Designed to be a direct swap out for your 10 size glow engine. This brushlessoutrunner will provide more power and with its high efficiency, long run times. A quality motor, built specifically for planes designed to fly with a 10 size glow engine.
Spec. Battery: 2~3 Cell /7.4~11.1V
Max current: 32A
No load current: 10V/2.10A
Current capacity: 42A/15sec
Internal resistance: 0.04 ohm Weight: 149g (not including connectors) Diameter of shaft: 5mm Dimensions: 68x35mm
40A ESC 2S~3S Li-Po / 6 ~ 10-cell Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 10x5 ~ 12x6 prop Suitable for sport and scale airplanes weighing 32 to 48 ounces (0.91–1.36 kg).
I have a super cub LP. i ve reinforced the wings and other mods so its a little heavier. I want to put this motor in it "g10" and have the exact motor mount that i need. the battery i have is 3s 15c. 20c bursts 11.1v 1300mah. the stock motor was a 480 brushed motor.Is it possible to use all this for the g10? or should i upgrade esc, reciver and battery?
Shaun, the size and everything else about these Easymatch motors seem to be very, very close to EF brushless motors. That being the case, try these bearings* One 5 x 14 x 5mm Bearing and One 5 x 11 x 5mm Bearing.
Shaun,I don't know which country you are in but in the UK all you would do would be to ring up a bearing company give them the inside mm the outside mm and the depth and they would send you two sets of quality Japanese Eizo bearings for about ten pounds.
Would work great on one if your planning on building a LARGE octocopter. Keep in mind this uses 40 amp esc and uses around a 10 inch prop. That makes for a BIG copter. You may consider something smaller as it will be less expensive and draw fewer amps permitting the use of lower amp and less expensive esc.
Has anyone taken this motor apart. I made a Stoooopid mistake and crashed it and now it sounds like I have some dirt or something inside causing considerable noise. I cannot seem to get it apart. Is there a trick I am missing? PS. It will take my old supercub vertical!
I have this motor in my PZ F4U Corsair and it's a great motor and it really wakes the corsair up,as far as taking the motor to bits i haven't done so on this one yet,but once you take the collar off the bottom look for a grub screw at the top and then loosen that one up and the you should be good to go,if thats still tight you might have to use a block of wood and drill out a hole for the shaft to go into,then use another smaller block of wood and put it on the other end and gently tap down on it,before trying this look on Youtube on how to take a brushless motor apart as there are some good examples on there,i hope this was of some help but do look on YT first as it will help.
I am planning on using this in my flyzone sensei with the Turnigy plush 40 esc and 3 cell 2200 25 c batteries. I am assuming as with most motors these days the motor shaft can be reversed ? Will make the fit much better if it does .
I have ordered 6 of these motors and have used them on several different setups. This motor works with a Medium timing setting. Low and High do not work well with this motor. 60a esc is too high for this motor as it max's out at 32a. Anything higher than that, you will greatly shorten the motor's life. hope this helps. Martin
I don't think you can. I searched rc universe and rc groups for someone who has done this and I can't find it. Since this is only spec'd out to 2-3 cell, people are reluctant to try. I've got a few of them coming, perhaps it's time to try an experiment!
If you want to try, I think the largest prop you could use would be 8x6. This would give you about 46oz (~1.4kg) of thrust at about 72mph(32m/s) and 26A. Anything larger would draw too much power. If you want to play it safe, start with a 7x5
I had this problem too - you need a propeller. Just trying to put the collet on the shaft doesn't work - the spinner doesn't screw far enough down to tighten against the motor shaft. When you put a prop on there, everything works fine.
Hi, I used this motor for a power-glider to sport trainer conversion. I'm not sure about your particular plane, but I would highly recommend using a Turnigy 3s 2200mah lipo (T2200.3S.40). Not expensive, excellent power, managable weight. Remember that the motor comes with the mount. So screw it to the firewall and away you go! Cheers.
I think you are aiming just a little too large. As a starter, I would fit a 12 inch diameter prop with a pitch of 5 or 6 and I would tend to go for a slightly rounded or curved "paddle" bladed, slow-fly type shape, if I could get that style of folding blade to fit. Be ready to experiment.
not so much a question as a little bit of info. Found these prop specs, enjoy:
Props tested on 3S :
PKZ 9.5x7.5 (T28) = 9737rpm for 31A and 360W
MAS E 10x8 = 9095rpm for 37A and 412W
APC 10x7E = 9223rpm for 32.5A and 360W
APC 11x7E = 8613rpm for 38A and 412W
MAS 10x7x3 = 9011rpm for 31.5A and 340W
Props tested on 4S :
APC 8x8E = 11972rpm for 40A and 580W.
