Relive a classic with this light weight blasa glider with excellent flight characteristics.
The Hobbyking E-Fair glider is a nicely finished and mostly pre-assembled 3CH balsa glider kit. Featuring a pre-built fuselage, wing and tail section, very little is left to complete this model and get it into the air. Pre-installed pushrod tubes make installing the servos and setting up the control surfaces a breeze. With its polyhedral wing design, this model offers very forgiving flight characteristics and will provide you with hours of sloap soaring fun!
The E-Fair glider comes in almost ready to fly form, which means you will need to add your own brushless motor/ESC, servos and radio system. Please see related items below. Specs: Wingspan: 1540mm Wing area: 23.3sq.dm Length 980mm Weight: 545g
Required: 2 x 9g Servos 28mm Brushless Motor 20~30A Brushless ESC 3S 1800~2200mAh Lipoly Your own Tx/Rx
As there was no manual in the box I sent a quick E-Mail to the manufacturer and they sent me the manual as pdf. I attached it in the Files-Section in two parts due to size. The second part can safely be ignored, it contains only some general "don't do this or that" stuff.
The pdf is also available under the files section in the DE-Warehouse
Hey dildo boy! I've been looking at some of your commentary & I'm sitting here saying to myself this world is full of $hit for brains trolls & I think you've won first prize!! You are quite the idiot & clearly a loser. Get a life & know you'll never get one over on me little boy..
yeah tell me about it, this troll is crazy...he has no life...But he likes this...HMDLB lol
watch and see how long it takes him to reply...*0)
But form alot of his trolling with others, here id figured id see for myslef lol
Would anyone have a set of fuselage plans or know where I can find a set? I have some major damage to repair. Basically everything forward of the leading edge was destroyed including the forward bulkhead. (2nd time for that bulkhead)
I can be reached at wayne.bowyerATgmaildotcom
The frame rib were the two wing pivots fit into was quiet weak . I strenthened it with carbon fiber rods and changed the wooden pivots to steel ones . That makes that area very stabel and trusty . See my uploaded picture .
Can anyone tell me what the 2 red covered pieces are for? I only sat and had a look at the model this evening, and was sorting out the motor and servos. Found these 2 pieces but cannot see what they do/for???? Perhaps I'm missing something really obvious, but if anyone can advise that would be great, thanks.
I didn't receive a manual with mine, and Hobbyking don't have a digital version. Can anyone help? Maybe with a short post with important info and steps, or maybe a scan of their manual!!! Very frustrating having received everything and ready to build/fly with time on my hands, but NO MANUAL!!!!!!! What a waste of time and money, so disappointed.
Steve, what do you need to know? The manual is next to useless to be truthful. The only important thing is CofG is at 55mm from the leading edge at fuz. Everything else is straightforward. The horizontal stab glues to the fuz but make sure that you remove the area of covering so that you have wood on wood joint. Same with vertical stab (fin).
Triangulate your measurements when setting stab (as glue dries) to nose of glider, same for wings. Don't measure stab tip to wing tip in case wings are out, then so will be your stab. or vice versa.
The hinges are standard CA hinges, just slot with scalpel, insert hinge and wick thin CA to set.
Push rod tubes are too small diameter for rods, and rods are very hard to slide, but you cannot remove tubes without cutting open fuz, so best get thinner rods otherwise this is likely to cause servo bind and overheat your ESC.
28mm outrunners DO fit but you do need to cut away the inside as it is around 26mm inside.
just purchased one from hk uk im in the process of building it installed the motor 28mm inrunner went straight in no problem so far iv discover the control rods are very stiff will try sanding them if that doesnt work i will replace them with a smaller gage music wire 032.... could anybody give me a measurement for the dowels under the wings i see no holes for them ????
The dowels are glued into the leading edge of the wing and must line up with the holes in the front former.Slot the wing together and place it in position then mark the hole centres on the wing.Drill into the leading edge and glue the dowels into place.
