Turnigy® dlux ESCs have set a new bench mark in quality and performance. Each ESC uses a twin PCB design separating the motor power supply & MCU. This design allows for optimum component layout on each PCB and provides the ideal configuration for heat dissipation and thermal efficiency. Both PCBs are enclosed in a full aluminum heat sink casing to ensure maximum heat dispersion. All Turnigy dlux ESCs can be programmed via a programing card or by transmitter. Clear and easy to understand instructions are included.
Spec. Max Cont Current: 120A Max Burst Current: 140A BEC: N/A LiPo: 6~12S NiMH: 16~36cells Weight: 129grams Max RPM (2-pole): 200,000rpm Size: 60 x 33 x 23mm Motor Plug: Female 4mm bullet Connector Battery Plug: Nil Features: Spark Eliminator Lead with 2mm Plug
Features. Extremely low internal resistance Very low operation temperature Over temperature protection APEC MoSfets (Taiwain)
Programming Options. Battery Type: 6S~12S Forward/Reverse Soft Start LV Cut off Type (Ignore, Reduce Power, Stop Motor) LV Cut off setting (2.5~3.5v in 0.1v increments) Timing (Auto, Very Low, Low, Normal, High, Very Hgh) Switching (8,16kHz) Factory Restore Active RPM Control: On/Off (Governor Mode)
Default factory settings. Brake: off Battery: LiPo Auto Detect Low Voltage: 3.2v (power down motor) Timing: Auto Frequency: 8KHz
Note: Programming box now available, check the related items below.
The hardware is as follows:
- Motor Turnigy Helidrive SK3 series, 560kV, 10 pole.
- 12S LiPo
- Turnigy dlux 120HV
- Outrage fusion 50 without main blades (safety is first)
- Programming card
I tested with all combination settings, but unfortunately can not get the soft start (heli turns itself 180º* at start). The starting is very very hard!
Also, both controller and motor becomes very hot at not load. It seems the High timing setting with 16kHz is the best? Also tested all combinations...
Please, some hint will be welcomed!
My Dlux 120 Ampere do not work with the turnigy 6374 motor. The motor always change fast direction and start up. Befor it worked perfect with the dlux 80 Ampere but it gets warm. so i bought the 120 Ampere controller and i set the timing set the Lipos i try everything but the motor start up very hard and change directions !
Big electrics virgin so please be gentle with me :-)
I've just taken mine out of the pack and have noticed the
anti spark lead what do I connect it to? I'll be running 10cells so I probably need it.
Thanks in advance John
I ordered two of these. Both had an issue with sustaining the power. I run up the motor, and after about two seconds, it starts to die off. I had it programmed for the number of cells desired and tried it on four cell and six cell and got the same issue. Anyone gave this problem? How do I fix it.
I am using this esc on a 115mm edf with 120mm fan drive n 10S. motor spins up perfectly below 50% throttle, if I go above say 60% it runs smooth for about 1 minute and then start oscillating/ pulsing. I have used the programmimng box to set cell count etc and it still does it.
do I need to use "high" timing or what?
the motor specs should say what the timing is suppose to be set at, but most likely it needs to be low. the timing correlates to the pole count of the motor, more poles higher timing, the poles are how many magnets in the motor. but i think the issue is your motor and fan are pulling to much power. hook up a watt meter to your power system and check that the amps are not exceeding what the esc can handle. if the fan is pulling more amps than 120 then either get a bigger esc or use a smaller battery.
I need help with this speed controller, I have it connected up to a Turnigy SK3 Fandrive 3659 1900kv motor, with a six cell battery. What settings should I have on he speed controller, ATM it give power for about 1 minute and then cuts in and out, the speed controller gets very hot.
Using 10S Lipo, Hitec transmitter, and EasyMatch 1.60 motor:
I set TX to reverse channel 3 as specified
If I power up with throttle (ch 3) at 100%, the ESC goes into program mode, as expected.
HOWEVER (the problem)- when I power up with throttle at 0%, I get nothing. If I set my sub-trim down to about -30, then I get the beeps suggesting that we are at zero.
But, I can't move throttle up to get the motor to spin. Instead, I have to keep DECREASING the sub-trip to -35..-40, etc... to get the motor to spin.
This is not expected behavior.
I have tried reversing the CH3, but this only puts it in program mode at 0% throttle.
