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This superb looking P-51D is from our top quality Durafly range and has enough scale detail and features to keep any warbird enthusiast happy. The 1100mm range offers the RC pilot a practical size model that can be easily transported and uses the ever popular 2200mAh 3s Lipoly pack, yet at the same time, the model is large enough to have presence and is able to tackle most airfields, not to mention a little wind, making it very practical.
As well as looking fantastic, this Mustang is plug and fly, meaning very little assembly work is needed. The powerful outrunner motor, ESC, navigation lights, servoless electric retracts & servos are all pre-installed leaving you to glue on the tailfeathers and some scale detailing, bolt on the plug in wings and go flying!
We have flown this superb P-51 extensively during testing and it will not disappoint, there is plenty of power for those really scale warbird aerobatics and the airframe is viceless with no hint of a tip stall. The pre-installed flap servos have a nice, slow operation to help prevent ballooning and the flaps themselves allow the approach speed to get down to a crawl without a hint of wingrock. There is no doubt, this is one fantastic looking warbird and it flies as easily as a low wing trainer!
I was wondering if anyone has a good way of mounting a battery in this. I have just been stuffing foam beside the battery on the sides but I am looking for a better way. Any suggestions?
Saul, This plane will fly well with a variety or 11.1 batteries. Most of the 2200mah batteries fit well and balance nicely. The plane comes with the yellow XT60 connector. I dont think Hobbyking will offer free shipping. It was about 16 dollars when I ordered it.
Yeah, been flying for over 30 years so have that part figured out..... I was curious what other owners were doing with theirs. Probably put a spacer in front of the battery to move the CG back. I'm used to flying Park Zone and EFlite planes and haven't run into this problem in a while.
Jimmy
I have some people cut the front top portion up and attach it to the canopy to ease in adjusting CG. I have not done that personally, I use a block of foam either in front or behind the battery to keep it from shifting mid flight. I fly mine with 4s 2200 and a 50amp redbrick OPTO ESC and a 12x8 prop. I like that I can fly scale at 1/2 throttle and the increased mass helps it cut through the air on windy days.
Am using a soft block of foam in front of the battery, soft enough that it will compress when I put the canopy on. Using 4s 2200 & 2650s 40c - 50a esc w/5a switching bec. Used the same piece of foam when using 3s 2200s. It does good with the stock prop and spinner, no need to change them.
flown twice, crashed twice, first time all trimmed out flew about 3 minutes it rolled over and spun in .second time take off all good leveled out about 100 foot rolled over and yep same twist in the ground. cg. is a little nose heavy running 2200mah 4s 35c and a 55a esc and 12x6 3 blade. any thoughts or ideas ????
thanks eodpete I've read a lot of your post in the foams.. it is a SBEC turnigy trust 55a could be cutting out I guess I walk up to the crash site every thing still works .I've held it wot shook it while moving all surfaces never misses a beat not even a chatter thinking it's the pilot... i'll try a new one I like the plane nice build really cool little bird wish I could keep it's nose out of the dirt ..
If you let it get too slow it will do exactly as you describe. On 3s if you hold at half power for too long it will bleed off enough airspeed for what you describe, to happen. Gotta keep the speed up especially when turning and maintaining altitude.
it matters run the 70 esc,the amp draw will be at least 46 amps at least that is what mine draws and the stock is only 35amps so unless you want to see the plane go down in flames i would change the esc the motor will be ok.
You will need to updrade the ESC with 4s. People have run the stock setup with 4s but it is not safe as it draws more then the rated amps on the stock ESC.
Thanks for the reply below, you could try the 11x7 Master Airscrew 3 blade,I found it works pretty well on these, but it costs almost as much as the durafly props. If you want to try a 2 blade you would probably need a 12x6 or 7 inch and it might look kind of strange. If you reply to my message below I will give you credit for it. I don't know what good these points are, maybe we get free bubble gum or something.
Ebay would be your best bet, if you cant find the servo's you can get a "speed reducer" and use regular servo's if im not mistaken. they have the speed reducer available here at HK!
I was flying on a pretty rough field yesterday... And it was windy. So switched the 4 blade to a 11x7 master airscrew. I honestly can't tell any difference in speed or thrust. Bare in mind I was mostly battling against the wind. When climbing for stall turns I was surprised how long it would hang before falling with either prop. Word of warning about using other props. The shaft on these models is 5mm. Master airscrew (and other) props tend to have imperial hole sizes. My 11x7 is quarter inch, so just over 6mm. Although it appears to fit straight on there is a tiny amount of slack. I visually check that the shaft is centred in the prop hole then tighten it on.... Doing this with the plane held vertical helps. Before doing this there was a bit of vibration. Any tips on this anybody? Thought about a but of electrical tape or cable heat shrink to enlarge the prop shaft.
did we have this talk? Go to flaps. At the bottom you can make any speed you want. I think H.K.s tr. orange has that adjustment. and it has 10 plane M.M. Im going to get one. They just look cool to. thumbs up ? V.B.
ho ya some time i do not know why my answer do not go up.. I make sure im logged in and it still happens. H.K. is working on it. ya the tr orange has alot if not all the stuff my big buck one has. Im going to get one just to cheak it out. V.B.
