USA warehouse now open. Our USA warehouse is now open! Low cost shipping and an ever growing variety make ordering from the US warehouse even better value!
I just soldered #10AWG too EC3's and Kwarf is right "precisely" would be the right word. I had to take a few strands off too make it work. But it works.
I use the Zippy 2200 mah 3 cell (11.1V) 25 C lipos from Hobby King. Cheap, loads of power for the plane, don't puff or come down hot. Mine have been holding up VERY well to loads of flights.
these connectors are designed to be soldered. Don't sweat it, just make a little jig. I did by drilling a hole in a s**** piece of wood. You can make the connection very easily. Than you put them together after the solder, so there is no worry about melting the connector. Great plugs!
It takes a little practice, but you can even heat the plugs adequately with a low powered pen solderer. I put a bit of solder on the outside, to help with heat conduction
One BIG trick is to put the insulators in hot water prior to trying to put the conductors into them. It softens the plastic.
You heat and fill 2/3 of the springs with solder, then put in the wire while keeping it hot for a few seconds and then let it set. Be careful not to get solder on the outside of the spring, or you'll have trouble fitting it in the housing.
Then press the spring into the housing from behind, push the last bit with a flat screwdriver until the spring goes pop. This last step is a good way to run a screwdriver through your finger unless you're careful, so please be.
They will break if you try crimping. the metal isn't pliable enough to crimp. Some crucial tips for soldering... heat the object to be soldered to the point where it is hot enough to melt the solder, not just so the the soldering iron or torch melts it otherwise you will get a "cold" solder that can come apart. I have seen plane crash due to cold solders. Pre-Tin the wire before hand. in other words heat the stripped wire until the solder melts and sucks into all the strands. just sticking the wire into a solder filled ec3 without pre-tinning will create a cold solder. The ec3 connectors work best to heat with a micro torch using a pliers then melt the solder into the hot connector. You HAVE to have flux core solder to create a proper amalgamation between your object to be soldered and the lead solder itself. Soldering is very hot, be sure to use pliers/clamps whenever possible so not to burn yourself
no, tottally different connector. Every major supplier uses a different connector. YOu have to decided if you want to convert it to EC3 of make up a short convertor plug yourself
I have tried to modify the XT60 that came on a battery before by filing on it to round it off to fit the EC3. Does not work. Better off staying with the right connector.
NO. They are not compatable in any way, shape or form. The EC3s, though a much more popular connector due to the mainstream of Horizon Hobby aircraft, ESCs and batteries are more difficult to plug/unplug. zthey each will handle the same amp load, but the housing makes the XT60's easier to use (especially when the temp is 20F and your fingers are frozen).
A battery with an ec3 will plug into a esc with a xt60 but not the other way around. I have modified an xt60 battery side to fit into an ec3 esc but to be honest it's better to just get an adaptor or change your connectors.
I'm using EC3 in trex 450 pro, ESC is 35A rated, but i think that it's pulling something about 50A in spikes. EC3 after the flight are warm, but not hot, they have tempreture from ESC and battery i think.
They take a bit of force to fully seat. I think it makes it a bit easier if they are still warm from soldering. A small punch or flat headed screwdriver and a tap from a hammer makes quick work of the matter.
If pin is pushed into connector when hot, it is possible to get the plastic hot and cause the connector to get loose and push back when connection. This happend to me. I suggest letting them cool and filing off any extra solder around metal.
it takes a lot of force to set the connector in the housing thought i had them seated but they came out that's when i found out that they were not fully seated
easier to tap in with screwdriver and hammer if you dremel the solder off that ultimately gets on the outside of the metal connector. If you are able to keep the solder on the inside of the metal connector then carefully tap in metal piece into the plastic housing being careful not to crack the plastic housing
It is the easiest when the metal plugs are still warm right after they are soldered. But even if they are cold find a small flat blade screwdriver to snap them into place.
I cheat with these connectors. I solder the wires in and then just put shrink wrap on them. The female connectors get wrapped all the way to the end while the males do not. This way I don't have to snap on the plastic housing.
