This famous German glider designed in 1935 is almost a cult classic amongst old-school glider pilots and those looking for something a little different. Its distinctive nose, stubby tail and gull wings are both attractive and functional, helping the original version to reach an altitude record of 6,687m in 1938!
Our Minimoa is a large (2mtr) RTF glider made from super strong reinforced EPO foam. This model comes pre-built with motor, esc and servos already installed. All you need to do is include your own receiver & battery to be ready to fly in 10 minutes.
The HK Minimoa is well designed, with easy access to the battery compartment, and the wings being easily removed with 2 nylon screws and a wing support bracket, making this an easy glider to set up at the field and fit into the back of your car as it takes around 3 minutes to assemble the main wings. The gull wings are kept strong with 2 reinforcing rods, inserted at the time of moulding the EPO; theyre fixed in place and will never move, providing a strong and slop-free support to the wings.
Everything is included with this kit, all you need to provide is your own receiver and battery (around 2200mAh 2 or 3S, 20C).
I bought this glider second hand. It had some wight added to the nose and with a 3S 2200 CG was ok.
Took it for the first flight today. It flies nicely but seem to be massively under powered, would hardly climb.
I plan to put a 4S battery before the next flight.
Does anyone have any comment/advise about that?
I read that the standard motor tends to overheart and I don't want to "cook" it
I thank anyone who can advise me regarding putting the 4S Lipo.
devo dirvi che le viti erano avvitate bene e su 3 motore e 3 kit di eliche è* successa la stessa cosa(il tutto preso da voi).
Parlando con un altro aeromodellista, che ha LO STESSO AEREO a avuto lo stesso problema. abbiamo constatato che avete studiato male il tutto, cioè* non avete creato delle vie di raffreddamento del motore che si è* surriscaldato e si è* fuso tutto l'interno e il supporto del motore, rovinando l'interno della parte anteriore. Gradirei una risposta da parte di Hobby King via e-mail per un discorso privato.l'e-mail si gradirebbe in italiano).
First flight report:
5 flights later... nice scale glider. Add a little rudder and throttle and it can make nice tight turns. I have 40% ailerons to rudder mix to reduce adverse yaw- I do not have differential in the ailerons yet. Some roll coupling when rudder added to turns but not bad....slight counter aileron inputs on sharper rudder turns is helpful. Loops nicely with power on and rolls are recommended only at higher altitude as full down is required while inverted. My cg is at 58 mm so I 'd need more than full down at the 54 mm cg. I may add some more weight than the 1.75 oz currently right behind the motor. I used lead instead of the supplied 2 oz blocks because it is easier to cut and it is denser so that leaves more airflow area up front. Dead air (no rising air) and I still got 20 minutes with throttle on 25% of the time. All that and only 1450mah consumed from a 2200 3s 20C Turnigy lipo. I won't be needing throttle to elevator mix- but the advice to launch at no or half throttle is a good idea- it does climb on throttle a bit. Plenty of time to get to the controls on a 1/2 throttle launch. I used ~15 mm of airbrakes programmed into the flaperons and will probably add more because it likes to land long. Mine is 2lb 4.4oz with the 2200 3s lipo which is 11 oz per sq ft according to Glagool on anotber tbread in RCG. Thats a little heavy cor thermal gliders which like 5-10 oz per sqft but on the light side of the 10-15 oz per sqft recommended for slop soaring. Can't wait to get it to the slope!!
The 4 screws and curved wire are not the nylon wing/tailplane fixings or the angled wing bracing rod.
these items were in a small plastic bag 25x25mm the screws are approx 1mm x 2mm and the curved wire is about 12mm in length so your answer on this is wrong.
I will try one weight as suggested as I'm using the same battery.
Thankyou for your quick reply, if you can tell me what the screws/wire are for it would help.
First, I can only judge from mine- the screws fit the servo horn wire clamps and are probably spares and my small bag also contained a small allen wrench ~2cm x 4cm. The wrench fits the rwo motor attach. screws accessed thru the two 3mm holes with patience and britht light! My kit contained the weights but the sticky pad in mine appears to be Velcro®*. Hope this helps
I have just received my Minimoa all is fine and undamaged but I would have liked some instructions in the kit (I have found the online pdf). Everything seems straight forward except there is no mention of some of the components in the kit.
Firstly: there are 2 large metal blocks which I assume are to add wieght to the fuselage to balance it but there is no information WHERE to fit them also do I use the sticky pads for this.
