Hi I have a HK t4a tx and I bondes the RX that came with it and it is working fine. My question is when I bind the second RX I received today will I loose the binding to the first RX or both will be correctly binded to my tx á*t. The sane time ? I do not know what binding does so I cannot figure out.
You won't loose the firts one. Binding tells the Rx to "learn" and remember the ID code emited by the radio. It's a Rx modification, not a Rx mod. You can have several Rx responding to one Tx. Good luck!
Thank you guys now that I know bind altere the RX not the tx I can take some more risos with my models I was afraid of losing the RX and staying without a usados tx now with two RX the risk is gone :-)
My solution: Mix ch.1(left aileron) master to ch.6(right aileron)slave * 100/ 100, then assign VRB to ch. 5, then mix ch.5(master) to ch.1(slave) * 33/ 33, then mix ch.5(master) to ch.6(slave) * -33/-33. THAT did the trick! Now, I have total flap control, and aileron control using only ailerons! I couldn't assign VRB directly to ch.1 or ch.6- but this workaround works great! So I lose 1 channel(5)-but it works for me! Thank you Gerry01- you guided me in the right direction!
Superspit- I couldn't assign switches to "any" channel, they are kind of preset to their assigned functions.
William, you´*re right, I don´*t recall exactly how I did it, but I recall having the feeling that I had again a 4ch radio, because just to have flaps I had to burn 2 channels :-)
Thanks for the credit! I´*m glad to hear it's working.
I bought the FS-T6, but...I'm not able to figure out how to make "flaperons" work. Okay, I have the servos on ch.1 and ch.6 mixed, and 100% mix is on- which works for ailerons, but I need to drop both ailerons...can't quite figure out how. I'd LIKE to use the VRB control to adjust the flap pitch on both ailerons, but I'll need to make the "vrb knob" reverse on one of the servos..while keeping each sevo master/slave control for channel 1, 6.
All I know Will is that I can make my flaps variable via VRB A, and have them set to a preset to SW A. I'm sure what u need can be done, but this TX, as good as it is, does have programmability short-coming we have to live with. You may need to purchase a HK servo reverser to solve your issue...light, small and cheap as!
Its a boat Superspit. I will measure it (using multimeter) when i delivered those , but i was curious if i had made the right choice. why you say this(Gees buddy, you could be ***ping the curve with all that lovely gear...) you think its not the right choice?
PS: why i cant reply?and i have always to start a new post?
Standar customer only can open post, they can't replay. After you buy (I don't know how much) you will be allowed to answer. About your servos, you say you'll be using a 5v 1A BEC, be carefull because the kind of servos you use need more than that. One of my sailboats had a 13kg servo for the mainsail and took over 2A easily. For the 2 servos combined in your boat, I would use no less than a 3A UBEC. Also, bor better performance, you can solder the red and black wires in your servo with the red and black wires in your BEC* receiver pins don't work well above 3A. Of course you can start plugin them in and see if you get voltage drop at servo pins under heavy load. Good luck!
Superspit, you have actually answered my question.thank you. but i would appreciate if u know to tell me if the load is 2 specific servos: Towerpro MG946R 12kg 55g / 12kg / .20sec and the HXT 6.9kg / 39.2g / .16sec Twin bearing servo, plus a Multi-Remote Receiver operated on/off Switch to control some lights,what would be the max current draw. i am going to use an ESC with BEC at 5V,1A.
Gees buddy, you could be ***ping the curve with all that lovely gear...I hope you don't. But there is one way to find out...get yourself the HK in-line current meter (<>5 bucks) and you can tell total draw from the battery to the esc itself (with motor off). Not perfect but quite indicative. That might help more? As far as specific servo load is concerned, I simply don't know the parameters of each specific unit you described. Good luck!
thanks superspit for your reply. im more interested to know the current draw without load. now i need to find the current draw of each load cause i need accurate readings .... thanks again... i will though have the reading when i finally delivered the items...but anyhow
Christos, in all fairness, the reading was with and without a load (by which I believe you meant 'servo load', which in itself is difficult to measure as everyone's setup is different.) Please explain what you need and someone here may be able to help you better than I.
Sirgilder and Cabande I always run my little tail (Antenna) along the body and to date have had nil trouble. I always keep the receiver to the back of the plane and the tail (antenna) points towards the tail. I keep it a good 100mm from the battery and esc. If you have the tail (antenna) vertical then if you are facing away from you and going down then ?????? ???? As I said I keep my receiver away from my ESC and Battery.
This happened 5 times in the same configuration (landing).
I do not use the Turnigy voltage protector, but my receiver battery was a new one (2400mha) and fully charged.
I'm really wondering on the antenna position or receiver location.
I have one other same receiver on a shock flyer (3D, 250gr) wihout any pbs : the antenna is outside, and the plane is going not so far away ...
