thanks for your information!!!
Isn't it cheaper to buy hk HK15178 servo, 1servo of these costs a third of the metal gear :)
are there any (maybe a little smaller) alternatives for your battery? ( the rhino 750 is in backorder :(
Thank you in advance
Hi Karin, Use the HK15178 servos, but order a few extra because 1 or more will eventually break. If the Rhino is back-ordered then use the 850mah nano-tech. Before you order any of your gear check the swarm site (hk.rc-international.info/swarm) for buddy codes that can save you money, especially on LiPos. Cheers, EA!
Hi Karin, That's a great set-up for the Reaktor. The only possible change I would suggest would be using metal gear servos to survive the "premature landings" we all suffer from in 3D flying. Something as simple/cheap as PRODUCT ID: 9397000001 ($4.89 each) would work fine. One thing you need to be aware of is that the 850mah nano-techs are very thick, so will have to cut away foam from the top of the battery slot. The remaining foam will need to be reinforced with something like fiberglass cloth and CA glue or strong fiber tape. I use the 850mah/3S and get up to 9 minutes of hard flying from them .... love it! If you don't want to mess with all these modifications, the Rhino 750mah/3S is nearly a perfect fit for the slot and gives long flights. Cheers, EA!
thanks for your information!!! Isn't it cheaper to buy hk HK15178 servo, 1servo of these costs a third of the metal gear :) are there any (maybe a little smaller) alternatives for your battery? ( the rhino 750 is in backorder :( Thank you in advance
i forgot to say that this is going to be my first 4channel plane, I have been flying the ft old fogey but now he/she is more glue than depron :) so I think when I put the rates low I will be oke, isn't it?
Hi Karin, If the cost is a problem then go ahead and use the HK15178 servos. They will work fine, but eventually you will have to replace 1 or more of them, so order a few extra when you place your order. If the Rhino is back-ordered then use the 850mah nano-tech. Before you order any of your gear check the swarm site (hk.rc-international.info/swarm) for buddy codes that can save you money, especially on LiPos. The Reaktor will fly slow and easy with no problem, so set your rates low at first and raise them as your skills improve. Cheers, EA!
thanks for your fast reply!!!
I will order a few extra servos
I know the good buddy codes site (a must)
last question: is it a good idea to buy the rhin 610 mah 3s, they have a shorter flighttime, but when they are good, I will order a few more, till the moment they are back on stock.
Hi pinguin, It's easy to get caught up in trying to save a gram here, a gram there, but the Reaktor is very forgiving of a bit of extra weight. In fact, if you build the Reaktor at an all-up weight of less than 300g it tends to be very tail-heavy. The difference in performance and durability between the D2822/14 and the HK2612 makes the extra 15g worth the extra weight. Cheers, EA!
Hi slick, Thanks for the credit. The DMG16 servos are too big/heavy for this plane. You could make them work, but what you really should use is a good metal gear micro servo under 10g. Something as simple/cheap as PRODUCT ID: 9397000001 ($4.89 each) would work fine. Cheers, EA!
Thanks for choosing the best motor esc,batt combo and letting people know about it. After reading your comments I purchased the setup and let me tell you, This little thing flies almost like a 50cc gasser. My HK yak 55 epp was never this smooth. This thing hovers all by itself. I used 610 3s rhinos and I get about 3.30 mins flight which is ok for me. It hovers just tad below half throttle and rockets out of hovers and does flat spins and even knife edge spins with ease. Thanks.
Hi Said, 3-1/2 minute flights would be frustrating for me. Try going to a 750mah-850mah 3S to get your flight times above 5 minutes. As for the Reaktor, it is one sweet little plane. Once you get i set up properly it almost flies itself. The best thing is it's so cheap you don't worry about crashing it so you try things you would never try with a more expensive plane. You'll find that your flying skills improve dramatically because you're flying so relaxed. Cheers, EA!
I just did my second maiden hehe. This time timer was set to 4 mins. Went thru 6 610mah, 70% of the each flight was full throttle. Now each cell is around 3.8 3.9 so with 50% full throttle I should get about 4.30. I am already planning to order a spare plane and some more rhinos. This time I will go with 700mah like you said.
Hi Said, Sounds like a plan! I always have a spare Reaktor on the shelf. I've built 3 so far: Crashed the first one, wore out the 2nd one and gave it away, am close to giving my 3rd one away as it's in really rough shape. These are great planes! Cheers, EA!
Hi Roalk, Thanks for the credit. Try logging in at the top of the page or on your account home page then go back to the page you want to reply on. I've had nothing but trouble with the little pop-up log-in box you get when you hit reply. It never works the way it's supposed to. Cheers, EA!
Thanks man that's all the parts I was going to use .
