The Turnigy K-Force series are based on an all new powerful microprocessor.
The new CPU means ultra fast sync timing, crisper throttle response, less battery load and reduced FET heat buildup.
Output: Continuous 100A, burst 150A up to 10 seconds. Input Voltage: 2-6 cells lithium battery or 5-18 cells NIMH battery. BEC: Switching mode DC-DC regulator. 3A@5.25V or 3A@6V switchable by user progromming. Control Signal Transmission: Optically coupled system. Max Speed: 2 Pole: 210,000rpm 6 Pole: 70,000rpm 12 Pole: 35,000rpm Size: 70mm (L) * 34mm (W) * 16mm (H). Weight: 82g.
*High performance microprocessor (24khz) brings out the best compatibility with all kinds of motors and the highest driving efficiency. *Wide-open heatsink design to get the best heat dissipation effect. *Improved Normal, Soft, Very-Soft start modes, compatible with aircraft and helicopter. *Smooth, linear, quick and precise throttle response. *Throttle signal transfered through optically coupled system to avoid the electromagnetic interference. *Multiple protection features: Low-voltage cut-off protection / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection *Governor mode for helicopter. *The firmware of the ESC can be updated through the USB adapter. *User programmable via Tx, Programming card or pc USB port. .
*Not compatible with non K-Force esc programming card.
Hi Guys! i would appreciate your help so much if you can give me your input on this! I have a Seb-art Wind S 50e, along with O.S 5020 - 490 brushless motor and Hobbywing 80a Pentium ESC.. Well here is my problem.. When i give the engine throttle quite fast, at some point it makes this horrible screeching sound. It stops after a second or so.. And if i take the throttle up slowly it doesnt screech. but a 3d plane aint much good if you cant play your throttle for prop hangs etc.. So here i am, looking for a different motor, esc etc. However i would really appreciate if someone maybe has some info as to what is going wrong with my setup? As i dont want to spend more money and still have the same problem. Some said i should set the Timing on the ESC. Did this at all three positions - however it hasnt solved the problem. Anyone else have some advice please? Can this be fixed, or should i buy a new motor / ESC?
Hi Gomer. Thanks for your reply. Like i said i have already adjusted the ESC's timing to all possible settings, yet the problem persists. However someone else has came to my help recently, pointing out that i was pulling too many watts on the motor with the 16x8 prop and 6S battery i was using. Apparently i am at like 2000watt(which will fry the motor..), where i only need around 1400 for this plane to fly F3A. Have not yet had the chance to try the fix though(which is basically to swap the battery to a 5S or downsize the prop to 15x8), but will hopefully get a chance the coming week. I will reply here again if this solution works. I'm new to the electric stuff, looks like i still have lots to learn! :-) But thanks to guys like you who take the time to reply really helped me out a lot. Thanks.
Marco bom dia, poderia me mandar a sequencia para configurar esse esc pelo radio?!
o meu quando comprei ele veio com aquele freio motor quando desacelero. preciso tirar isso e deixar normal.
por favor me mande um email com as instruç*õ*es.
Este esc e maravilhoso uma boa lenta de inicio muito forte robusto e ja estou com varios voos de teste e e muito agradavel, sua configuracao super facil de fazer no proprio radio adorei 5 estrelas para ele.
I take this controller for an CopterX 600 Pro (same as T-REX 600 Pro) with the original CopterX Brushless Motor 1100KV, but the controller overheat after some minutes. The controller is than very very hot! Some nows an solution? In my HK600GT with the Turnigy 1100KV Motor it works fine.
Thanks for help
Yea I hear ya mine did the same after flying 4 lipo packs but without burning anything up, it just stopped working right on my turn to come in for a landing...lost all control and watched it crash...6s 3300 25c packs and around 75 amps...that F-22 was so nice it had the 10 blade DPS unit in it. BEC is garbage in this ESC!!!
I crashed my 500 because of a cyclic servo burned. all replaced by Align one. I do many flights with this ESC since. Since...nothing goes wrong. Now, i project to replace my 2 olds 3.0 turnigy 25C by Nanotech 3.3. Abording 3D flights....
hello, you can use heli hk 550 (or HK 600)with typhoon 600H helimotor * on my hk 550 I have mounted this parts and it is perfect (I prefer 15 teeth for pinion) servo are turnigy 1258 for cyclic and 1209 for tail.
You can use the Turnigy 2 in 1 Professional Program Box for Brushless ESC to update ESC firmware through the program box usb, but there is no option to change settings or get logs from that ESC, as it does not have such features.
I have put this esc on a F5b plane.
Gearbox is a 3,71:1 and motor is a HET700 2085kv.
Run with 6s 2650 45c.I have set the brake to hard but after some fly the brake functio it's came back to "no brake" during the fly... !!
This is a bad sign? This esc it's good for 150A 10sec. i have used it for 3-4 sec to 130A.
Help me please.Thanks
the TR_PC will not work with the K-force ESCs. it would be better if you get Turnigy 2 in 1 Professional Program Box for Brushless ESC (PRODUCT ID: T-PRO-BOX)it's slightly more expensive but alot easier to use that the TG-Prog card
I use the K-Force 100A's internal BEC on my 59" plane that has 4 Hitec 225MGs. I am using the default 5.25V output and have not tried the 6V output yet. If you are using high power digital servos, then you might want to check to see how much current (at stall) each servo use before using the internal BEC.
will this work well with the hk 600 gt? does it have a built in BEC? is it a good quality ESC. i am going to be using it in a 600 size heli and i dont want anything bad to happen mid air especially with a heli of this size
je l utilise sur une funjetultra et sur un avion sport accro...tres bon escape pour le prix le bec de 3A est trop juste pour les avion plus de 40er mais sur funjet sais bon..acheter la box 2en1pro sais un bonheur de la programer et la possibilite de changer la freq d echantillonage et facile avec..recommander sans doute
it does have a BEC that is rated at 3A, this ESC could hold up to 150A for 10 sec so you should be already, but if your doing heavy 3D then you should have a separate BEC for your electronics as a safety measure.
