Its no “Mystery” where these ESCs are made, now they are available to you at HobbyKing prices.
Built with imported N-Channel mosFET's and an ultra fast Atmel MCU & heartbeat make this a high performance ESC with excellent sync capabilities. This ESC has a 3A BEC for solid reliable servo power. Programmable via an R/C controller.It allows you to program all functions to fit your specific needs, which makes it efficient and user friendly.
Features: Extremely low internal resistance Super smooth and accurate throttle linearity Over heat and over-load protection Auto shut down when signal is lost or radio interference becomes severe for more than 2 seconds Supports high RPM motors Power arming protection (prevents the motor from accidentally running when switched ON) New Advanced programming software
Programming features: Brake setting (we recommend using brake for only folding props applications) Battery type(LiPo or NiCd/NiMh) Low voltage cutoff setting Factory default setup restore Timing settings (to enhance ESC efficiency and smoothness) Soft acceleration start ups (for delicate gearbox and helicopter applications) Governor mode(for helicopter applications) Motor rotation( clockwise\counterclockwise) Switching frequency Low voltage cutoff type (power reduction orirnmediate shutdown)
Factory default settings: Brake: off Battery type Detect: LiPo with Automatic Cell Low voltage cutoff threshold: Medium (3.0V/65%) Timing setup: Automatic Soft Acceleration Start Up: Medium Governor mode : OFF Frequency : 8kHz Low voltage cutoff type: Reduce power
I can see it would be quite some work to retrofit watercooling, but an air cooled ESC would need to have its heatsink on the outside of the boat to not overheat, and that also requires quite some modding. Anyway, good luck with whatever solution you choose!
What makes this ESC better than the F-30A (link: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15205__Ho bby_King_30A_ESC_3A_UBEC.html)
I understand the F-30A has straight pins so flashing is easier, is that the only difference?
Also does anyone know what size transparent shrink I should buy to recover it? Or shrink size in Black shrink?
either will work, but the clear lets you see the label. 1-1 1/2 inch should work dont know about the F-30 but this one flashes easily with the adapter and is very smooth after the upgrade.. made a world of difference on my 550 quad
I'd dip it in plasti-dip or liquid tape, but leave the heatsink free for proper cooling. Observe the edge between the sink and the rest of the ESC so that it's sealed. I'd still only say "splashproof" and not "waterproof" with this or the hot glue method. If it should take to be submerged I'd go with the exoxi method.
Someone plz help , I have plugged my 1000kv and right after 50% throttle my motor is loosing speed , It like picking up speed then again throttle down ,Throttle range is set even i rested my ESC but no luck.(Motor max AMP 20A)
Ok, there are 2 possible problems: 1) the throttle curve on the TX is not set correctlu (I am thinking a high possibility), and 2) The motor poles is not set correctly on the ESC. Normally, this is automatic, but on some (very few) motors, this has to be set manually.
If it's not water cooled, then it's not a boat ESC. If you need reverse, you need a boat or car ESC. So that leaves waterproof car ESCs which only come in kits with motors and out of your amp range (at least here).
You could get a car ESC and waterproof it yourself (see question above for that), but I'd still recommend you go with one of these watercooled ones: 9261000008 or TR-M-35A. You need to cool it somehow...
They look the same to me? I'm trying to understand the difference. The F-30A seems to have straight contacts which makes programming much easier vs buying the $19.99 program tool. OR soldering to contacts around the board.
I'm more interested in which of these is a better ESC!
I am using these in 2 of my fixed wing aircraft. They don't overheat, and can take better bursts than other ESC's I have had. the programming card for these is just a couple dollars, so simply add it from the accessories tab, but I have not needed the programming card yet.
Hi Salvador, When you receive an ESC it should include an instruction sheet, but I'm not 100% if you get one with this ESC. If not, you can download it from the "Files" tab above. The ESC is pretty much plug'n'play. Just set the throttle range as you would any other ESC and the rest is done automatically. I own 4 of these and have never had a problem. Cheers, EA!