They do take some force to assemble into the plastic housing. I use a small hex wrench and push on the wire end of the connector while it is still warm (NOT HOT) after soldering. I solder one, assemble it then do the other. James
There is an excellent video on You Tube which shows exactly how to wire these up and how to insert the plastic cover successfully. Try the following www.link If this link fails then Google How to wire an EC3 connector.
I use a little stick to snap them in the housing. Don't push them into the housing when they are still hot - it will melt the connector - even if not visible, you will see it's not a tight fit between connectors. Also listen to a "click" sound, that's when you know that they have locked. The connectors need to be on the front (probably 2mm inset) of the housing.
I use a small flat bladed screwdriver on the edge of the connector and push them in from behind with a hard thump. if your using a metal bench (like i do) then put something non conductive down so you dont short the battery.
They snap great into place.. just make sure the wires are not two thick.. I also if the wires are thick.... you can shorten the EC3 a bit with ur balde.. works like a charm for me all the time
Robert I meant as the single types not pairs. Look up the T connectors (deans) and HC sell pairs packs and male packs and female packs. I bought 5 of THESE packs when they first came out at about $2.95 and as such have ore than i can use for ESC's but start to run out of battery ones therefore it would be economical to sell split packs. P.S. It was I who got HC to make the HXT ridges on the T connectors :)
Guys, I know its 10 of each in this pack as I bought 5 packs when they first came out as stated 3 replies above. What I want is separate packs of JUST males OR JUST females!!!!!!
3.5 mm great connector I use them as well just make sure put the housing onto wires before soldering then just push them into housing until they click.Done.
Yes, this is a 3.5mm connector. If you need the exact measurements: male has a variable diameter of 3.3-3.6mm (it is flexible to make friction). The female inner diameter is 3.3mm and outer diameter is 4mm. Plastic (blue) is 16x16x8mm. Good luck.
Thes connectors are 3.5mm same as the 3.5mm bullets with housing the(red ones)the only difference is these EC3 plugs are a bit shorter than the 3.5mm bullets with red housing.Otherwise same amperage rating on both connectors around 80A.
I just bought the same Turnigy 3S 5000mAh pack and it comes with 10 AWG size cable. Although the largest cable I have used with EC3 connectors is 12AWG, you should be able to fit 10AWG into the connector if you shave off a few strands or file off any strands that stick out after soldering.
The wires on that battery are 8AWG, to fit those into an EC3 you would have to trim quite a bit off to slim the end down. EC3's are generally only meant to take between 16AWG and 12AWG wires, I would switch to an EC5 if you are going to use those batteries
Yes, the wires for that 5000mah battery pack are too thick to fit nicely into these connectors. However, I was able to trim a bit of the wire away around the circumference to make them fit, and I haven't had a problem. I am actually using a 4S 4000mah pack, which looks very similar.
If you don't want to trim the wires, I think EC5 connectors would fit.
I just received a nanotech 3S 3000mHr pack and it has 12AWG cable and comes with 4mm connectors. It was easy to remove the 4mm connectors and re-solder the 12AWG wire into the 3mm connectors of the EC3 connectors. I have been using the EC3 in all my aircraft planes and battery packs.
12 AWG should be fine, but that is the largest you should go, at 10AWG you will need to start triming the diameter of the tinned end to make it fit correctly.
Wow, it all has to do with preference. I use both and there is no difference on soldering. They both are very easy to do. As to cover wires, well that's just silly, heat shrink works just fine on both to cover wires. As for contact of the surfaces, they are close to identical.
There are discussions on some of the well known RC forums about this subject. Personally I would not use them with more than 50A and would recommend you to use the EC5 or something similar in such a case. I use them in several planes with currents up to 45A. They never get hot, perhaps a little bit warm. There was never a problem using the EC3 since I decided to declare them as my standard connector for mid size planes. So, you could use it, but why take the risk of loosing a model if you can purchase better suited connectors for low money? Better get the EC5 for what you plan to do and have fun! Thanks!
Be careful. The last batch I received, the battery end ALL split open after they had been installed for a few days. I've used a lot of these before with no issue, but the last batch must be too brittle.
