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This great size Hobbyking Yak 55 has been designed with 3D flying very much in mind, made from virtually unbreakable EPP Foam, it is ideal for practicing 3D maneouvers over and over, get it wrong? No problem, the Yak 55 will just bounce and even if you do get it horribly wrong, 5 minutes and a bottle of Cyano & Kicker is all it takes to restore your pride and your Yak.
This is a superbly designed, top quality Almost Ready To Fly model that features a proper profile wing and extensive use of carbon fibre rod & CF square tubing for extra stiffness. The control surfaces are large enough for any Hard-core 3D pilot, but just to make double sure you are happy, the model comes with servo horn extensions for maximum throws. Big wheels that can handle almost any flying field & plug in wings secured with rubber bands for easy strip down and transportation add to the list of practical features.
The motor mount is pre-installed and will accept up to a 35mm brushlessoutrunner, the lipoly mount with pre-installed velcro strap is a perfect size slot for a Turnigy 1800mAh 3s and to do this brilliant model justice, we reccomend digital micro servo's all round. The Hobbyking Yak 55 fly's really well, so well that even if you are not interested in 3D flying, set it up on low rates and it makes a brilliant parkflyer. However you choose to abuse....sorry.....use your Yak, it's a huge amount of fun and at this price .........can you afford NOT to have one!?
Includes: All Hardware Color Photo Instruction Book
Required: 28mm to 35mm Outrunner Brushless Motor 1100kv~1300kv Reccomended Propeller: 10x4.7 SF ~ 11X4.7SF 11.1V 3S 1300mAh ~ 1800mah 4 x 9g digital servo 40A ESC w/BEC Your own TX & RX 4~6 Channel
can somebody please suggest me a good setup for this plane.. i have now a 30A turnigy and Turnigy L3010B-1300 Brushless Motor (420w) but seems to be very weak.. thanks
Hi Ethan, The L3010B-1300 should have plenty of power for this plane, as its rated thrust is 1650g. Max current on that motor is 40A, so you need at least a 40A ESC and a 1800mah/3S LiPo for that motor. Your 30A ESC is probably too small and you haven't said what LiPo you're using. Cheers, EA!
Hi Ethan, The 60A ESC will work great, the 11x4.7SF is a good prop choice for the motor, but the 1500mah/3S/20C has got to go. Fully charged it can only deliver approx. 30A (20C = 20 X 1.5A = 30A), so it is the limiting factor in the power equation. I often run 1800/3S or 2200mah/3S 25C-50C nano-techs on this plane and they work great. Cheers, EA!
Just try to balance the plane with two fingers put side by side besides it ailerons near the fuselage and where you feel the plane is approximately balanced that is the point of CoG.
Happy Flying.
Hi, i have my cog at 10mm behind the carbon spar, which is great for hovering and 3d stuff but if your flying it like a normal plane it needs to be 10mm in front of the rubber band, this worked for me when i first got the plane, i hope this helps you, From Chris
I plane on useing a Turnigy 480 850kv motor (I already had) in mine with 1500 batt. and 12X4.7 SF prop. , 32amp ESC. my prop calk shows about a 1.30 to 1 ratio. Do you think it will 3D well on this set up?
this plan is to literally battery of 1300 mah or 1500 mah 3010 engine prop 12/06 esc 45A flies perfectly in 3D completing all maneuvers, Holling Harrier, Snap to Hover, Tumbling, Hover, and more, for 3D maneuvers 1300mAh 1500mAh lasts 6 minutes 7 minutes. very good plan for uqem is learning to fly 3D.
you want some fun get that turnigy 3730a reverse the shaft man you talk about power 580 watts on a 12x6 prop 60 amp turnigy pluch esc 2200 nano-tech 35-70c heehee!
Hi! I'm completely new to 3D flying, and was wondering which transmitter and digital micro servo would work best with this (4-channel?) plane. Also, are there any other components I need to finish the build in addition to the motor, ESC, prop, and battery pack? Yes I'm that much of a rookie, I don't have a transmitter. :) Any product ID links would be very much appreciated! Thanks so much!