What is the recommend position of the receiver antenna and also the transmitter antenna ?
The position to avoid for the antennas is to have the one on the Tx and the one on the Rx parallel. So when your plane is coming for landing, if your Rx antenna is in the length of the fuselage and the plane coming to you, then don't point your Tx antenna toward your plane. I fly always with my antenna 90°* bent to one side.
The antenna in the plane should more or less see the outside. 2.4GHz waves go through a lot of material but not through carbon fibers! So pay attention to it, never put a Rx antenna inside a carbon rod. Beside that its working fine :)
I have a Turnigy 9X and was not able to control my plane during few seconds (during landing) untill I changed/moved quickly the transmitter position !
My receiver is located on the 4.8Volt receiver battery and the antenna is located in the aircraft axis...
I had bad experience with this receiver and I would like your opinion on this sort of problem.
Thank you. Cé*dric
Cabande so how many times did this happen??? Is it a one of?? So a lot thing can do this. I do have to ask are you using TURNIGY Voltage Protector (SKU: TURN-VP). Many RC systems now ship this with there Rc Sets. Was the 4.8 was it OLD, NEW, FULLY CHARGED. Try the 6v 5 x 1.2v Rx Pack. So many variables? See you at Members Forum may be!
TR6A-V2 odd behavior - using the T41- V2 that came with the bixler V1. The book that came with this rtf is pretty minimal and doesn't explain anything other than how to power up. Trottle range on esc - i am brand new to electrics and don't know how to do this procedure Taz007. Gerry01, not really sure where sound is coming from. NewToHobbyKing,reversed trottle switch on transmitter and i now have trottle function. Still don't get 3 beeps that the "manual" notes...but as long as it works. THANKS much to all you for your inputs. JC/usa
John the 3 beeps are normal. Sorry. It is the warning you that the ESC / Motor is "hot" (Hot as in ready to run. Watch your fingers). The beeps are made by the motor. The ESC sends the single to the motor and the motor acts like SPEAKER. You will get use to what sound is good (3 Beeps) and what sounds are not!
TR6A-V2 Odd Behavior - 4 beeps followed by other beep sequences that last for awhile before stopping with red led lit. Ailerons, Rudder, Elevator seems to work. Trottle doesn't do anything. Anyone know what the beep sequences mean that are emitted from this receiver? JC/USA
John what TX are you using? It sound as if you have the lever on full up or the throttle channel is reversed. So remove the prop and try reversing channel 3. There are some simple tests you can do but I need to know what TX you are using!
Version 1 of this Rx had PPM output wired to the BATT connector. If version 2 (the one in the picture) has the PPM output too, it's easy to do* but there are reports from users saying that this Rx doesn't have this oputput. The ground and positive cables are soldered to the USB GND and plus terminals (that feeds 5v to the Rx) and the PPM output is soldered to the PPM input pin in the USB sim adapter. It has to work if PPM output is there. I'll take a look at the v2 receiver tonight to see if the signal is really there.
I have often heard the same thing about the V2 version no longer having PPM on the batt connector. I've been meaning to check this for myself, but I have been too busy lately to pull out the old oscilloscope. I'm eager to hear your findings Gerry. :D
Taz007, sorry, I wasn't the one that posted the picture, I just answered because I've seen posts about this PPM signal and I was curious. So, it was not you, it just won't work! :-) Thanks for the credit!
Hi, many thanks for all the replies. The Rx was straight off the box and into the plane. The range test was done line of sight. The antenna was well away from the ESC and battery. The thing is I was flying the plane with the original Fly Sky Rx (which was in the Heli) same set up with no problems. Changed the Rx to try out HK Rx in the plane. As suggested by Kealyb I will try binding the the TX and Rx a few feet apart. Hope it will work.
It can be an antenna issue or a power source problem (defective BEC). Does the problem happen when you have the plane fixed in the workbench with the motor on? if it does it can be electric. If it doesn't it may be the antenna. What's the antenna location? What is the model made of? Do you have metal parts near the receiver?
hi gerry01 my plane is anx cloudsfly it works fine on the ground with motor runing. i have changed the esc and resever and still same problem .but i have instlled eageltreegardean flight controller when all this happend.can this be the flight controller.thanks for your reply'
A ground loop in cabling. I haven't come across that before, would you mind giving more info on how it's caused and how it's fixed. If possible, how would you diagnose such a problem. It sounds bad if it causes complete signal loss in only 10 meters. Never too old to learn :-)
It's common in FPV setups, or when you have more than 1 battery. The reciever, the ESC, the Eagle Tree, all are computers and make electromagnetic noise. The ESC powers the Rx, the Rx powers the eagle tree, eagle powers servos... it's easy to end up connecting a second power line somewhere else and doing a loop. A loop is something that can act as an antenna and feed EM signals into the Rx, ESC or controller power source. If noise finds a path to couple inside one of the components of the small circuit boards you may have undesired results. It was also a common concept in large data networks, back in the coaxial times, now with fiber optics you don't see that anymore. How to diagnose? kind of tricky... you can't diagnose it for sure until you fix it. How to fix? disconnect pieces one by one until you find what's messing around and see if it's a defective component or a looped connection. It may also be just a coupled interference, not a loop.