Yes, I have this plane and compared to PZ, FMZ, and others this plane is worth it. For the price for 1100mm it is very affordable. Also another reason to buy is they always seem to have parts in stock unlike other sites... *cough Banana...
Flaps work great, they actually slow the plane down. Gear are good quality and can take hard landings. You will not be disappointed.
I am ready to balance the plane and am using 3s 2200mAh batteries. The instructions aren't very good, but the diagram picture doesn't indicate very well where the battery position should be. Also what would you use to secure this battery since the battery is smaller than the surrounding styrofoam? When I am able to secure it, any suggestions on how far forward from the edge of the front of the cockpit.
Also, the control arms for the ailerons seem to be too long. Can I twist then toward the servo? Will the threads hold the arm if it is moved back and only half the threads are used? I hope I asked this last question correctly?
Hi nelson, don't worry about loose it balances and best would be 3000mah pushing all the to the front and put all connector on the end to hold battery with canopy... It will fly perfect , for 220mah, use some foam from the box to stop battery slide back... Hope this helps .. But it's not that fast for my choice so easy to fly...
I spent some time with a balancing stand, getting this model perfectly level at 70mm. That's with the 2200 nanotech about 1" back and 30g of washers on the tail !!! It flew terribly, very tail heavy, wanting to flip over and couldn't handle a light breeze. Bit by bit I reduced the tail weights until I had none,,, still a bit 'drifty'. Ended up with the lipo 'just' visible peeking out of the hatch. Then it flew properly,,, perfect stall turns, nice rolls and fast low passes were easy.... Landing also easier because although more nose heavy, it keeps nice and level.
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Lipo mounting tip!!!! Slide it in on its side, not flat. Then cut a little piece out of the canopy 'tab' so when you slide the canopy in it 'grabs' the lipo. This works very well. The foam block I put in before the lipo is 'c' shaped which also holds the lipo in place.
I purchased one, shipped from Hong Kong.. Beautiful bird, but she is a bit finnicky. Gotta get the CG correct, otherwise she'll buck and dive like a wild bull... 4-bladed prop breaks very easily, so watch your landings. If you nose into the ground, the prop will break. No questions about it. Landing gear wasn't glued in very well at all...
OK...got this beauty.. build was easy ..very nice scale plane from HK. I have one question about the ESC ..stock 35amp ... I am using the batteries i have already..3c 3700mah 65c... and havn't flown it yet cause of weather but just running in the motor no more than half throttle for 10-15 min. the ESC gets very hot but battery stays cool. Is this normal?
Yes its normal. You can open up some holes in the nose of the plane to get more airflow over the ESC to help cooling. Your battery C rating has nothing to do with how hot your ESC gets.
normal..yes but will it fry up in mid-fight? I was going to replace it with the Turnigy AE-65A just to be safe... but still only have 3 cell batteries some are 30c some 65c im new at this electric stuff.. will they all run ok either way?
I fly my p-51 bone stock and it hasnt fried yet. yes 30c and 65c will be ok. Easy way to figure out if your batteries will supply enough power is say if its a 35a plane like the p-51.. Take the mah of your battery.. for example 2200mah. multiply it times the C rating so 2200x30c=66,000 or 66A max draw for the battery. so your 3700mahX65C=240A max draw. and the plane only pulls around 30-35amp.
I recently ordered the Durafly P51D Mustang war-bird from hobbyking, but now noticed that there are not a huge list of parts to order for this bird. Does anyone else know where I am able to get more parts from( ie. Prop and Spinner assy)?
you can get all the parts for it when you click the durafly list under the planes tab it pops up planes and parts list it has almost all the parts needed for it.
thought hk made durafly plane's i went into the photo contest hk has for durafly plane's seen a spitefire but it's not listed on hk site anybody got answer for that one?
ya i done got the spitfire got problems with that too! rear wheel black servo arm well mine came it was busted been jumping threw hoop's for over a week now they say they have to order the part then send it to me maybe fall before i can use it.wish it was on the parts list.
No. You would probably be successful finding a Tamiya, or Model Masters dealer.I use Hobbylinc or EBAY. They have a wide selection of colors. I use the acrylics and have had no problems. Otherwise some fellas have taken their planes to a paint store and had the paint matched. Then gotten the small sample size can, and used that. Again, they use the acrylic, and some have tried house paint with success.
well i got the retract fixed had to put in a new one support got in touch with me sent another one out fixed it.ya its a nice plane like it alot now if can find some green paint to do touch ups with be all set.
it ussualy take a few days for them to respond to anyone due to the ammount of people containg them for any reason
i have a problem for the rudder servos and am waiting(since yesterday)
hey i recycled my retrack about 4 time's since i got this well today went to go fly and no retrack one side works the other side don't took it out nothing tried the other one and pluged it into receiver it works switched it around tried everything still will not work make's a noise but nothuing anybody have this problem?
i have a mustang with retracks and if thay are bent in the direcsion of wing thay cant finish the up posision thus thay cant come down if this is the problem the retrack its self is probily going to get warm try geting under the tiyer and carefully priy it up so gear can finish its ciycal.v.b.
no that is not it they worked fine about 15 time's over 3 day period then went to go fly it one worked the other one nothing took it out hooked straight to receiver nothing hooked other one up work's fine it's just the one.
