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P1 High Voltage Wattmeter (100Amp)
The HobbyKing P1 High Voltage Wattmeter is a must have tool for any EP flyers tool box. The meter displays watts, amps and volts on the same screen and also features a hold function that will record and display the peak measurements taken during your testing. At this price you can have one for the work shop and one for the tool box!
This meter uses a P1 HV Current sensor that gives a more accurate reading than the less expensive PO type resistance shunt.
Specs: Voltage range: 6~50v Current range: 0~100A Display: Volt / Amp / Watt Manual Calibration Data Hold
hello!
can I use it on my hely?
I have this battery: 6S, 5.300 mah, 22,20 v*
the motor is Align 600mx*
the ESC is Align BL70G.
thank you for your attention
Hi Guys! Got my P1 and it is working fine with no problems at all. Silly question mayby. On the top right hand cornet it shows Throttle with a 3 didget no. and % Been through the manual and could not finf out what this means. Originally thought it might be throttle setting in % but it dous not differ fith the stick position. Any help will be greately appreciated.
My theory is that this is not throttle but time in hours.My P1 gradually counts up from the last nought.The instructions show a schematic for battery charging and maybe this function is meant to help in judging the state of charge.I have another wattmeter of different make which mentions this use in connection with battery charging. Ray E
volts = the amount of being supplied by your battery (there are a hi and a low reading). amps = the amount of power draw from your motor. watts = volts x amps. hope this helps!
Sorry but that's kind of wrong...amps are not the amount of power drawn from the motor.
Think of it this way, voltage is the amount of energy in each electron stored in the battery and amps are how many electrons(or charge) are coming out per second. Power is the amount of energy coming out from the battery per second or Volts * Amps. This gives an amount of energy (measured in joules) per second or joules per second - otherwise known as a Watt.
Confused. I am able to get a voltage reading but no current reading. Could I have mixed IN vs OUT. What is IN and what is OUT? Based on the instructions I have connected IN to the ESC/motor and OUT to the battery. Thanks.
I did a test to monitor the parameters of the engine 2815 Kv 4800 with a battery 3S 2200 mha 25 ~ 50 C, plus the esc HobbyKing SS Series 50-65 th Heli ESC. After work correctly observing the values **of consumption and 11.1 Volt 37 Amp maximum. the watt-meter P1 HV stopped working, is not showing anything on the display ... Please could give some guidance? , This unit is burned? During the test the connections are IN (connected to the battery) and OUT (terminal connected to the speed and speed for motor) this is correct? grateful
I would say that your wattmeter may be defective. Yes, the "in" is for the battery side and the "out" is for the ESC side. I have used mine many times and have not had any problems. On both sides, the blue wire is positive ( ) and the black wire is negative (-). Hope this helps.
yes, therefore my smile... 50V kills a horse also true, but some of us have electric bicycles and use wild combinations of voltages up to 100V (eg. 24s lipo)
Got one of these items to test new boat motor and saved from burning it out just by reading the meter and de-propping very good for the price
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Jason
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I am over all very happy with this watt/amp meter...works great as advertised up to 100a, and really that's my only complaint...wish it would go to 150a or 200a...and between 85a~100a the wires (10~12g maybe?) get hot. Would def recommend for anyone looking for an 'under 100a' meter.
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Ray Elwell
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Good product works as advertised.I make use of the small size and lower(hopefully more accurate) current readings to make a special small motor meter by soldering mini(red) JST plugs to the shortened leads.Very useful for setting up Park and indoor flyers with correct prop etc.I obviously have other meters for normal applications.
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VishalRao
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The watt meter read the voltage of my battery as 12.75 when actually it was 12.48. I did a manual calibration and did a test run of the motor. When the test finished, it again went off mark. The display is also flimsy. I suggest adding $10 and getting the Watts up meter instead, which has pretty good reviews.
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Thanks. Easy fix - I was a bit nervous (lazy) about changing the leads around. Works perfectly now. 
