. The cost can't be beat for the quality, and the quality is just as good as the HH guys. They are very easy to solder, and the barrels "SNAP" into place perfectly (the barrel is inserted from the grip side). All other plus points mentioned, I agree with.
2 comments. Reply..
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insang
205 likes
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4 thumbs up!
These are really good connectors, better than the flightmax/HXT red 4mm connectors. *shorter so easier to work with in tight space, *need a small screw driver to snap the tips in the connectors (very secure) *BIG takes 8awg easy *Nice solid connections, not too hard, not too soft
For those who are wondering, smaller size is the Battery, and larger is the ESC, Flat sided takes the red wire.
Running these on my 600ESP and 700LE Electric conversion. Was using Deans. These are much easier to solder and mount. They are easy to connect and disconnect. I'll never use Deans types again!
At 5mm they can take all the amps my birds can throw at them and not even break a sweat!
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