Im using this for my HK 600GT, just remember that the built in UBEC will not allow you to control an autorotation if it was to burn out, I would install a separate UBEC for safety
Note: a digital servo uses about 0.5 amp and an analog servo uses about 0.35 amp. 4 x 0.5 amp = 2 amps so if it spikes in hard manoeuvres you might over load it... food for thought :-)
You will have to go with a higher cell count and c rating with your batteries, thus giving you more rpm/volt. (eg) 1800kv/ 14.8volts (4 cell) = 26,640 rpm. 1800kv/ 22.2volts (6 cell) = 39,960 rpm and so on.
I have the 150A K-Force running on 6S, with the T600 1100kv motor. Default setting 12kHz and timing 15 degrees. Sport flying, motor a little warm and ESC barely warm. I have flown with this setting for weeks with no problem. I fly 9 minutes with two 6S 3000mAh 20C in parallel.
I recently changed the timing to 7.5 degrees and 8kHz, everything runs smoother without loss of power. After flying for like 6 minutes the ESC just stopped working for like 4 seconds and started working again. No brownout.
I set it back to the default values but it did this shutdown thing again. Motor and ESC still cool. I don't know what is wrong. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/images/em_c ry.gif
this is rated for 26v, also the turnigy t600-1100 is rated for 26v, the motor specs say 2-7s but the esc says 6s, other esc's rated at 26v say up to 7s... question is - I want to run 7s lipo on this combination, will wit work or fry the esc... I use a seperate ubec.
If this is going into a HK600GT, you need not change any of the setting in the ESC except for the soft start. Set it to the softest start listed on the papaer work that came with it. I am running this same setup.....HK600GT, Turnigy 100A ESC,Turnigy 600 1100kv with a 10 tooth pinion (needs a 13 tooth), and a Turnigy 5000 6s Lipos and it runs great with 10 min hover times and easy forward flights without it even getting warm. No 3D as of yet.
You may want to start out with a 10 or 11 tooth pinion and go up from there and see how hot your motor gets after running a few min. I have mine set with a 10 tooth pinion right now, but i am going up to a 12 tooth for a little more head speed since my motor and ESC does not even get warm after running. Timming default is 15 and will work fine and the 12khz is fine also. Just remember to check the heat on the motor and ESC to make sure you are not running it hot if you plan to run the 15 tooth pinion. Other than that, make sure to change the soft start to very soft so the blades dont kick back and hot the tail boom. If I can help any other way, let me know. Good flying.....
no, the K force 100 does not have a switch integrated, i personally own one and it is definatley worth the money. I have 150 flights on it and am pulling constant 105 amps plus from it. Just add CPU silicon to the MosFETS.
Can anyone tell me whether this esc will work with a 10 pole motor? I'm looking at using it with a Scorpion 3026-1400kv (10 pole) on 6S. I read that the switching rate is a lot less with the new version - and so only supports a low pole count on 6S... is this correct?
Is it possible to reverse motor rotation with this ESC? Corresponding Program Card does have such option, but when selecting it the motor still rotating wrong direction. The ESC programming manual does not have such option at all.
easier to swap any two of the three motor wires over, not sure which progrmmer card you have but i have the turnugy professional box and there is no reverse option in mine.. anyway its no drama to swap the wires unless of course you have soldered them in which case would be a hassle .. i used to do that but not anymore .. :-)
I use this ESC in the hotliner, motor soldered directly to the ESC. So it not so easy to swap the wires :(.
BTW, I had to resolder motor. This ESC does not have option to reverse motor rotation. The programming card also supports car ESCs which have such option.
It has a basic setup and with that you can most certainly fly.
what you might want to do is disable the brake (default I think is a low breaking force) or set the motor poles and other basic stuff.
I recommend the Turnigy Programming Card www.link for that. on Hobbywing you can get the correct printing, as the Card is printed with the "CAR" esc's options.
If you can't find the card use the ESC manual, it is like programming with
Easy setup just buy the hand controller its so cheap and its so easy .. no curve ball settigns just teh basics, theres plenty of info in teh forums abotu settings , in all i find it a really good speedy on a trex 600 with a 6s 5000 battery . no heat at all with settings suited to teh motor and pitch etc ... good buy i say. oh yeh .. it is default for helicopters ut it should run out of the box except it will hard cut yer speedy and you don't want that if yer flying 3d and not used to inverted ba
5 thumbs up!
You have to use "Turnigy 2 in 1 Professional Program Box for Brushless ESC" , it has USB www.link
4 comments. Reply..
4 thumbs up!
Just received K-F 100A from the last batch. It came with v1.05 firmware in it and the worst thing is that PWM is limited to 12 khz only. The other selection is 8 khz, where it used 24 khz. This latest firmware came with HW link v1.6 so I advice do not throw away a copy of HW link v1.5 if you still have it, because it contains v1.03 firmware where 24 khz is still selectable. Or do not upgrade the firmware in your older K-F esc if it has v1.03
What an awesome ESC! I am using this with 5s lipos and the SAPAC MB1 motor and fan. It provides the needed power, which can approach 100A. Be sure to get the programming card which makes setup so fast. This is the same esc as the hobbywing pentium, and great quality.