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Turnigy® TRUST SBEC ESCs have a very flexible and broadly capable MCU, able to run all types of brushless motors. The large heatsink and simple PCB layout make heat dissapation consistant, enabling the ESC to be run at its limit, without failure. The ESC is program-card and transmitter programmable with clear and easy to understand instructions included. Default factory settings are; Brake: off Battery: LiPo Auto Detect Low Voltage: 3.2v (power down motor)
Spec. Max Motor Current: 70A Max BEC Current: 3A BEC Voltage: 5.5v (Switching) LiPo: 2~6S NiMH:5~16cells Weight: 65grams
A 4000mah with mixed flying will give you around 6 mins and a 5000 will give around 7 mins,all this is assuming a current draw of 50amps,if you draw say 40amps this will increase the flight times to around 7 mins for the 4000 and between 8 & 9 for the 5000.
Yes,this ESC would be perfect,the battery though is a bit small for this size of motor.Not quite sure how many amps you wish to draw but if you were drawing around 50amps you will only get just over 2 mins run time flat out,a bit longer with different throttle settings.
i bought this item and when i got it i came to find out that it di not work. I also bought the red brick 70 A ESC and it did not work also. I would just like to warn all buyers about these products.
All I can say Hobby King's products are rock solid. Have you contacted anyone in customer service about the products that do not work? I have many red brick and Trust 55a 70a escs and they all are flawless. Please give HK a chance to rectify an issue before posting negative comments.
Both UBECs and SBECs are battery elimination circuits (BECs). SBECs are switching devices (thus the "S"), UBECs are typically linear devices - I believe the "U" stands for universal. Switching devices are more efficient, but noisier, thus the ferrite ring with 5-6 turns of wire through it between the SBEC and the RX. Do NOT remove the ferrite ring. Linear devices are less efficient, but provide cleaner power.
A linear has to absorb any power not used. Example: if you have an 11.1 volt battery, your UBEC is set to provide 5 volts, and your rx and servos are drawing 2amps, the UBEC will have to absorb (and turn into heat) (11.1-5)volts * 2amps, or about 12 watts. If you use a higher voltage battery, the UBEC has to sink more power, so the current rating is generally only correct for a 2 cell lipo, and will be lower the higher the battery voltage. I generally use switching devices when I can, certainly if I have lots of large, or high torque, servos.
Hi guys I have this esc in my T rex 500 and the motor seems to start way to fast does anyone know where I can find the manual programming codes as the programming card only has soft/fast start on it and I can't make head or tails out of the tones I get when I enter programming mode.
I see below where someone asked about reasoning behind wrapping the heatsink...I'd be curious to know why as well. I BELIEVE I'm having heat issues with mine - it's in a GP Escapade .61 running 6S 5000mah and a Rimfire .80 (FUN plane, BTW ). If I run 6-7 minute flight, WOT, batteries come back BARELY warm. Switch packs, take off and about 2 minutes into flight, motor throttles down. If I reset, it starts back up, but throttles down right away again. Batteries, not drained, still cool. ESC is in the cowl, 2 air inlets, holes through all bulkheads, cooling air outlet holes behind wing. According to manual, this ESC will shut down if temp gets to 212F. First thing I thought was "heatsink covered". Can I remove the shrinkwrap to expose the heatsink?
The answer is yes because I have two of the 55 amp trust and i was running into heat problems,darn florida weather! What you need to do is cut a square in shrink wrap to completely expose heatsink only, then zip tie both ends of heatsink because the shrinkwrap is the only thing holding heatsink to pcb. Be very careful not to overtighten zip ties or pcb go CRACK!
Why does this hesitate so long before giving me throttle? I can't make any sense of the programmming instructions, and it's unusable, since it takes 5 to 20 seconds or more to react to throttle. What gives?
I would say that there is an issue with the signal getting to the motor through the three wires coming from the ESC. I know you may not want to hear it, but your solder joints may not be solid enough to allow the full voltage to travel to and from the motor. One wire carries a signal to the first phase of the motor and the motor should spin some or at least twitch. Then it sends a second signal that tells the motor hey your going the right way or maybe you need to switch back. the third wire car
Turns out that something was too tight in my drivetrain. Interesting that the speed controller seems to be sensitive to load. 2 different speed controllers did the same thing, until I found the problem.
It's not sensitive to load so to speak. The cause was different but the symptoms the same. The tension prevented the motor from spinning so it got caught on that first phase. Once it's stuck there that second phase can't confirm/correct the motor spin direction. That means the third phase can't send the voltage back to the ESC to set the timing. All motor hesitate or twitch a little on start up. If yours was doing it more than a second or so then it was defiantly a problem. When a phase gets stuck on these brushless motors they demand and receive gobs of juice from the battery. You can fry the whole drive train including the battery if it gets stuck. You certainly would see a decrease in motor life/performance had you not found the source.
Excellent comment, debay. This happened to my HobbyZone Typhoon. The straight ge****t cogged on motor start, and the motor, ESC and a brand new LiPo all smoked in less than a second. I tore out the geared motor and put in an outrunner. If I need a geared motor I use a high quality planetary ge****t now, and have had no problems since. This isn't a problem, since I fly gliders and electric planes, but not helis.
Apparently this is the same ESC as the Hacker, Hyperion, ZTW ,Black Mantis, JPEnErg, Mystery, PowerHD, and Hawk. Since HK wont let me post links, google "esc ztw hacker mystery" and click on the first result from RCgroups
Not sure. This was my first brushless esc i was very impressed got tons of fun even after breaking 2 tantalum caps off and 1 resistor. Reason that happened is because i removed the heatshrink!!! Im ordering this one again but this time just trimming a rectangle off the top like the redbricks
Yep, need to have some heat-shrink left to hold everything together. I usually add a finned heat-sink to the resultant exposed metal rectangle for added heat transfer.
This ESC is engineered with quality components and performs above the basic. Also has all the necessary programming options needed to make this a versatile unit ready for any set up!!!
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Customer Reviews
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jflessne
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This ESC is working flawlessly even after a few crashes. Doesn't seem to get hot even when I run it at WOT. I'm really beating on it too.
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fluffy11
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got the ese today set it up on my extra300 was good at first first bech tes was at 1000 watts of power. that was good for the extra then before I could un plug it fire and the ESE durned up thank god i was doing testing becuase that would have been the end of my plane over all bad other worked good., but I bo not recomend to anyone hope hk refunds me. jason
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scooter69
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These esc's are great. I have 3 of them all in a 4s setup, power 32 motor, 13x10 prop, 4 pound plane.
Havng suspected heat issues. Seems that after a WOT run (6-8 minutes), the throttle is shutting down. Can't be 100pcnt sure until I remove the cowl after a hard run and check temp of ESC, but everything else - battery and motor - all running cool or slightly warm.
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). If I run 6-7 minute flight, WOT, batteries come back BARELY warm. Switch packs, take off and about 2 minutes into flight, motor throttles down. If I reset, it starts back up, but throttles down right away again. Batteries, not drained, still cool.