For all of you guys who are still looking for some information regarding the handling of these connectors: I would recommend you the good old youtube. Use EC3 as keyword and you will find some interesting videos. That was what me helped. Greetings, Oliver
To assemble correctly: Use the smaller blue piece with the female gold piece and observe polarity. Hold the gold piece in pliers, heat with soldering iron and fill the "cup" about 1/2 full, then dip the tinned wire in and let it cool. While it's still warm, press in from the back of the connector with a small screwdriver until the connector snaps into place. When doing the battery, be sure to do only one side at a time so that you don't risk a short.
Big blue housing with male gold pieces = ESC side. Small blue housing with female gold pieces = Lipo side.
When you make a mistake when assembling or stop using a product, just recover the gold pieces using a bench-vice and a bolt to push the gold pieces back out.
the user that wrote "Customer Rated 27/08/2009 Customer | Cheap and good. But the construction alows connections the wrong way. It is not hard to connect the - to the + to you blow up your ESC (I did it twice)."
probably had the copy version, i just recieved 30 pc. from hobbycity and they are far better than the ones i recived when i orderd the series connector from hobbycity, these plugs are darker in color and harder in the plastic. and CANT be connected the wrong way around and the plugs are ressed so they cant short on any flat metalic surface.
The construction does NOT allow wrong connection for either of them. The problem is from the handler not installing the bullets right. The thing is to learn from the first mistake. To do the same mistake twice? Some people seem not to learn. Deans and the new "Blow socks" connector are for sure not "bad", but too old fashioned for me, as long as we have HXT and EC3 connectors to choose from.
As for old fashioned (I'm not real sure what that has to do with connector performance), the HXT style connector was introduced by Graupner years prior to the introduction of the Deans connector. That would qualifiy it as the most old fashioned.
Dunno what your problems are soldering up these plugs :(
Just Google to 'E-Flite EC3 Connector Assembly Tips by Jim Booker'. There's even a video there, which makes assembly of these connectors foolproof, which they actually are in use as well! The illustrated written instructions there are good too. Best thing is that HK sell 10prs for US$5.99 ... when they've got any :( ... whereas most other sources are about the same price, maybe a bit less, for a single pair!!! I just wish HK would get more in stock ... how aboout it Hobbyking, there's a heap of people waiting for this obviously much better product??? Although possible, as far as stripping them from old equipt to use again, why would you bother at Hobbyking's prices. I possibly would if I had to pay the other higher prices from elswhere though, as I used to do with expensive Deans plugs.
Reply to Don! There are four things to a connector: Performance (volt and A rate), handling, quality (material duration, melting point etc) and installation (leads soldering, Schrink tube etc). Having this in mind it is easier to judge a connector. I dont have invention date on all connectors on the market, but both MPX and Deans I have seen (and used) for a very long time and can not see the advantage for either of them.
The only way is warming the gold connector and then push it out, but it's easier with the female connector than the male... With this price you should just cut your wires and solder in a new one... *)
They are not designed to come apart and if you try the plastic will usualy streech out of shape and wont plug together again very well and will likely come apart just when you don't want it too :-(
Almost impossible without destroying the blue plastic cap. You have to cut away the blue cap in order to get to the solder. If its really important to save the cap, try this: heat the bullet with the solderiron from the other side of the wires (but not so much that the plastic melts, and try to pull them out. The heat will soften the plastic enough for you to get out the bullet.
the easyest way to disasemble:
when for examle disasembling a female. take a lose male gold connector and put it in the female connector and pres on the blue plastic down on a flat surface. that wil pop out the female gold connector and when pulling it out completly the male connector wil come lose, wola you have taken the ec3 connector appart and you havent damaged it. the plastic should be warm 25 degrees celcius plus. it wont work if its colder the plastic is to hard at that temperature.
heat the body of the connector up with a hair dryer, then with an oven mitt hold the body of the connector in one hand and pull the bullet connector out with the other, once the bullet connector is out unsolder it. I have reused the same connector a couple times.
These come out just the opposite of the red plugs. Here I place an extra pin on one of the pins in the housing and place it against table top and then push down on blue housing popping the pin out.
Can this type of connector be reused? For example, I always take out dean plug from my spoil battery for reusing. However, I am not certain on this type of plug whether I can pull the bullet apart from plastic shell. Can any experience user give me a guidance. Thank in advance for your suggestion.
Its really hard to reuse the blue caps. The bullets are easily reused, as you probably understood.
