Turnigy SK3 Motors are the next leap forward in motor quality and design. We instructed the engineers to source the best quality magnets, bearings and materials available to them and develop a motor that would not only rival, but surpass the quality of many leading motor manufactures on the market today.
The result is an efficient, high caliber motor using quality double shielded bearings, sintered Neodymium magnets and a string wound stator ensuring an accurate and consistent winding each and every time.
The Turnigy SK3 motors are suited to modelers who are seeking a quality brushless motor without compromise.
Specs. Motor Type: 4 Pole Inrunner Winding: 2.5D Voltage: 12S Lipoly RPM/V: 850kv Internal resistance: 0.012 Ohm Max Loading: 90A Max Power: 3950W Shaft Dia: 8.0mm Weight: 554g Motor Plug: 4mm Bullet Connector
Yeah It fits in the 12s CS very snugg... weighs a bit though... ran it on ten cells... lots of thrust.
it was to heavy for me and the smaller version would of been perfect... well next mirage thats what im going for.
Yes ,Patrick , it does work on that hoaye fan , the only thing you need is to get the 8mm shift for your blade , as the fan comes with 6mm . they have in the part section of edfs.And yes the motor diameter will fit perfacto .
Byronfans are way too big, I did one with a different motor and it pulls too many amps...no matter what..but this motor will work wonders on up to 127mm fans..on 10c for Byro-jets, Yellow Aircraft and JHH that use a 5" fan.
Hello Greenfuelboy, Yes this motor would work fine for the Byron fan. I am running a 590Kv on 12s. Amp draw is around 95. On 8s 850 Kv your amp draw should be about the same just a tad bit higher because of the lower volts. Thrust should be around 12-14Lbs. Reinforce the shroud stators to housing if you plan to mount it in a tractor configuration. Get the Stainless 8mm prop adapter from TruTurn and use JB weld to eliminate the flat on the shaft and you will be good to go.
which best possible performance of this engine? with which propeller? until size model? because I have a twin-engine FW190 with 1 meter long wingspan and 1.8 .Please send responses p menenanet*hotmail****
A twin engine FW-190 would be something rare !! check again on your model...but anyway* from 9x6 to 12x4 would do on up to 4 cells...you find the less amperage pulling prop and stick to it..even if too small for the plane !!
I have a boomerang that's running An OS 40 and I want to switch it to electric, I have never done a transfer like this and I was hoping some one can point me towards the best motor and esc for what I have.. Thankyou
I ran this with a Turnigy Sentilon 100A ESC. Ran okay on "low" timing but the ESC blew up spectacularly with smoke and flames when I set the timing to "high". How does one know what to choose?
I want to run this motor on a prop. I recently ran a T3648 1450kv on 7 x 5E wide chord prop, 200amp esc on 6s. It produced a stunning performance on my weston uk magnum. 96amps 1700w 3kg thrust. Spending $300 dollars on this motor plus 12s esc and two 6s nano lipo's does not seem attractive. Double weight to then only use a 7 x 6 prop and gain an additional .6kg thrust?
This engine is exclusively for EDF?
Discussion in spitfire says:
8x6 should give you around 5kg thrust but pull 75Amps 12S
My question is:
Is it harmful for him to operate this motor with a propeller?
And I could with a larger propeller-12s still use to get more performance?
You have to stay within the specifications of the motor and the prop. It's not harmful to run a prop on this motor however there are better choices. 7x6 Will put out 3.6kg thrust but use 2.828kw to get there. It's really inefficient. What plane are you thinking of putting it in.
You could always run less cells and run a larger prop???
I need a motor to replace a marine IC engine. This looks good for 3950W/745 = 5.3Hp. Pretty respectable!
The question is what cells and ESC to use in a marine setup.
Am I right I need 12S 1C 90C - if so what cells do you recommend and what marine ESC.
Is this possible with current (no pun intended) technology?
I have this engine in an rc boat, I have used it in a 39" genesis sold here, and am just finished putting it in a 33" mono. It is a very strong motor and will drive a 47 to 50mm prop no worries. There are a number of 12s esc's, I use a Fightercat 16s esc, but there are many brands available, Turnigy makes a 80Hv which is rated at 12s and would support 4800w on 12s however I have never seen one used.
My new Turnigy SK3 Fandrive motor arrived today. It's big and looks to be very nice quality. The 8mm shaft is impressive. It has two sets of four holes for mounting that are the standard 25mm across. Each set of four holes has a different screw size.
I am using the SK3 Fandrive motor in an RC Lander 120mm metal DF. You can see my graphs in the thread in the Electric RC Jets forum of RCU. I will try to post a link below and the Castle Creations data log graph. www.link
It looks like my Castle data logging image uploaded to the files tab ok but my links get filtered out. Using the SK3 Fandrive on the Lander 120mm DF, I get 4500 watts and 15lbs thrust at 111 amps with a 12s 5AH 30C pack. RPMs were 34.2K.