Hi Gary, The "4x9g digital servo" recommendation should be ignored. This plane is too big for 9g servos. I use 12g metal gear servos (PRODUCT ID: DS-929MG) and have not had any failures. Any good programmable 2.4GHz transmitter/receiver with 4 or more channels will do the job, but for 3D flying it should have "exponential" and dual rates as programming options. Exponential is used to soften the response of the sticks around the neutral point. When you first start to move the ail/rud/elev stick you get very fine/slow response which increases exponentially the more you move the stick. This allows very fine control for things like hovering/harriers but still gives full response for the radical moves. The Turnigy 9X (PRODUCT ID: TX-9X-M2) is a bargain and seems to get very good reviews. Make sure you order the correct mode (1 or 2) to match the radio you have learned on. I prefer Mode 2 (throttle on left), but if you learned on Mode 1 (throttle on right) you probably should stay with it. Cheers, EA!
almost forgot - batteries!!! What battery is better for this plane with Park480 motor? And btw "Turnigy nano-tech 1800mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack" wich is in recomended parts list is too big for battery compartment and seems like my motor requires more C than battery can offer. Suggestions, comrades?
Hi R&R, Most 1800mah/3S LiPos are 110mm long or less. For some reason the nano-tech 1800 is longer. Cut away a bit of foam if you're only a few mm too long. As for what LiPo is best for the Park480, I've been using 2 different packs: 1) Turnigy 1800mah/3S 20C (PRODUCT ID: T1800.3S.20) and 2) Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah/3S 25~50C (PRODUCT ID: N2200.3S.25). The Park480/1320kV, 40A BlueSeries ESC, 10x5 APC-style prop, and either of these 2 LiPos works great. Heaps of power and long flight times. The plane flies a bit better with the lighter 1800mah pack, but still flies great with the 2200. Cheers, EA!
Hi electricaussie I'm using the same prop and motor but it pulls 45 amps and the motors only rated for 35 amps will that be ok or I'm I doing something wrong thanks
Hi Andy, 45A sounds pretty high for for the set-up I'm using. Are you sure you're using a 10x5, or maybe it's a higher pitch (10x6? or 10x7?). When you start getting that far above the rated amps you have to monitor motor temp very carefully. If at the end of a flight it feels very warm, almost hot, to the touch you need to back off on the prop. I smoked 1 of my Park480s on a 11x5.5 prop and the motor was never extremely hot to the touch. The windings just slowly fried and then went all at once. Cheers, EA!
Hi electricaussie I've checked the prop it is a 10x5 I've tested it again it pulls 39amps not 45amps it's still a bit high, what dose yours pull with this set up thanks
H Andy, That sounds a bit better. I can't remember exactly what current I pull with my set-up, by I think it was around 37A-38A, so you're not far off. Cheers, EA!
I wounder which props you're guys using with this plane? I tried 11x4.75 SF and 12x4.5 SF but they're starting to howl on high throttle without any additional thrust. Another issue I met is battery checker readings. I have http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18987__On _Board_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_4s_.htm and for some reason it alrams when plane dives fast without throttle. Can rotation of prop cause any power consumption? Or maybe it's just voltage alarm's problem?
But have to say - regardles all those small issues it's GREAT 3D PLANE
Hi R&R, From your post above I'm assuming you're running the Park480 on your Yak55. I'm also assuming you have the 1320kV version, not the 1020kV. The Park480 1320kV is a great motor for this plane. I ran a 11x5.5 for a while but had the same problems you've described. A 10x5 APC-style prop cured the howling problem and produces just as much thrust as the bigger prop. Can't help with the low volt alarm issue. I have one in my motor box, but I've never used it. Cheers, EA!
Thx Dude, I was thinking about APC props too, will follow your advice. Now I start to think about new build - REAKTOR EPP. What is your suggestion for this plane?
Hi R&R, Thanks for the credit. As for the Reaktor, it's my daily driver and the best plane I've ever owned. I've owned planes that cost 20x as much and the Reaktor would fly rings around them. I'm actually flying my third Reaktor at the moment. Crashed one beyond repair, wore the other out and gave it to a young kid ready to begin 3D. Go to the Reaktor Discussion board and read down thru the posts to see my set-up. I gave up on the recommended motor and went with a more powerful/tougher motor. I'm about 60g over the stated weight range, but the plane still floats along at walking speed. The wing area is huge and the airfoil is perfect. No bad habits, tip stall, etc. You'll love it! Cheers, EA! P.S. I've got a video posted on the Reaktor page. See "Reaktor Maiden Flight"
Man, you're really helpful! Bunch of beginners gave up because they can't get essential info which is not obvious easy to find here, and some people just not very good in English to ask the question. Imho HK should grant you some reward for your efforts! And add more supported languages, such as Russian for example.
