Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5045-450kv Brushless Outrunner Motor
Turnigy SK3 Motors are the next leap forward in motor quality and design. We instructed the engineers to source the best quality magnets, bearings and materials available to them and develop a motor that would not only rival, but surpass the quality of many leading motor manufactures on the market today. The result is an efficient, high caliber motor using quality double shielded bearings, sintered Neodymium magnets and a string wound stator ensuring an accurate and consistent winding each and every time. The Turnigy SK3 motors are suited to modelers who are seeking a quality brushless motor without compromise. Specs.Turns: 18TVoltage: 7~7S LipolyRPM/V: 450kvInternal resistance: 0.025 OhmMax Loading: 58AMax Power: 1260WShaft Dia: 6.0mmBolt holes: 25mmBolt thread: M4Weight: 275gMotor Plug: 4mm Bullet Connector
PRODUCT ID: SK3-5045-450
you would need to use a caliper in order to check the size.. Rcbearing will have the bearings you are looking for. I use a small tap or screw driver - they will pop right out, sometime the inside bearing will pop right out when pulling the motor appart.. I have not needed new bearing on these yet, however I have had to glue the magnets in 99% of these motors. go figure, but it's worth it. jaosn
Drive/Motor calculator. HELP! Can somebody please recommend a calculator which lists Turnigy motors and batteries? Seems like I'm going to have to learn to use these things but the ones I have looked at ask for some info which HK doesn't supply and none of those I've looked at list Turnigy motors or batteries in their "standards" lists
I'm not sure the calculator but, I can tell you the prp and battery I am using. I am running a 16x8 with a 3300 6s battery I am gettiing 1150 watts & gett an6 min flight 6s 15x8 I am getting 900 watts 14 is not worth the trouble
I bought this motor for a .46 size low wing which I converted to electric. At the rated 450kv I expected about 10500 rpm with a 6s battery. Actual performance was ***r so I went from a 12x6 to a 12x8 and am now getting respectable performance(remember,prop clearance is a problem). Did some bench tests today and discovered that RPM at 23.5v is 9100 which equates to Kv of 382, very different to the rated 450! Current draw was only 18.55 amps at 9100rpm with the 12x8 prop. So, this seems to be a somewhat more powerful motor than the specs. would suggest! :-)
It would really help if HK would provide the glow equivalent of all or most of their electric motors. Why should it be such a mystery? I am new to electrics and have no idea whether this motor is suitable for a .46 size 'plane. I am aware of the drive calc, moto calc type programmes but those things are so complex, I think the designers simply try to show off their genius - the programmes are so complex that they are not usable by the average noob. Please HK, give us more info on IC equivalents!!!!
The easy match series lists the G46 twice, one at 670Kv and one at 420Kv - what does that mean?. In any case, that does not answer my question. I still believe Hk should give us more info - recommended prop sizes, IC equivalents etc!!!
JASON: I offered HK a software package that answers Mr Skybolt 123's questions. Please prompt Mr Hand and see what he thinks. I said there was a need for it, and it seems I'm right.
SKYBOLT: All you need to do with my package is enter the aircraft weight (best guess), flying style (drop-down selection) and flight time, and the package tells you the motor, ESC and battery you need.
Oh, it recommends the prop size too. In response to your question, this motor is a SOLID "46" size. My package suggests you use a 6S 5000mAh Lipo, an 80A-6S ESC, and a 12x9 or 13x7 propeller. Be sure to check the set-up with a watt meter to optimise the prop.
Unfortunately you have lots to learn, this is a huge subject. To answer your question the 420Kv is probably to run with 6S and the 670Kv with a 4S lipo setup, also dependent on prop size/pitch etc. Just specifying an electric motor as an IC equivalent is very limiting and would lead to further confusion/wrong selection. There is a much finer granularity to electric motor selection then just the regular IC sizes. In the end you would end up with 20 different motors all classed as 46 size but with varying power handling capabilities. You still need to know how to choose between them, so you are back to where you started, needing to understand what you are selecting.
I am a 60 year old retired managing director and director of companies. In my time I have learned many things, but I don't wish to learn electronics. I just want to enjoy my (electric)flying, which is exactly what I am doing without having learned anything about electronics. Do you need to be an automotive engineer to drive a motor vehicle? I have driven one for 40 years and have never opened the hood!
I hear you, Skybolt. You make a good point about cars. However, we don't assemble the cars we drive - most of us take them as they are, and hand them back when things aren't right. With planes we need to know a bit more, because we [usually] specify the motor, ESC, battery and prop. Get any one of these wrong and the system will either under-perform or fail. That said, you don't need to be an electronics expert to get it right. I'm happy to send you my simple spreadsheet that prompts you for the aircraft details and your target flying style, and it will tell you what you need. I'm on RC Groups on this user-name - send me a personal message or an email if you're keen.
I'm thinking of putting this motor on an Extreme Flight Edge 540t 60", the numbers are basicly equal to the prescribed torque 4016/500 motor.
Thisone I think will do a little better on 6s.
Anyone having the same idea, or already tried it?
Interesting discussion, I would place this motor in the 60/90glow range and run a larger prop 15/16x8or6 6S min. For me a 4S motor is around 800Kv. I currently run this can * 660Kv on 6s 15x8 prop 85 AMP tza speed control on a Mojo 60 with just over 1000 squin of wing. Will yank the plane straight up out of hover with way more speed than the Saito 100 the emotor system replaced.
I agree with your prop suggestion, I think 14" and under wont get you much with this motor. Im running an SK42-60 500kv with a 15x6 at 65A on 6S which isn't far away from this motor. I wanted to get this but couldnt wait for the stock to come.
Exactly what I have found. This is on my Zlin 50l 70 size.
Excellent motor! Installed it into a FMS 1400mm P-47. Unlimited vertical performance! IMHO this is the correct motor for that size plane. Some numbers I recorded with a Watts Up! meter: SK3 5045-450KV, Turnigy dlux 55A (67A burst) ESC, FMS stock 14x10x4 blade prop, 5s, 18.5v, 3000mAh, 30c LiPo (New): 1075 watts - 57 amps. Just about perfect!
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motore molto buono, montato su U-CAN-DO 0.46 con 15/6 APC regolatore turnigy trusth 55A MAX CORRENTE 36AMP trust 3,5kg batterie turnigy 2650mah 6s 25c-50c oltre 10minuti di volo !!!
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I'm currently using this motor on an Extreme Flight Edge 540T 60".
6 cell 3000mah lipo
15 x 8 apc thin electric prop
The results are very good, even though is still only uses about 46 amps.
I would say this motor is the quality equivalent of a Hacker.
The quality of this motor is superb, a lot better than the SK2 series.
No vibrations, very quiet. I love it!
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Took advice and put this in airfield mustang 1450mm, 6 cell 2650mah battery, 80 amp exceed esc.....makes it a whole different airplane. Excessive power, will go vertical until you cant see it on stock four blade prop. Highly recommend.
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80pcnt quality in my book. Has potential to be a great motor. But HK misses the mark in quality. The prop adapter that screws into the can has recessed mounts. One of the 3 was not recessed enough so that the screw head stuck out and interfered with spinner backplate so it would not sit flush. OK I can handle that with a dremel (it work).
Then on my run up test awesome performance 1100W, 56A on 6s. But during test magnets on the can came loose and some slid together. So take them out, scrape off the crappy glue and reglue them. Unfortunately one of the magnets broke. So I wasted all that time and have no working motor.
Really HK - EVERYWHERE you read about the bad glue used on the magnets in these motors. What's the point of making a great motor that uses cheap adhesives and comes apart in the first runup?