JIT means "Just In Time." Not sure how HK work with their suppliers, but it may mean that they order each kit direct from the model manufacturer, everytime an order is placed, rather than keep stocks of model kits on a shelf in a warehouse.
Hi al here just bought E-fair and put a turnigy d2826 2200kv on it with a 2200 mha battery and it glides so nice , I can stay up for 20 minutes, im not a great flyer but this plane is very controllable you will love it
hello to all
can someone pls tell me which folding prop i can use for the TURNIGY Aerodrive SK3 - 2826-1240kv. IT must be 35mm dia and the collet for a 3mm shaft, i cant find one. i only found 35mm dia but with 2mm collet or 3.2mm, i'm afraid that the 3.2mm collet wont be good on a 3mm shaft motor. is there another motor equivalent to the 2826-1240kv with 2mm shaft?
The smaller black plastic folding props on offer by HK are to suit 3.2mm diameter shafts. What KaosKane said works but an easier way to apply the aluminium foil is wrap so masking tape on the shaft and then remove it.This will leave a coat of sticky adhesive on the shaft.Then wind your strip of aluminium foil and wipe a bit of sticky adhesive at the end the al foil to stop it unwinding.If you wind it under tension it will be quite tight and wont crinkle. Make you strip just a bit longer than your shaft so you can bend it over the end of the shaft. Al foil is about 0.02mm thick. So if 3.2mm hole use 3.18mm diameter. When sliding on folding prop screw it on so that it wont unroll the al foil. Take up the slack in the two grub screws and then screw them up firmly.
If mounting outside the model I would fit a Hextronik 20g 2300kv outrunner with GWS 5x4.3 or 6x3 prop. It fits without problem. Inside mounting you will need a 26mm motor such as the Turnigy 2622 series. Hope that helps.
I like the idea of HK offering balsa thermal gliders. But at 545g with a wingspan of 1540mm I wonder what sort of thermal performance is possible? Also, the battery and motor recommendations are bigger and heavier than what I use on my 2 meter gliders. I think if built to HK's recommendations this would need some massive lift to stay up.
550g flying weight for 361.2in^2 wing area will give a wing loading of 7.75 ounces per square foot - this is fine for a glider and will give good soaring performance. Even better, you will not be grounded by moderate winds as very light gliders often are. I'll write a review once I fly mine, hope that helps.
boingk - Could you please post the actual weight of your e-fair when you receive it? I've noticed HK often lists "flying weight" for other ARFs. So I assume the 545g "weight" listed here is bare kit only. FWIW my personal benchmark for a nice thermalling 2M electric sailplane is under 700g AUW.
Have mine operating on 20A ESC and 1400 2S lipo. glide ratio is not fantastic but sink rate is very low due to low speed flying characteristics so it can stay up for a good while. It requires very little strength of lift to climb but you will loose lots of height gliding between thermals, especially on a day with winds over 5-6 knots.
Two screws and the wing comes off. Simple as that! But you can't split the wing in two (at least if you follow the building instructions, I'm sure you could do something on your own to make them "splittable").
madjeff it looks like the wings come in two pieces that you epoxy together i have a 2meter glider that is a one piece wing and i can transport it in a small car ok it just sits beside the top of front seat ok to make it two piece you need to insert heacey duty joiner spar in either ply or carbon fiber but looks like a good bit of kit and cheap i paid $100 just for a balsa kit that i had to glue and then buy covering but i like building balsa stuff
I have set mine up with the 2 included dowells at the front (one in each wing) and glued the included alloy spar allong with another piece of carbon rod (that i provided my self) at the back of the wing into the left wing. Now the wings lock their angles of attack together and are held together by the dowels and screws to stop from sliding apart. now the whole thing comes apart very easilly for transport
I joined my wings using the dowels provided, but instead of gluing the wings together, I used electrical tape (white to match colour) and then just mount as per plane. Several flights and one crash/re-build (ESC fault) and the wings have never been a problem. You can remove the tape and separate the wings for transport if needed. Works good for me.... :-)
I am seriously considering buying this glider. I hope someone can answer a couple of questions.