Second: The is a pack of 4 small screws and a curved piece of wire, what are these for?
your advice on these would be appreciated and make help others with the same questions. Finally I would like to say that I was impressed with the speed of delivery (3 days) especially at Christmas
1, the metal block is for balance de plane i have use 1 for my minimoa whith a turnigy 2200 batery, i use this metal in the front of the plane, the screws are 2 for the wing and 2 for the wing in the tail, the cuved pace is use for pot the 2 wing in a fucelage
good park flyer needs good 12 kl wind if you wish to glide with be shaw to cheak engen mounts after first flight ther ar two axces points to do this will save you a bit of disopoitment when comes loss and drill ventulation holls one in nose cone and i put two in the side on an angel to force air in to the motter to keep cool as can get hot and soffen engin mount i put i small peace of ply to strenth it works well great fun i put leggo men in the copict lifelike piolets
Just helped a friend flew his today with a 3000mah batt. Still gotta add some weights to get the CG as written in the manual. When flying with 3300mah, it seems perfect for CG n it flew for about a good 15 to 17 mins in strong winds. The recommended 2200mah is simply too light for CG.
3000mah apparently not too heavy. We flew in strong winds and it helps to be more head heavy than tail heavy. And since my fren is using lots of weights with 2200mah just to get the CG right, we trial-n-error with heavier batts all the way to 3300mah. 3000mah seems to be idea for us. For light to no winds, prob a 2600mah to 2800mah might do too.
I want to know how to program the minimoa ESC. i am useing it in a parkmaster 3d, and the brake funktion is on and i cant find the program to turn it off. can someone help me or steer me in the right direction.
I bought this plane some time ago and finally got around to building it. Great build, even better if HobbyKing had supplied the Nylon bolts to put it together. The first time anything has been missing from anything I bought. Could someone kindly let me know what the sizes are please.
Both the main wing and the tail bolts as well. I'm sure I need the original types because of the unusually shaped heads. Plus I'd like to keep it original. Hopefully HK have them in the hardware section.
Thanks in advance.
Well Sir it is very strange you did not get them. It shows the clearly fitted on picture 6,7 and 8. I know you do not like to complain but please HobbyKing know so no one else has to have the same problem. I have never bought this plane (No into gligers). Why did you buy her from the International Warehouse and not the AUS one???
I measured my wing and tailplane bolts to be M4 x 0.7 pitch and 40 mm long. Hope that this is still helpful for you, waterlogged. Its a nice glider for the slope or zooming around a bit on light to medium winds. My 2200 mah 3s setup goes 20 minutes with no lift around, just power up and glide down, ~25% of the time power on. Stock motor purchased in Dec 2012 has 9x5 prop and pulls 12A at fullthrottle, with fresh 20C battery.
I AM ALSO LOOKING WITH NO SUCCESS..LABEL ON MOTOR SAYS HOBBYKING DST CE....HOBBYKING SITE SHOWS SAME MOTOR LABELED TURNIGY DST 1200 BUT OUT OF STOCK...HAVENT FOUND COMPARABLE REPLACEMENT THAT WILL FIT PLASTIC NOSE CONE PLATE
i built a ply wood firewall installed a .15 sized motor, and fiberglassed the nose. getting 5 climbs to 2000ft. per 2200mah pack. using flaps for thermaling, and reflex for climb outs and going from thermalto thermal. love this bird.now for the geronimo!!!!!!!!!
Has anyone used ailerons as spoilerons on their Minimoa? If so how much travel did you use & were they effective?
I read a lot of comments about how long the glide is so I thought spoilerons woul help with shorter landings.
I put spoilerons up about 12mm and would suggest going up to 15 because it does float at 2lb 4.4 oz. But you run out of travel at 12mm spoilerons And full aileron using the ohtermost hole on the aileron horn. I will be moving in 1 hole and try again in the springtime...
Hi, has anyone flown this glider on 2s 7.4v lipo & if so, how did it perform? I've read some reviews saying that it seems over powered for the type of glider it is so thought maybe it would be better on 2s.
I have only flown mine on 3S but I think 2S would be marginal on launch plus you wouldn't get many climbs back to altitude when looking for thermals.
The Minimoa climbs with authority but is no hotliner and you have to pay attention. I have flow under and overpowered gliders and they aren't much fn.
I tried it with a 2s LiPo and it is possible to fly with. However, by reason of the fact that a 2s LiPo is lighter than a 3S LiPo, I had to "load" my Minimoa with weight in the nose. For the launch I had to give full speed and the climbing was slow. I think Minimoa could be flown slow but it is not that fun. I changed after three flights back to a 3S LiPo. With this setup I have just more possibilities.
I am transporting Minimoa in the original paper box. For safe elevator mount and unmount, it is required to use detachable terminator on its pushrod and it is better to toughen the fuselage mount under elevator by 0,6mm plywood.
Hi, ses it is a 2 pieces wings. I just bought one and I can tell you that the look is beautifull but the quality is not that great. The first time I put the Minimoa in the air it fly 3 or 4 minutes and the temperature of the motor went so high that the plastic motor mount melted and the motor was hanging by the wires.
It has nothing to do with throttle control settings. It's your ESC. It needs the brakes set to on. I assume you mean it doesn't stop whilst retracted and flying. Is this the case?
Kriztian, please don't give answers unless you know what your talking about. If someone set their throttle to reverse whilst switched on you could cause severe injury or damage to the owner and the plane.
