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HobbyKing 4WD Big Monster 1/5th Scale Truck (ARR)

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Blind Vision View Drop Down
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  Quote Blind Vision Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/Aug/2011 at 5:28am
Remember it does not come in that paint job, -
Dynamite Shikoku, then it's pasta and ketchup for the rest of the month
Doing some guerilla gardening... take a peek; http://www.facebook.com/groups/416558261701047/ lokal bustop infront of my flat
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  Quote Dynamite Shikoku Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/Aug/2011 at 5:56am
completely fine with that, my staple diet is Ramen and home style burgers.

I gotta find a hearse body shell big enough to compliment my Savage XL Ecto Ghostbusters body.
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  Quote Chrissy47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/Aug/2011 at 9:50pm
Progress so far.

I stripped the truck back to its basic assemblies. This only took about 2 hours. All the screws bite real tight into the plastic parts and would not come loose under normal use. The tools provided are ok, however I suggest a decent set of hex drivers to save your fingers some pain.

This is what it came with



I have now re-assembled the chassis with the two diff housings and 4WD belt drive system. This took about 3 hours as I decided to do a bit of tidying up that I felt would make the belt system run in a lot quicker. From new the whole drive system is very stiff. It is actually quite difficult to push the truck along with the brake off.

1. The slot cut part way into the chassis plate to clear the main drive gear on the rear diff is only about 1mm wider than the main gear. I decided to get the Dremel onto it and make sure the slot has a good 2mm clearance either side. This is not a necessary change, but I figured while it was apart I may as well do it.



2. From the factory they use heavy weight blue grease on the belt and associated guides. I prefer to use medium weight silicon grease, so I cleaned off most of the original grease and re-greased using far less silicon grease. Again, probably not necessary as I'm sure with a easy run in with the original grease the belt and grease will "loosen up" fine. Note the belt and plastic guides do touch slightly but again this will simply wear in.

3. The rear diff has a plastic cover that pushes over the diff and is held in place by a cross member and the rear suspension frame. The plastic in this is not real uniform in thickness on the inside and does rub against one side of the diff. I again got the Dremel and some wet and dry and thinned the side wall plastic so it no longer rubbed. Another step that probably isn't necessary as during a run in of the car the plastic that is touching will again simply wear back.



4. In front of the rear diff is the belt tensioner. It consists of a split casing (plastic) with three sealed bearings pressed onto a shaft. The outer surface of the three bearings is what pushes down on the belt to provide final tension. The three bearings on mine were not pressed to a point where they were centered on the belt. I simply used a suitable sized socket slid over the shaft and lined up with the outer race and gently pressed the bearings to the middle of the shaft in my trusty vice.



The whole drive system is now a lot smoother with far less binding.



While checking the action of the diffs, I note that from the factory the rear hubs are running a lot of negative camber. Infact with no load on the suspension so it is at it's furthest travel, the Universal Joints are just at the point where they are binding. I dialed the camber back so it's only a degree or two and it's nice and smooth now.

Mark

Edited by Chrissy47 - 15/Aug/2011 at 7:51pm
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  Quote Chrissy47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/Aug/2011 at 10:01pm
Today I decided to bind another 3 chan RX to my TX and set up the servo tray and steering module, while it was out of the car. This was quite straight forward. There sure is some grunt from the dual steering servo setup. No chatter at all from the servos either and they are nice and smooth. Now that that's out of the way I can start re-assembling the last of it, staring with the front end and servo tray. I decided to fit a 5000mAh RX pack while I was at it. This should provide several hours use before needing re-charging. This will require a bit of surgery as the new pack is obviously a lot bigger than the standard 2000mAh pack.



One other minor thing I found was the front control arms are narrower than the holding points on the diff cage. There is 4mm or so of "float". This probably isn't an issue but I decided to trial it with the gaps taken up with some heatshrink. By setting the lower arm at it's front most position and the upper arm at it's rearmost, the dogbone stays paralell with the arms during suspension travel. This should mean no, or reduced bump steer. I will try a few different things and once happy will eventually make up some proper spacers.



Mark

Edited by Chrissy47 - 11/Aug/2011 at 8:54pm
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  Quote Dynamite Shikoku Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/Aug/2011 at 8:00am
would you happen to know the strength of each those steering servo's? They look like all metal with heatsinks so i would imagine high voltage. if they are 20kg+ servos, SEXY!
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Owll56 View Drop Down
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  Quote Owll56 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/Aug/2011 at 9:17am
Try using rubber "O" rings as spacers, they absorb some shock and keep dirt out of shaft to stop execess wear.
DOH! Gravity
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  Quote Chrissy47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/Aug/2011 at 9:43am
Thanks Owll, that sounds like a brilliant idea, I will have to have a scrounge and see what O-rings I can come up with. I may even be able to scrounge some at work.

Dynamite, I havn't checked the stall torque on the servos, but they appear to be up around the 30Kg mark when compared to a 33Kg Chris has for her Baja.

Mark
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  Quote Chrissy47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13/Aug/2011 at 12:19pm
Back into it.

Discovered what is probably the first major mistake by Rovan. While their assembly diagram and the way they assemble the two long plastic belt guides from the factory is wrong, it will work, but it is not how it's meant to be. Good news is the fix involves nothoing more than flipping the lower guide channel so the channel is between the metal chasis plate and the lower guide.

The way Rovan assembles it means the toothed face of the belt clashes with itself and may cause excessive drag in the driveline.

I tried several times to upload the FG manual under the files tab on the product page but it keeps failing. I may try again, but for now lets see if this works.

FG_Monster_Truck.pdf

Mark

Edited by Chrissy47 - 15/Aug/2011 at 8:02pm
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  Quote Chrissy47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20/Aug/2011 at 10:03pm
hehehehe... Well it's all run in and was working great till I had a big flip. It ended up the right way. Took off again and the rear diff went bang followed shortly after by the front diff. All stripped down reveals that I have taken out all four planetary gears. By the looks of the material and the way it stripped, I would guess they are a fairly soft casting. Time for a set of hardened FG originals.

On the grass this thing makes that much power it drifts everywhere. LOL

Awesome fun!

Mark

Edited by Chrissy47 - 20/Aug/2011 at 10:43pm
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  Quote maxdamage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26/Aug/2011 at 7:04am
Bleh, Ordered my new diff gears and shock shaft but shaft is back-ordered. No one in USA that I can find has it ready to go :( May look into LST shocks...
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