8x6 should give you around 5kg thrust but pull 75Amps 12S
12x7 should give you around 6.5kg thrust and pull 122amps on 5S. If you had two packs in parallel it would be easier on your batteries because it would go from 75 amps to 61 amps/per pack
I've messed around quite a bit with the larger fans form here* 4" and up, and you can really tell the difference using an 8mm shaft as opposed to a 5 or 6mm. The smaller diameters will flex and magnify any slight imbalance when you get up over 3kW output. They use to, maybe still do sell adapters for the Hoyae(4", 4.5" and 5") that fit the 8mm shafts.
I bought this motor and I drilled holes to the back plates too for better cooling. Which timing may I use for smooth throttle reaction and optimal power? I have fully programable 120A HV ESC for 4-14S...
what is the No-Load Current???
This is an essential motor parameter, did u just forget to state it or what??
Maybe it is german efficiency, but for big caliber motors like that one it is necessary to know the no load current, if u don't u can't calculate anything!!
hi , may ask , why we need that ,so i can learn more.Because up to now ,i never put the noload in to any of my cal ,all i need the kv ,maxamp and the watt power and of course the volt.So please tell me.
No-load current is a tiny variable in comparison to Resistance. Sure, calculators like it, but play with the no-load value in the calculator, and then play with the resistance. Which one makes a huge difference?? RESISTANCE.
It will make the difference between a 2000W motor and a 4000W motor.
BTW, the resistance on this motor looks NICE.
Just wish it had cooling holes to really allow us to run the watts.
So you just guess the no load current in your calcs?
This is one of the three major and standard parameters stated in every datasheet of any given electric motor. If you have these, you will be able to calculate every graph needed (efficiency, slip, current etc.). if one is missing u just can not calculate anything at all.
That's about it.
No-load current will only affect the outcome of your calculations by 3-4 amps.
Resistance can affect the calculated amp draw by huge amounts. More importantly, resistance is the determining factor for how efficient the motor will be. High efficiency from low resistance translates directly into how much power the motor can safely handle.
I,ll check that any way .But 12S and 880kv=39072rpm
that tells me is good for light pitch blade of 5or 6
to riv up,and is not for Hauyo 7blade hight pitch.As i,m not into high speed , rather high static thrust * lower rpm . let say around 33000rpm .
I just remember , i have this motor , of course mine is 1400 kv , they both run on 8S not 12S , where on earth you got that ,Are we on same page turnigy 4030
ID:T600-880 ,??and both got 3250 of watts not 5000, as you claim .
Please look on the RCGroups page I linked, the proof is in the pudding not just specs on a page. This person has been putting 4500-5500 watts through the 4030-880kv motor for almost a year. It's one of the reason the motor has doubled in price on HK. Also, HK is notorious for underspecing their motors. I have videos on YouTube of 90mm fans doing 9lbs of thrust with HK car motors
ARCDirect, the number of cells used is up to the user. They must then select an appropriate propeller to achieve the desired load. Hobby King recommend voltage ranges for all their motors, but the world doesn't end if you use more cells. It is POWER that matters. You neglected to advise what prop you were using and that makes all the difference.
To STRAIGHT UP, No Sir you are dead wrong .You do that ,you gone cook the motor in short time .When they say 6S , they already having the extra volt in the therer , 6S full charge is 25.2 volts but ,when they" the manufacturer" cal it they do it on 3.7volt per cell so as we. 6S is 22.2volt and this the volt that i cal when i get my Kv as well .
ARCDirect, no sir, you are the one who is dead wrong (and clearly very inexperienced in operating electric motors). I repeatedly run motors on higher voltages than specified. I always check the set-up and make sure I am NOT exceeding the recommended POWER. You can run a "3S" motor on 6S if you use a much smaller prop. The only risk is overspeeding the bearings. The windings won't arc until a much higher voltage is used, but you knew that already didn't you? No? Oh dear, back to school, Skippy.
There we go again .You just answered your self , by saying .The bearings gone over speeding .No body says you cant do it .All we saying that every motor ,is design for spec use ,and we should stay with spec of it .
Typical motor speed is 6000 - 10,000rpm. If you think the bearings are anywhere near their limit at 10,000rpm you are kidding yourself. Bearings are usually WELL over-rated to ensure they are not limiting. Some of the old SK motors had bearing problems, but generally not an issue. You never mentioned overspeed or bearings in your concerns.
As for voltage, consider a 300W "3S" motor with Kv=1000. On 3S it will be turning at around 10,000rpm, and when properly loaded it will draw ~27A. At 70% efficiency there will be 90W of heating. Now switch to 4S, and use a smaller prop to maintain 300W. The rpm rises to ~13,000 (bearings likely rated to 20,000 or even 30,000rpm). Current drops to 21A, reducing losses to heat, but assuming there is no efficiency gain we still get 90W of heat. Result - no problem at all. On 6S the current would be down to 15A to maintain 300W - a much happier motor. The bearings might be oversped if they are rated to only 20,000. So.... do what you want but don't tell others they are wrong simply because you don't understand.
