The GeeBee R2 draws a crowd wherever it goes. Even more so in a 120 size fiberglass version! This model comes as an ARF and includes water decals pre applied under the clear gel coat as well as the lettering seen in the image. The landing gear is completed with beautiful wheel pants and 5mm spring steel struts. This is a very exciting model for pilots familiar with fast models. As this is a fiberglass kit, it is a builders model and takes around 4-5hrs to complete.
Spec. Wing Span : 1850mm Length : 1160mm Servo: 4~5 x Standard Servo Motor: Glow: 120, Gas 30cc or electric Eqivilent Required. All electronics Motor System
IMPORTANT. READ THIS BEFORE YOU PURCHASE -This product can only be sent EMS, and cannot be shipped to USA (USPS size restrictions) -This product will be stocked in US/DE/AU warehouses within 60 days. -Many countries cannot order this size/weight at this time. We will update shipping this week.
Just picked mine up today from the hobby king us warehouse, finish is not flawless, there are a few runs in the paint, but I'm fine with it. I recommend replacing the hinges, as they are way to small, I am going to replace the aluminum wing tube and tail wheel with graph tech ones. No manual, and the 2 PDF files here on hobby king are worthless. Someone suggested using the great planes Manual, but they are not the same models in anyway. I found this build thread that I feel is the best "manual" out there, seeing as it is this model that this guy put together. *******z11.invisionfree****/GMARC/index.php?showtopi c=223
Hi Patrick, congratulaton to your Hobby King Gee Bee (sarcasm)....you´*ve bought much work....
This is a good link, i found it like you with google and i´*m now in contact with this guy.
When you scroll down in the thread you will find pictures and some information to my HK Gee Bee.
The manual is bad, but the pictures are helpful and the CG (80mm) is correct, but better start with 75mm.
You will have to modify the landing gear,i had the idea to use the Seagull Gee Bee Z struts, i added an aluminium brace.
And i divided the pants, very important to prevent nose overs.
If you have further questions or want to talk Gee Bee, contact me: brezel53-at-freenet(dot).de
Hello Ed, yes of course, you can balance out every plane with every engine, but you have to put an eye on the wing loading. It is already high with the recommended 120 4 stroke glow engine.
You mean the Evolution radial? Ok, it weighs "only" 1,4kg (3,1lbs) (says the manufacterer...), worth a try, but this radial has in comparison to a single or twin very less power per kg/lbs! In words the same power as a OS FS120, but almost 500gr heavier. Think about that!
The engine weight should not exceed 1kg (2.2lbs). Otherwise the flight characteristics go bad, very bad...(landings, stall speed).
This model was developed for 120 glow 4 stroke engines (single, eventually twin boxer).
I see a lot here receiving the plane with no manual. If this is indeed true it is unacceptable, and why can't HK stick in a photo copy of it or something. The throws and CogG are important for all builds. The actual building is generally straight forward as with most arfs.
Hello everyone, I just received my HK Gee Bee 120 today and it too has no instructions or manual of any kind. I found where you can download it on the Hobby King site. If you go to the Gee Bee 120 product page and scroll down towards the bottom there are four tabs you can click on (Discussion, Reviews, Videos, and Files). That's the area where I found this discussion. If you click on the "Files" tab you will see Part 1 and Part 2 of the manual available to download in PDF format. It's a fairly useless manual but it does have a few fuzzy photos that answered a couple of my questions and it does indicate where the CG should be and shows a control throw or two. Better than nothing and I'm sure that's all we're gonna get...
I just have received my GeeBee, unfortunately without any instruction manual! Does some one have a copy and could forward as PDF electronicaly. At least any information on the cruicial CG point! thanks and best regards Kurt e-mail: k-m.wiss*intergga.ch
When will this be available in the EU warehouse please?? It's already more than the 60 days stated above? Someone wrote "end of january" in the discussion of the one stocked in AUS, but we are already end of February and still nothing...
Why does the R2 display the number 11. It should display the number 7. The 11 is for the R1. The license # NR2101 is correct to the R2. If it were an R1(#11), it would be NR2100. My models came in with the same lettering as displayed here.
I purchased one of HK's ASP FS400AR 5-cyl radials when they went on sale last year, and it's been mounted to my bench awaiting a worthy airframe ever since. This looks like it might just fit the bill (if it's ever actually available in the US). Can someone please provide the inside diameter of the engine cowling? I need at least 9in to clear the valve covers. Thanks!
Hi Aaron, the FS400 seems to be the perfect engine for the Gee Bee, but only optical!
It´*s way to heavy around 2,4kg!!!!
You will ruin your Gee Bee!
