I do not recomend to change the motor shaft for some reasons. First, you will spend a lot of time doing it and you could damage the motor case. Second: you'd lose efficiency because it would not be as perfect as the factory, and third: this motor is so cheap that change the shaft wouldn't worth.
First two reasons are nonsense. Just don't hit the bearing into its central part during assembling/disassembling and motor will be like new or even better (some shafts go sloppy from the factory).
BUT! This motor is imperial (I mean the units of measurements), so it's very hard to find the replacement shafts and bearings. Anyway, buying the new motor is good idea - full bearings set usually costs over 10$ for 5 or 10, shaft - about 1.5$ pieces and they find the use very seldom, usually in a crash the can is bent or motor burns out or alike (I have the 2836 motors in a quad for some time, I've burned one motor and bent the can on the other - my spare bearings and shafts are useless for now).
So Alexander, I guess you are an expert ( and smart fool guy ) who think is easy to change this shaft?!? For your information this shaft is too tight fited into the can and, if you don't have the right tool you'd damage the motor can. And you are saying that a new shaft would be better than the factoty one?!? My God... Better hear it than be a dumb!! LOL
Here's a proof of the possibility to disassemble the motor without any fancy tools. You'll find very much more on youtube by "brushless shaft replacement". And if you would use google, you would find out, that some motors in some cases tend to have the shaft rotating in the bearing so that the inner ring of the bearing stands in place forever. Too bad for you not to use google before being rude.
Sorry, but who was the first being rude here telling the others answer was "nonsense"?? This motor in the video is a litle bit diffent from the one sold here, and I guess, much more expensive worthing change the shaft.
I have a tricopter with these motors, and one of those hit the ground moving the shaft a little bit foward and I had a big work pushing the shaft 2mm to the place because it was too tight, ans you come telling me it is easy to replace the shaft?!? Come one smart guy!!!
And to finish: not everyone like you has those tool and pratice to change a shaft like in this video. End of discussion!
I want to use four of these motors on my quad with http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8043__Master_ Airscrew_propeller_7x4.html these props, and 3 cell 2200mah battery. 15A multistar turnigy escs. Is this a good setup?
I build and sell tricopters with these motors. I would recomend using a 8x4 gws prop, instead Airscrew ( too heavy props ), and for the Esc, I recomend at least 18amp. A multistar 20amp would be great( remember that you need only one esc with BEC, the others could be OPTO, those cheaper ones)
I always recommend higher amp esc's also ones that you dont have to replace if you decide that you want better and faster motors, otherwise I use a 2200 mah on my quad, and i use the kk2.0 board. I dont use Airscrew props they are too heavy, i use 9x4.7 gws props
Which ESC fits for this motor to a quadcopter that are really cheap but works very well? I should use this for a quadcopter and frame 330 kit. Is there more liftpower if I use triblades props or is it enough with regular? What do you recommend for this?
I build and sell tricopters with these motors. I would recomend using a 8x4 gws prop, and for the Esc, I recomend at least 18amp. A multistar 20amp would be great( remember that you need only one esc with BEC, the others could be OPTO, those cheaper ones)
Are there any prop adapters on hobbyking that would fit on this motor? I'm not looking for those you put on the shaft, I'm looking for the type you screw on top of the motor itself. I use these on my quad but these prop adapters aren't very well balanced and I think using other adapters might make it a lot easier.
You can't use the adapter type you're looking for, these motors don't have holes on them. I actually made that mistake myself, got adapters from "another well-known chinese shop" only to find out that motors lack the mounting holes for them. At least the collet-style adapters supplied with the motors are "good enough" quality, easy to balance.
Hi...did you find these motors difficult to balance? Do you have any pointers for balancing these motors? I get a lot of vibration with just the motors, no propeller. At a certain speed, the shaft starts to wobble. Tried the tape balancing method with no luck.
clambake, have you checked to see if you can wobble the shaft back and forth when its stopped. your post made we wonder if there is a bearing issue or a bent shaft that would cause what you are seeing. if the bearings were loose, it would have a lot of play in it...
