So, you want a fast parkflyer!? Forget boring scale details and shelf queen good looks this F4U Corsair is built for speed and all out fun! Dog fight with friends on 3S or use a 4S pack for heart pounding high speed passes, either way the Fun fighters have you covered. The combination of the light weight EPO airframe, a high power brushless motor and a simple aileron and elevator setup place these models amongst the most exhilarating park flyers to hit the market this year. Dont be left out of the fun!
This model comes plug and fly and only requires a few minutes of assembly time and flies like its on rails thanks to the one piece molding technique used in the construction. All you will require to have the F4U Corsair in the air is a 3~4S 850mAh 20C Lipoly battery and your own transmitter and receiver (Tx/Rx)
I've just registered as a member here, totally new to the RC world.
Can someone give me advise on what would be a good beginner model and what radio controller and receiver to buy?
Hi, the axn floater jet would a good first electric plane to start off with , very forgiving and when your ready it can go pretty fast plus you will never outgrow it ...
Buy the kit version and add your own esc and servos as the stock ones are ****.....
I would defiantly not buy this funfighter or any warbird as a beginner plane as it will almost certainly end in disaster (it did with me anyway) too small and too fast for a first plane
I have just received my f4u but i don't seem to have the control horn and the wire for the elevator. Is this the standard kit or is it something missing? And also I've got some spare araldite rapid adhesive left just wanted to verify whether its safe to be used to glue the bits together. Many thanks
kit should be complete, araldite is a strong multipurpose glue so I wouldn't risk it on foam, you can buy specialised foam glues in hobby stores, I use 3M spray brand. You can get it at upholstrey supply stores or wood glue works well too, railway modellers use it for making scenery out of foam.
Hi every one, just a quick question. Can I use a Turnigy 3000mAh 4S 20C Lipo Pack in this airplane? HK Product ID: T3000.4S.20 hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?id Product=29000 Thanks in advance! :)
Eh, I understand the frustration, but fixing stuff on your plane makes it your own, and that is the hobby part of RC. I fitted my canopy so it is pretty good, and it flies very well. My ESC was DOA, but I put in a 30A Blueseries, which works perfect, and a 3 axis gyro, using only 2 axises.
Quite right fixing stuff does make it your own, but, yes a but, your not building one here, your buying a pre-done model, sadly, im sorry to disagree, when i build from plans, i expect to have to fiddle, when i buy a pre-made one, you shouldnt be required to have to bodge the airframe.
I say your point is valid too, But we didn't buy from another place, we bought from here. The other Hobby websites are a lot more expensive, to say the least. Now that I am fully back in the hobby, PNF planes will not due for me anymore. Back in the day (my back in the day was circa 1978), I was well known for my scratch built planes, and my ability to build from plans only. I built at least a dozen planes, all balsa, and this financed my plane. Anyway, I am in the process of building a scratch plane now, no plans, just my knowledge of aeronautics. You are right though, a loose canopy is a discrepency, and the Funfighter is not really PNF either, you need some soldering, which really makes it a good ARF.
I use a Nanotech 850mAh, 4S it is the ideal battery. As you say it is a fun plane and quite easy to fly. I was pondering myself on buying another. The canopy needs trimming but its the gap at the back which annoys me. With a little bit more effort this could have been a perfect little flier. Also, you have to change the included **** ESC particularly with 4S. Hand launches are easier with 4S as well it just goes straight up.
Thanks for the credit! I have a solution for the gap at the aft end of the canopy, get two 1mm carbon rods, slit the edges of the fuselage to accomodate the rods, and pushing them in 1/2" into the tail end of the fuse, below the line where the edges are, cut to fit the slit as needed, coat the rod with 5 min. epoxy, and install, holding the tail ben slightly upward until the glue dries, doing one side at a time. Gap gone! It will also be a whole lot more rigid!
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