Go with a 120FS four stroke and this model will make you happy. Engine weight not much over 1kg (2.2lbs)
Thanks brezel53. I did eventually buy the Gee Bee when they went on sale in the US warehouse about 18mo ago. I had to mount all the radio gear and batteries as far aft as possible, but it sounds great, looks fantastic and flies... okay. Better nose heavy though than tail heavy!
Hello Aaron, wow, fantastic! Cannot belive that you landed this fat bird...without damage. Exspecially the HK Gee Bee with that ****py landing gear, one wood block of mine cracked out when i placed the model carefully on the floor...think about that!
Do you have pics or a video? Modifications?
How much flights? Is it still alive?
Tell us more, great. I thought also to install my Magnum FS400, but i am afraid of the weight.
Hi everyone, It would be so much more helpfull if they could give us an electric engine alternative/part number/equivilent and,or/prop size so that we can order everthing together and save the guess work and frustration of ordering the wrong bits
I have a question about electric equivalent :
I understand where you put the engine, I also understand where you put the esc..... but what the deal with the lipo..... can't see on picture where you install them and the way to make easy access....
If a clever guy can make extra picture and upload them this will be very helpful.
This is similiar to the smaller size gee bee. You have to cut the fibreglass to make a "square canopy".. very sad because i hate to ruin the looks. the alternate is to take out/put back the wing everytime you want change batteries
Given the short nose moment couldn't you mount the flight batteries to the side of the motor box? You could reach in through the front of the cowl or put a hatch in the bottom of the cowl where it won't show. This should also allow good cooling for the battery. Saw this arrangement in a review of a large Zero.
Yes it can be a solution, but I don't like the idea of having my fingers or me being in front of the plane when pluging the lipos... It is on my point of view far to dangerous... I don't trust the ESC... A gas engine for this size of plane is dangerous but on my opinion an electric engine that big is more than dangerous...(can't fine a word in English)
What you think ??? Would you plug the lipo for me.... ?
Completely agree regarding the danger of plugging in that way. You need to use another plug or switch to disconnect the esc while fitting the battery. Personally, I'd go for glo with this one anyway. I love the smell of castor in the morning.
Add an additional power switch to the side or bottom of the plane. Use a female Deans mounted inside the plane ( wire from the battery to one pin and the other pin to the of the ESC) and a male Deans as a switch by soldering both pins together.
I wonder about the strength of the landing gear. I have a gee bee Y 97" and they have replaced the wire with aluminumin struts. Had the same with 15 size y the wire woould bend and the spats would brake.
I will still buy one though - they just look to cool!
I too wonder about the stock landing gear that comes with this plane. I would like to see a pic of it if possible or can some tell me if it my be the same design and the GP 120 Gee Bee. I have a fix for that if it is.
What I like about this is that it's totally different from the run of the mill models you may usually see. I love the distinctive look of the GeeBee racers. Apparently that fat fuselage acted like a lifting body just like some modern aircraft - I wonder if this model acts in the same way?
The real aircraft was 7.6m wingspan so this is approximately a 1/4 model. The inside of the fuselage must be huge! Wow.
I'm very happy with this kit. Very good finish on the layup of the fibreglass, although a little extra support in the tail would be good. The instruction manual is not the best. Photocopied and very blured. Every picture has the same work instruction. ( be careful when epoxying hinges) even through the picture is of mounting the motor or installing the elevator. For someone that has made alot of models this is no biggy. Best thing about this model is how much room there is inside.
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Well i received mine the other day. The fiberglass is quite good and overall first impressions are that this is quite decent for the money. There are a lot of things i would have done better if i had of scratched built this. The wing tips are far too thick for some reason. Also the wing decals are wrong but that is minor i guess, you can see in the pics. There really isn't much in the fuselage at all and it may require a little reinforcing and checking of glued joints. But what else would you expect for the money. this would have taken months to scratch build. Landing gear is crap really and as everyone knows the hardest thing with a gee bee is to land it.
I would love to here from someone who has managed to fly this model and what success they have had. I dont think i will spend too much setting this one up as i doubt it will be a very good flyer. Going to set it up as electric. if anyone knows what kit this is a copy of it would be nice to get some conformation on the CG as instructions are the usual useless crap.
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I love so much this plane. I'have got one from an other band and I was very happy when HK got this R1/R2. You must have a good concentration with this 30' racer, but It's not as hard as many people think. I'am waiting the availibility in the DE Warehouse to buy it... but when ?
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I received mine the other day and have started assembling it, the quality of the kit is excellent good heavy duty hardware,better than some 1.20 planes i've had (except the wick type hinges, never trusted this type). only thing that is a let down is the build instructions I notice on the cover page it says 90-1.20, inside the cover it says 52-70, on the back page the c.g. is 80mm does this refer to 70 or a 1.20. size. great value for money ki
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I bought the same, mine is electric (turnigy powered). Pay attention to gravity center and to motors angles.
a little video is here www.link good fun