Can you put a gyro on it to make it more forgiving when flying 3d and what do you think about the H1210 epp 3d ? Trying to decide on one or the other, would the bigger be better to start with ? Or the reaktor?
Hi slick, I'm not sure which plane the H1210 epp 3d is. It doesn't come up in a search, but as a first 3D plane I would recommend the Reaktor over all others. It floats along at walking speed if you're just learning but can do neck-snapping 3D when you're ready. DO NOT put a gyro on a 3D plane! It's totally contrary to what you want a 3D plane to do, which is wild gyrations that you are inputting. The gyro will just be fighting you the whole time. Cheers, EA!
Hi slick, You haven't said what motor/LiPo you plan to use so it's hard to recommend a prop. Having gone thru various combos of motor/prop/LiPo, the best set-up I've found is a D2822/14 (PRODUCT ID: D2822-141450) with a 8x3.8SF (PRODUCT ID: TP_8x3.8) on a 3S LiPo. Cheers, EA!
Hi fly, The plane is designed to be completely assembled/glued, but the fit of the parts (i.e. wing to fuselage) is tight enough that you could do a bit of re-engineering to be able to remove the wing and horizontal stab. I've thought about doing the same thing, but haven't tried it yet. Cheers, EA!
If that was in Spain the person who receive the credit even if this one wasn't for him, he won't say anithing...
I have not found the answer, mi pc works really slow and there are thousands of aswers from EA, also I'm spanish and I read english relly slow...if you found the answer to my question, can you send it to me?
Hola doddy, hay 2 maneras de extender los cables de los servos. Usted puede comprar extensiones plug'n'play (ejemplo: IDENTIFICACIÓ*N DEL PRODUCTO: AM2001-15x10 trabajará* para el Reaktor timó*n / ascensor) que basta con conectar el servo a. Vienen en diferentes longitudes y son muy baratos, 10 veces por menos de $ 3. La otra forma es comprar prolongaciones largas y corte / empalme / soldadura / ellas retrá*ctil tubo de plomo servo para hacer exactamente la longitud que desee. Para los novatos, la extensió*n plug'n'play son probablemente el camino a seguir, ya que pueden ser utilizados de nuevo en otros planos / servos. Cheers, EA!
م*ر*ح*ب*ا* Mar11،* ن*ح*ن* ا*ل*ق*ي*ا*م* ب*ه* م*ع* ك*ر*و*ز* و*ف*ي* ا*ل*م*م*ل*ك*ة* ا*ل*م*ت*ح*د*ة* ع*ل*ى* م*د*ى* www.link ا*ل*ق*ا*د*م*ة* 2. ل*د*ي*ك* ب*ع*ض* ا*ل*د*خ*و*ل* إ*ل*ى* www.link م*و*ث*و*ق* ب*ه*ا* أ*خ*ي*ر*ا*. ا*ل*ب*ق*ا*ء* ع*ل*ى* ا*ت*ص*ا*ل*،* Shukran, EA
If this is total nonsense you can thank Google Translate!
Hi Mar11, I'm not sure if anything of my comment above made sense, but I was already in Google Translate answering Doddy's question and noticed the arabic option. What I wrote was that we're in the UK now and I finally have some decent internet access. Then's HK's site scrambled the arabic that I pasted into the reply. So if what you read sounds like the ravings of a lunatic, my apologies to you. Cheers, EA!
Hi Mar11, If it was all one order you should have gotten everything in one box. If so, contact HK customer support for an explanation. Cheers, EA! P.S. I can't wait to get back home so I can fly. Traveling is nice and it's great spending time with our son in London and other family in Scotland, but I miss hopping in the car with my Reaktor to kill an hour at the soccer field.
Hi EA, well no they are in two seperate orders the one with the reactor still having that 1900kv stupid motor on back order and 8x4 prop also BO, anyway ..yeah i know what you mean ..man nothing is like the fun of flying..esp after long time !
Hi Mar11, You can go to your account page and cancel the back-ordered item from the order. HK will credit the money to your Bonus Points for use on a future order. At least the plane will get shipped so you don't have to keep waiting. Cheers, EA!
Then dump the BO props and order different ones. The best SF 3D props I've gotten from HK are the TP series. The one you want is PRODUCT ID: TP_8x3.8 and there's plenty in stock. BTW, have you always been so fluent in English, because I have no sense of the arabic in you when you write? Cheers, EA!
thanks for the props u offered, will cancel my stupid BO items..but are these props you offered well balanced? hehe regarding my english thanks for the compliment its just that i had some good education :) and been all over the world on Business trips :)
These props are far better than the 5x for $3 variety. They arrive perfectly balance with just the right combination of stiffness near the hub and flex near the tips that they don't break, flutter, resonate, etc. like the cheap ones. Cheers, EA!
