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Designed for planes only, the H-KING escs are an excellent choice for any plane requiring linear, sharp and reliable throttle response on a 35A esc.
H-KING speed controllers have strict end-of-line QC testing and are SMT (Pick-n-Place) in the same room as the through-hole soldering(wires, capacitor) and packaging is done. Improving quality and reducing contamination and inconsistencies due to transportation. The H-KING 35A includes an XT-60 and 3.5mm gold plugs pre-soldered, plus to make it even easier it comes pre set-up with LiPo settings and Auto cell detection. The H-KING Speed Controller includes a 2A BEC (Battery Elminator Circuit) to power your receiver, there is no need to have a seperate receiver battery. The H-KING range of ESCs are both economic and reliable, plus they dont need any setup or soldering. Just plug it in and fly!
hey, my 35A FMS esc is broken i think, because it makes weird noises and heats up a lot so i need a new one, but i have a spare 30A speed controller,does the 5A make any difference? or should i just buy a new one?? Thanx
That depends on what motor you have attached to your aircraft. Try to see if you can find what ESCs are recommended for it. Also, you mentioned that your 35A ESC is broken and it heats up. Make sure that the motor isn't too much for the ESC.
I just received one of these. I like it ALOT. I've soldered countless connectors to ESC's and its really nice to have one ready to go. Figure in the cost of the connectors and heat shrink tubing (and my time saved not soldering) and the price becomes even more attractive. I had 4 motors that I wanted to test and I was able to just grab this ESC and go. Hopefully HobbyKing will market more ESC's (HINT HINT) that come with connectors.
That's to let you know its armed. The beeping should serve as a reminder that if you throttle, your prop will turn (and its a nice reminder that you're using the battery)
I put this ESC in a foamie and it got pretty warm (not hot) after two minutes from just ground testing (setting up servos and testing motor/propeller). I had five servos hooked up to it, which also include flap servos. My question is if its normal for this esc to pretty warm from mild testing on the ground or could it be a bad servo or just too many servos (flaps) hooked up to it? I am worried about it burning out in the sky, if its a bad servo or too many servos does it have a cut off or will it just burn out during flight? The plane is a P47 that only requires a 30amp esc for the motor, and I don't have a servo tester to see which, if any, of the servos are bad. Best answer will receive credit. Thanks.
Does any one know what the cut off voltage on this ESC is.
I destroyed to many LIPO's because i drained my LIPO to much. (CHINA ESC's)
If your LIPO is going below 3,3V the ESC should cut off power. Draining the LIPO to much might lead to a bulged battery. I guess everyone can image that pressure in that LIPO goes to a certain point and then it starts to leak/ burn.
A good ESC should cut off power at 3.3V
regards PJ
Mine cuts off power at 3.2 under load, which is 3.5 on load.
If you cut throttle and power up, it gives you 10 seconds, and cuts off again, in case you need throttle to get back on the ground.
The turnigy ones will slowly decrease throttle starting at 3.5 down to 3.1
Yes they are programable but I have not seen a programming card for them. You have to use your transmitter to program it. It is not all that hard to do.
These are not programmable with the "plush" programming cards. Instead, you will need this one which is unfortunately only at the international warehouse: www.link
This ESC will work fine in the Bixler, but you won't see a huge increase in power from the stock motor. Increasing the current capacity (i.e. bigger ESC) doesn't increase the amount of power (watts) the motor will produce by default. Also, your 1300mah LiPo can't safely produce more than approx. 25A, and will only fly for a total of 3 minutes at that power. Cheers!
Hi Bobulisk, There's no ideal battery. Going with a bigger battery will give longer flight times, but the price you pay is added weight. Several people I know are flying Bixlers with up to 1800mah, but the plane doesn't fly any better, just longer. Bixlers were never meant to be sport/aerobatic fliers, but are intended to be an easy plane to learn basic flying skills and some very basic aerobatics.
Actually people are using 2200mah 3s lipos with Bixlers. I would say to go with a Nano-Tech or Zippy Compact, they are both smaller & lighter than regular lipos of their capacity & voltage, but any battery that does what it supposed to do will work fine. Though I've seen test with Nano-Techs that are 65C discharge & they actually give more power, but it's not much
what aussie said. a higher rated esc won't increase a motor's speed. It will run cooler than your 20a if you're having heat issues in that the 30a won't be working as hard (so to speak). Also, increasing the mA capacity of the battery will give you longer flights, but added weight. For more punch, you'd need a higher kv motor (more weight), and a higher output C rating (remember : low mA high c = short flight) No offense to the bixler airframe, but overpowering it too much and you're just gonn
its not recommended to use that motor and esc with a 4s from the factory but i have this setup in my hughes h-1, and it works really well for me I have had about 20 flights on it and no problems so far. So I can say from experience it worked for me and should work for you.
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So far a great product fast shipping good service with this order. I'm using the 35amp esc with a 600 watt motor and a 3 cell 50c discharge battery and so far its held up great ill be testing out a 4 cell here shortly.
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