Thanx again and happy flying.
Finally got my 10x5 APC style prop and tested it - no more howling but it became significantly harder to hover. So I thinking about bigger prop. Something like 12x4 or around those
Any recomendations?
Hi R&R, Try upping the pitch to a 10x6, 10x7, or 11x5, but make sure it's a good stiff APC style and not one of the flimsy SF props. The Park480/1320kV turns really fast with lots of power and the cheap SF props that HK sells in packs of 5 just won't handle the power. They flutter/resonate which causes the howling problems. Cheers, EA!
Hi EA, plane with this prop has plenty of power, it was about hover and I think adjusting the pitch wont help to hover better. Just my opinion.
Did you try 11x5? What difference between 10x5 and 11x5? Will park 480 handle 12x5?
Best regrads.
I've used a 11x5.5 and it worked well, but had a little of the howling you experienced. I think a 12x5 is a bit too much for the motor and it would run hot. I haven't flown this plane for several months so the specifics are a bit vague, but I usually just play around with whatever props I have on hand until I find one I'm happy with and order spares if need be. Cheers, EA!
Hello, My model has the L3010B motor and flies well at 50% throttle or over, but below that it dives steeply and with throttle closed it starts to tuck under. Tried moving CG to both ends of recommended position, but no change. Any one had the same problem and found a solution? It would seem to be a wing incidence error, but cant see how that is possible with this model. Frank
Hi Frank, I have the whole series of EPP 3D planes (Yak55, Yak54, Sbach342, Reaktor) from HK and have found that they all fly great, but the thin symmetrical airfoil is touchy and the way you set up the ailerons is critical. If you're within the recommended CG range and you're trimmed set-up has you flying with a few degrees of down elevator, you probably need to relax the aileron neutral position up a bit. With the Tx/Rx power up and the trims zeroed, you should be able to lay a straightedge along the underside of the trailing edge area of the wing and see 1mm-2mm of daylight between the trailing edge of the aileron and the straightedge. The aileron should not be angled down at all. I've found that all 4 of my planes fly much better fast and slow with this set-up. I usually have my CG close to the back of the range. Cheers, EA!
Thanks EA, I will try your suggestion, it sounds a likely cure. I will let you know how I get on. I have an ex full size Yak55 competition aerobatic pilot helping to check it out on Wednesday, when I told him of the problem he stressed the importance of thrust line, wing and tail all being 0 degrees, so I am sure you are correct. Thanks again for your help. Frank
Hi ElectricAussie, just to let you know the Yak55 flew yesterday and is now fine. I already have a Reaktor which is why I was surprised to have the problem with the Yak. Thanks again for your help. Incidently, my ex full size Yak pilot friend has asked me to order one for him.
Hi Fly, Glad you got it sorted out. Don't you just love the Reaktor? It's such a great little plane! Flies better than any other plane I've owned, and it's so cheap you can thrash 'em and crash 'em and just buy another. Cheers, EA!
Hello guys! Do you know if spare motor mount is available somewhere? This plane(as maybe all models) can handle very well everything else but not head landings. You can land even using the wing *)
Hi Tuomas, I had the same thing happen to my Yak, but it was pretty easy to make a new motor mount plate out of a bit of s**** plywood using the old mount as a template. If you use a razor knife to cut along the CF stiffening rods about 100mm you can flex them out of the way to slide the broken mount out. Use it to size up the new mount. Slide it in and use epoxy to secure it and the CF rods. I used 4mm ply which is thicker than the mount that came with the plane. I don't think it will ever fail. Cheers, EA! P.S. I loved the wingtip in the snow landing. We use beach sand here in Australia! LOL
Thanks for your tips! During my retirement I will definitely emigrate to the warm place and fly all day long at the beach! Ah... only 30 years waiting.
No wood in my stock, so I used epox and carbon. So far so good. Here is few hours fresh video from the field. Please post also video from your beach :)
This is to Electric Aussie...Hope your well mate. Well I've been flying the Yak for a while now and it's a really fun plane to fly, I have upgraded my original power plant with a bit of a monster and a few different things and it's 3D capabilities are off the charts mate. But just wondering if you have offset your engine? I've got the feeling that I should...your thoughts mate? (I hope the rain buggers off soon, I'm sick if sim flying!!)