I just ordered one with the same spec as EA recommended. :) With 4xHXT900 can you guys tell me how much servo extension wire I need for the rudder and elevator? Assuming the wire length should be enough for the ailerons.
Hi Roalk, There's 2 ways to extend the leads on servos. You can buy plug'n'play extensions (example: PRODUCT ID: AM2001-15x10 will work for the Reaktor rudder/elevator) that you just plug your servo into. They come in various lengths and are very cheap, 10x for less than $3. The other way is to buy long extension leads and cut/splice/solder/shrink-tube them to servo lead to make exactly the length you want. For newbies, the plug'n'play extension are probably the way to go because they can be used over again on other planes/servos. Cheers, EA!
Can anyone suggest a good 2S setup for this airplane? This will be my first 3D and I don't need crazy performance ... but maybe a motor/esc combo that I can run at 2S for a while and switch to 3S (different battery and prop) at a later date. Or, maybe I should just start at 3S? Your ideas/input is welcome. Thanks
I have a HobbyKing Donkey ST2004-1550kv and an ss25-30 amp esc, I'm hoping this set up will work with this plane on 850 3s. Perhaps I could run a 7x4 sf prop to keep the amps down. Any suggestions would be helpful as I'm a heli guy. I was also eyeballing the sbach epp, but I'd probably need a bigger motor for that to run it properly.
Hi Terry, It sounds like you're a heli guy looking to get into aerobatic/3D planes. The ST2004-1550kv would work on the Reaktor, but only for sport/mild-3D flying. The general rule of thumb for full 3D planes is you want motor thrust to be at least 150%, preferably 200%, of all-up plane weight. A 3D plane should be able to hover at 1/2-2/3 throttle. If you're choosing between the Reaktor and the Sbach 3D EPP (same manufacturer), go with the Reaktor. I own both and the Reaktor is far superior in its overall flight characteristics. The Sbach has a tendency to tip stall on high-G turns and just doesn't fly 3D as well as the Reaktor. Cheers, EA!
Hey thanks for the reply.
I just maidened my fidget yesterday with the D2822/14 Brushless Outrunner 1450kv and the first thing I noticed is it could have used more jam. Ill save the donkies for some foamy builds, get the reaktor,a D2822/14 and possibly swap motors with the fidget. Hey hobbyking, you should hire this guy lol!
Hi Terry, Thanks for that! The D2822/14 is perfect for the Reaktor. It's the motor I ended up using after 3-4 others that just didn't have the snap I was looking for. The D2822/14 is smooth, powerful, and bullet-proof. I've thrashed mine and it's still running great. Cheers, EA!
Hi ASCLEPION33, The D2822/14 is a great choice for the Reaktor. It needs a 18A-20A ESC, my preference being the HK BlueSeries 20A. HXT500 servos are okay for the rudder/elevator, but you need at least 2 HXT900's for the ailerons. I prefer metal gear servos all around because they can take the pounding of 3D better than plastic gear servos. The ailerons are very large and exert lots of force on the servos. For a LiPo, you will want at last a 750mah/3S to get the right combination of flight time and plane balance. The Rhino 750/3S (see PRODUCT ID: R750-20-3) fits the battery slot perfectly and balances the plane just right for 3D. Cheers, EA!
Hi ASCLEPION33, Thanks for the credit. Honestly, I haven't found a plane that I enjoy flying more than the Reaktor. I've owned nitro and electric aerobatic/3D planes costing as much as $1000 (Edge540, etc.) that didn't fly as well as the Reaktor. I have 6 3D planes at the moment, but the Reaktor is the one I fly 90% of the time. If you want a bigger plane, Have a look at the Yak55 EPP 3D. It's made by the same manufacturer and flies like the Reaktor, only the moves aren't as lightning quick. Cheers, EA!
is it a good choice for a plane after flying the ft old fogey with 3s (fast!!), he is now hanging into a tree :( (the wind grrr.!)
good choice for a first 4 ch plane?
flying with the ft old fogey is to simple:)
Hi Paddy, Video looks great! The nice thing with the Reaktor is you can keep tweaking it and it just gets better. Looks like you're just about right with the balance, just a bit tail-heavy. When you mount the D2822/14 the extra 14g on the nose will make it just about perfect ... not nose-heavy or tail-heavy, but completely neutral and then you'll really see an improvement in the way it flies. Cheers, EA!
Hi Paddy, I'll make this quick because I'm in a MacDonalds in Aqaba, Jordan at the moment. The CG range is specified in the instructions. Measure from the leading edge of the wing at the fuselage and mark the CG range each side. Balance the plane with your fingertips under the wing with all gear in place (LiPo, prop, etc.) Plane should balance level with your fingers somewhere between the marks. Towards the rear mark means tail-heavy. Cheers, EA!