I think it is. If you reverse the shaft, you just habe to screw the little screw in again and it will work. All of my motors I reversed the shaft work properly. Never use a hammer, just a vise and a piece of wood.
This motor is rated for 3-4s lipos. It stands to reason that a 4s battery over a 3s would perform better. I would imagine that the over all lifespan of the motor would be decreased some, but performance would be improved. Be sure to check your electronics system for overheating. I dont have a lot of equipment to check my gear so I always fly a new motor/battery set up for about a third of the time I expect to be able to fly normally. After flying I recharge and watch the amount of mAh I used and
Yes, you can. When you reverse the shaft, you will need to grind a flat spot on the back of the shaft that the collar set screw can tighten down on. The flat spot that was now at the back will now be at the front. Will not hamper performance.
what is the proper procedure for tightening the prop adapter that comes with it to the shaft? normally it would be a set screw but this prop adapter has a flanged end with 4 slits. Does the spacer need to be forced down over this to tighten it up? thanks
Nope, you don't need to force anything. Just take a small metal bar (I use whatever I have handy - a hex wrench or a thin screw driver) and inset it through the holes in the spinner. Use this bar to tighten the spinner even more than what you can do hand tightening it. This will cause the prop adapter to clamp down on the motor shaft. The mechanical design is interesting. The spinner and the prop adapter work in concert to tighten this down against the motor shaft.
I also used a small screw driver and inserted it through the hole in the spinner and the propeller still slipped. Solution: I ground a flat spot on the shaft (about 1/4" in length) from tip of shaft inward towards the motor. Then retighten on prop adapter....no more slipping!
Just bought 4 of these, to use in 2 builds of the AMA featured 'Super Sportwin'. Would like to reverse the shaft for optimal mounting, but I don't have a big enough vice, and am worried about damage. Are there any other tips for safely removing and reversing this shaft (after removing the collar and other set screw/allen)? Even with a vice, how would you get the shaft fully removed? Finally, I assume the cone-shapped collar on the inside of the case is part of the cover, not the shaft. Right?
You are correct, the shaft is straight. That cone shaped collar stays fixed in the case of the motor. After loosening the set screws (and rear collar), I use a punch and a block of wood to puch out the shaft. The wood block has a hole for the shaft to slide into. The first time I did this, I was a little nervous too.
I'm using that setup in mine with a MAS 10/6 prop and I do 5 1/2 minutes on a 2200Mah 3s.(Not heavy on the throttle) I usually have 3.7 to 3.8 volts per cell afterwards. The only thing you have to do is cut the center of the cowling or the front of the motor will hit it. I also elongated the mounting holes on the cowl and moved the cowling about 1/16" forward for more clearance. No rubbing and it runs fine.
The motor's fine, but I would go with a 60A ESC. WebOCalc says that this motor can do up to a 10x10 APC-TE. This would require the use of a 60A ESC, and the motor is only rated for 15 second bursts at this level, but you're looking at close to 80mph with this prop. The 60A is only $9 bucks more and gives you so many more options for props on this plane. You do have to modify the cowl if you want to use this motor with the trojan. Buying more of an ESC isn't a bad thing, as the motor will only
I use the TG10 for my parkzone T-28. It is a step up from the motor you have listed (AXI 2820/12). The AXI is 990Kv and the G10 is 1100Kv. The G10 is 35 grams heavier but has more than enough power to offset this. Be sure to check your COG when using the G10 (as it will need to be properly set). Your landing speed will be faster as well (so be prepared).The G10 is a great motor!
1 thumbs up!
Today I have flown my Parkzone T 28 with the G10.
Setup: 3S turnigy nano-tech 2200, 35C and 10x6 master airscrew
Max current about 30.5 A @ full battery, max input power about 325 W.
The T 28 climbes now vertically.
4 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
This engine has the same bolt pattern as a eflight and parkzone.So this engine will fit Parkzone P-51 Mustang BL,F4F Wildcat,F4U Corsair,T28 Trojan,P-47D Thunderbolt.Build quality looks great.I gave it four stars because there are no bullet connectors and the prop adapter does not fit APC-E,Master Airscrew,Parkzone Propellers you will need to drill em out.
5 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
I mounted one on my Parkzone corsair with Pentium 40A esc and Turnigy Nano- tech 2200 25c 3s and stock two blade prop, it now has unlimited vertical, awesome replacement to the stock motor !
I bought this motor to use it on hk cessna 1.4meter wing kit but up till now it is backordered for over 6 weeks and it i have not tested it yet but i have two motors from this line and i like them. so i gave it 5 stars but have not tested it.
No comments. Reply..
I mounted this motor on my Pz Bf-109. Fit perfectly ! i' just had to put the propeller mount 3mm fwd. I mounted the G10 whit an 40 amp ESC and use 2200 mha battery. So powerfull ! wonderfull! thank's HK