Best Regards,
Kaiser76
Lol I think I've just answered my question Electric Aussie. Looking closely at it the fire wall seems to have enough offset on it. But would still appreciate your thoughts mate.
Hi Kaiser, Sorry, just spotted your question. Yeah, ain't this weather the pits. When it's not raining it's blowing gale force winds. Anyways, as for offsets on motor set-up, I usually like to have 1-2 degrees of both right thrust and down thrust. This is supposed to be built into the firewall, but it's not always there with these HK foamies. the offset should be just enough that you can see it's there when you look the motor from the top and from the side. The angle should be just discernible to the eye but not exaggerated. If you need to add more angle, the easiest way is to use thin washers or some thin shim material between the motor mount and the firewall at the screws. Cheers, EA!
Cheers Electric Aussie...Thats ok about the late reply mate, no worries. I have offset the engine..now I'm just waiting to fly! It always seems to be alright to fly while I'm at work, but the moment I'm home....it's raining and gale force winds! LOL. As Ned Kelly said "Such is life" mate. Have a great day.
Best Regards,
Kaiser76.
Hello I have a Turnigy 480 1320 KV and 35 Amp HK ESC-Is correct? . What propeller and battery should I put in for it flies like a charm?? I fly park flyer for five years but I want to start in 3D! Thank you very much
Hi steph005, I already answered your post over on the USA warehouse site for this plane, but I'll cut and paste here to make sure you get the info. You picked a great motor/ESC combo for this plane. I fly this plane with the same motor and a HK BlueSeries 40A ESC and it's great for 3D. For props, try a 10x5 or 11x3.8 and you'll have plenty of thrust for 3D without overloading the motor. I use both 1800mah/3S and 2200mah/3S on my plane. The CG is perfect for 3D with the 1800mah, but the 2200mah gives longer flight times without sacrificing too much 3D performance. Cheers, EA!
ok donc mon esc 35 amp est trop faible. je vais le changer pour un 40 amp :) et j'ai quelques batteries 1800 mah mais 20 C . le nombre de c est til vraiment important ? :) j'ai encore beaucoup a apprendre. Merci
Sorry im'french !!! Ok so my 35 amp esc is too low. I'll change it to a 40 amp :) I have a few batteries 1800 mah 20 C but. c is the number of til really important? :) I still have much to learn. thank you
Steph Salut, Merci pour le cré*dit. Votre 35A ESC devrait bien se passer. Je viens de vous dire ce que je utiliser avec le Park480, mais que le moteur ne devrait pas tirer plus de 35A et vous ne serez pas en poussant à* plein ré*gime trè*s souvent dans le vol 3D. Cordialement, EA!
Great plane, flys great and all up cost just over $100 what can you say. Also saw your 3d promotional/instructional videos on youtube last night using this very plane, well done
i still wonder what motor is best for weight to power ratio for this plane is there some thing better than the park 480 1320kv that will be compatible with a 40 amp esc and a rhino 1750mah 25c 3s for hard 3d flying that wont cost a small fortune
Hi wild, The L3010B/1300kV (PRODUCT ID: L3010B-1300) is the recommended motor, only costs $15, and has more power than the Park480/1320. I had one in my spares when I bought the Yak, but wanted to keep the weight down so I went with the Park480. The L3010 weighs 20g more than the Park480, but the thrust is probably 100g-200g more so it's better bang for the buck. Cheers, EA!
I dont know whats up with this website all day but i could'nt get on on any of my pc's and now its not letting me credit you and doing other funny stuff as well.. bet that little trick cost hk a small fortune today with no contact from this side of the pond i know they lost money from me lol
Hi wild, HK's servers have been playing up all week. I couldn't connect for almost 4 hrs last night. I just pulled up some vids on the Su31 and it looks like it'll fly even better than the Yak55. Huge wing area with long cord but everything else scaled down. Guy was doing inverted Harriers at walking pace. Hope HK adds this to their inventory. Cheers, EA!
still wont let me credit you for your answer.. whats up with that hk.??? before you pull our post you should fix your discussion forum first cause if it dont work rite it would make me wonder about your products.. whats up with that s*** hk
i m still waiting for hk to send my batteries. i opened a paypal dispute because the last time i did'nt get my stuff from hk they(customer service live chat) told me to wait and my time to open a claim with them thru paypal expired.. i m still waiting to receive my stuff after two and a half years. they told me there not responsable because it was not reg. or ems. and its on me to find where it got sent to. like i could do that.. once they sent my stuff to mainland china when i live in usa.. i m not gonna let them stick it to me again if i have my way about it.i wish hk would clean up their customer service practices and do speedy responces for returns and speed up there shipping time for both new item and returns then they would be a#1 across the board.. I.M.H.O.
