The DH Beaver is without doubt one of the most widely know STOL "bush planes" and has become an aviation classic, good looking, powerful, tough and very capable, the Beaver was ideally suited to operating in the most hostile of conditions. As it could also be fitted with floats or ski's, the Beaver became a hugely popular workhorse with both Civilian and Military Operators, despite a slow start, the Beaver became a huge sales success and ranks as one of Canada's most succesful exports.
This H-King Beaver has a superb, high detail scale finish, the airframe is nicely constructed and the covering expertly applied. The model comes with lot's of vac formed parts and even cockpit seats, which combine with the realistic finish to give you a truly fantastic looking scale model that any pilot would be proud to own. With an 1800mm wingspan, the Beaver is a great size and has tons of presence both on the ground and in the air, it is also very practical and features a 2pc plug in wing and all four doors are hinged for easy access.
The Beaver of course was famous for it's superb STOL characteristics and the H-King Beaver does not disappoint, landings are a breeze courtesy of the large flaps which are operated by in internal linkage for a nice clean wing. This fantastic looking DH Beaver is such a pleasure to fly and is very practical, the perfect every day model for even the most demanding RC scale pilots!
Features: High Level of Scale Detail Vac Formed Radial Engine, Undercarriage Covers, etc Scale Seats Included 2pc Plug In Wing Hinged Doors for Fast Access Nicely Finished Glass Fiber Cowl Tough Under-Carriage and Steerable Tailwheel Low Build Cost Large Flaps for Excellent Low Speed Performance
Specs: Wingspan: 1800mm Length: 1190mm Flying Weight: 2500g~2600g Airfoil Section: Clark Y Wing Area: 38.5dm2 Wing Loading: 65~68g/dm2
Requires: Your Own 5~6 Channel TX/RX 35-42 Brushless Outrunner Motor 60A ESC UBEC 4000mAh 3s~4s Lipoly Battery 4 x MG 12g High Torque Servo + 2 x MG Park Servo
Ok, so dig some digging and research from the info provided below. Worked out if I run the Turnigy G60-500 with an 80A ESC and a 13x6 3 blade prop, I should get around 560W of electrical power and 506W of mechanical power. This is with a 4S 3300mA lipo. Does this sound right?
Very unlikely that you will be able to achieve 90% power conversion - might achieve 80%, if you have a good prop at the optimum RPM for the motor and prop.
The motor will run on a 4s but I think it will be more efficient on 5s or 6s with a smaller prop - say a 12x6 or 12x8. perhaps even a 13x6. You might have to buy a few different props and experiment - Definitely use a power meter though to ensure you don't over-stress the motor, battery or esc.
Hi All. I am slowly converting over from nitro to electric. I know how to setup and prop nitro engines, but am a complete virgin when it comes to electrics. I see various combinations here, but wanted to know was was the best overall setup for motor and prop. I want to order the kit, motor and ESC in one go.
(1 h.p. = 746 watts or about 750 watts)
1.♠* .20-size glow engine / 300w electric motor
2.♠* (OS Max 0.20 engine develops 0.4 hp = 300w electric motor (AXI 2820) )
3.♠* .35-size glow engine / 500w electric motor
4.♠* (Fox 0.35 stunt engine develops 0.7 hp = 522w electric motor)(AXI 2826)
5.♠* .40-size glow engine develops 1.0 hp = 750w electric motor (AXI 2826 or 4120)
6.♠* .60-size glow engine develops 1.3 hp = 975w electric motor (AXI 4120 or 4130)
7.♠* .90-size glow engine develops 1.6 hp = 1200w electric motor (AXI 5320 or 4130)
8.♠* 1.20-size glow engine develops 3.0 hp = 2250w electric motor (AXI 5330)
9.♠* DA-50 develops 5.0 hp = 3750w electric motor (AXI 5330)
10.♠* DA-100 develops 9.8 hp = 7311w electric motor (Double AXI 5330)
750 watts = 1 HP if the electric motor is 100% efficient (You can not buy one).
1000 watts = 1 HP if the electric motor is 75% efficient.