Would this motor work with 20A ESC(like this one, seems great for quads: Hobbywing 20A Skywalker Quattro, google it) on 8x4.5 slow fly props or should I go for 30A. I think 20A Should work, but manual says it needs 30A ESC's. As it was recommended, I bought 12A ESC(from related products), but I'm affraid it won't be enough for my quadcopter. I just don't want to buy wrong ESC's again. i'm running 4 motors on 3s 2200mAh 25-30C battery. Thanks.
Download Flashing tool software(google it and flash the right hex file for specific esc) you should have PRODUCT ID: 332000007 Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool, doing this will get rid of tedious soldering work and for the ESC the non-programmable one.
PRODUCT ID: HK-SS30A Hobbyking SS Series 25-30A ESC
I have flashing software, I was just wondering if this exact ESC has ISP pins broken out, because $20 seems a bit too much for an adapter. I tried to solder pins to one of my atmega8 based ESC's and I managed to solder 4 of 6 in about 20 minutes. Then I gave up. I don't think I could do it 4 times, so I guess I'll just go for that flashing tool. Thanks.
I would like to hear others opinions about bearings.
I have 5 and it seems to me that beraings wear too fast.
On the F330 quad after about 5 flights 2 motors weared more then others. Rotor "clicks".
Have anybody found what size of bearings is used in this motor?
Inner DIA is 1/8?
Outer DIA? And Width?
Disassembled 1 motor.
It has worked for about 20 minutes.
Top bearing do not even rotates, istead of this shaft easily rotates inside bearing.
Bearings and shaft are greased. Grease is clear, nothing happened to motor, just bearings worn out, especially top - this one completely (rotates with cracking noise).
The reason why this motor works (and will work for a little more) is that shaft rotates easily inside the bearings, while bearing not moving at all.
Now will try to remove bearings and measure it.
(1/8 x 5/16 x 9/64)
Get out bearing (then put back).
It is hard.
I used 3mm drill bit (plane backside) through the bottom bearing. As support from the top - metal round adapter from TV tuner (between tuner and antenna) fit very well.
Held motor upside down on the adapter and beating the drill.
Now I now it's sizes definitely.
It is 1/8in x 5/16in x 9/64in (ID x OD x W)
The shaft is definitely 1/8in along all length.
And there is nothing interesting inside the motor.
Everything is very simple.
Everything is good, except bearings.
I have ordered, but still not received replacement bearings.
But I disassebled motor to measure bearing, then assembled it back. And it works as previously.
I think bearings should not fit in place VERY tight, maybe that is why it is worked bad.
So I put it in place just by fingers.
Others work. Also not good (only 2 of 5 perform better). But I still use it.
I have ordered other motors and received it. Parkfly-450.
But they are too heavy, comparing to these. Too heavy for 330mm quad.
I have replaced bearings.
On 3rd try it was easier.
With new bearings works better, smoother, but difference not very big, because shaft has a bit smaller diameter and rotates inside bearing.
So no matter if bearing good or bad if shaft slide inside inner hole.
Under load new bearing works better (sounds better at least).
I agree with you about the shaft sliding around in the inner hole of the bearing. I have an old SK2822 1200kV, this motor works great with no wobble. (Down side is HK obsoleted it with the SK3 series) I also purchased a Turnigy Easymatch Park300 1080kV and earlier experimenting looks promising. I have a Turnigy NTM Prop Drive 2826 1350kV I was using for a small biplane. I tried it on the quad and had a ton of vibration. I looked around on the net for replacement bearings for the D2822/17. I saw the ceramic bearings the car guys use, other than the quality looked questionable. I think you are right Yurik about the shaft sliding around in the inner hole under load. What we really need is someone to sell a matched shaft along with the bearings that has really tight tolerances with respect to the inner hole and shaft diameters.