Hi Lucas, I converted my last Reaktor to a single 12g metal gear servo because I couldn't find a good 6g-8g metal gear servo for the normal dual servo set-up. It involves mounting the servo into the bottom of the fuselage with a long CF servo arm sticking out each side. CF linkage rods to the ailerons. That plane is still flying but it pretty battle-scarred so I'll build a new one soon. I'll probably go back to dual servos on the next one, as a few new choices for small MG servos have been added to HK. Cheers, EA!
Hi Lucas, Thanks for the credit. Yes, those were among the ones I'm considering. Much more concerned with toughness than anything else, as the ailerons on the Reaktor are huge and really exert a lot of force on the servo gears when you belly flop the plane (which I do often). Cheers, EA!
Hi Mar11, Guess where I am? Sitting here using the free wifi at Starbucks in Dubai Mall. Regarding the HK2612, it all wears out. The bearings get dodgy causing more drag on the motor causing more heat in the windings, etc. etc. I would get about a month of daily flying out of a motor before it started going bad. Have 4 dead ones in my salvage motor box. Never again! Cheers, EA!
Hi Mar11, Dubai is incredible. So modern and grand! The Metro is brilliant. We went to the gold/spice souks this morning and that was a pretty wild experience. Sort of in your face with all the people shouting to get you into their shops, but an interesting morning that we will always remember. Tomorrow we board our ship at Port Rashid and head off toward the Suez Canal. Thanks for thinking of us, Steve
I have the reaktor with HK2612 Brushless Outrunner Motor and the battery I use is nano-thech 460mah 25-40c it is very power full battery but it does not take more than 4 min to discharge... I need to know which is the best battery to fit the reactor even if it is not so powerfull but can have more fun flying this plane for some more time not 4min only !
Hi Kevin, I've owned 3 Reaktors and have tried lots of different combinations of motor/LiPo. With a 460mah (3S?) you're not only fighting the short flight times but the plane is probably flying very tail-heavy and wants to balloon up with the slighest touch of up elevator. You can safely use a larger capacity LiPo and the plane will fly longer and with better handling. The batteries I would suggest are the Rhino 610mah/3S (PRODUCT ID: R610-20-3) or the Rhino 750mah/3S (PRODUCT ID: R750-20-3). Both will fit the slot on the Reaktor, but you might need to widen the slot a few mm for the 750mah. These LiPos are frequently available even cheaper with a buddy code so check the swarm site (hk.rc-international.info/swarm) before you order. Cheers, EA!
Hi Kevin, One other point I want to touch on is the HK2612 motor. I have 3 of these in my ****/salvage motor box. I averaged 1 every 3 months until I finally gave up and went to a bigger/tougher motor. When yours burns/wears out (and it will!), order a D2822/14 (PRODUCT ID: D2822-141450) as the replacement. It's only 12g heavier, but the punch is unbelievable and it has been bullet-proof on my Reaktor. Cheers, EA!
Hi Kevin, Thanks for the credit. I love the nano-tech 850/3S. I just ordered 6 more and the new ones give me over 9 minutes flight time with the D2822/14 motor. I used to use the Rhino 750, but wanted more flight time. The 850 didn't weigh any more so I went with them. The only problem is they are very thick so you have to cut the slot to fit them, leaving a very thin area of foam at the top. I reinforced the foam with a strip a fiberglass tape and CA and it has survived nicely. The 850s are almost always available with a buddy code. Check the swarm site (hk.rc-international.info/swarm) before you order. Cheers, EA!
Just finish the build today, here my setup :
-D2822-14 motor, 15-18ESC, Turnigy 1800A Servo 8g x4, nano 3S 950, TGY 8x3.8SF.
Not really happy with the servo ordered 6 they have all some space in gears the result is all the controls are not rigid.
I will try some flights with them but maybe go back to HXT900 later.
Final weight is 310g (look really light finaly) but i'm very noise heavy with current battery slot, i will cut new slot later.
Hi Mathieu, At 310g with that LiPo/motor you should be within the recommended CG range. One thing I would recommend is replace the prop adapter that comes with the motor with a 3.17mm prop saver. Learning/flying 3D involves a lot of "premature landings" which will be hard on the motor/mount/prop using the rigid adapter. I fly the same motor/LiPo and the plane flies like it's on rails yet will do every 3D move (hover, flat spins, tumbles, etc.) you throw at it. Good luck! Cheers, EA!
Yeah the shaft is too long and without prop saver it will be hard but i forgot to order one and now it's backorder on it.
But 180W is not too much for a prop saver ?
Do you know if prop saver 317MPRPSVR fits fine on TGY 8x3.8SF ?