Just read your note wildthawn. I find myself in the same run around. PP won't talk after 45 days and HK don't see it as a problem until after 45 days. around and around and around we do and nothing happens. I thought they were better than this but I am now having my doubts.
Hi, I'm using the 3010b as sugested by hobbyking and it works a treat, But you can use other brushless motors around the 1300-1400kv up to about 420w the 3010b is about 37mm wide so plenty of space for the different size motors of your choice. Hope this helps...Chris
Hi Nathan, I'm using a Park480/1320kV which is lighter than the recommended motor yet still has plenty of punch for 3D. Hovers at 60% throttle and rockets vertical at full throttle. Great when combined with 40A ESC and 1800mah/3S. Cheers, EA!
Hi ElectricAussie
I have been flying this plane for a while now and love it. The motor I bought is a little underpowered so I am going to purchase the Park480/1320kv which you recommend and also run the nanotech 2200 but was wondering what C rating I should use. All the weights and sizes are very similar, is the 45-90c 2200 an overkill?
Cheers
Hi Grant, The Park480 doesn't draw more than 30A so the 2200mah 25C-50C nano-techs are more than enough. Also, you can almost get them really cheap with a buddy code. Do a web search for "HobbyKing buddy codes" and you'll see a link for RC International. The available buddy codes for all items will be listed, but you can search it for the nano techs. I just had a look and the 2200's are available for $10.27. I think you're limited to buying 2 or 3 at a time when you add them to your cart on HK, but that price is a steal. Cheers, EA!
EA What is the setup your running on your yak55 im looking for a motor with plenty of punch for 3d and i m thinking this one should do it with a 40a esc and a rhino 3s 1750 to a 2150 mah 25c and the 11x4.38 or 10x4.8 prop. sound about rite to you? just wondering before i buy!!!
Hi wild, Park480/1320kV with 1800mah or 2200mah 3S and 40A BlueSeries ESC is what I'm using on my Yak55. Props vary but usually 10x5 or 11x4. Cheers, EA!
Hi, i have my cog at 10mm behind the carbon spar, which is great for hovering and 3d stuff but if your flying it like a normal plane it needs to be 10mm in front of the rubber band, this worked for me when i first got the plane, i hope this helps you, From Chris
Hi.
Where do you guys find the CoG?
I've got the Rhino 1750 3S, the biggest fitting battery in it, the Tgy 2836 1000kv.. And it is still freaking tail heavy... Have head up to 75 grams of lead in it... This is the biggest battery that fits, so cannot try a bigger battery..
Jasper,,,I run a turnigy 35-36/6 1250 kv, 40 A esc and a Rhino 1750 3s. right side up ,bottom side up no difference. CG is apparently right where it needs to be.
Hi, i have my cog at 10mm behind the carbon spar, which is great for hovering and 3d stuff but if your flying it like a normal plane it needs to be 10mm in front of the rubber band, this worked for me when i first got the plane, i hope this helps you, From Chris
Hi! Please tell me whether this is compatible set for this aircraft: NTM Prop Drive Series 35-30A 1400kv / 560 W. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem .asp?idProduct=16234 with the prop 10x3.8 and 11x3.8? Battery 3s.
Hi, The motor might be a bit over the top for this light wieght model, use the 3010b as stated works great with 30/40 amp esc, 11x5 prop, the only lipo i can find that fits the 90mm battery hole is the Rhino 1750mAh 3S1P 20C/25c Lipoly Pack, if your going to cut the hole bigger i would use the Turnigy nano-tech 1600mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack,Its longer but loads of punch for your money and light. From Chris
I'm using the NTM Prop Drive Series 35-30A 1400KV and findit to be great. Using it with a 11x5.5 but thinking about bringing the pitch down abit. Chopper I was thinking of getting the nano 1300mah 45-90c but would say go for the 1600 25-50 instead?