Well it certainly isn't common and if the cabling and noise generating equipment is separated correctly there should be minimal noise and ferrite beads can take care of most of that. For a system to bring itself to it's knees within 10 meters there would have to be something more amiss than generated noise. Why on earth anyone would require full telemetry plus FPV is beyond me.?Mixing technology from foreign sources such as "large data networks, coaxial times and fiber optics" gives me the impression you're clutching at straws. Since when did "coaxial times" finish? I use as much coax now as I did 40 years ago. Fiber Optics are used simply because of lack of noise, how is noise introduced with optical fiber? It's completely impervious to interference and I really see no tie in with large data networks. How any component would become "looped" I honestly don't know. Feedback I can understand and that's easily found. Any receiver within 10 meters of it's intended signal would have to be very sick to allow itself to be knocked out by the minute amounts of interference generated in a well setup system. May I ask your qualifications and time spent on HobbyKing? Fortunately I do know exactly what a "ground loop" is and I assure you it has nothing whatever to do with any factors you mention.
You're mixing 'ground loop' and 'feedback loop' concepts. Fiber isolates noise, coax propagates it. How are computers, data networks and RF equipment related about noise is something complex to be explained here. I am an electronic and electricist engineer, specialized in networking and telecommunications, and I have had correctly diagnosed and fixed noise problems in LAN, WAN, and RF enviroments. That's part of my work. I am the top support member of a group that manages more than 4000 routers and switches located in more than 400 cities covering 3 million square kilometers. Don't assume I'm bluffing just because you don't understand how a ground loop can be produced, go and get a book and read about it (google doesn't have all the answers). Why on earth anyone would require full telemetry plus FPV? you don't get 65km of flight with any FPV model if you don't pay attention to noise.
Also, I've been an RC modeler for 20 years, I have sailboats, cars, planes and helicopters.
Type your review here. Try to include as much data as possible. Just received the (2) HK-TR6A V2 & (1)HK-GT2R receivers that I ordered less than 2 wks. ago. All of the receivers bond with my Turnigy 9X V2 transmitter instantly and seem to work properly. Still need to do range checks but based on the other reviews that I read, I do not expect any problems. These receivers are so much smaller & lighter that the Turnigy 9 ch. V2 reciever. Only misses that I see is that the TR6A receivers do not have the notchs in the case for the Futaba type connectors and do not show the orintation (s -) for the connectors. The neg. (black) lead is oriented to side of the case (away from the label). These are probably the cheapest 2.4GHz receivers on the market. Will by more the next time that they are in stock.
I bought 3 of these and am very happy with all of them. They seem rock solid-glitch free.I use these with the Turnigy 9x radio and the V2 firmware and Turnigy module.They bind instantly with transmitter.They are so much lighter than the Turnigy 8 channel receivers.Turnigy 9x receivers work great as well but they are much to heavy for park flyers and smaller RC planes and Heli.Here is some advice for these new receivers.Take apart the case and add some hot glue to the antenna where it connects to the PCB board.I also like to add a little glue to the aerial unit by stripping off the heat shrink tubeadd a little glue to the inside of the brass tube and then center the wire while the hot glue sets up.I than will use some 4mm Turnigy heat shrink tube over the aerial and now it wont pull apart as easy in a crash and looks a little better with the Turnigy labeled shrink tube.I also color code for either planes or helis with different color tubing.I also advise that if you are using several of these that you bind each one individually with your transmitter set on the appropriate model in your model memory.Example you want to use this with model number 4 (HK 450 heli) on your transmitter.Before binding set your transmitter to model 4 than bind it.For best results only use this with model 4.If you want to use in a different model re-bind it.I have found they work slightly more precisely when you do this.Overall these are best combo of value and quality in the world today.Buy ten to
7 comments. Reply..
2 thumbs up!
Very simple to bind with Turnigy 9X V2. You only have to know, the bind cord goes into the Bat.port of the receiver for binding.
Heard a rumor that these worked with the Turnigy 9X so I ordered a handfull. They do indeed work with the 9X and are smaller and lighter than the stock receiver. Not a single problem any of the units thus far.
4 comments. Reply..
2 thumbs up!
Just for your information - I've range tested this receiver as well as the turnigy 9x receiver at a direct line of site with the plane on the ground an the antenna oriented straight up. All receivers were rock solid at 1.2 miles.
Unfortunately I can't get any farther away without going behind a hill so I don't know how far they will really go. 1.2 miles is plenty far enough!