Hi Mathieu, The rating on that motor is 160W, but you can get up to approx 175W out of it with a 8x3.8 SF prop on a 3S LiPo. I'm using the 317MPRPSVR prop saver, no problems, but you need to use 2 o-rings to hold the prop tight this motor because of the power, otherwise it wobbles/vibrates. I always double o-ring my motors anyways because when one breaks from age (as they often do) you don't lose the prop mid-flight. I'm sure this method has saved me many props and a few crashes. The TGY 8x3.8SF comes with adapter bushings, so it will fit the pro-saver. I use the TP 8x3.9SF props which cost a little more, but are beautifully made and balanced. Cheers, EA!
Hi Mar11, I'm not a big fan of hot glue, but I know lots of people who swear by it. On these EPP planes I usually use CA for low stress areas, small cracks, or re-attaching small pieces of foam that break off. In the high stress area like the motor mount or wing/fuselage joint I usually use 5min epoxy because it's more flexible. Cheers, EA!
Hi Mar11, It's partly to do with how thick it goes on (weight and appearance), but also it doesn't flow/absorb into the tiny pores/cracks of the material. It just sits on the surface which is why it pulls away easier. My background is mechanical engineering, so I tend to test things just out of curiosity. Take some small pieces of s**** foam and put a small blob of hot glue between them. Then do the same thing with epoxy. When you pull them apart, the hot glue will usually peal away with just a thin layer of foam stuck to it. The expoxied pieces will be harder to pull apart and will have a thick ragged layer of foam stuck to it because it gets more "bite" into the material at the micro level. Cheers, EA!
I finally put a prop saver with a GWS 8x4.3
Pull 13.5A but still enough for good 3D on 3S.
Maiden flight was horrible i have set max throw everywhere with 70% expo but i have too much throw on aileron for first flight, i hit the road 20s after take off. Was lucky to only break the EPP down the ESC, took me 2min to repair.
Second flight was done with triple rate, finally flew with 60% rate and 50% expo on ailerons, 100%/70% on rudder and 60%/30% on elevator.
Still a bit difficult to fly because i was used to my piaget but the plane has a lot of potential and also had only 50m range because of bad receiver.
I'm still a bit noise heavy but it's maybe fine for first flights.
Had some hard landings but didn't break landing gear, hope it will last until i can catch it.
Will do another report after some more flights.
Hi Mathieu, This may sound silly, but did you program in the exponential the right way. I know that on Futaba/Hitec you put in negative exponential to soften the stick response around the middle. If you put in positive exponential it does just the opposite ... makes the sticks crazy sensitive around the middle. The fact that you had to lower your exponential settings sounds like this is the problem. Cheers, EA!
Second flight was better, no more range problem.
I was more confortable to do some test.
My expo is correct, i'm now at 70% expo on aileron, 50% rudder and 30% elevator.70% of max throw on aileron, 100% on rudder and 60% on elevator, it will still change in next flights.
Even by enlarging battery slot at the back i'm still noise heavy, i need to find a way to do some test without cutting a new slot directly.
Next update soon.
2 more flights today, i have a hard time triming the plane.I'm still not satisfied, it looks like i'm noise heavy because i always need to put some elevator but i tried cg back to 100mm from the leading edge still the same problem.
Even inverted i need to put elevator (down this time).
I really need to find what is wrong :)
Thanks for the fast reply.. I have another problem with the propeller. When I hold the plane with my hands and set to full throttle the prop goes out ! This is the first time that I have the motor with elastic bands . Is it normal? :) this is my spec
motor - HobbyKing 2612 Brushless Outrunner 1900KV
prop - HobbyKing 8x4 Propellers (5Pcs/Bag)
Hi KM, The HK2612 motor is more powerful than it looks and the o-rings that come with it are too thin. Use 2 o-rings, one over the other, to keep the prop on tight. The added benefit of this is when one breaks from age (and they always do), the prop isn't lost mid-flight. I double o-ring all my motors and it has saved me many props. Cheers, EA!
Thanks for your reply,,, I noticed from other models and motors that the HK2612 has 2 grap screws where the o-ring is secured, but in other models the grap screw has like a head at the end of it so it is more difficult that the o ring slips off.
Hi KM, Thanks for the credit. The straight setscrews work okay, but I usually replace them with screws that have heads because the o-rings pop loose and get lost when you bounce the nose of the plane and the prop folds sideways. Having heads on the screws prevents this from happening. The screws on this motor are M2.5 which are available from HK or any fully equipped hobby shop. Cheers, EA!
I have solved the problem
1 - use both supplied o-rings
2 - bought an o-ring more thicker from auto shop and it worked perfectly using only one
3 - to be 100% change the grap screw to screw.
Now waiting for wind to stop to make the test fly. Thanks guys for your support
Today First reaktor take off.. Very stable plane used
HobbyKing 2612 Brushless Outrunner 1900KV prop - HobbyKing 8x4 and NANO-TECH 460mah 25-40c battery..
CG - neutral.. fast straight in sky at full thrott// .. very nice and stable plane ! very good!
