Wired in series you'll get 4 cells 14,4 Volts. Wired parallel you'll get 2 cells 11400mAh If you want to charge/balance them at the same time you'll need to make adjustmenst to your balance connector, because it will only fit your 2 cell balance port. You'll need to change that and charge them connected in series to make your charger think it's a 4 cell. Better to charge them one at a time to be on the safe side.
I also bot this pack and had the same prob. The problem occurs because the batt. was left uncharged for quite some time. TRY and put some juice into it by connecting i.e another charged pack on it and leave it for a min or so. Then reconnect it to your charger. It sud work
Charge just the one cell on a trickle charge of 0.1A or 0.2A (you may need to put it into NiMh mode to keep the charger happy). Keep a close eye on it, and preferably outside your house in case the worst happens.
Hi, Im new on this mater so: I have 2 kits of this bat. and a ECO 6-10 200w balancer from HK. I see here that the max. charge is 5A. What the Amp. value to balancing and discharge? In the quick charge and storage charge use the same Amp than in normal charge? Thanks
No, the max charge rate is 5C, it means you can charge the battery at five times it's capacity. In this case its 5,7A * 5 = 28,5A. Personally i think it's a bit steep, I charge at 10A when I'm in a hurry, 5,7A otherwise.
Most manufacturers recommend a maximum discharge rate of 1C, which means you can set the discharge value to 5A. The same goes to balancing mode, because the charger will reduce its current in order to balance properly.
Quick charge is usualy set to a higher rating than regular charge. I don't discharge my lipos, but I have it set to 1 amp just in case (I never have the need to discharge) For balancing this batery , I have it set to 2.2amps, but It is safe to balance at as high as 5amps.
5.7amps is about 1c on this battery, so if I had a charger capable, I would feel safe charging at 2c (11.4amps), but no more.
and c rating is dependent on battery capacity.
the lead supplied is for charging only. You need to make a lead to connect the from one cell to the - of the other cell. Then the remaining and - connect to the terminals on the esc. Hope that was clear
It's done in series. i.e. the two batteries are wired from one batts positive to the other's negative leaving a positive open on one batt and a negative open on the other. Those are your positive and negative leads to the ESC.
5C for this batt means 5 x 5.7amps (or 1C). So yes it means 28.5 amps. However, good luck finding a charger capable of that feat!
While the batt's manufacturer claims they'll take it...it most certainly shortens the life of the batt. I'd still charge at 1C regardless of what the manufacturer says, unless you want to replace your batts more often than you HAVE to.
They can be used individually. Each cell is a single 3.7v battery, making 2s when wired together in series. (not 4s as i think you are suggesting) Each cell is 5700mah but by wiring them together in series you only increase the voltage, not the capacity
Pretty sure there is more than one cell in each pack, probably 2 or 3 in parallel, hence why I believe that a saddle pack battery can never really be totally balanced. How are the parallel cells in one pack balanced? not many think about this. Anyway just my 2 cents.
It is a set of two 1s3p batterys, with wires to connect them in series creating a 2s3p pack.
You can split them up and use them as large capacity 1s packs, but you can't split them up and have more 2s packs (safely/easily)
OK, call me dumb, but what the heck is a Saddle Pack?? - A box the battery is mounted in to protect it in a crash? - If so I know quite a few people who require them!! (But hey, even the BEST crashes from time to time).
Hey dumb*) As Chris says its mostly used in track cars both touring cars and buggys. In this case it is in a "box" aka hardcase its not really for crash protecion, but its better if you drop them or stuff like that:)
Basically a saddle pack is the name for a stick pack that was cut in 2. That way, it will better fit 4WD cars, that usually have some axels or a drive belt through the middle of the car.
The pack sit around the axels/belt like a "saddle"
You really need to connect the 2 in serie to get the 7.4V...
if i were buying any lipos now i would buy saddle packs, as even if you are running something requiring a regular stick pack you can always place them end to end to give exactly the same dimensiona as a stick pack- much more versatile!!!
Looks like a straight replacement for most NiMh or NiCd saddle packs. I am using it in a Losi XX4. Massive capacity, so top marks for me. The only criticism I have is that it doesn't come with the right battery connector. The connector that mine came with was a standard bullet connector with balance wire. There is no third jumper wire to link the two packs and there is no place to put the balance wire. Not a big deal as most of us already have the wires hooked up on our speedy, but just keep this in mind when you order in case you need to order some extra wire and connectors.
My first zippy. Too much height(31mm) for my buggy, a Hotbodies Cyclone D4. Removed the case to get it fit. Measures 4mOhms/cell(DC,1s), good 15C cells, not likely 25C. Discharges 5460mAh to 3.0V/cell, 95pcnt of norminal. Zippy doesn't compare to Turnigy.
ces lipo passe nikel sur le chassis yokomo D-max , il suffi de mettre 4 vis plus longues il reste 3-4 mm en hauteur sous la platine carbone haute centrale plus1h de drift !!
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5 thumbs up!
j ai achet ces accus pour le chassis D-max ils s integrent parfaitement , une fois les 4 vis remplaces par des plus longues pour etre bien cals , j ai mis un velcro (cot piquant) sur les 2 pates interne le lipo est nikel cal contre les pourtour et sa permet aux prise PK 4mm de ne pas frotter contre la platine carbne centrale haute pour utiliser le cable de charge fournis , remplacer le pk 2mm du fil bleu par 5 cm de cable et 2 pk 4mm