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The Hobbyking SS series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play.
A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. mosFET rating on this ESC is around 34A, however we suggest you keep current to no more than 30A, as you should with any ESC.
Spec. Weight: 22g Size: 24x52x6mm Cells: 2-3S (Auto Detect) Max Current: 25A Motor type: Brushless Burst: 30A BEC: 3A
i have this esc hooked up to a bixler 2, today suddenly my motor stopped in mid air, now it doesn't let me control the throttle, when i power up, it gives me the beeps, that its armed and ready to fly, but when i try the throttle, it doesnt work, all the servos are working fine, i tried to reprogram it according to the manual, beeps are ok, i power up the tx with max throttle and then rx , then when i hear first 2 beep i lowered the throttle, and it gives me the beep that its armed, but still no luck, throttle wont work, when i max out it give me a loud long beep, when i lowered it, it gives me a short beep, what is wrong with this, is my esc fried, how can i know that, i didn't change anything in my transmitter , it just happened in mid air, im using turnigy 9x
I would try hooking up another motor and see if its the motor its self sometimes while flying the motor burns out and you don't see the motor smoke if it works on the other motor then its your motor if not get yourself a larger rated esc because your motor is larger than the esc can handle
im using the motor that comes with bixler 2, recommended esc is 20A, so i guess this is more than enough, right now i dont have any other motor around to test, but i will, but motor is stuttering when i give throttle, it just doesn't rotate. i know that beeps come from the motor, so if my motor has burned out, does it still gives the beep sounds?.
Hello Lahiru, sometimes and often too frequent it is that motor ratings aren't properly printed. Bixler motor needs a minimum of 35A continuous current unlike the mentioned 20A. Same happened to me that I used this ESC not that on Bixler but on a EDF rated at 20A and it got overheated on the first run and now it's beeping at the lowest throttle but with no rotational response. It perhaps mean the ESC's busted! Try your luck with atleast 35A ESC and rest assured that everything goes fine :)
And yes, do specify which outrunner have you implanted on Bixler yet. It really depends on how well you match your Motor & ESC for a good and lasting performance. Hope this helps. Do credit if found worthy :)
well, in that case, does the stock motor come with any current rating other than what specified on the HK's page for Bixler?
I think the best will be that you try with this ESC and check it's all the same.
Hi
I've just bought a new one of these. It won't let me get more than about 1/2 throttle before suddenly cutting out. Reduce to zero and ramp up again - same story. Plane is a Bixler 2 with factory motor.
Can anyone help???
Thanks in advance.
Try calibrating the throttle range. 1. throttle to max on Rx. 2 Power up Rx and esc. 3 On first beep quickly lower your Tx throttle to min. 4 Unplug Rx and esc. 5. Restart the system.
Also would help if you do a stick centering on your Tx before that.
Thank you. Have tried that, no change. However have just found motor is loose (from factory) and has fallen out of motor mount. I managed to destroy the mount in the process....
Hello Jazzbass. Please note, Bixler's motor rating could be possibly misprinted. It's been the same story elsewhere. Try HK 35-40A ESC with it and check if it runs good. It might not be a case of programming, but rather a Motor-ESC mismatch.
But remember, HK 35-40 ESC is only suited for motors with 2000KV or below.
Hope this helps. Please credit me if found worthy :)
I have a quad with these esc and dt750 motors with a KK2 Flight controller. Flew that for a month before I flashed these ESC with SimonK FW. Flew well before flashing and large improvement after flashing. Response is more crisp.
no buddy.. m using this esc and i didnt get it with the female connectors (ESC to motor) attached and not even the ESC to battery connector... u'll need to find suitable connectors for connection with motor and the battery..
I purchased some D2830-111000/12921 D2830-11 1000kv Brushless Motors and some RB30-ESC/18004 HobbyKing Red Brick 30A ESC to make fans with variable speed, but I dont know what I need to make the speed vary. There is a very small plug with a 3 wire connector on the ESC .. dis this for a potentiometer .. if so what value/ohms ? I don't need the fans to go very fast i.e. about 25% of their normal speed will be fine. I also need 140mm fan blades to fit the motor if anyone can help.