<1>At a point the prop goes off. so now I am going to use the M2.5 screws.
<2>The "back tire * carbon fiber rod" is damaged with in 3 takeoff from tarmac . Any Suggestion ?
<3> Battery drained instant ... no warnings ..like
slow speed /// just stopped the prop // any suggestion ??
Thanks .. overall very nice and stable plane .. suggest to everyone .. and I think is good even for trainer if setting up small movement traws//
Hi KM, Problem 1) The 8x4 prop puts a lot of load on the rubber rings, so use 2 and screws with heads. Should be okay. Problem 2) The landing gear is weak and won't hold up unless every landing is perfect. I took one of the front landing gear rods and made 2 landing skids from it, one front and one back, so the plane just skids in on its belly. Problem 3) Use at least a 600mah/3S and change your ESC settings to lowest voltage cut-off with gradual power-down. You've seen how well the plane flies, so you just need to tweak it to work out the little bugs. Cheers, EA!
Hello ElectricAussie. Thanks For your reply. About the landing gear.. Did you removed the front wheels ? Can you please share photo of landing gear ?
What largest battery do you suggest for this plane >
Hi KM, I removed the landing gear, cut one of the leg rods into 2 pieces, one about an inch longer than the other, and inserted them into the fuselage (w/CA) angled sharply rearward. As for LiPos, I started out with 600mah, stepped up to 750mah, now using 850/950mah 3S. A bit heavy, but the plane still flies great. The Rhino 750mah/3S is a great choice for capacity/weight/fit/price with this plane. You can see my plane in detail in the video I posted. Just click on the Video tab above and look for "Reaktor maiden flight". Cheers, EA!
Short term-hold them tight and tie a simple knot (hitch I think its called? The type that is one cross of the strings) and while still holding it tight apply CA, hot glue, or some sort of suitable glue.
Long term- replace the strings with carbon fiber rods with z-bends that are wrapped and glued or shrink wrapped
Hi KM, The pull-pull thread linkage for the rudder/elevator is a real pain and most people have replaced it with single pushrod linkages. The best way to get the thread tight is to tie off one side, then stretch the other tight and mark it where it would pass thru the servo arm. Then remove the servo arm from the servo and tie off the other side about 1mm-2mm shorter than the mark you made. Then very carefully replace the servo arm on the servo. This way the whole system is stretched and should remain tight. Cheers, EA!
Hi sharon, The Reaktor will fly great at any weight up to 375g. The 250g-290g "flying weight" shown above is nonsense and the Reaktor would be under-powered and tail-heavy with any set-up in that weight range. I'm currently flying my 3rd Reaktor and the weight is up around 370g. It still floats along at walking speed and will do every 3D move. With the D2822/14 and a 8x3.8 prop you'll get 650g-675g of thrust. Cheers, EA!
thanks mate for the info.. well i had the same case with by bixlers.. i got 3 for more or less same reasons...my 1st 3d plane was the mx2 .. i crashed cause i didnt dail any dual rates lol.. but is good.. and now i ordered this one.. what do u think .. thanks!
Hi Mar11, If you've been flying the Bixlers for a while you're probably ready to move up to a fully aerobatic plane. The Reaktor is a great choice because it doesn't have any bad habits (tip stall, etc.). It just goes where you point it and does what you tell it to do, but you have to be thinking/flying it all the time ... no daydreaming! My advice is set it up with 75% of the recommended throws on the control surfaces. The Reaktor responds really, really quick on the ailerons and elevators. Using the full throws at first will just get you into trouble. Set your radio up with at least 60% negative exponential on ailerons, elevator, rudder (if you have a programable radio) to make the stick response really soft around the middle. I never use dual rates, but if you're more comfortable with it then use them until you get used to the plane. Good luck! By the way, my wife and I will be in Dubai for 2 days in mid-April. Any suggestions on what sights are a must-see? Cheers, EA!
hey man thanks for the advice.. nice to know that your coming.. if you really wanna see flying stuff you can visit the RC airfield * nad alsheeba in dubai.. amazing show.. you can fly your plane too.. you can give me a call and we'll meet...for sure youll visit Burj khalifa the highest in the world and check out the fountains and all.. you can also go for skying in emirates mall ( really nice ) skying in the summer .. enjoy my mob is 0 0 9 7 1 5 0 3 9 3 1 9 7 1
Hi Mar11, Thanks for the sightseeing advice. I'll have to pass on the flying, as we'll be doing all the tourist stuff before catching a cruise ship at Port Rashid. Our son lives in London, so we always try to fit a proper holiday into our visits to see him. We're cruising from Dubai to Rome, then fly to London. We've never been to Dubai, so our 2 days there will be pretty full on. I'll carry your phone number with me just in case. Cheers, EA!