I am relatively new, Looking to buy my second glider (my first was a Wild Hawk From Harbor Freight).
This will be my first plane with Ailerons. My question is, which would be better The Minimoa 2mtr R/C Glider
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewIt em.asp?idProduct=14886 ($113)
or the Easy Fly Glider
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_ viewItem.asp?idProduct=17415 ($77)
Is the Minimoa worth the $40 extra cost?
Hi i have a Minimoa 2m and it would make a good first aileron glider the ailerons are not overly sensitive so while you are getting use to them you have the option to use just rudder and elevator because the model flys well with using either. One note to remember with the minimoa it is a glider not a plane and should not be flown like a power plane it will overheat the motor. Another tip is not to give it full throttle when you take off as the glider will pitch up significantly. Good luck Phil
Well no reply yet but anyway the model arrived today and everything went together like clockwork Only one small problem one of the built in nuts for the wing retainer screws is missing but will replace that tomorrow. i am going to try a 2S battery as only need a steady climb rate. awaiting Hobbyking 2200 2 S but in meantime put in an 1800 2 s and with he SUPPLIED WEIGHTS it balances perfectly at c of g point. I used to fly full size vintage gliders so am particularly interested in this model . I have drilled 6 holes in the spinner backing plate and a bigger one at the centre of the spinnerfor ventilation I haven't flown it yet but so far so good and will report on how it flies with 2 S in due course
Mikesan, what were the sizes of all the bolts for both wings. Mine were missing also.
Mallyboy, There is a small hole on either side of the cowling. By turning the motor you can line up two screws in line with these holes. Just unscrew them and the assembly will come away.
Has anyone had any issues with supply of parts, mine arrived missing several vital bits such as the wing mounts. Contacted Hobby king parts ordered on 15 dec 2010 and still hasn't arrived. Bloody annoyed and will be seeing the Australian consumer protestion authority on the matter next week.
None of the bolts arrived with mine. I'm not even going to bother trying to get them replaced. I haven't got the time or energy to jump through all the hoops HobbyKing require to make any claims. I want to fly the plane I paid them for next week , not next year, if I'm lucky.
Hola javier, recuerde que es una sola varilla que viene en el kit y encaja en los tubos asignados para ello y para evitar un accidente puede unir las alas con un refuerzo, muy facil de hacer igualmente desarmable, puede ver un ejemplo de esto en la carpetab Files. Yo lo hice y ya he cumplido muchos vuelos sin inconvenientes. Espero disfrute este agradable avion.
To remove the motor Find two small holes on either side of the cowling. Look through these holes and slowly rotate the prop or shaft. You will see a screw appear, undo it and then continue rotating and another one will appear, undo that and the motor is removable.
It is possible, however it is advisable to allow ventilation inside, remember that the firewall is in plastic.
3 thumbs up!
excellent glider, first flight today combination slope thermal flight, 10 to 15 mph south wind. flight duration 40 minutes mah used was 550 out of 2200, only complaint is the plane could have used a heavier motor, as balance was touchy, needs nose weight, when under powered flight. battery was turnigy 2200 20c 3 cell. one cautionary note, plane launces better at 2/3 throttle than at full bore.
4 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
Mine arrives today, good in general. Please, where is located C.G. on this model?
ESC manual for prop brake?
3 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
Whats not to like? This is my first 2m span foamy and I am deleighted with my choice. Thought my local birdlife was used to my planes by now but this one realy got them exited! I got the trim wrong on maiden (too much up elevator) and had to do some impromptu arobatics to keap her out of the trees. (tongue up to my eyeball!) Hadn't intended to stress it like that but it's nice to know she is up for it. Keap em comming HK.
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1 thumbs up!
Packaging: almost perfect, small bent at the end of the wings (nothing to do, seems like wingtips)
Modifications to do: U-shaped steel rod needed to be twisted, as the elevator was in "roll axis" spinner needs hole for cooling the motor lead in the nose
Parts are Art-Tech parts with HK stickers. Servos: AS-090, motor: C2830 11.1V (At Art-tech it is only for 2cell LiPo)
AUW:1070g config:enough power
Overall: beatiful and calm glider. Perfect!
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1 thumbs up!
Got mine flying today! - nice and easy to get in the air. Had to get used to special wingdesign that tricket me a couple of times while in the air, couldent see which way it turned. Flyes fine HOWEVER the motor mount is of plastic! and it melted on second flight - which means it comes out of the airplane. I had to crash land and now the motor is smashe. Plane is OK. I would highly recommed to modify the motor mount and add a heavier motor.
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The Minimoa is really easy to fly and looks great in the air! I fly the model on a 3S 2200mAh pack with a little nose ballast. If you wanted to you could fly with a 2600mAh or more. It's a big plane with plenty of wing, so dont worry about the weight! By far my most favourite glider at hobbyking right now. If your wife is telling you to stop buying R/C products; this model is still worth the risk. Divorce-Risk-Approved! Ha!