The HobbyKing Regulator switch is an easy and convenient way to add dual power redundancy to your electronics system. Simply use a pair of 7.4v Lipoly batteries and the system will provide dual 5.9v power outputs. The dual outputs can be used for 2 receivers or with a single receiver by using only one power output. In the case of a single output/single receiver configuration the output being used is supplied power by both batteries or a single battery in the case of a battery failure.
This system provides a stabilized voltage of 5.9v. Perfect for 6v Rx systems. This design enables you to use the latest lightweight Lithium-Polymer cells without exceeding the maximum voltage of 6.0 Volts.
The Hobbyking Sensor is equipped with LED power-on indicators for both power circuits. If you switch one battery on, the associated green LED glows. When both batteries are active, both LEDs light up.
The total voltage loss in the HobbyKing Sensor is about .35v which is so low that the volume of waste heat is almost negligible. The maximum continuous current is 5A which means it can easily handle up to 8 servos. However the rated continuous current of 5A does not reflect the capacity of the electronics which can handle much more for short periods, depending on ambient air temperature.
Do not allow the heat sink to exceed 60 Celsius
Specs: Operating Voltage: 4~9v Power Supply: One or Two 2S 7.4v Lipoly Max Load: 5A cont. Voltage Loss: 0.35v Voltage stabilization: +/- .1v Weight: 35g
Directions. You cannot manually switch the current from one battery to the other, this is done automatically within the system. The control functions consist of three push-buttons, two green LED’s and one red LED. The buttons are marked SET, I and II. The ‘SET’ button is to prepare the system. Holding the SET button in for 2 seconds ‘arms’ both internal switches, this will be shown by the red LED. After you have armed the system, press either or both I, II buttons to activate each battery. Press and hold ‘SET’ to switch the system off again.
I crashed my airplane of 200euro whit this regulator...2 servo hitec 625mg,3 servi hitec 428 i servo hitec 328 for gas and i connected the second output at cdi rcexl 6.0volt...two minutes flying and 5 minutes preflying and the regulator its too hot when i go to the crash...i test at home and i have measuring a temperature of 70 celsius on the alloy lamellar...the maximum power of every servos at max load is 4.5ah and the cdi is 500mah...totally 5 ah. But when flying maximum 3.5 ah. BAD PRODUCT...I PREFER SPEND MONEY IN A SERIOUS POWER SISTEM NEXT TIME!!!
When you connect two 2 cell lipo not przeł*ancza the voltage drop indicates only the red LED. I can only switch the knanł* 2 and it works when you turn on the receiver 1 channel receiver does not work please help. The probability damaged.
I bought two voltage regulators. In both lipo battery connected two LEDs light up green for a second and then turn red. How to program the controller lipo battery? I hold SET until the LED flashes once = lipo? the LED flashes twice = NIMH, Cd? The batteries are fully charged (8.4 v). Why are LED lights red when programming for lipo? Has anyone had a similar problem? Please help solve the problem.
you dont need to program the battery sort (lipo life nmhi) etc The ‘*SET’* button is to prepare the system. Holding the SET button in for 2 seconds ‘*arms’* both internal switches, this will be shown by the red LED. After you have armed the system, press either or both I, II buttons to activate each battery.
Press and hold ‘*SET’* to switch the system off again.
Just a brainwave here. As the voltage is stabelised at 5.6V, it may be used for the ignition of a gass engine that needs no more than 6V criticaly. I picked up that some of them do NOT like more than 6V at all, and if a backup battery for ignition is needed this can be the answer, or am I chasing gooses here?
If you do use it for ignition do not use it for you radio as well.. you must have a totally seperate system for ignition . If you do use for the radio and ignition then you will create a common ground between your ignition and your radio ... bingo spark interference straight into your radio.
Manjo01, it is just a posibility that you may get some spark interference on the radio curcuit. If the radio curcuit is well screened from the ignition curcuit you will have no problem, but with this little thing as a common point, you cannot screen the two inside the little unit, or separate the ground (black wire), so, some interference may get through. NOT TO SAY THAT WILL HAPPEN. As a trainee RC pilot, I nearly lost my plane because of metal pushrods, that start vibrating at some harmonic frequency of the 60Mhtz radio system at a specifiec rev of the motor. Since then I only use plastic "golden rod" pushrods. Personaly I will not take the chance. Keep in mind that your ignition is high voltage pulses that can like a transformer coil, induce a pusle in a nearby wire of the radio system if it is not screened. I hope that will explain some "possibilities" that MAY happen.
That would be big enough to get at least a couple of flights out of a 40 size model. I'd suggest you do one normal flight then charge your battery and see how many miliamps it takes to bring it back up to 4.2 volts.
I know that ,I have some receivers that don't like the high voltage .
I have just extra for you measured the outgoing voltage and it is :
Servos in rest position 6.2v
Moving all the 7 servos 5.7v .
There is no way to alter the outgoing voltage on this switch.
Mine has a stable output voltage of 6.1v but thats no problem.
What makes me worry is that the low voltage alarm LED starts flashing when battery has voltage of 5.8v.
This is way to low for 2cell lipo (alarm should be at 3.3v).
You'll loose your lipo and your plane if you trust in the alarm.
Maybe this is designed for 5cell NiMh batterys only?