Hi Sharon, The D2822/14 is a great choice for the Reaktor. It only needs a 20A ESC, but if you already have the 25A Plush it will be fine. The HXT500 servos are okay for the rudder/elevator, but you would be better off with HXT900 for the ailerons. They're very large and exert lots of force on the servos. For a LiPo, you will want at last a 750mah/3S to get the right combination of flight time and plane balance. The Rhino 750/3S (see PRODUCT ID: R750-20-3) fits the battery slot perfectly and balances the plane just right for 3D. Cheers, EA!
Hi EA! Sorry, i just asked you because i saw that you understand about motors/props... but i was asking a setup for the HUMMER EPP 3D Plane (094000002) not for Reaktor. I know it`s not the right place to ask you but i don`t know how to PM you, so i`m using this chat... The Hummer seems to be a good choice for 3D foam plane too and i`m plannig to have both in the future, so i`m trying to find the best setup for each. You already helped me with the Reaktor but sice you have two of the motors that i`ve listed, i think u could help me saying wich one (D2830-11plus prop? vs AX-2210N plus prop??) would provide the max flight time in a 3D 3s setup (battery ZIPPY Compact about 1500-1800mah). Cheers!
Hi Henrique, Sorry I didn't read your question carefully. I thought you were asking about the Reaktor. The Hummer is very similar in size/weight to my Yak54 EPP 3D and my Sbach 342 EPP 3D. AUW will actually come in at approx. 550g so you want at least 850g-900g of thrust for 3D style flying. You want the plane to be able to hover at between 1/2-2/3 throttle. I'm using the D2830-11 (D2830-111000) on my Sbach 342 and absolutely love the motor. It's light, smooth running, powerful, and cheap. I would go with it before the (AX-2210N) or (9031000008). Cheers, EA!
Hi Henrique, Forgot to add prop recommendation. I'm currently flying the Sbach 342 with the D2830-11 (Prod. ID: D2830-111000) on a 3S with 9x6SF prop. Only drawing 18A, so may switch to a 10x4.7SF prop which would add more thrust and push the amps up to approx. 21A-22A which is the max spec for this motor. Cheers, EA!
Hi EA! Can you help me to choose a motor & prop for this plane(094000002)?? I was thinking about these ones: (AX-2210N), (9031000008) and (D2830-111000). Which would provide the max flight time for 3D??
Hi Henrique, I own the D2830-11 and the AX-2210N. Both are good motors, but too heavy and too power hungry for the Reaktor. I don't know much about the DST-1200, but it's also too heavy. The recommended motor for the Reaktor (HK2612) is only 24g. The motors you're looking at are twice that weight. I would still recommend the D2822/14 (36g) with a 8x3.8SF prop. It has all the punch you need for 3D without adding a lot of extra motor/LiPo weight. Hovers the Reaktor at 1/2 throttle and verticals are rocket shots. Cheers, EA!
Hi EletricAussie, I`ve eliminated all the other motors after reading your answer... except the FC 28-22 1200kv 39g (FC2822) that seems to be more powerfull in a 10x4.7 SF prop. Have you tryed this motor?? Cheers!
Hi henrique, Thanks for the credit. I own the FC2822 (2 of them) which I ordered after reading the same specs you're referring to. I was surprised at how much power they had, but they are heavier than the 39g shown in the listing. More like 46g, which combined with how much farther out from the nose they sit was just enough to throw off the balance of the Reaktor and make it fly more like a sport plane than a 3D. They're a good motor, but I still prefer the D2822/14. Cheers, EA!
What will be the difference between flying a 2s and a 3s setup???
Which motor would be the best for each setup??
HEXTRONIC 24g: 1300kv (HXM2730-1300) / 1500kv (HXM2730-1500) / 1700kv (HXM2730-1700)*
2205C 1400kv 28g (2205C-1400) / C2404 1900kv 20,9g (C2404-1900)*
FC 39g: 28-22 1200kv (FC2822) / 28-12 1534kv (FC2812)*
CF 28-05 1600kv 26g (FC2805-1600)*
TURNIGY D2822/14 1450kv 38g (D2822-141450).
I think i`ve listed all the good motors for this bird, now i have to decide between them xD
Hi henrique, I'm currently flying my third Reaktor. I read your list and recognize at least 3 motors that I've used on the Reaktor and rejected because they just didn't have the punch I wanted for 3D. I would absolutely recommend the D2822/14 1450kv over all the others on the list. I have been running this motor daily for 6 months and it has never skipped a beat. 1/2 throttle hover, rocket verticals, and tough as nails. Too many people get caught up in trying to save a few grams in motor weight at the cost of performance. The Reaktor can carry the extra weight with ease and the extra power makes it an awesome 3D bird. Cheers, EA!