1) Is the advertised weight of 545g just the airframe, or is this what it should weigh after everything is installed?
2)What size spinner/hub should be used? I am thinking the spinner should be the same diameter as the nose of the glider, with the hubs slightly outside of this. So basically, what is the diameter of the nose?
Thanks for any help on this!
boingk its all ready assembled "The E-Fair glider comes in almost ready to fly form, which means you will need to add your own brushless motor/ESC, servos and radio system. Please see related items below. but you could add a center section but fues might also be a bit short may be
I have something similar and use Turnigy 2217 16turn 1050kv 23A Outrunner www.link 9x5 folding prop and Rhino 3s1750 (could be lighter but glider was originaly designed for brushed motor). Jus few seconds of vertical climb and then long long glide ...
This baby has very short nose, it surely requires a lot of weight in forward. Maybe I would use small 1000/1300 battery and some lead to keep weight as low as possible.
If you are new to flying, I believe this would be a great plane to learn with. Not the ONLY suitable plane of course, but it's got the right characteristics. Still get help learning, and practice on a sim too.
Nice !! I have been looking for a 'Guppy Hotliner' kind of pure balsa glider from HK. This one just lacks the Ailerons!!!
I would go for 'KIT' version, as the finish does not look too good. I bet many flyer can do better job.But that too fair keeping the price in mind.
sfactor1 there is no need to SCREAM when someone has a different opinion that your, but you're free to do it if that makes you feel better, no problem for me.
What you said is incorrect, I learnt with a very similar glider about 20 years ago, it's still there in good conditions in my garage, not a repair, maybe I'm the only one in the world, maybe you know very bad beginners, but don't consider your point of you as absolute.
I agree foam is easy and fast to repair, in some case balsa is also easy to repair, in some other is not, but for many modelers, building and repair is a fun component of the hobby.
Both airplanes are good, polyhedral wings are easier for beginners, no doubts here, E-Fair has . polyhedral wings.
Learning to fly is something people should do with an experienced models, crash doesn't happen in those conditions, once you learn't the basic the problem is gone and you have the airplane you like the most.
Robbie, I was using a 1300mah 7.4v in the vid's. I had to add a little bit of lead to balance out. Once balanced this is a great plane to fly. I have now upgraded to 3s and a larger ESC. It will almost fly straight vertical.
I'm looking to buy this glider, but the shipping to Brazil is in 80dó*lares.
over the glider and the products are recommended for almost $ 80. in total will give $ 160 then I'm in doubt about buying this same aircraft or researching more and see another a little more expensive but more complete ... except that the weight has to be the same as the freight q is expensive.
I'm with Robbie - I taught myself to fly RC on a glider much like this. Speed 400 can brushed motor, 7cell nicads and servos that cost me $40 each! Wonderful! One of the said servos burnt out mid-flight after countless hours of flying, so the fuselage is no longer. But I do have the wing kicking about somewhere....
For a beginner get the "Cloud" they fly great and are almost indestructible.
Bit of glue or packing tape and your in the air again also it takes all the worry of flying and crashing.
It also handles the wind very well and has long flight time on 1800ma battery.
I second the getting a AXN Floater jet (or also goes by the Cloud Fly name). I fly mine on a 2200mah 3S. It glides really well and has plenty of power to fly fast or get out of trouble. It's full 4 channel too.
I'll third that. The floater are great little planes for a beginner and a lot of fun even afterwards. I'll also agree with clive45 about 1800mah giving plenty of flight time and their ability to handle wind and take a few knocks . I do like this E-Fair glider and think it would be good and easy to fly for a beginner but it wont take the banging around the axn will and a beginner is going to bang it around a bit for sure.
