Tired of all those electric planes infesting your local club? This high-rpm huge power glow engine can swing a 15x6 prop with ease. No need to worry about expensive batteries here. Just re-fuel and you are off flying again.
Scream through the sky all day with our 120 size 2-stroke glow engine.
I got it a week ago and I'm currently breaking it in on the test stand. First attempt to get the motor running failed, the low idle needle was set way to low, High RPM needle valve just gave me problems and I replaced it with an OS I had in the parts bin. So far so good, motor has lots of power but it's still needs some adjustment on the needles. I've run about 20oz of fuel on the test stand, lets see how the next 20 go.
I'll post the results in a couple of days.
I ordered This motor the 120AR and I got the 120A. there both exactly the same except the 120A has the ASP logo on the side and comes in a nicer box. :)
17x7 is the normal three blade prop( Diammeter less one inch and pas more one), but The best way is to test other as 16x8 or 17x6 and analise RPM and flight performance.
have you set the small needel inside the carby all so fuel tank may need foam around it to stop bubbles, in side fuel tank pluss run exzast nipel to tank can help if its small needle will show up on throtel transitions from ideal ie too lean motor will stop if you through carb open quickley but, if hesitated in transition too rich ver small adjustments 1/8 a turn f plug sweet hope helps
am having trouble getting this engine to run consistently. It starts and runs fine for about 1 and 1/2 minutes then just dies. I have replaced the tank and fuel tubes, tried no 8, A3 and F plugs and also 5% and 10% nitro, and still the same. Anyone got any ideas?
It cuts out even when running at above half throttle. I have tried 5 differnt plugs. New fuel tank and lines. 5 and 10% nitro. Castor and synthetic fuel and it just will not run for more than 2.5 minutes.
mdryen I guess there could be an airleak on the engine's crankcase. Try to put grease to the frontbearing (from both, inside and outside) and renew the gasket on the backside of crankcase with silicone gasketmaker.
I agree with the silicone gasket maker. Permatex works great. Wipe off the excess that squeezes out. Pull the whole motor down and oil and grease it as you put it back together. Then I run the motor for a minute or two with a starter only on the prop cone. Put a little extra mystery oil in the carb hole and glow hole. If you get too much, it can seal the motor from turning over. Just run enough so the oil gets to the muffler and yo u can dump it from there.
Hi there, I dont think stripping down and resealing should be necessary for a new engine. They should run out of the box. I tried everything, 5 new plugs(different heats) various fuel mixes(and of course what I run in everything else)and new tank, fuel line etc and tank position. i am now going to return the motor.
I'm seeing a lot of reports of dead sticks. ASP had a troubled reputation to start with, but they are now made using CNC machining, as per al the reputable brands. I suspect at this price you need to tune the top-end AND THE IDLE - you don't get factory presets! I also suspect a lot of the people having trouble don't know how to do this. If you don't know how to adjust the idle, get online and find out. It's not rocket science, but you won't get anywhere without that knowledge.
hello I agree with you. Some of the engine runs for 5s and then stop. I have bought some of this engines from HC, and they all had idle adjust far out (to rich). Had to turn clockwize at least one turn (leaner), before adjusting the main screw (top end). I currently have two planes with ASP120 2t and they run fine after adjustment. (The idle adjust is on the other side of the main adjust, and is a little screw in the middle with a small hole in.)