Hi henrique, I forgot to answer the other part of your question. If you're going to be flying 3D, you'll want to go with a 3S set-up which is perfect for the D2822/14 1450kv motor. Anything from 600mah/3S up to 800mah/3S will give you enough power for all 3D moves and flight times of 5 min. or more. Cheers, EA!
Hi Self, The linkage set-up that comes with the kit for the elevator/rudder is a pull-pull nylon thread affair. It will work, but it's fiddly and prone to get loose/sloppy over time. A single 1.5mm CF rod each for the rudder/elevator is the best way to go. They're precise, tough, and fairly inexpensive. If you order them from HK they will add a protective packaging box that will run up the shipping cost, so you're better off looking for the rods at your local hobby shop. Cheers, EA!
EA you got cencored before I could read it, about the only way you can get away with saying some things is toss in some odd spaces or dashes, or the old stand by go to the forum (top of the page) and leave a message to name.
Hi tractor, I didn't say anything inappropriate so Don't know what they censored. I had thanked you for your comment. It's funny that after 30 years of flying RC my all time favorite plane is a 30 dollar foamie. Toss it in the car and hit the local soccer field. Home in under an hour. It just doesn't get any better than this. Cheers, EA!
Great flying little airplane. The thicker foam and carbon fiber keep the plane stiff enough not to twist the tail in mid-air as a lot of these little flat epp planes do. With a Turnigy AE-20 ESC, C20 2050kv motor, 9x6 EP prop, OrangeRC 6 chan reciever, 4 Hextronix HXT500 servos, a Nano-Tech 460ma battery and no landing gear mine is 300 grams and will hover at 1/2 throttle. I initially flew it with out the 'winglet' (yep, that's what they call it in the instructions) on the turtle deck and it flew very well, but wouldn't do an inverted flat spin. Adding the winglet made the plane pull one with ease, as well as knife edge effortlessly. The plane is very responsive to the control surfaces and a true joy to fly. Instructions were clear and build time was just over 4 hours. NOTE: The rudder and elevator use a string pull-pull setup, they send you some silky, lightweight cotton string. Frustrating to build and very cheesy. I used 2mm carbon fiber and some wire from the hobby shop to make push rods on mine. By placing the ESC all the way forward and looping the motor wires out of the way, I was able to slip the reciever into the pre-cut slot, place the battery into it's pre-cut slot, and have a perfect CG without the addition of any weight. Using the C20 and AE-20 ESC provides 6-8 min flight times with minimal heat buildup even in aggressive flying (Battery slightly warm but it's nested in the foam so that's not unexpected). The thick foam is very durable, I haven't crash tested min
This planes a 2cells li-po and you better use a 800mah battery, as for the motor the best one you could use is the HobbyKing 2612 Brushless Outrunner 1900KV(as suggested) and as for the ESC the TURNIGY Plush 10amp and 4 htx 500 it is my configuration and it is perfect :)
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Fantastic plane!!! Just finished the build and will fly tomorrow if the wind cooperates. Overall, this has been the best quality foamie I've come across in terms of design, fit, and finish. Every part was straight and fit like a glove. I have several of the Red Eagle foam planes and none of them compare in terms of stiffness and straightness of the individual parts or finished plane. The only complaint I have is the way the landing gear is attached. Flimsy little ply plates came loose the first time I flexed the the landing gear. I replaced them with 25mm x 35mm ply plates epoxied on and the landing gear is plenty strong. The recommended motor (HK2612) has plenty of power with 3S batts. Using a Rhino 610mah 3S, the plane weighs exactly 300g and literally leaps vertically with this motor/battery combo on a 8x4 prop. I file a flight evaluation later. Thanks HK for another great plane! Cheers!
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Okay, here's the flight report I promised. No wind and perfect flying conditions ... I'M IN LOVE WITH THIS PLANE!!! Trimmed out with just a few clicks of Elev/Aileron and flew like it was on rails. Very stiff with no noticeable flex at all. Hovers with almost no inputs, will turn 180 within a 1 metre space, flies same inverted as upright. Would do every 3D trick in the book if I knew how, yet it's just as happy to fly general pattern style. No tip stall at high or low speed. Landings can be as slow as you like, as it just settles down flat when air speed gets too low. Hand launches straight and true with no torque roll. When word gets out about what a bargain this plane is, HK won't be able to order enough stock. Cheers!
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A quick final note on some minor tweaks to my Reaktor. The little winglet on top is flimsy and flutters at high speed, so I added a 100mm long piece of .5mmx3mm CF strip to the top. Very stiff now and seems to improve the handling, especially when inverted. I've been switching between 3S Rhino 610mah and 750mah batts to see which weight/CG works best. The 750mah battery gives nice long flight times and perfect CG balance. AUW is 315g, but the plane still floats down to a crawl without losing lift and the extra power means awesome 3D capability. Cheers!