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4 Blade rotor head for V2 or newer HK Heli. Quality machined components ensure tight fitting shafts and bearings with little to no slop for accurate flight characteristics. Blade grips take standard 325mm blades. Dont be mistake by the price, the quality of this rotor head is excellent!
Limited stock production due to a small assembly team. Preorder to avoid dissapointment.
I have recieved my 4blades head and ok,
Pitch 8
Motor speed curve max 50%
All stick movment very light, slowly and soft, if not the movment are too much heavy.
I have mounted a tarot zyx in beginer mode and have done looping, inverted flight and lateral loopings
Near I'll send a video.
I've seen many forums saying that max pitch for this set up should be about 7. Does that seem to be appropriate?
Also how set up does this head come from the package?
Is there an exploded view of this head. Not sure on mounting the drive link to the mast. Saw a video that had an extra part that I didn't see in my package
Thanks
I found my main shaft to be more than 5mm and it will not fit in my 5mm bearings. Maybe if I chill the shaft and heat the bearings first ... but I changed the shaft.
has anybody tried using blades shorter than 325mm? seems to me 275mm blades might be better to maintain the headspeed as well as the tail rpm as in a single-rotor 3S lipo setup.
let me expound on what i'm trying to say. with a standard 450-size 2-blade setup, we typically target headspeeds no less than 3000rpm /-200. staying true to those rpm ranges with a 4-blade 325mm setup increases lift (as well as the load on the power system). one way to offset this is to use a smaller pinion, motor with lower kv, battery lower voltage (A123 instead of lipo), etc. but that would also mean reducing the tail rpm which will result in loss of tail authority. to maintain tail authority (and possibly lift) at standard rpms, does it make better sense to use shorter blades (ie 275mm)?
using a bigger tail blade is one of the possible solution to have enough tail control. The other version is to change the tail pinion as well. It's up to you. I fly with 4-blade Heli since 5 years and I have done both versions *-) BTW - with 4 blades normally you fly with a headspped of aprox 1800 to max 2200rpm.
If you do not use an electronic FBL stabilization where stiff blades are recommended and you do not want to do 3d I would suggest something like the CopterX CX450BA-20-04 blades.
Their width is less than the standard blades, i.e. you can use them with about 2000rpm. Because they are rather flexible you can achieve a stable flight without electronic stabilization.
The Hobbyking GT003 or GT004 blades may also be a solution but I do not have any experience with them.
No it doesn't,it is a direct replacement for the standard flybar head.Best though to look at some of the forums,there are plenty about which show how best to set this type of head up.
Have flown with out fbl gyro and fly's very different. It will strain your batteries and overheat a 30amp esc and 3 cell battery combination. Look to Youtube for some advice, Blade phasing video's, four blade scale Trex-450 and pitch / throttle curves.
Hi D8687 thanks for your reply however I do not understand. I have a align setup on my helli i have a 780 gyro , 45a esc and a 2200 4s 35-70c lipo. what i need to know is will this setup work with this rotor or do i need to buy a fbl gyro?
So, I actually bought the 4-head for my HK450GT a while ago. But when I put it on using all the info that I could read to get it right the first time, I still could not get it up in the air. I see someone here mentioned that you don't need a 4-blade tail... how's that possible? If someone could explain to me how to get a higher head speed so that I don't need a 4-blade tail I'd appreciate it.
values **increases the engine and reduces curve values **in the pitch curve. with this you increase the speed of the two rotors. With increasing main rotor speed you have to reduce the step to achieve the same lift. This in turn will cause the tail rotor to perform more efficiently and you will not need to put a four-blade head on the tail.
Yes, I use ZYX with this rotor head in a hughes 500e fuselage.
Pitch curve: -3º,1º,4º,7º,10º
Throttle curve: 77,77,85pcnt,90pcnt,92
You can see my video here: www.link
I got this & installed it on my HK450 & have a few problems:
1. There was a lot of slop in the radius arm & part that grips the shaft. This play resulted in a violent up shot as soon as the blades had some positive pitch. I added washers on the bolt & that helped a lot, much less slop. Still need to fly it again.
2. First test flight was OK on tail hold (I am using KDS Flymentor). Second flight (after fixing pitch slop) I no longer have any tail control, and of course it caused me to crash. It only turns left, even at full right stick, it still spins left. Now my tail pitch controller seems to have a lot of slop in it. Do you need a quad tail to work properly with the quad head, or do I just need to figure out what is wrong with my tail pitch controller?
You need to get mechanical setup sorted out first. And for initial test flights, I would suggest not using FlyMentor. Multi rotor heads are much more stable in any case.