Hi William
Unfortunately a plain potentiometer is not enough to run the ESC, you need something like a servo tester (available from HK search Servo tester)
Hi, you cannot vary the speed of the motor with a potentiometer. The easiest way to control the speed of the motor is to use a servo tester, search for Hobbyking Servo tester. You can also use an 8 inch prop as the fan blade.
Just put one of these in an mx2 . On the second flight motor stopped but still landed ok . The speed controller was fairly warm but not hot when I checked it , so thought the battery must of not been fully charged and thought nothing of it .
Tonight put fully charged battery in but am not getting any beeps at all from speed controller and the motor seems to make a clicking noise every second or two , but wont turn .
We tested the motor and it was drawing 26 amps under full load . I was only flying half throttle so thought we would be well within the limits of this speed controller .
Any thoughts ???
I am having the exact same issue. The only way I could find a solution is try and turn the prop while low throttle (with a chop stick) and it starts (for a little while anyway). There is definitely something wrong with this ESC. I have since switched to the Turnigy Plush ESCs and don't intend on going back to the HobbyKing brand. Hope this helps.
Of the motors that I have used, when they have been supplied with connectors, it has been these.
Those 3.5mm PloyMax connectors are pretty good, I usually add a couple of packs to orders, to keep some stock.
Hope this helps.
Hi TARIK, the leads come with bare tinned ends. So solder and heatshrink is the solution.
Simply connect the three leads on the ESC to the three leads on the motor, in any order. If the motor turns the wrong direction, swap any two leads.
Hope this helps.
any ideas about this problem - using Hk ss 25a esc. Have sorted out programming & esc runs motor gr8. But as soon as motor is given power aileron/throttle stik on tx stops working ailerons and will work only from trim when motor is under power. have tried different brand motors and rxs - problem is same. If motor is not given power from tx stik ailerons work fine from same stik. Ailerons also work under motor power from rudder slot on rx. So problem is only when ailerons and power are on shared tx stik.
You most probably have some mixing in your Tx, clear all mixing on tx and try again. Esc have no influence on your Tx/ Rx system. It only receive signal from the Rx and control the motor.
Alternatively, put the AIL in your RUD slot n program your TX to output AIL there. Going with what eddfoo mentions, you might want to setup a brand new model with zero mixes and start from there. The only time powering the motor affects any servos is when the motor draws too much current n not leave enough for the servos, thus needing an external BEC for the servos. Cheers!
Both Brushed and Brushless motors are Electric Motors.
In a Brushed motor the winding will be rotating which are on the shaft and the electric energy is conducted through two stationary brushes to a rotating winding. To change the motor Speed, The Speed controller changes the voltage fed to the motor.
In a Brushless motor the winding are stationary and the Electric filed is rotated among the windings by the speed controller, there by rotating the shaft. The speed can be changed by changing frequency of the electric current fed to the winding, which is done by the Brushless speed controller.
So both Speed controllers are different.
Hi people, I dont know how to plug this into the motor and there is no docs that I can find thats tells you what wire is for what. I dont now why there is no manual for this thing, can anyone help?
Thanks.
Hi Lee, mine didn't come with a manual, either, but you'll find it under the files tab above.
Three BLACK ones up the other end go to your motor, in any order (if you wish to reverse the motor direction, swap any two leads). RED and BLACK, on the other end go to your battery power. Finally the servo plug goes to your flight controller or Rx. On that plug, the RED gives you the plus5V from the BEC (to power your gear), BLACK is GROUND and white is the wire that controls the speed that ESC will make the motor go.
Hope this helps.