Good electric motors are “*around”* 75% to 80% efficient –* if used correctly.
I believe that 35-42/1250 with 4s battery would be the best choice.
Hope this helps and please vote me for best answer.. :)
So mine arrived yesterday and of course I ordered the wrong servo's. I thought they were mistaken suggesting such a small servo on an 1800mm plane. Will the TGY9018MG really stand up to the job? These are the same size servos as on my 1030mm foam Cub. I don't want to crash this baby due to insufficient torque. I already lost one this year to a bad servo. Don't want to do it again.
JUST RECEIVED MY DHC-2 BEAVER BALSA SUPER SCALE..NEEDS SOMEONE HELP. THE BEAVER CALL FOR MG 12G HIGH TORQUE SERVO,
SINCE i CAN'T FIND WHAT SERVO THAT IS, COULD SOMEONE TELL
ME WHAT TYPE AND BRAND SERVO I SHOULD USE. THANKS DON
flew mine a couple of days ago. Flys well and is easy to handle with the book CG. The radio / elec gear has to be as far forward as you can get to avoid the need for additional balast which means there is not as much room for the gear as might at first appear.
Used a G60 with a 14x6 3 blade prop and an 80A Turnigy ESC. More power than needed but I plan to put it onto floats.
I bought this plane in November and if you look at the pictures one of them you see four seats in the plane but when you ricieve it you only get two. Why do they only send two if you can see four and in the description they say the seats are included. I am not happy
I could not resist. I ordered one today. Looks beautiful. According to the specs a G32 600kv with a 4cell will pull this around. I have a spare one kicking around. Is this correct? I ordered 13x8 3 blade props. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I got this plane and I am running a 790kv electric motor with 12x6 3 bladed prop. To CG this plane out I had to put in 20 small lead weights and two 3600 four cell battaries. Is this common to have to have all this weight becuase of the elictric. Thanks Brent
Some one else had to put 7 onces of weight in the nose to bring the CG to 70mm. I have had to put 8.5 ounces in mine to bring it close to the 70mm balance. I haven't flown mine yet but would rather it be slightly nose heavy for the first flight. What was your total weight in ounces to properly balance it and have you flown it yet?
Can somebody tell me how to install a glow-engine on this aircraft or is this aircraft not strong enough. Otherwise i have to buy the smaller one, but that one has no flaps. Is there also an intructions to upload for me?! Thanks in advance
Hi there, the Beaver arrived today out of the German warehouse. No problems, no damage. Some good news (IMHO), the aircraft is now without any registration markings! Not the NB and Canadian regs on the tail nor the US reg on the fuselage, wings are "clean" too. So a white aircraft with the blue and reds stripes, the stripes on the fuselage are not cut for the registration. HK listed to the complaints ! Great thank you !
Update after unpacking and looking at the model in detail: there are separate stickers with the registration markings. There are 2 aluminium (Aluminum for US people) tubes a thick and a thin one that will go in the fuselage on which the wings will slide on, the thin one was crushed a bit, so it won't fit in the carbon tube glued in the fuselage. Minor flaw, will take a carbon tube for this one. There are 2 seats, but only for the rear, but you have to make your own dashboard/cockpit. All in all: good value for your money !
Choose any if standard servo with good reviews will do. Park servos can also be used but you need to stick a small plywood to the servo tray in order to mount the park servo. I have never used standard servos on planes at this scale up to 2.1m wingers. No issue with torque. Park servos are lighter and could deliver almost the same power as that of a standard servo. Use metal gears for gas or nitro powered planes. Use digital servos for precision flights (which I think is unnecessary) else analog will do. Digital are more precise but they consume more current. This drains your cells faster. The cheap ones tend to fail early. I use analog for throttle (gas engine), and rudder. The rest I use digital. All servos are metal geared on my planes as I feel safe with them.