Its possible to get the bullets out from the cap again, without cutting the cap by doing: Heat the bullet from the connection-side so the plastic becomes somewhat soft (not melting!), and pull / wiggle the bullet out. This with varying results!
you really can't because once you snap them back out of the plastic shell the shell is no longer any good and they are cheap enough to just replace the shell
Yes, I use a hair dryer to heat the body of the connector then I grab it with an oven mitt with one hand and pull the wire out with the other, once the bullet connector is out you can unsolder it and reuse it on something else.
Place an extra pin male on female or female on male. Then place exposed pin on hard surface and push down on blue housing popping the pin with the wire out the back side...then de-solder the pin and use again.
These connectors are very easy to use and should handle more current than the Deans that they are replacing. As for assembly, the connectors can be inserted from either side - just make sure that they lock in place. Based on the design of the connectors and grips, though, it should be easier to insert the bullets from the grip side.
These do not insert from the grip side. I followed the instructions on the hobby zone site and that tells you to put them in from the grip side. Pass the wire through the plastic, then solder and then push the bullet in.
Harold, I have to disagree with you. I have been equally successful installing them from either side. It doesn't matter. They are designed to work either way. I use a very small slotted screwdriver to push the pin into the grip until I hear an audible snap which tells me that it is fully seated. I have found it easier to insert the pin into the grip from the wire (grip) side.
They really are inserted from the grip side, but you have to do it right after soldering the bullet, so the bullets are still quite warm (hotter than touching) so the plastic becomes somewhat soft. That allows the bullet to snap into place.
Unfortunately the description of items are usually quite ***r. So with these. Are they originals or pirate. Originals when bullets are inserted from the grip side. When the name is EC3 it got to be 3,5mm bullets. I suppose originals because otherwise the article no would be EC3-M-F-10!!??
Recommend for everyone not commited yet to wait till the new plug in town announced in the twitter comes out and HC sticks with a std for the batteries. Halted conversion of everything to 3.5 and 4mm red bullets pending HC's battery choice. Personally I don't like the red bullets nor the deans. EC3 is slightly better. Let see what the new plugs brings.
To my mind the bullet connectors are far better to handle (solder) than deans. The only thing I am angry about: hc sells the new lipos with bullet connectors, i bought many bullet connectors because i thought this is meant to be the new standard and converted some escs an soldered adapters. And just a few days later i read about the VERY new adapters in the twitter...
+1, would have just bit the bullet and stuck to the bullet if not for questionable plastic quality. The bullets pops out after a while. The plastic is easy to dent/warp making insertion tough.
60A is the max for these, the EC5's up to 120A. In my opinion they are among the easiest of connectors to solder. I have just ordered 20 Pair of the EC5's to change the whole fleet over.
I don't know the exactly specification but I have used them in several planes with a maximum of 40A. I never recognized any heating after the flights. Relating the soldering, it's most of all the same procedure as with all the other connectors. While doing this you should take care that the tin will not leave the connector. If it happened, remove it from the connector by using a knife. Otherwise it could be possible that the connector will not fit into the plastic.
The EC3 connectors can handle 60amps continuous. These connectors are easy to solder wire to, just tin the wire first then melt some solder in the "cup" part of the connector then with the solder still in a liquid state insert the tinned wire. the only thing you have to look out for is not to fill the "cup" too full, if you do and the solder gets on the out side of the bullet you can't insert the bullet into the connector housing.
I'm using these plugs instead of the deans... I hate deans!
7 comments. Reply..
Overall Rating
tomasstrom
18 likes
Value
UNRATED
Quality
UNRATED
5 thumbs up!
I have no idea how other brand EC3 connectors look but I can tell you that I am very very pleased with these. Easy to solder, snaps tightly in housing, rotating plug, nice finish and connects very good. Very happy with these and recommend them to all.
I think these connectors are great - good quality, easy to solder. You need to push firmly on the connectors as you slide them into the hub with a screwdriver until they click in place. Hace replaced all my connectors with these and will be buying another pack!
Copyright 2012 Hextronik Limited.
The HobbyKing.com®, OrangeRx, Turnigy, Durafly, nano-tech and other brand logos and names are trademarks of hexTronik Limited.
All rights reserved
.jpg){kind=small}