Completely agree with Straight up. Voltage rating of motor is really due to breakdown voltage of insluation of the wires - which is no where near 20-30 even 40V. Realistically, as Straight up said, you May overspeed bearings, but at the speeds we generally run motors, this is unlikely. If you keep within the power rating of the motors, going up to even 12S is not a problem. I have now switched all my bigger planes to 6S (as I have a lot of 3S packs, and standard ESC only go up to 6S) - regardless of what motor spec says, just select appropriate Kv and prop to achieve lower current (happy motor and batteries).
And I've never burnt a motor due to voltage - power thats a different story *)
So what you saying ,F...the spec and then do as you say . No sir the world dont run this way .I,m sorry
you are wrong , or make the manufacture say what you say .End of discussion ...................RT
True, you are right, I've only been doing it for the past 15 years, what would I know?
But....if you don't know / understand, following the specs is a good idea. Just dont tell people who do know what they are talking about that they are wrong.
ARCdirect: keep going. You've hit rock bottom, and you're still digging. If you've got no idea what you're doing (your situation) then yes, follow the spec. Just be aware that you can still burn out a motor even if you use the specified voltage. Add a big enough prop and you'll pull too many amps. As for electrical engineering degrees, do you have one? I don't but Skyfox does. Maybe you should listen to him.
Hello , are you there .Who is there . I aint talking about prop , rather fan i mean EDF . And i sure hope so that the F doesnt stand for you know !!!!!You guys sound to me like couple of jugglers , who no matter what . They want wine even when they are wrong . And for your info >? Never mind
good bye and good luck .
One more thing , you an watch me on you tube , and when i got my RCLANDER ready to go , When i go to Arizona for my target and tactical practice around , Jan or Fab , i,ll put it on you tube so you can see that, following spec is a sure way to go .No you guys wont be on my team when i go to mission ,since you dont follow sepec . LOL
Fellow HK customers: I'm sorry you've had to wade through all this gibberish. I understand these threads are for legitimate questions, but I didn't have the strength of character to ignore this idiot's whining. Several have tried to educate him, but he's infallible and can't listen to reason, so he'll never stop. Sadly we can't even turn his expended energy into something useful, like a charged Lipo!
here is the ID:HK-505K , they for 36mm motor ,just got two of them they fit 39mm as well they grip to the wall of motor and i secure em with ca glue as well 2 per motor is good idea since they come like half moon .they are leasted under EDF and access .
Very nice, but two things. Please add cooling hole in the front and back of the motor and dont machine the flat spot on the shaft. DO those two things and you have a winner. More KV options too please.
Yeah, I don't get why EVERY bloody motor needs a flat spot on the shaft... If we need one, we will dremel one! EASY!....DONE!.... Its harder to go backwards... That's half the problem, we get good motors pop up for sale and then 1/2 of them aren't useable because of the flat on the shaft....
pilotrcuk - Matters what kinda thrust you want, my calculation (850kv x 44volts = 37,000 on low timing) would put this around 5.5lbs of thrust on 12s using the HET rotor. If you were to use the haoye rotor and shroud HK sells (the 7 blade one) you could get over 8lbs. There are other 39mm can motors HK sells, there's a 1600kv one that's 40mmx82m and it's 50USD. It should give around 8lbs of thrust on the HET rotor low timing. Yeah, I wish there were more low KV motors...my batteries take a beating
this motor is a piece of **** the shaft is to long and too thick 8mm is not a good size,I bought one for a turbax fan unit and I need to grind the shaft down to 6mm and cut about 0.250 in.to many problem.
Hey you guys, interesting reading. I wish you all would start a blog on the form. I'm new at this and building a ViperJet 70 mm bought motor and fan from Extreme RC in Australia. Typhoon 2w-25 motor, and a wemotee minifan pro. Sounds like you all know what your talking about except for one person. I want to build a ViperJet 90mm.
Great motor, could use larger cooling holes in can. Would like to see a more versatile version as shaft is 25mm long, would like a shorter shaft of 12mm so as to be able to fit onto Haoye fans. Would also like to see a 1200KV version for 8S and 10S use. Make it happen HK, would definately improve sales if people can utilise this motor in fans other than CS 120mm. Good motor overall.
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Very nice motor. 12S 5000mah 30C, Zippy 120amp Castle (low timing) (180amp Turnigy Delux would not handle it) 120mm 4 blade ChangeSun Fan (sold here) Results 85 amps, 3500watts and 10.5lbs static thrust Warm but not hot.
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This motor is ideal for the impeller 12 Blade High-Performance 90mm EDF Ducted Fan Unit and achieves traction 5.5kg (12 lb) at a current of 99 amps, 44 volts at a voltage of 2 pieces Turnigy nano-tech 8000mAh 6S 25 ~ 50C Lipo Pack and Power 4320 watts /
at a current of 90 amperes at a voltage of 44 volts and 4000 watts load capacity 5.15 kg of thrust (11,3 lb). Have a pleasant flight.