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StarMax F-16 90mm EDF
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Hawk128 View Drop Down
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Posts: 2 		  Quote Hawk128 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: StarMax F-16 90mm EDF
    Posted: 02/Jun/2012 at 2:12pm
Hi All,

I've just come back from flying my F-16 with Its new power plant. I went for the Extreme_RC 90mm ALLOY CS12 BLADE 8-10s COMBO with the HET 700-68-1125 on 10S with a couple of old Zippy 3000mA 45C Batteries.

WOW the performance is great and that sound with the CS 12 Blade rotor is fantastic. I dont think I will every go back to a 5 blade rotor again. I'm now looking at converting my other Aircraft to have that great WHOOSH sound.

Thanks Extreme_RC.

regards to all,

Hawk124.
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eliheli View Drop Down
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Posts: 3 		  Quote eliheli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16/Jun/2011 at 3:34pm
hi guys;me again.
 
have to admit that i'm a very dissapointed about this HK package.
i Own this bird already a few weeks but stil could fly whit itConfused.
 
i'm not a newby regarding airplanes and own a lot of them,already bought many @ HK most of times needed to do some minor adjustments but this time i realise the package isnt worth the money.
 
i followed this treath whit al lot of interest and listend very carefully to the experiance of others.
-strenghten al rods
-widning cheater holes
-elevator fix
-gear fix
-cg adjustment
-prop balancing
-change shroud to the changesun one
-change shroud to the wemotec one.
 
al this work for nothing when fitting the original (afther balancing prop and spinner and making shure the fan fitted whitout pressing the shroud to avoid deforming) i realised that this would last long.
so i ordered te changesun one this on lasted about 20 sec at 1/4 throttle when i was braking it in bad luck i thought so i didnt give up and ordered a wemotec midi pro fan whitch didnt need balancing was already done in the factory the shroud looked the same as the starmax one but the blades fitted perfect(what i could say from the starmax one sanding,balancing) also the mount adapter was drilled in the center now.
 
but stil al lot of un balance once mounted i could understand why but now afther further investigation i saw that the saft of the motor isnt straight!
 
for me very bad point for this bird !
 
why selling a pnp package if the most important parts of the package are unusable!
and you need to de so much adjustment before the bird flys.
 
also afther sales sucks i dont think i do the effort to ask for a new motor just order one here in europe @rctechnic.eu i'm thinking about the typhoon 600 dont know if someone have experiance whit this one?
 
this wil be my last attempt in case this doesnt work i sell the bird to someone who already have one .
 
so maby soon a complete modifyd airframe whit working air retracts for sale.
 
zero point this time HKThumbs Down
 
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4stripes View Drop Down
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Posts: 154 		  Quote 4stripes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14/May/2011 at 9:23pm
I guess your setup may be different with the air retracts. Mine are the original V2 servo driven mechanical type. 
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eliheli View Drop Down
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Posts: 3 		  Quote eliheli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14/May/2011 at 3:03pm
thnx for this reply,that expoi layer is a good tip but still cant figure out how to make the wheel steer,because of the movement of the front wheel i cant mount linkages,they suplied a steel cable i supose to make a push pul linkage in the extended position ,but once the wheel retracts those cables are in the way.?Confused
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4stripes View Drop Down
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Posts: 154 		  Quote 4stripes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13/May/2011 at 7:26pm
The servo is mounted to the front leg which must be secured to have little or no movement. The set screws were loose on mine giving me similar problems to you. Tighten the set screws on the nose gear. You may have to remove the retract to get at the set screw holding the wire into the retract (if that one is loose too).
Another suggestion, move the nose wheel steering linkage to the innermost hole on the servo arm. This model has very sensitive steering and will tip on it's wingtips if you make rapid steering corrections. Another point, add some plastic rub strips or a layer of 5 minute epoxy on all areas that may contact the runway. It will save you many repairs later. The intake lower lip should also be coated with epoxy in case the nose gear collapses (it will).
Best of luck!
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eliheli View Drop Down
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Posts: 3 		  Quote eliheli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13/May/2011 at 3:37pm
hi guys,
 
as you can see this is my first post but follow this topic whit a lot interest,
 
sorry for the poor english i try my best,i'm bought also a f16edf whit retracts ,they work pretty wel but how do you get the front wheel steerable whit the position of that arf mounted servo?as i can see on the film you have put an additional servo directly on the front leg.
 
it would be a great help if someone can send me a pic how he managed to make the front wheel steerable in stock configuration,because of the movement of the leg i can not sort it out.
 
hope someone sucseeded and kan show me how to do.
 
thnx. 
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Stular View Drop Down
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Posts: 6 		  Quote Stular Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30/Apr/2011 at 2:00am
Well I give up Cry

Doors were working, but were too unreliable, so I decided to just glue them closed and make a slot for landing gear to open.
Video of working doors:



Note, that I'm using separate channels for landing gear and doors. Also on this video I have servo slow function only in one direction. I later used some rubber to seal all slots around the doors, but now it is all removed Cry
Without a healthy fear of the ground
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RobbieDJ View Drop Down
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Posts: 8 		  Quote RobbieDJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/Apr/2011 at 10:37am
Thanks Kaldek. I have a set of thoes for my FlyCat but haven't used them yet. Embarrassed
Fast is a blast!!
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Kaldek View Drop Down
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Posts: 54 		  Quote Kaldek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/Apr/2011 at 2:37pm
OK all my parts have arrived and the bird is ready to fly.  Let's hope that KD36 motor doesn't burn up!  I'll endeavour actually video the flight this time.
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Kaldek View Drop Down
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Posts: 54 		  Quote Kaldek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/Apr/2011 at 2:36pm
Originally posted by RobbieDJ

Well I ve been hacking at this awhile now, almost there BUT can't get the servos to stop  stalling (humming). whenn I dial them down to where they stop the gear won' lock down or tuck up all the way. Angry


Yep, this is a common problem.  Don't worry if it won't tuck up all the way, what you need to focus on is making sure they lock when lowered.  Because your gear isn't lowered for very long - i.e. only when taking off or landing -  let the servos stall a little when in the gear locked position.  This will ensure the best possible gear lock for landings, otherwise your gear can collapse, particularly the nose gear.

I say "possible" because the strut pins still bend on landing.  I have mine modified with the HK digital servoless retracts, 5.56mm (7/32") piano wire for strut pins (the struts have been drilled out to 7/32").  This solution is strong.


Edited by Kaldek - 07/Apr/2011 at 2:38pm
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