You mean "3.3V per cell", beat1?
I'm not going to run the LiPos down until the alarm goes off anyway. I plan to run the LiPos down to about 50% at the end of the day. Then I have a reserve in case one pack or one regulator fails.
Yes I mentioned 3.3v per cell, so alarm should start at total voltage of 6.6v!
Of course you get only with charged battery's to the field and with correctly configuerd capacity you'll never need an alarm! But... "errare humanum est"....
The flashing alarm LED is to warn you that the battery voltage to the switch is getting too low and your radio gear is at risk. It is not intended to protect the LiPo. These switches were originally intended to work with NiCd and NiMH batteries.
If the switch will stay on at failure depends on the design. Most power semi conductors short out when failing. That is not desirable here as full battery voltage will then be transfered to the receiver. It is not likely that both regulators fail at the same time, so the second LiPo and regulator will continue to supply power to the receiver and servos.
please do not use spare output for cdi its not a good idea and well youve spend money on this to save your plane and then go do stupid things like adding RF/spark/HV failure/noise to your radio and then it crashes you blame this and really its the tossers on here that know shot and say hey man yeah its cool just do it i have... nar dude its uncool...
it should be mentioned that the switch itself is electronical - means it is resistant to shocks or deflective contacts (within the switch). Once it is turned on it is on and stays on whatever happens - until you turn it off of course!
No it should not come with Deans connectors. 1) friends do not let friends use deans, and 2) it can give you 5 amp, which is fine with jst or the supplied connectors. Putting high-amp connectors on a low amp application is silly and misleading. So I suggest you remove the deans connectors from your receiver batteries and try to sell them on fleabay.
NiMh receiver packs are extremely common along with LiFe. The plug on the switch is appropriate since they rated for 5A. My 50CC Yak, for example, uses two 2000mAh, 6V, NiMh packs. They can fly the plane for 1 hour before needing recharge even with 5 digital and one analog servo. Also, many people have stopped using Dean's connectors. If they had Dean's they would have to be cut off and put something else on.
I think that the square, red 2 pin JR plugs are perfect. I'm going to use my 2S packs for indoor planes to power the receiver and servos in larger models. Up until now I have gotten away with using the ESC's internal BEC, but no more safety hazard from now on.
Got mine today and I now understand your complaints about the battery plug, SteveO. The battery (input) plug is like a regular servo extension plug and does not fit any known LiPo battery. Good that I have some PRODUCT ID: AM-9017A Female JST battery pigtail at hand!
The data "4-9V" could be a typo, should possibly be "7.4-9V". If it's not a typo, then it has to be switching regulators to deliver 5.9V from a 4V battery. The text says linear cirquit, so one or the other is incorrect.
This is an exact copy of the PowerBox Sensor which costs at least 6x more. Specs are the same. I hope the quality is as gooed. Maybe i order one to compare. I use an original powerbox sensor in a 12kg turbine jet and it performs perfect. This would be a good afforable switch to use in smaller planes.
that would be quite useless indeed, if you regulate it down to 6 volt. 2 cells lipo can give you that, if you add another cell, it's power will be transformed into heat by the linear regulator. What you need then is a _switching_ ubec (AKA sbec), this one is linear AFAIK.
NO!. The switch is specified for 2S LiPo not 3S LiPo. Remember that this is really a battery backup unit for your radio equipment allowing you to power your receiver(s) from two batteries, just in case one of them fails. Why would you want to power your receiver from an 11.1V battery? it is just more weight to carry about.
Suggestion, add a charging and balancing port for each battery in the system, so you don't need to open the fuse to get access. Make them Hitec or Futaba /- plugs and then JST-XH balancers like on your batteries.
The two LEDs can get different colours (green orange and red) which depend on the voltage of the battery.
The other thing is that the switch is switching between the two batteries constantly so they get discharged the same.
So if you landed your plane and one of the LEDs is red blinking whyle the other one isn't then you can be shure that the one where the LED is blinking is broken.
I have the original one, but I think it is the same like this one, because they look VERY "similar"... *-)
vraiment pas cher type power box exelent jadore ce genre dinterupteur
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The new Failover switch you are promoting is it only good for LiPo Batteries? or can I use Nicad or NIMS??
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You hold the set switch until the red LED comes on and continue to hold it while pressing the I and II buttons to turn the batteries on/off. I noticed that connecting the batteries often brings up the switch with the battery(ies) on. Both output leads have 5.9VDC with either or both batteries connected. The unloaded voltage was a little over 6VDC. The output leads can be connected in parallel for better current flow. Just plug into two unused channels if available. There are no mounting screws included. The instuctions are OK. I don't like that the case is too easy to take apart. It just snaps together. I recommend using hinge tape to ensure it does not come apart. The battery LEDs are green when the voltage is above 5.5VDC and red below. It can flash red/green at the threshold. No charge jacks. Lead lengths are adequate.
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Thought mine was a dud (always both on) until reading Waynemia's review - thank you! Holding down the Set button while turning on and off is the secret - if turned off correctly the switches will still be Off next time it is activated. Open circuit voltage 6.1V on both outputs of mine. Would probably be happy on two five-cell NiMh packs, but flashes red or solid red on a four-cell. PeteM