I am having problems trying to pick out the right servos for this plane. I know it says what to get, but there are so many to choose from. If I can get the name and the part number for them then it would be so much easier to look up. Thanks Brent
I use 4 wing-mounted servos (2 for flaps 2 for ailerons):
Turnigy TGY-9018MG Metal Gear Servo 2.5kg/13g/0.10
Product ID: TGY-9018MG
And 2 standard size servos into fuselage (fits exactly into holes) for Elevator and Rudder:
Turnigy TGY-4409MD Metal Gear Digital Servo 9.45kg / 0.11sec / 44g
Product ID: 9295000008
Thanks so much for the reply.
I do intend to use at least 4cell 3300mah (hve lots of these) nanotechs. Sorry I forgot to also mention that I would hopefully like to do some towing of my club's gliders... As such, would the recommended 3548-840kv sk3 be enough? Or would sk3 42-40 640kv or 42-50 500kv be better? Am dying to order the whole kit now.
If you wish to have a bit more power for towing gliders then yes,the SK3 42-40 640kv would give that bit extra and with something like a 14 x 6 prop should give you around 700w so should be good (and its in stock!)the 42-50 would have also been a good choice but this is not available at the moment.
Really want to order this, but am confused on the power system required. I understand it needs a more powerful engine than stated. I am totally NEW to electric, coming from glow.
Can anyone recommend me a powerful enough motor (Link in hobbyking) and a matching ESC?
Had a look,yes,whilst the recommended motor is adequate you could do with a bit more power.I think the Turnigy SK3 3548-840kv and a Plush 60amp ESC would be a good choice.The model will fly best on 500w or more,if you use a 4 cell lipo with a 12 x 6 prop you will get around 650w with a current draw around 47amps.If you use a 3 cell lipo then with a 14 x 8 prop you will get around 550w and will be drawing approx 54amps.
Just received mine today, package is perfact and no any damage. The quality looks good, I plan to use 4260 600kV wiht 4cell 4000mA, 60A ESC and 14x7 propellor
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Good morning dear friends all. I have received mine today and it looks wonderful! Unfortunately on one wing the 2 servos wood covers were missing...I hade to build a couple of mine. Assembling seems to be long and instructions are quite incomplete but we can go on till complexion without stop. I do not agree with the suggested 35-40 engin, so I am going to mount a 42-40 500kv. I am sure it will fly in a very emotional and reallystic way. I will be back to you as it will do his first take-off. Ciao everybody. Dario
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The Beaver misses the mark in the scale category. I had to make new doors to make it look a little better. The rudder was converted to pull-pull because the push rod came out at an unacceptable angle. The flap hinges look a little puny but the held up on the first flight. I added 7 oz of lead to the nose which brought the cg to 70mm. She is a great flyer and I look forward to many more flights. Well worth the effort.
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Maidened mine yesterday,all good,I fitted an ASP 61 4stroke and 12x6 3 blade instead of electric motor, plenty of power but am fitting floats now I have it trimmed out so power should be right,needs rudder in turns (flat bottom wing), recomended C of G about right.Flap mounting system a bit ordinary but seems to work OK. Happy.
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I received my Beaver two weeks ago and am very pleased with the quality of the ARF parts. I had an E-flite Beaver for several years which finally met its demise at my hands - an old age moment - I didn't have enough airspeed during take off. I was expecting to receive a 98pcnt copy of the E-flite beaver but found that this Hobby King Beaver is it's own kind. I appreciate that it has about a 1 to 2 degree wing dihedral and hope that it will be a more stable flyer. I also agree with some of the other owners that I will be more satisfied by installing a larger motor; a 42-50 700kv motor. Although the instruction manual is adequate, it could have provided some more detailed info. The solid aluminum wing anchoring bolt although impressive, I still wondered why they were not made of nylon? Also the flap hinges were very light but I went with them because there are four hinges to each flap section. There is an impressive amount of room in the cockpit and because the installation of the electronics and finally the battery must be made through the large (4) cockpit doors I really don't anticipate a problem. I have a very realistic pilot, also a HB purchase, to install on one of the two provided seats and although I will have to put a couple of 'cushions' under him because he is a bit small, he will really add to the scale appearance of the finished Beaver. I have a set of skis on