The Hobbyking SS series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic.
Spec. Weight: 85g Size: 70x50x13mm Cells: 2-7S Li Po Max Current: 190A Burst : 200A No BEC Timing: 1/7/15/30 programmable PWM: 8/16K
Constant current 190A Max 200A <10S
Li-Poly 2-7 cells
Auto shut down when lose signal
Slow down at 3.0V per cell Lipo, Cut-off at 2.9V per cell Lipo 0.8V NiMh
User Programming options.
Brake settimg 4 options:
Direction and Cutoff Type
Timing Mode Setting: 1 / 7 / 15 / 30
PWM setting: 8K/16K
This ESC is OPTO, with no BEC supplying power to your receiver. You will need an extra power source for your receiver. (such as UBEC or Rx battery pack) If you hear the music tone repeat for more than 3 times, you may need to check your power source to the receiver.
just got this esc in today. dont think the manual in the files section is correct. tried programming 6 cells but only get a 4 cell beep. tried it under the first esc model since there is no specific model listed on the manual that matches this battery.
I ended up with the version that DOESN'T let me program timing or frequency Im using this for a pylon racer that will run 4s at 19000 rmp 8x8 prop Is it going to work with whatever timing and freq it comes with or am i going to burn up?
Help! can some one please tell me where to find programming instructions for this thing? I tried to use the guide for the SUPPO controller but this controller doesn't go into the sixth sub option for cell type. it stops at 5 beeps. Plus it only goes 4 beeps in the sub option menu of option one. so i can never get to options, timing mode or PWM. Getting ready to toss it.
New to electrical systems but old time glow flyer. I have a 120 size P-51 Mustang. Will this ESC work with this motor: Turnigy G160 Brushless Outrunner 290kv (160 Glow)??? The says it requires: 85~ 100A HV ESC. Every review I read says they had problems with them burning up after the 4 use or so. I cannot see spending almost 100.00 for something that will not last.
No. This ESC is not HV (high voltage) HV is designed to run your servos at 7.4c, which requires HV capable servos. Otherwise you'll cook normal servos in no time.
Also, if your expecting 100a from your plane your better off with a 100a ESC. Running an ESC at or near half its max amps is as bad as running over max amps. Both will kill it quickly.
If your plane requires a HV setup there is HV options here. Be sure you have HV servos too. Also available here.
Buzkill: This speed controler does NOT have a BEC! It doesn't affect the servos at all. dmartin: This speedy can handle up to 7S but the motor you mention can handle 10S. I'd be looking at the HV speedies if your going to use that motor and cell count of battery.
Yes Im aware of that. However, this ESC is not a HV ESC in the traditional sense, as in designed to run HV servos and such.
Either way, this ESC is the wrong ESC for a model requiring 100a. Many people make the mistake of running a ESC at or around 50% of its normal capacity thinking they are "playing it safe" when in fact this is worse than exceeding the rated amperage for the device.
Marketing has blurred the term "HV" which should be reserved for models whose servos require more voltage than the typical "5.5v" that is so common, especially in a 120 size electric model that may require very powerful (high torque) servos.
Again, anyway you look at it, this ESC is not the right choice for a model requiring a 100a ESC. The person asking the question was answered correctly.
He was answered correctly in that this isn't a high voltage speed controler. BUT, once again that has absolutely nothing to do with the receiver or servos. The only connection with the receiver at all is to control the throttle. By high voltage they are reffering to the voltage running the motor, as in running on a 10 or 12S LiPo. What voltage your servos and receiver run on depends entirely on your voltage regulator or seperate flight pack battery.
