The HobbyKing Universal Heater System features temperature adjustment and a thermal sensor to allow temperature control from 30 to 80 degrees celcious. With a voltage range of 7.4v to 12v the heater can be powered by a 2s to 3s lipo. Add one to your transmitter glove and fly in luxury this winter, warm the tyres on your car or pre-heat your lipo in winter or even summer for the best performance. Pre-heating a Lipo pack to 30degC in winter will give your model much better performance, right from the start.
Specs: Input: 7.4v to 12v Temperature: 30~80deg Celcious Sensor: LM35DZ - Precision Centigrade Temperature Sensor Heat Pads: 310x80mm Amp Draw: 5.2A @ 12v Input Connector: 2 x Alligator Clips
I just picked my new HobbyKing Universal Heater System up, I have put a low voltage alarm in line with it. I will be using this for my leather jacket when I ride in the winner looks great but as we all should know you need a low voltage alarm. so you don't have a time bomb on you. but it work great. I know HK has them but I picked up my low voltage alarm from ****monsenserc they work great. I have 2 more on the way.
Pads get extremely hot!!!
Unless the temp sensor is pressed HARD against the pad's coil in just the right spot the pads will literally melt, even at the controllers lowest setting. If you use this to heat a battery without the temperature sensor it WILL melt the battery's heat shrink. The major problem I have with it is that there is only one temp sensor and there are two pads??? And the temp sensor's leads are about 5 inches shorter than the pads'???
Overall I still think its a great product but it will never be a pocket warmer, and unless I can figure out a way to permanently attach the sensor to the pad it may never get used at all.
Now that you've melted your bad back is there any low voltage alarm? It looks like we will have to provide our own alarm. Maybe you have a bad sensor. Usually this type of sensor is more sensitive and should work (but not as accuratly) even if it's just close to the heat source. Be sure and wear your kevlar undershirt when heating your back and thanks for the heads up.
LOL. No LVA and yes, the ceramic heat sensor needs to be pressed really close to the coil for it to work. It's an on/off sensor so it just cycles on/off to maintain voltage. I have a glove warmer that works. Think I will just convert that to Lipo and get on with it. : )
I purchased this for my Raydiowarm (http://www.raydiowarm.com). Hooking this thing up was very easy:
1.) I cut off the alligator clips and soldered on a deans connector. 2.) The Radiowarm I found out that it has sleeves on the side that the pads slide into. The probe must be in contact with the silver side of the pads or they may heat up too much. 3.)I used a 7.4v lipo as a 12v lipo gets waaay to hot. 4.) The only problem with this setup is that it does not protect the lipos from low voltage. So I bought this - Hobby King Battery Monitor 2S. This will warn me when the battery gets low. I hooked up my wattmeter and found out that this unit consumes 3.7A and at 27 watts and if use a 3s its is 5A at 50-5 watts. A quick calculation(2200mah) and it looks like I can use this for about 20 minutes and give me a 40pcnt safety buffer in left in the battery.
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2200 3s on lowest setting lasted 11 minutes. Waste of time using it to heat your receiver mitten unless you only go to the field for one flight.
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Love it. I use it as a hand warmer for my pockets and transmitter glove, keeps my coffee warm(warm not hot) but when your flying in sub freezing temp anything is good. I use a 2650 mah 3s for about 2 hrs of heat. A 2s 5000 lasts about 4hrs. when the thermostat kicks on the heat it pulls 6 amps. I duct taped the heat sensor to the silver side on top of one of the wires and it works great. 3 other people at my flying field now have them. We've also used it to pre-heat a cylinder head on one of the glow motors that was difficult to start in the cold.