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i think it would but this motor from my personal experience is pretty weak and that was with a 2s so if i was you i would look around at some other motors if you are only wanting to run 1s
This motor has to run with a sensored ESC. Got one with a sensorless ESC and the result is super bad cogging, slow reaction to the remote and slow speed. I'm glad they removed the video that went with it. The guy was putting it on an HG 45A sensorless ESC and had it running fine!!! Sure!
You can use 6-12 Cell NiMh but , in my opinion you should better use 2-4S LiPo as described at the specs because they are lighter , run longer time and are more efficient compared to the NiMh's .
I would recommend above 40A but depends on the vehicle you intend to use it and the amps that draws . I'm using it on a 1/10 monster truck with 60A ESC and draws 36A at full throttle .
Thank you ninhatech. I use this on a 45esc HK and it shuts off after 1-2min. I now need to step up to a bigger. I like the 80amp HK. The Vehicle is Losi XXX short course. with 16/88.
Thanks for your reply. However, I was asking about the diameter of the front bearing that stands out (protrudes) of the main housing and has a smaller diameter than the motor itself. Thanks in advance.
Hello!
help me please.
This motor will work with THIS
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__1797 9__Turnigy_160A_1_8th_Scale_Sensorless_ESC_w_Fan.htm l
OR THIS ESC?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7188 __Turnigy_Brushless_ESC_60A_w_Reverse_prog_v2_2_.htm l
I am running this motor with the Hobbyking sensorless 45amp ESC and am experiencing a large amount of cogging. Would this be fixed by installing a sensored ESC? Or is there something else I can do to make it run smoother without replacing parts? I am using it in a 1/10 touring car with 3300 nimh packs. The cogging was so bad yesterday that I couldn't get off the start line under full power! :(
it is a sensored motor so it is best to run a sensored ESC that will fix some of the problem but i would upgrade your battery to at least a 4000mah lipo, NIMH batteries just cant discharge enough power alot of the time on take off and that will be contributing to your cogging problem
Thank you for the informative reply, I had a feeling it was one or the other...didnt realise it would be both lol. With regards to batteries, the club I run at only allows 2 cell Lipo's maximum. I understand the 'Mah' (milli-amp hour) bit, but what does the 'C' rating mean? Some of them are listed as follows: '4500mah 20C 2S'. Its the bit in the middle I am unsure of. Is a higher number better? Your responses are much appreciated!
When you have an 4500mah 20C lipo means that the discharge rate from this batterie is: 4,5 Amp * 20= 90 Amps. When the C rate from the lipo is higher you can run stronger engines an your accupack will life longer!!!
I have a 35A ESC for my hobbyking 1/10 short course truck. but my motor has broken, so now i've to buy a new motor.
I doubt between this motor, the 13.5t and the same motor as this one, but than 11.5t. I want sometimes some good speed, but also drive very. very slowly, so with one click of throttle. So i think want to sensor it..
Which motor is the best for my car? (it's the same as the slash 4x4)
- The 11.5t ( i thought 3300KV) or - The 13.5t (3150 KV)
I'll run it on 3S.
I hope someone will awnser fast, so, which motor gives the best results and will accept my prefers.
it all depends on your gearing and your club regulations if you race in a club but otherwise i would suggest an 13.5t sensored but keeping in mind with sensored motors they can fail easier in a crash situation hope this helps
Well, I got this motor and like it but coogs at low speed take off. If I spend more for say Turnigy Mach2, would it be better? (unsensored).
I got other unsensored RCs and they don't coog much at all compare to this one. Any advice?
This motor looks a lot like the early Novak, especially the sensor/wire and timing ring setup. Someone commented about the output bearing size being larger which is also similar. Does anyone know if its a sintered rotor?
when you connect a sensor, it will give you more control at low rpm, making it easier to start moving. if you are running on 2s, you will not see much difference, but if you go with a 4s, it's hard to control it at low speed without a sensor. if your ESC does not support a sensor, you don't have to connect the wire and it will still run
Would the HK-30A HobbyKing ESC be enough for this motor running stock SC10 gearbox? The motor RPM are just right, ESC say 190W which is roughly 24A on 2S, but I'm not really sure.
if you will be racing, constant power, brakes,then it's not really enough, but if you're bashing, it'll work. that motor has a ton of speed, but no torque though.
Hi!
Can anyone tell me the pinning of the sensor-cable? Which pin has which function or in other words how to connect my selfmade ESC to the sensors (Pls dont explain function of the sensor I know what I'm doing). Just want to know where the sensors are and if I need any supply to them. OR... is it really only Hall-effect elements, not Hall-switches?
THX
Gnther
I've seen a sequence chart on Noak's site or on one of the forums...
A few of the wires do nothing & some are for temp & other misc.
It is a standard pinning, so if you can find what they are then it is a mater of finding the 1st pin...
The senders I believe you'll need to send a reference voltage out, 3.3v? I doubt 5v....
good luck.
Additionally to the last comment I found out, that sensore pins are open collector signals which need pullups (e.g. 4k7) to get appropriate signal values!
looking into the motor, this it not a super quality motor. however, at this price, it does not matter. will use this in a 1/10 monstertruck, and I will probably buy one more of this motor. I have tested this with a non-sensor ESC, works perfectly.
1 comment. Reply..
Overall Rating
Shane
26 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
1 thumbs up!
This is a wonderful motor. I run it on a 1/10th-scale RC car with a 19.8V battery. Like others have said, it barely gets warm. I measured the resistance to be 0.016ohm per phase. I use a custom sinusoidal field-oriented controller that estimates rotor position based on the sensors, so was great to find a sensored motor at this price!
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