You do not need a quad tail rotor, but you need a high head speed on the main to give adequate tail rotor authority.
Third test flight was a success!! Thanks WTWUK for the advice! I rebuilt the tail rotor & got rid of 90% of the slop - things just weren't tight enough, maybe I need to use more liketite. :) I reduced the Flymentor to off, & cranked up the head speed very high. It handled quite well using only the tail gyro & no other stabalizers (mechanical or electronic). Just to see how things would work I used a separate dial for the throttle & played with different head speeds. It definitely makes a difference, and there seemed to be a sweet spot for good handling.
I also dialed up the Flymentor to see how it would work, and like you said, it really did not help. Flymentor just made it twitchy while trying to hold a stable hover. I might just pull Flymentor off of it, not sure yet.
Hi can someone please tell me how long the linkage rods are between the swash and the blade grips. I need to replace mine and hobby king support did not give me the answer
Thanks
Easy way to do the linkages is by yourself - often 'standard' measurements given are incorrect.
Transmitter at mid stick, swash level and then adjust the links to give zero pitch. Do one, remove it and then do the remaining three the same length. Simple.
43mm in my hughes 500E. I have a mechanical pitch range -14º/ 14º. Of course I have set a shorter pitch range, but mechanically it is possible.
More than 80 flights with 43mm linkage rods length.
Can't quite follow what you mean, but having one in my hand at the moment, it is correct - there are no plastic pieces, except the swash radius arm.
If you could add a little more info to your question, I can give a definitive answer.
The metal head needs no plastic parts in it to work properly. The fact that it is a full metal head assembly is a plus because it will not wear out as fast, a good thing. Just put it in as received and you should have good luck with it.
How many link balls is the swash plate supposed to have? The one that came with my 4 blade rotor head has 6, it appears to be for a 5 blade rotor head?
Because it is a four bladed rotor head, you should not need a flybarless gyro setup, but having said that, you do need a good heading hold gyro to keep the heli flying straight and true. Good luck.
I just purchased one of these to use with a new HK450 V2 build and the Hughes MD500 fuselage (I know, the T-tail MD500s have 5 blades, but since the fuselage isn't scale I'm not going for a true scale build on this).
I'll be using CopterX composite main blades with it (CX450BA-20-04) and a CopterX flybarless 3-axis gyro system as well (CX-3X1000) for stabilization in the wind (we have LOTS of wind here and my research has indicated that wind is a BIG problem for non-stabilized setups with 4 or 5 blades).
I've read up on the phasing adjustments needed to fly without the 3-axis gyro, should I do this phasing setup even with the electronic 3-axis stabilization?
Thanks!
I mechanically phase all my fbl and multis during initial set up whether using e-stab or not. this way it is easier to experiment with and without e-stab on same heli without alot of fuss. My experience is e-stab systems work better/require less fiddling if the mechanical phasing is good to start with.
Thanks Hella-Kopterz, that would make good sense. I'm kind of excited by using the 4-blade rotor head and a FBL system, I'm hoping everything goes well. I look forward to trying it out!
Mechanical phasing of the head is a MUST if you want the heli to fly right. Otherwise, you'll be chasing it all over the sky. Do the mechanical phasing as Hella-Kopterz said, then do final trim in the Tx. Good luck.
I intend to use this rotor for my HK 450PRO, do i need to install any electronics with this or i can just replace my current 2 blade (with flybar). what will be my set-up?
You can just swap heads and make a few adjustments {see setup}, however, this will only fly properly with slow, deliberate, scale like inputs. Any FFF, aerobatics, or 3d, you will need a FBL controller. Without electronic FBL unit, head will behave eraticly in FFF causing a crash.
Great match for the Trex 450 and HK 450 too! I have the head on both (with BeastX) and love them.
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kdawgdinner
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The trick is that you do the phasing mechanically. Align 1 blade with the tail and slide the follower so that the linkage is 0 degree offset. That way you can fly it WITHOUT flybarless electronics. The tal stills needs a bit more authority. I have a high RPM on the head and a very flat pitch curve (-4 to plus8). And a little expo didn't hurt either (never use expo before). I use standard (cheap) fibreglass blades which you can buy anywhere. I use a
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Hoover
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Nice finish and good fit.The supplied shaft is a snug fit in the bearings and all the parts need thread lock, but stll very nice. Generates massive torque and is very quick to respond. Need head speed HIGH and pitch LOW in order for the tail to hold. Sounds different too.Thrilling!!! Get one.
I just ordered one...before reading the reviews! Were there not any construction instructions included with the head?...if not, I feel that they should have been included, thus avoiding the needless consumption of building time, not to mention the confusion of the builds by so many!
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