Love the plane. Looks great and retracts work like a champ. But for the life of me I cannot get the flaps to work. I use a Turnigy 9x v2 TX and cannot get it working. Just one position flaps, on a toggle is all I want. Anyone know how to program it?
haha i got one there too! if same guy he is alittle hard to understand but his mix's work,that's where i got one at myself just seeing if maybe there was another way to do it thanks!
It isnt a CG problem, mine does the same exact thing, there is a certain technique that will work for you, mine is: Just keep the power in it and and bring it in kind of hot, BUT whatever you do dont "cut the throttle" until you are within about 1-4 inches of the ground and have a comfortable amount of speed.... HAPPY LANDINGS :)
Yeah, been flying for over 30 years so have that part figured out..... I was curious what other owners were doing with theirs. Probably put a spacer in front of the battery to move the CG back. I'm used to flying Park Zone and EFlite planes and haven't run into this problem in a while.
Jimmy
Also *lesmvan, or anyone who has flown this plane, how easy is it to fly? I have never flown a **real** 6ch let alone a 4ch. well only on sims like clearview
It flies quite well from an experienced flyers point of view. It is now a first timers plane, or even a second for that matter. Quite possibly a third timers plane, simply for the speed and slightly unforgiving (when compared to a trainer) characteristics. As far as the 6 channels, there is no rule that you have to use flaps until you are comfortable, so now it's a 5 channel. And for the retracts, the same rule applies. Don't fumble with extra switches until you are comfortable flying the
I agree with Bob. This P-51 has a pretty heavy wing loading, and is probably the least forgiving of the Durafly lineup. It's crisp and handles wind well, but has to come in hotter on landings, and more difficult to keep straight on takeoffs. Definitely for the more experienced pilots. If you really want to try a low wing in the 1100mm range, the Durafly P-47 followed by the A-1 are the most forgiving. If it's your first low wing, the Art-Tech Corsair with fixed gear would be my first recommendation to get used to low wings, then move up to the Durafly 6Ch line.
excellent product i changed the wheels to 2.1/4 db foams and rubber tail wheel. flight envelope with the 4 blade is impressive with a 2100 3s very scale outline flawless electronics with over 20 plus flights and have bought a second one. good luck parzone
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Overall Rating
modifiedmustang
524 likes
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1 thumbs up!
I really enjoy flying this plane. It's not a screamer, but it has a good roll rate and plenty of power.
Assembly was straight forward and mot much to do except bolt on the one piece wings, screw on all the control horns, glue on the elevator and a few plastic trim pieces and it's ready to trim and go.
The battery compartment is very deep and can easily handle a much longer battery than the 2200mah. It has approximately 3/8 " clearance around it as well.
Took off and landed on a football field, so the grass was no problem for the wheels. During the second landing, however, I hit a patch of weeds and it caught the gear, pulling the servo bay from the wing. No damage was done, but it revealed just two tiny beads of glue holding it in. I removed the other side and re-glued it as well and it's better than new now.
I was able to slow down very well without flaps and glide in both times with full elevator it floated down, no tip stall tendencies.
I have the T-28, P-40, F-4U as well, and next to the T-28 (a little zippier), this is my second favorite of the bunch.
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Matt
11 likes
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I bought this plane from the USA warehouse and got it within a week of ordering! The P-51 mustang is fun to fly and it looks great. You can’t beat the flaps and retracts that come with this plane. I did have a slight issue on a rough landing and one of the retracts came off. My suggestion when you get this plane, pull off the both retracts and re-glue them. Both retracts only had a little dap of glue on them. If you need a spare propeller like I did, you can use an 11x7 two bladed propeller it works great while the factory one is on backorder. You have to slightly modify the nose cone to fit the propeller. Thanks HK for a great product!
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IMA-PILOT
24 likes
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Great plane. Went together easy and instructions are so so. Not hard to assemble if you have done a few. Flys great and looks good in the air. Does way better than I thought it would on a 3s. Not the fastest but is pretty quick. Only issues are the servo should be sorter. They look like they should be on a bigger plane. You have to shorten the clevis way down or trim them and add a new z bend. Also the retracts are not glued in well. Mine came out on maiden and now the right won't deploy, also pulled off one of the drop tanks and scratch it it up. Got plenty of grass to belly land but I like to do rolling takeoffs, may have to disassemble the retract to see what is the issue. Not major issues to me because it flys so great but could not give it at five star. Of forgot flaps are great too.
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Linda
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This is one awesome plane. It has plenty of power for it to do all the ww2 dogfight stunts. Looks great on the ground but looks better in the air. Only thing I reccomend is to buy an APC prop for it because the stock prop is not very strong mine broke after two nose overs on the runway but like I said it is a very easy fix. All in all A
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