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Some CA glues will work but may fog the plastic and make it look a bit smokey,the Odourless type will stop this and should stick it ok.Other than that a solvent based plastic glue will work but must be used sparingly as it melts the surface of the plastic to fuse it together,too much on thin plastic and it will warp/distort it.
Rule of thumb is that the length of the tube needs to be at least 30cm for the reduction to be 10% so the length needs to be accounted for, you can easly work it out on a calculator if your tube is shorter.
So the outlet size is not fixed, it's the ratio of reduction to length. I always thought people made fixed outlet sizes regardless of the length of the tube.
No as the length counts for the thrust generated try it out and see as I pay for a sheet and there can be a difference of anywhere up to 100grams of thrust like on my A10 warthog.
You dont realy need to go beyond the 10% reduction if you need a longer tube but the reduction is based on the inside diameter of Ducted Fan shroud you are fine to start the tube on the outside of the EDF shroud you only need to be very exact if you are into serious thrust output but otherwise just mount to the outside of shroud then reduce by 10% of the inside diameter of the shroud. If it is to confusing I can place a diagram vid with this product.
Most people use it for Thrus tubes to give greater speed to a model but less accel is the price.
if u have a vacume former (the other use for this) you would not need to ask :}
it does vac form well, i use heat lamps and watch it closely, not sure of temp. it stays clear and forms well. I usually expand the plastic first with a burst of air then suck it down, this gives an even forming.
I tried in the oven, and it have a large spectral of temp. goes from 110°*C to 230°*C without problem, don't become white... very nice, but I think a little too thin... a 4C should be better for large canopies?
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