Any suggestions as to fixing the problem
I had a similar problem. I am using a Futaba radio. I had to reverse the throttle channel. Then make sure the endpoint adjustments are turned up all the way for up and down on the throttle. Then I used the subtrim to lower the throttle trim to make it arm the esc. After all that it works fine.
Hi guys: I purchased this 120 amp esc to use in 700 innova kds with align mx 700 motor. After 2 and half minutes in the fliht the tailstarts oscilating as if the batteries are flat but batteries still show 74% full and 3.9V I even brought the cutoff viltage down to 2.8 V but does not help want to fly at least 6 MINUTES any advise on settings I can change to rectify problem. Also tested with align mx700 motor does the same. think it is a 15 pinion
This is due to the fact that if you are consuming too much current and the voltage drops too much speed cuts, you need the programmer to eliminate this espeed, give you the low shear stress to a minimum.
Yes I do have the programming box. Can the problem also be related to a to high head speed. I think the pinion was 16 tooth and because I am new to electric heli setup got the formula to work out head speed only a week ago and saw that it was close to 3400 rpm. Ouch!!! ordered other pinion 10 tooth from rediheli and got a 450 kv neu 1915h/1.5y motor cause the 560 kv seems like are way too fast for 44v setup. Thanks for the reply. Please reply again?
Hey there, big problem...
need to set the timing to very low or low as it is shown in the description. HOW TO DO THAT ?
Via remote there is just (automatic, medium , and high ) same with the programming box. :(
Is taht all ? IF yes, HK your description for the timing options is bull**** !!!!
PLEASE HELP SOON !!!
yes but drive it slow or normal to test and check how the esc is handling and its the same because the motor that uses this esc uses gears to turn the blades.. and im planning to get one and combine it with a t pro comb 780kv 12s max from hobbyking and putting it in my emaxx on 12S
I used 5mm bullet connectors. In this case, I used the bullets from the EC5 connects I use for power. This 5mm connector has plenty of contact area to accommodate the current of this ESC. If you have a larger bullets like a 6mm, go ahead use them. I would not go smaller than 5mm, however.
can anyone help me let me know if:The Turnigy 160A 1:8 th Scale Sensorless ESC Programming Box may be fine for Dlux Turnigy 120A HV Brushless Speed **Controller (OPTO)? Can I buy the Turnigy 160A 1:8 th Scale Sensorless ESC Programming Box for programming the Turnigy 120A HV Dlux Brushless Speed **Controller (OPTO)?
Frederic, the connectors must be sized according to the amperage of your engine. If you are using a 100A motor then use welding 5.5mm connectors (Cod. AM-1005) whith heat shrink tube 6mm or 8mm, example: cod. WH-6MM-BLACK for 6mm and black color. Hope this help.
I am using this esc with turnigy 1.4 rotomax motor, and 10s 4500mah lipo and 20x10 prop in place of a 30cc motor. Will soon put my 72" MX2 in the air and let you know how this ESC holds up. So far, esc has not ever become hot during testing.
Maicom you need to add a 2mm female connector to the positive (red wire) on your battery. Start with connecting the ESC black wire to the battery black wire, then the 2mm red wire to battery red wire. The spark is created when capacitor gets powered up. If you charge it up slower there is no spark. Which protects you connector. There is a resistor in small red lead that allows the capacitors to charge up slower when using the 2mm plug. Wait a few seconds, then plug in the main connector to battery. So it goes to battery. A bit fiddly and you cannot us a T plug or XT60. I hope this helps.
TAke the 2mm Plug on the esc side. Touch it firmly on the Positive side of the battery (After Connecting the negative of Battery & ESC) wait for 3 seconds then remove the 2mm plug and quickly connect the main Red battery connector to the ESC wire.
you connect a small " " wire from the esc to a small " " wire you would have attached to your battery before you plug in your main pack in as per normal.
this is used on high power setups 6cell - 8cell and higher otherwise the termals can arc when conecting your main pack in
Mimrod you need to add a 2mm female connector to the positive (red wire) on your battery. Start with connecting the ESC black wire to the battery black wire, then the 2mm red wire to battery red wire. The spark is created when capacitor gets powered up. If you charge it up slower there is no spark. Which protects you connector. There is a resistor in small red lead that allows the capacitors to charge up slower when using the 2mm plug. Wait a few seconds, then plug in the main connector to battery. So it goes to battery. A bit fiddly and you cannot us a T plug or XT60. I hope this helps.
