Woven Carbon Fiber Sheet 300x100 (1.0MM Thick)

 v_max 442 points

This 1mm stiffness comparable with 1.5mm glass fiber. Piece 50x20mm you hardly can break with fingers. it bend may be a bit more, but I can't break it. The same size of glass fiber I can break.

 v_max 442 points

With dremmel. I use conic diamond bit or usual drill for metal. Metal drill do not lasts too long, need to sharpen it after 2-3 holes. Diamong bit requires cooling each few seconds. Diamond makes better edges. When I need big holes, then I can use larger grindstone bit. Don't forget to protect eyes and langs. Dust is very toxic.

 v_max 442 points

dremmel , band saw or a jigsaw *) But use mask to protect eyes and langs. The dust is very toxic...

 v_max 442 points

Carbon fiber tissue? ID: CF003MQS

 Cinijar 2 points

I believe the carbon washers are still impregnated with something to hold the strands together. If you were to try and cut a washer out of raw carbon fibre cloth it would very quickly fall apart. OR the washers are made with a very tight weave to overcome this and the cloth found here is a fairly open weave so that it is compliant. I don't think you'll find what you are after here..

 thorian 138 points

It appears to be coated in resin. The piece I have on my desk does not appear to be conductive with my multi meter. I find aluminium works good for electrodes in electrolysis. Copper corrodes too quickly.

 Brian 1 points

Idk how long you've been in the HHO business, but aluminium is not good for electrolysis. Aluminum corrodes quickly! Use stainless steel high than 304

 viper1 62 points

Yes, I know..... ah, you want me to tell you!
It's 54 Gram, or 1.9oz.
Hope that helps

 viper1 62 points

And that's on the 1mm sheet. Please credit if satisfied with the answer.

 Bertrand 3 points

I wouldn't do that, you'll end up with splinters and frayed edges. 1mm cuts quite easily with a hack saw or for a better finish, a fine tooth razer saw. To avoid breathing the dust, I always cut CF wet.

 jpknobel 8 points

Scouring carbon fibre is very hard. as it is a fibrous material you want to cut it through with something sharp otherwise it will splinter etc like fibreglass does. i use a cutting wheel on a dremel (rotary tool) and it cuts it clean and quick

 y.o.r.k 23 points

Use a band saw or a jigsaw, but the sawtooth will not last very long *(. The best way is to cut it with a cnc-mill. ... and ALWAYS wear a FASE MASK

 Jonas 9 points

I use a electric jigsaw to. Works fine. To hard to cut with a knife.

 kevin 3 points

use the cutting wheel on dremal or similar,cover carbon in masking tape so you can draw on it.wear a mask,goggles as well as latex gloves as carbon dust is toxic.if you have heavy duty tin snips they work great for straight lines.

 littledevile420 7 points

i use my kitchen sheers. cuts very clean. then smooth with my dremel sanding wheel.(wear a mask!)

 Brian 1 points

Just coat the cut edges with CA so it doesn't peal

 Anton 6 points

this carbon fiber sheet works grat for making motor mounts for your plain its strong and vary light wight

 ANARIT-119 413 points

Ohk. But what is the grade?

 kostas 2 points

no its not

 kevin 3 points

dont forget to seal the edges with ca to stop the cf from delaminating.you can also polish the edges with metal polish for a smoother look after you put on the ca

 ElectricAussie 2789 points

As your building experience/skills increase you will find yourself making modifications to kits to improve strength, performance, etc. These CF sheets are used as raw stock just like balsa sheets. Unlike balsa, these CF sheets are bullet-proof yet light. They can be cut to make reinforcement plates for motor mounts, landing gear blocks etc. Most of the E-power kits coming out of Asia have weak landing gear mounts that need beefing up. If you do this before your 1st flight you won't have the fru

 Faruk Alyuz 8 points

very strong.

 Damian 86 points

Servo trays, aileron/elevator horns etc.etc. Jus use a good mask when cutting

 viper1 62 points

I think I know what you want to do, this would be perfect for it. The 0.5 mm is already so much stronger than balsa, does not compare really.
The stiffnes on 1mm would be stiffer than stainless steel, without the weight of course.

 tonystott 175 points

I cannot give you the math regarding the relative stiffness, but there is simply no comparison. The carbon fibre will easily exceed your requirements for stiffness. To give you an example. If you have a piece of carbon say 1cm by 10 cm, I doubt you could break it in your hands....

 thomas 2 points

thanks guys! i think that sums it up for me. i think i could use .5mm if they carried it.

 Kimmo 6 points

This is about the same hardness as dural 7000 series by feel (no real data) But would not flex as much as Al. Not for parts with constant bending, because it would eventually break.

 Stefan 11 points

preis leistung ist top

 Adam 7 points

30 Minute epoxy will work fine, I don't think that it has to be finish-cure... Is this for a structural element?

 Atom Smasher 39 points

Recommended to use laminating resin, it's somewhere between finishing and 30min resin.Finishing resin will work fine if youv'e got it. If you haven't then 1-2 hour epoxy will work if you thin it about 20-25 with medical grade isopropel alcohol (99 pure is best (From a chemist shop)30min will work if you only have a small area (Re-inforcing ribs/spar/undercarrage areas) to do, and you work quick! heat the epoxy as well and it'll thin out, but then you have to work very, very quick!

 _Sergey_ 11 points

Any epoxy is fine. You may want to sand off gloss from the plate before gluing or epoxy won't stick to it properly.

 vschouten 30 points

Any epoxy wil work. Just roughen the surface first.

 tonystott 175 points

CA works just fine too

 Matthew 3 points

I got mine end of December. It said backordered originally, but it came with the rest of my order.

 Fernando 2 points

yep... mid feb now

 Adam 7 points

Sorry for you wait.