Designed to provide reliable and clean power for 3D parkflyers. This brushlessoutrunner will provide more power and with its high efficiency, long run times. A quality motor, built specifically for planes designed to fly with an 85 watt brushlessoutrunner.
Spec. Battery: 2~3 Cell /7.4~11.1V RPM: 1600kv Max current: 9A No load current: 11V/0.5A Internal resistance: 0.18 ohm Weight: 25g (not including connectors) Diameter of shaft: 3mm Dimensions: 27x23mm
Hey! I have a good question: Any of you folks think this would work well on a Sig Lil Rascal? I am thinking it will, but a touch more input would be nice. I am guessing a 6X4 prop will do the trick. On the Sig, it ought to fly straight up!
Take a digital caliper, set to inches or metric which ever you prefer, and measure from the side of the hole to the nearest side of the other hole. Which coincidentally is the same as if you could measure exact center to center. The screws are likely metric. I would try the TPF Machine screws (M3x6mm) PRODUCT ID: 9315000151 for 32 cents for 4 of them. If you need longer you can use the TPF Machine Screws (M3*16mm) PRODUCT ID: 9315000153.
could someone who has successfully reversed a shaft on this motor please tell us how you did it?
There is no hidden grub screw in the bell housing, it simply will not budge regardless of the amount of penetrating oil, heat or tapping and this motor is pretty useless on a quad with a half an inch of spinning shafts sticking out of the bottom corners, i don't know why the fuk they are recommending this for the mini quads when the motor will not work as is. I cant even begin to explain how much money I have wasted do to hobbykings terrible combo recommendations that simply were not compatible.
I made a video but have not posted it on youtube because it makes me look retarded. So i will describe the path i tool to reverse the shaft.
1. Remove the cir clip and move it to the back most grove.
2. Move the shims that are also there back
3. find something that can cover the front where the shaft is going to come out so you get enough clearance.
4. place in vice and use sheer pressure to push the shaft through.
make sure you push it though slowly with consistent pressure. Easy as that. If you relay want a video i will post it.
I too struggled to reverse the shaft. It looks like it has red locktite, however there is a work around.
I found a post that talked about prop savers. This little motor has one already - google thera-band prop saver. This shows you how to put the prop onto the motor, mounting it as you would if the prop shaft was reversed. In my plane it doesn't matter because the shaft can stick inside the plane. Others may want to cut it off. Hope this helps, thanks in advance for the points
Hello RJ Musel, I found this information for you: Himax HC2816-0890 Electric Brushless Outrunner Motor = 79g 200W Himax HC2808-1160 Electric Brushless Outrunner Motor = 52g 100W HobbyKing equivalent motor = www.link Plush 18amp Speed Controller = www.link hope this info helps Wildman
The prop saver hub is about 7/32 or 5.5mm (.215 inches on my micrometer). it is not removable and the screws are smallish. I am using a 7x6 E prop and I did drill out one of the adapters slightly to fit snug. a 6E prop fits much much better as it is thinner both in thickness and width.
Thanks for your reply! I just ordered 4 of these for my quad. (before I knew about the diameter). I would have wished for 7mm though :( I do have some spare adaptors though, so maby I'm safe :) Thanks again!
woo hoo being voted best answer as the 1st answer was immediately voted as "best." i replied way after the vote so my response is a pure 1 not seeking any type of credit. i put ppl down with only the truth. hopefully my post has educated u so that u no longer post worthless links that get censored. just post the name of a product so intelligent users can just google it. censored links are USELESS!!!!
I received this motor and put it on a 10oz park flyer running an 8X6 prop and didn't check the amp and watt draw on the motor. I was using a 12amp speed controller as in the spec's it shows that the motor is 9amps max current. What was odd was that at full throttle the power was fading. On the ground the motor and speed controller were warm. I decided to do an amp check. I found that the motor was pulling 25amps and putting out 177watts! Using an 8X3.8 prop the amps were down to 15 and 129 watts. I thought wow! This is nowhere the specs given. I thought it was a fluke but a friend of mine bought the same motor a few weeks later and said his motor was the same. Even using a 35 amp speed controller the power still fades off using full throttle but not as bad as when I was using the 12 amp speed controller. I still give the motor a high rating as it is built well and performs well but be aware that it puts out way more power and has a higher amp rating then given.
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the shaft is stuck and no matter how hard I try to reverse it, it won't come out, tried heating the bell housing, tried tapping it out with a brass punch, tried a metal punch, next stetp is to take it to a machine shop and see if they can remove the shaft without damaging the motor housing.....