MiniMikro you need to add a 2mm female connector to the positive (red wire) on your battery. Start with connecting the ESC black wire to the battery black wire, then the 2mm red wire to battery red wire. The spark is created when capacitor gets powered up. If you charge it up slower there is no spark. Which protects you connector. There is a resistor in small red lead that allows the capacitors to charge up slower when using the 2mm plug. Wait a few seconds, then plug in the main connector to battery. So it goes to battery. A bit fiddly and you cannot us a T plug or XT60. I hope this helps.
If I use an XT60 (2 lipos in parallel), then the Red 2mm connector misses the minus pole, right? Can I simply solder a 2nd black wire with 2mm connector, to the ESC battery black wire and charge capacitators by using both 2mm connectors (black and red) first by touching the XT60 from the lipos for some seconds?
Governor programming is usually "on/off". I agree Castle offer something a bit more sophisticated, but my Tc takes care of governor speed using my Align ESC. All I want is "on/off" (enabled) and my Tx will do the rest.
the program card says up to 6s, I need this esc for 10s, Im to afraid to take a risk with this esc until see some more feedback, hope the kforce come back in stock soon, I need a HV esc asap, but to afraid to take the risk on an untested product.
Well ever since my Castle Cremations ESC went up in flames I'm thinking of tying this ESC for my new Logo 600 with Scorpion 5020-450. I hope that this ESC will hold up and not go to flames just like the other one did. Will let you know later on how it performs on a top heli with a big motor.
I dont undestand!!!sorry but my head is hard, very hard indeed!!! You may give me confirmation please?I can Buy The Turnigy 160A 1:8 th Scale Sensorless ESC Programming Box FOR this Turnigy dlux 120A HV Brushless Speed Controller (OPTO)?You confirme ME THESE?
How is this ESC works in your Logo600, is soft start is really soft or i can forget it ???
I have Logo600SE with Turnigy 70HV w/fan and searching ESC(120A) with better soft start.
Hi, Soft start is ****. ESC worked strong for about 12 flights then capacitor fell out. I don't know whether to bother with this ESC at all. Get a Hobbywing if you are on a budget. Hobbywing Platinums are very good.
Turnigy is rebranded HW so i think ill pass and wait/search YEP 120HV , ihave it in my Logo 500SE and its soft start is even too slow :-)
Thank you for answer!
Ps. Is HW Platinum have very soft start???
I dont think Turnigy is a rebranded HW. Turnigy is copy, yes but not rebranded. Copyright rules in China are not that well enforced. Anyway soft start in HW is not that great either but they are very reliable, not bad for the price. If you want good soft start then go for the more expensive brands like YGE or Kont. But soft start is not really matters alot, its how you handle your heli and the reliability of the ESC that matters a lot in my opinion.
Its not a piont of disscussion but:
Turnigy,Emax,OMERC,Thunderpower,Volcano ESC they are HW ESC,just rebranded.
YEP is a copy of YGE and Dlux is copy of Castle Creation ESC's :)
Soft start in Turnigy 70HV i just ripping blades off my Logo head - its stressing all components and its actually VERY,VERY BAD for all setup!!!
Soft start in YEP/YGE is silky smooth i agree.
please get the programming box with this ESC as it just makes life easier and remember to check or do the programming before the first flight then you won't get any surprise in the air I always program all ESC first before i fly them and do a ground check before i fly the first time I have this one on my HK600 running 8Cell (6C 3000mah 40C and 2C 3000mah 40C)and 13 pinion and flight time is great ESC does not get very hot just operating temp about 35 Celcius
8 comments. Reply..
I have tried the esc up to 12s in 90mm EDF, running at the moment on a Arc with wemo 8s set up pulling 90 - 100 amps.
The esc comes set up for 10s not auto detect so you will need to program the esc if you want to run batteries below 10s.
the programing is very very easy and has instructions to do so, its so easy i would not bother with the programing card.
No comments. Reply..
Ottimo regolatore!!! lo abbiamo montato suo nostroKDS innova 700 con motore scorpione 500 KV e lipo Demon OCCL 5200 mah 12 S
Unica pecca il soft start....
2 comments. Reply..
I recently received the above ESC and found that I didn't have the manual for the unit as was shown above to be part of the package. Without the instructions, this expensive unit could be of no use to me. What about it HK ? I would appreciate the manul or if I can access it via internet, please let me know the website where I can download it. Thank you .... Charles L. Barsony
4 comments. Reply..
I am very happy with this very good product came with my instructions, but I bought the card programming much easier