Yes it does. It is really basic, just how to set the throttle range, etc. I have the programmer for it, but as ElectricAussie said, Plug N' Play. If you have special requirements, then get the programmer too.
any body used thees with a naza flight controler with out flashing them ??? i have NTM 28/26 with 2200mah 4s lipo's with 9X4.7 props and i am looking at thees but i havent got a clue on flashing them with simonk so whant to use them out of the box will thay work ??
Hi Aeknarong, The whole BlueSeries line is my favorite. I'm running the 12A, 20A, 30A, and 40A in various 3D planes and have been very happy with them all. The best feature is the auto-timing. No guessing which setting to use, the ESC calculates the most efficient setting. Cheers, EA!
Too heavy to begin with and a total over kill and waste of money. 14AWG is normally used on the battery side of 30-40A rated ESCs. Your motor has a max current rating use that as a guide for your cable size. Your ESC could be oversized too but that is a different story. Matching motor, propeller, ESC, battery and cables is very important for a successful and long lasting build.
That clears my worries somewhat* as I couldn't wait any longer and had to place my order. I opted for a 2450mAh 30C 3S Li-Po from Turnigy - I keep buying Turnigy.. I don't know why. I suspect I will end up buying a few batteries anyhow* and I will opt for slightly larger. Thanks again!
I feel like I should go elsewhere, in fear of nagging. My shopping list so far (minus the wires, connectors and misc) is: The HobbyKing SK450 frame. 4xD2830-11 1000kv Turnigy motors. 4x 30Amp Turnigy Plush ESC. a set of 10 x4.5 props. And the KK2. Any Ideas on batteries? I wouldn't mind decent flying times. I was thinking the Turnigy 2450mAh 3S? I am an electrical maintenance engineer, so it is slightly embarrassing having to ask, but I have done little work with RC since being a lot younger and forget what matters. Also what discharge (C) rating should I aim for in the battery? Thank you for your replies, you have been very helpful!
Max current for the D2830 is about 21A, so with 4 units we are talking about 80 odd amps peak current. You would need minimum 35C 2450mAh to handle that load. I would go for 40C ratings on the batteries.
I have 3 of the blueseries in my planes, they are really excellent. The plush is just as good, I agree with EA on what he said. Sorry to hear you are going with a different ESC. Maybe that you have a plush coming, you should order a blueseries, and you won't be stressed waiting for it.
I was just looking for a little advice, I have scrawled forums for the past couple of weeks and feel like I have learnt little of how to match components for a successful project. I am somewhat of a 'learn by doing' kind of person. I was just wondering if someone could point me in the right direction.
Would this ESC be compatible with:
***********hobbyking.*****/hobbyking/store/__ 28675__D2830_11_1000kv_Brushless_Motor_UK_Warehouse_ .html
And the KK2 Flight controller?
And what would be the best battery? 3S?
Thank you for any responses.
Hi Sonny, This ESC is a perfect match for the D2830-11 motor. I have that set-up on a 500g 3D foamie and it has been flawless. Best battery would be a 3S LiPo with no less than 1300mah (preferably 1500mah) capacity. With a 9x6SF prop I'm pulling 19A current on the D2830. My general rule of thumb in choosing an ESC is to take the peak motor current and add at least 25% so that the ESC is not struggling near it peak capacity. Much less risk of a failure/crash. Why a 1500mah LiPo? If peak current is 19A, the average current for the flight (3D style) will be roughly 2/3 of the peak, or 12A. A 1500mah LiPo will deliver 1.5A for 1 hour. 12A = 1.5A x 8, so the 1500mah will deliver 12A for 1/8 of an hour or 7-8 minutes. The ESC will begin to power down before the battery is fully discharged, so actual flying time will be 6-7 minutes which is reasonable. Good luck! Cheers, EA!
good esc for super simples but not same performance according to Turnigy plush
3 comments. Reply..
I put two of these in a Dynam A-10 with the stock 64mm 6 bladed edf's & a Turnigy P2627L EDF Outrunner 4200kv for 55/64mm with a turnigy 3000mAh 40c lipo. Esc's are giving out 34A at WOW & come down a little hot on hard flying but are doing the job and keeping the plane really low on weight. great price I love these blue babies, go for it. I will by buying more!!!