QuadSB said almost everything, you must weld the terminals of the battery into a XT60 or a T-connector, and the motor terminals you mus weld to come connector such the PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors..
basically .. you have to solder some bullet connectors or , just solder it directly to the motor.
there is no meaning regarding the order that you connect the ESC to the motor. just connect and if it spins in the wrong direction switch 2 cables , doesn't matter what cables.
note that you have to isolate the connectors , sort circuiting will fry the ESC
My initial thought was that you were overloading the ESC at full throttle, and overheating it. But I had a quick look and that kit was supplied with 30A ESC's, so these should be OK.
Perhaps you are right, it was just a bad batch, that's pretty unlucky, though.
Whilst these are a great entry level ESC, a more solid unit at a comparable price is (PRODUCT ID: F-30A). I now use the 20A version with SimonK on my little quad.
Hope this helps.
Well maybe I had a bad batch i checked last 2 of them and same story . Attached lipo and bang mosfet fried last one fried engine after spining up and down three times and the fried .
OK those ESC are ****. I bought 4 of them and when i wanted to calibrate throttle range i connected it to motor and RX gave full throttle connected LIPO and bang all mosfets fried. Second ESC Blow up when i connected fresh battery and it make a short cut on input and LIPO exploded.... SO better buy other ESC than those.
The new ss escs are no longer as powerful as before. I can really tell that because I fly 3d foamy and power to weight is a big issue. The old used one that I've sold to my newbie friend got way more power and he's doing waterfall over my head. On the other hand, I'm struggling to recover on low altitute mistakes.
Whats wrong with the ss? Cost cutting has brought down the quality and what else should i go looking for?
there are three setups.
put throttle stick to max power and turn on the battery
first –* Lipo *peep* - *short pause* - *peep*
second –* Ni-XX *peep*peep* - *short pause* - *peep*peep*
third –* Brake *peep*peep*peep* - *short pause* - *peep*peep*peep*
when you hear the bibs by the second time, just put the throttle stick to idle on the
required setup.
repeat the steps to all the configurations.
How do I do throttle calibration of this ESC? I noticed that one of the 4 esc's (this model) I am using on my quadcopter is rotating slower than the rest causing the quad to spin in one direction. I have re-calibrated the accelerometer several times (on APM 2.5), so it is not related to that.
Turn on your transmitter and set the throttle to the max. position. Then, plug in your battery. It will beep once and beep once again. Then, it will beep twice. Set the throttle to the minimum before the second time it beeps twice. That will probably work. If it doesn't, try re-calibrating it after you do this.
Hello! Technically it's possible, but there are no programming pads, so you'll have to solder to MCU pins directly. I suggest F-20A or F-30A instead. The price is comparable, but you'll have a pads to solder to.
Actually the answer maybe YES and NO.
I have some older ones that I flashed to SimonK, with no worries. They were pretty great! When I was looking to get a couple of spares, I read that there is new PCB and looking at the pics in the files tab, it is different to my old ones and does actually have some pins broken out to a group of pads. I also read, however that some batches may have the reset pin disabled on the mcu which prevents flashing. I don't have the new ones to confirm this.
That said, I second Alexander's tip for the F-20's. They are pretty solid little guys, and have all the pins in a row up one end, so if you are careful you can slice the shrink in the right place and do the job, without stripping and replacing the lot.
The downside is that the F-20's are about twice as heavy as these SS30A's).
Hope this helps
pluged a battery into the esc with a 3 cell lipo and turnigy 8ch rx with the esc plugged in on ch 3 and i go to turn the throttle up the motor will spin slowly back and forth for a few seconds and make a grinding halt sound. ESC and Motor get rather hot. I did the calibration and talked to a hobbyking tech who seems to think its defective but i would like another opinion from people that have the ESC. Any suggestions? Thanks guys.
Looks like one of the wires from the motor is disconnected. It could happed on PCB (defective switch or PCB trace), soldering connection to the wire, connector to the motor or one of the motor's winding can be torn as well.
Also, I had such an issue when two conditions are met - very cold (-10C or below) and the snow/water got into the ESC. This kind of problem was solved by itself when the ESC dried (this ESC burned after a few flights when the snow got into it again, lol). Anyway - try another motor, if the issue remains - the problem is with ESC for sure.