Yap, I agree with the guys comments.. this E-Fair plane is very much alike w/ Gentle Lady, I have since the first months of my flying rc's and until today I fly this masterpiece with full excitement... I flew all sorts of crafts simple wings to complicated Heli's but at the end of the day becomes stressful.. so I get back to my motor powered Gentle Lady and give my self a relaxing flight time... Hope Hobby King would bring us more models like this one.. tnx HK
Balsa is an ideal medium flexible and light . The killer in most model crashes is kinetic energy built light they won't break. Been doing this since age thirteen now 67. My son is presently dsing in tassy.
Robbie I have seen it for sale as E-Fair and another name that I can't remember at moment. My mate has had one for over a year.
Last year at the model shows there were shops selling them for £*35. They have been around for quite a long time and several UK stores use to stock them.
I am seriously considering buying this glider. I hope someone can answer a couple of questions. 1) Is the advertised weight of 545g just the airframe, or is this what it should weigh after everything is installed? 2)What size spinner/hub should be used? I am thinking the spinner should be the same diameter as the nose of the glider, with the hubs slightly outside of this. So basically, what is the diameter of the nose? Thanks for any help on this!
I am going to try this motor: www.link The performance data in the description is wrong. It is for the 3632 motor. At the end of the discussion pages, there is this data for this motor:Voltage: 2-3S max current:18 A Esc:20 A prop.: 2S-9x5/8x5,3S-7x3/6x4 Pull: 440g for 550g glider, 500g acro, 390g 3D
My E-fair arrived safe and sound very well packaged.
The wing is in two pieces.
The fuselage is in one piece.
The vertical and horizontal stabilizer are in two pieces.
An hour of sniffing glue and your good to go :-)
-Flies great and predictable. No funny behaviour.
-Stalls predictable and gentle.
-Good flying time (on a 1800mah, a D2826-10 motor and a 8x4.5 fold prop I got 15 min of flying and I think that's good considering the temperature was bellow 0C).
-Good covering workmanship.
-Good balsa workmanship.
-Easy assembly cause everything is straight and true (no crocked wings and so forth).
-Good manual (though the English translation is best described as hilarious, the pictures makes up for the bad text)
-The inner space for the motor is sloppy carved out so my intended 28mm motor didn't fit.
-Battery hatch(canopy) is hold by 4 tiny screws that makes it a bit fiddly to open and you are for sure gonna loose the screws as well.
The engine bay could have been a real show stopper as the engine I planed to use did not fit, even though I carved out a considerably amount of balsa. As a workaround, I put another engine (D2826-10) in front of the aircraft instead of inside and it worked fine. Not pretty but it works. And it has the advantage that I moved the cg a bit forward so I can probably use a smaller lipo.
Bottom line: a great beginner plane but also an
2 comments. Reply..
1 thumbs up!
Hola un modelo realmente que superado todas expectativas , es un modelo realmente economico, tiene un diseÃ±o muy bueno y resistente ,tambien con la posibilidad de poder colocarle un equipo liviano de motorizacion electrica como asi tambien realizare las primeras pruevas de poder comolocarle un motor COX .049 Cualquier duda en que pueda ayudar sera bienvenida !
9 comments. Reply..
Glider arrived in good order, double boxed. It is a Lanyu kit. 28MM motor will not fit without some surgery. Had to pack my 28/30 outrunner back a bit as it would not turn over due to the wires touching on the barrel. Now the shaft is not long enough to mount a folding prop spinner. Am working on a solution with a standard colleted prop adapter which will involve filling the space behind the spinner (around 1/2 inch) with some balsa, then sanding to shape so it looks OK.
Controls are best on 3rd servo arm hole from centre and second hole from bottom on control surface horn. It flies well, but the motor I installed is very marginal and only gives very gradual climb. I expected that as it was all I had to fit, and would recommend the Hextronik 20g 2300kv motor instead with a GWS 5x3 or 6x3 prop. Other than that this is a very nicely made kit that can be assembled and flown in the same day. It has a nice glidepath, responsive controls, and should thermal well. 5 stars all round.