Hi, The park 480 is rated at 250 Watts not enough power you will need somthing around the 400 Watts if you want to do 3D, use the 3010b as suggested by Scotty on the video, very good motor and cheap to boot. Hope this helps. From Chris
this is talk i had with Live Online Chat
Thank you for contacting the HobbyKing Support Team. How may I help you?
You:
Hi this is the first time i have use EMS shipping tracking site it
says it needs a tracking number as well as a verfication code code
so where do i get the verfication code from.
ORDER ID 2005321815
tracking number.EE737932675CN
verfication code.
thanks.
Steve Anderson.
Ivy:
One moment please.
Ivy:
Please try again later. It may take 24-48 hours for information to show for the tracking status.
Ivy:
Is there anything else that I may help you with?
You:
the tracking status. is there but no verfication code
Ivy:
The tracking number is all you'll need.
You:
well you need to get tracking site to fix it site as it asks for a verfication code.
Ivy:
That's for Hong Kong Post, which we have no access to.
Ivy:
Please try again after 24-48 hours.
You:
ok thanks for nothing
HK do not tell you this is in the back warehouse till you hit the buy button. JIT-item: These products are stored in our second, larger warehouse and take 3-5 days to be dispatched. The entire order will be dispatched at 1 time.
they say it takes a few days because its in a different warehouse so it has to be pulled then sent to the main warehouse then go thru the whole rigamoroe to be shipped out of hongkong makes ya wonder why they did'nt just fly it over from the first warehouse.. oh i know they cant because its a ARF version. lol. cheers n beers dudes
Customer Reviews
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__edd!
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I just received both boxes (one I will use as spare parts). Packing is so safe, the contents are in perfect shape and found a little gift in the box as well :) Thanks HK! The foam is light, yet looks rigid to light impacts. Carbon fiber is everywhere and nicely glued with transparent epoxy I think.
Just a note you all need to know about: The battery opening is too small for a 3S 1800 mah. According to my measurments, the largest capacity 3S pack that should fit is the Rhino 3S 1750 mah 25C which is surprisingly smaller than the other similar packs. If thinking of enlarging the battery area, there is too little you can remove.
Will do a full review later.
5 comments. Reply..
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Andrew
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I got quite a supprise when i un boxed this little baby, it's a lot bigger than the wing span sugests. Easy to put together & good control horns for a change. I put a eflight 480 (just coz a had 1 laying around) & a 13X4 prop & it flies GR8, Knife edge all day with very little rudder, flies real slow, yet handles speed to. The fuz had a bit of a worp but duzn't worrie it to much, C/G was spot on with a 1350 3cell in the pre cut out batt.spot. luv it, ordered a spare the next day, & 2 mates have also ordered 1 after seeing it fly.
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Ranchpig
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Transit time was good to U.S. and everything arrived in great shape. Build time was minimal and straightforward. Only complaint is that the fusealage isn't straight and wings didn't quite line up into the slots for them. The carbon square tube was slightly off. I used the digital 5g servo's and they're plenty fast and stong enough. Flying on the recommended Donkey ST3007 w/ 11x5.5E and hardly ever run it over 3/4 throttle. Big complaint is that the rear tail section is always twisting. I'm going to purchase some aluminum flat stock and take out those CF tubes and run it down the length. This should really stiffen it w/o much weight. All in all a great buy!
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Igor
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Great airplane! It flies slowly but surely. Performs nearly all 3D shapes with the recommended engine. Thanks to the removable wings is easily transported in a small car trunk. However, the fuselage has a slight bend. But on the flight characteristics of this has no effect also had to cut the slot under the battery, as staff would not fit in length. Now I use rechargeable batteries 1500 - 2200 mah 3S, 10x5 propeller. The plane flies much better without the landing gear. Also had to set the timing of the speed control to position "High", because motor cut down on gas 2/3-3/4. Thank you producers!
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Jeebs
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As others have said fuselage isn't straight, but this is a foamy nonetheless. things don't line up perfect. My aileron cutouts were in two different spots (one closer to the TE of the wing than the other) Take your time and build to suit your components and you'll be happy. I used hitec HS-82mg servos and a 37mm 400 watt brushless, 40amp esc and it balanced perfect with a 1600mah 40c 3 cell. this plane is big enough to build heavy and still fly great, especially as a night flyer. If you really want a 3-d machine glue the wings on. I want this in the us warehouse though, slow and low will produce some great carnage!!!! Fly on Hobbyking
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