Can anyone who actually owns these ESC's confirm whether or not they are calibratable? I have followed the steps out there (see my previous question) but cannot get them to calibrate. The programming steps work fine however. I've been adjusting the PI settings on my KK2 board (for a quadcopter) but cannot achieve stable hover and I think these ESC's are the culprit.
Thanks.
Hello! Stability can not be worsened by uncalibrated throttle range. The only thing can happen - when you increase the throttle rapidly, the quad would bank to one side, otherwise would fly fine.
I had these in my tricopter, changed over with F-30A to increase current capacity a bit, and found no difference. What are your stability problems? Do you tune without autolevel?
Essentially I cannot maintain a stable hover. I've gone through and started tuning my PI values per the manual but nothing I do enables stable hover so I cannot get to where I can fine tune the settings. I've already done the basics of confirming motor rotation direction. Confirming propeller orientation and that the pushers are on the correct motors. I simply cannot get it to hover. I broke off two landing struts this morning trying to tune the PI values.
Yes, I tune with autolevel turned off and my reciever channels zeroed and cofirmed via reciever test. Also, I'm new at this but it seems contradictory to noobie logic that the ESC's not being calibrated wouldn't affect flight characteristics. Wouldn't uncalibrated motors result in more or less thrust than is required on one side and result in poor flight characteristics?
Yes, it'll start this way. But as soon as you start taking off, the controller would compensate the difference because of I gain, resulting in equal speed of the motors. It seems for me, that your gains are too low, so the quad is uncontrollable. It doesn't wobble, just doesn't react the control input correctly, right?
You may add me on facebook - username a.u.khoroshko, it'll be more convenient to discuss.
Pretty cheap and good value for money. Decently priced and great performance. Highly recommended. Easy to program using sticks. Information provided in the leaflet.
6 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Elin Hristov
likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
160 thumbs up!
It is what it says - Super Simple Here are the instructions: Always start with throttle off, except when programming - then at full throttle! Remember to check for channel reverse! 1. Turn on TX. 2. Set full throttle 3. wait for the beeps - 3sec after the first initial beep: (move throttle to off position during pause to select setting) 3a. beep, pause, beep - Li-po (cut-off 3v per cell) 3b. beep, beep, pause, beep, beep - Ni-Mh (cut-off at 60pcnt of starting voltage) 3c. beep,beep,beep, pause, beep, beep, beep -toggle brake enable/disable Glad to have it, will by more. Cheers.
11 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Trance183
753 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
79 thumbs up!
This ESC works perfect up to 30A. Nice linear throttle. But I WARN you now, I bought on Sept. 28, 2009 because I needed a 3A BEC. After testing it on my Watt Meter it only has a 2A BEC. It cuts off and resets at 1.89A using 6 HXT900 servos. Minus 1 for wrong Spec. Other than that, great bargain. Also vote plus1 on this review to let others know about this mistake. Thanks.
14 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
Jaroslav Rehurek
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49 thumbs up!
Tento regulator je opravdu SUPER. Bez velkeho programovani bezi s mnoha stridavymi motory. Plyn je linearni v celem rozsahu. Zkousel jsem ho s motory Mystery 2632-800 a 2930-1000 a s motory KD 22-20L a vzdy plny vykon bez probelmu. V teto cene se neda sehnat nic lepsiho. Neni k nemu navod, ale programovani je jednoduche: Jedno pipnuti - LiPol, dve pipnuti - Nixx, tri pipnuti - brzda. Programuje se stazenim plynu na minimum.
1 comment. Reply..
Overall Rating
DMA, USA
likes
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UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
28 thumbs up!
This is a no frills ESC that works great. I have tried it with both inrunner and out runner and both worked equally well. The programming is cell type and brake on/off. I have tried it with several Suppo outrunners and a 4100kv Himax ducted fan all run fine with this esc. Just cant beat the price on these!!!
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