Thanks again for the replies... Yes I was thinking this could handle the power needed for the motor that is needed for the 120 P-51 Mustang. I'm thinking of electric motor so I can keep the plan in my house with out a gas smell. I do not have a garage. As far as the servo's go, I should be able to use standard size high torque or even digital. 1 servo per control surface. The plan requires (with retracts) 9 servo's. If I need a separate flight pack just for servo's, that is not a problem. The small added weight will not effect the plan at all. I might just make it easier and put a gas engine in it. Would love to go electric if I could. Plus I did not know going with an ESC bigger than I needed would be damaging to the ESC. Like you said, logically in my mind, I was thinking I would be safe. I'm still new and learning :)
If you cant give an answer that is correct without confusing the issue even more, please do not try. Why was servo voltage even mentioned for a ESC that doesent even have a BEC.? Not trying to bash anyone, just want to protect those that rely on these posts for help.
I couldn't agree more rq4jet. It's an opto speedy and he's on about the servos. I don't believe that rubish about using a higher capacity speedy than you need being worse than an undercapacity one. I've heard that one before and although I'm not an electronics engineer, if I run a speedy rated to say 60 amps at 60 amps it gets a hell of a lot hotter than it does at 30 amps. I've never fried one "playing it safe". I have fried a few by trying to get a bit too much out of them though so I'll call BS on that one. Why should anyone believe that bloke when everything else he said is so completely WRONG.
Well Sawdust you are kind of right. Actually I am an electronics engineer, retired now finally after spending over 40 years with NASA. There is no question that heat is the main cause of electronic component failures. A slightly overated component is always better than an underated one or one that is run at the high end of its specification. A good rule of thumb would be to use a ESC that is rated about 25% above the maximum current that you expect to draw from it. Above ALL make sure there is adequate air flow over the ESC for cooling. Happy Landings...
Thanks rq4ajet. That confirms everything that experience has taught me. It's good to hear it confirmed by someone like you who definately would know with your work experience and qualifications. Happy landings to you too :-)
timing i beleive refers to what pole motor you have and pwm would refer to max motor rotation im not going into windings but forsay boats you want to try to achieve approx 25000 - 30000 rpm to the prop.
bad ass esc im running this on 6cell lipo in a traxxas emaxx 1/8scale rc truck i know its not a car esc but it handles it just fine my emaxx is crazy fast
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Mine lasted about 5 minutes of run time. The timing was weird on it. It did not have a linear throttle response. it would increase rpm in increments... Like a 5 speed. At "idle" it locked the prop. I guess to prevent windmilling of the prop but why waste battery life stopping the prop from turning?
Anyway, I did a few test runs with a 4 cell then I plugged in the eight cell and it ran for maybe two seconds then blew sparks out both ends. I threw it outside fast in case it was gonne burn but now fire.
A 190 amp should be able to handle an 8 cell. Right?
On the other hand it's only 30 bucks so for a 4 cell it could work(?) so call it an 80 amp for 30 bucks. Not bad if you look at it that way I guess
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Very unhappy hobbyking, have ordered from you guys before, no mention in the page for this esc, that there are two versions of this and guess what i got the version that i don't want, I am using this on a 2200 watt funjet Ultra with an inrunner motor I wanted to adjust the timing and PWM as the page said i could and you guys send the one that can't do that, if there are two versions give people the option of odering it that way, don't just send them out random. FALSE ADVERTISING!!!!!!!!
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It says you can program timing and frequency NOT TRUE there is no programming mode for that only throttle cut of type cell count brake and rotation direction
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So far I have run this ESC on my formula 40 pylon racer converted to electric. Ive run it with a 8x8 prop and it pulls 109 amps full throttle and spins static at 19000 rpm with that prop and 4 cell 5000 lipo 40c discharge. I flew it twice so far. The batteries got slightly warm and the ESC got very slightly warm Doing 5 high speed fly by's with cooling laps just in case. I don't plan to race it Its just for speed fun. I plan to try a 8x10 prop soon That will draw more power and give more speed. So far I'm impressed how well this ESC works for only 30 bucks. For those who are curious the plane is doing about 160 mph and is expected to do more then 180Mph with the 8x10 prop. you tube video yet to come soon. I MAY just push it abit harder with 5s It will be under the esc's rating but not sure if the motor will take that.