Actually I think we don't need another shaft because we have to drill larger hole for it.
For 8 dollars we just need a little better bearings.
But I decided it is not hard to replace, so 32 dollars for 4 motors and 7 dollars for 10 bearings is enough.
I can not say it vibrates much, no, it simply not tight.
But especially for quad if prop are balanced it works not bad even when bearings wear out.
I have bought Park450 and will try soon. At first look I thought wow It's heavy and shaft is enormous!
I was wondering how to bent the shaft without bent the motor can, that is made of aluminum. I'm almost sure that the can was also afected. Like I said up there* I don't think worthy to have a hard work changing the shaft, having the risk of damage everything, with a motor so cheap. Buy another motor instead.
Sorry but its not cost effective. 9 dollars for a new motor, 89 cents for a new shaft.. Which one sounds cheaper? Shafts bend without hurting the motors all the time. The case is designed to be rigid. Im not going to have an argument like the last guy did. I know how to do it correctly, and if you cant replace a shaft without damaging the motor, you shouldnt be providing feedback to anyone.
hi kitan. yes, it will work with 2-bladed 8x4.5" prop,but 12A esc will be at the optimum edge of limit in those combination,& expected that battery will provide 4~5 minutes otherwise im recommended u to use above 2450mah to fly more than 5min'.Zippy 2700mah 25c or 35c is the best match for ur setup. anyway watchout ur esc & motor temparature,if it is to hot,u'll gonna have to prop down to 7"x4.5~6,but then considering u'll lose some lift trust. & pls award me some more credits for my respond...tqvm..!
jhon827, please tell a little about flashing Turnigy 15A Multistar with SimonK.
Had you changed pins, had you used kda.hex?
about the motors: price is really great!
But don't other feel the bearings a bit weak.
I mean, that shaft began to "click" quite fast...
Hi kitan, I do the same. I put two 1550mah 3s 20C lipos in parallel so I get a 3s 3100mah 40C lipo! Just keep in mind that the extra weight will requirz more power so you will drain your batteries a bit faster. Works great for me tho.
If you mean to use it with a single motor that's bucket loads, if your going to use that battery with four on a quad it'll probably be OK but your pushing it I reckon. Most of the time you should be about half throttle which might be 5 or 6 Amps per motor? which that battery will deliver. When you want to crank it up you may find the battery voltage will collapse and can create weird behaviour.
thomass,im calculated, its is recommended that u use 2400~2700mah 23c .because this will provide safe redundant power level on flight & hovering. as barfy said,& im also experiencing same too,if battery is insufficent in any way,then ur quad will behave weird & maybe wobble to crash.. then pls credit me some thumbs-up.. tqvm..
It all depends on the lipo you use. If he uses 2s lipos the prop can be up to 8x6, if he wants to use 3s they recommend using 7x4 props. If you go higher you might pull more amps. So if he has a 15A or more ESC, he could use a 8x4 prop, but I think 9x4.7 might de just too much. Maybe it flies for some time but if the motors are not designed for that their lifetime might be shorter. grtz
Estou usando bateria 3S. Com a helice 7x4, o empuxo ficou em 320g e a corrente maxima foi de 8A. Ja com a helice 8x4, o empuxo foi de 520g e corrente maxima foi de 12A. Meu esc é* de 20A. E ai, uso a 7x4 ou a 8x4 em 3S?
Nice motor built well runs great on a small home built quad w/8X4 props stays cool the only down side if you want to call it that is the wires coming out of the motor- it is more of a rubber tube(w/4 or 5 strands inside) than a wire but it comes w/ 3.5 bullet connectors already soldered on and X motor mount w/ screws ! over all sweet little motor ! specs are as stated
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hey, can anyone quote the bearing size it has. i got my one bearing damaged in first crash. shaft is also bent slightly.. i tried 4*8*3, but inner collar is too loose..