Here is the ampacity (maximum amount of current) that each size of this silicon wire can handle. Keep in mind that this is just a rule of thumb as ambient temperature and air flow will make a difference.
i have a savage flux and bought 10awg. I drive 4s 40-130C. 10awg are really thick and definitly OK for your purpose.
Deans are so small, there is not much space between and -! I suggest if you use 12awg you end up in a short circus...
Finaly i changed to EC5 and i am happy that i have done that change! Pretty much better connection in my mind and better to plug, soldier etc.
Comming back to your question, take B10A1780-06 (black) and R10A1780-06 (red).
HK reps could not answer these questions. Could someone please tell me:
1) What is the strand count on this wire? Does the "1780" in "R10A1780-06" refer to its strand count?
2) What is *low* temperature capability of these wires? I know that they support 200C, but I need to know how cold they can get and still operate.
3) What is the current capacity of these cables? The Turnigy Watt Meter has 12ga cables and supports 130 amps, so I assume this cable supports even more amps.
4) Do these cables have a UL rating? For example, UL94 V0 flame-retardant?
5) When people purchased these cables in longer lengths than only 1 meter, do they receive a s***l of single wire, or do they get the full length cut up into separate 1m segments? Like most people, I want the former.
Sorry for spamming these discussion links, but that's what an HK rep told me to do. :( Thanks in advance for your replies.
I can verify that, if you order more than 1 meter, it will come in one piece (my 3m order came in a single 3m piece). I'm not going to attempt to count the strands, but it is fine-stranded. I would guess 200-300 strands. I'm not sure about exact current and temperature ratings, but I've used similar wire in 80-amp continuous, 400-amp burst situations with no problems.
1) Stand count is very high, hard to find higher. 1780 sounds reasonable
2) The upper temp limit would be the rating of the silicone rubber insulation, no lower temp limit (the lower the better for conductivity!) 3) Note: 130A peak for the 12AWG not continuous. Always use the thickest you can afford $ and weight wise - less resistance/heat/energy loss 4) I doubt it. Getting UL ratings costs $. Silicone rubber is considered heat resistant. Teflon better, PVC worse.
1) strand count > in the description is written High strand count. AWG10 can have 10 a)37×26 b)49×27 c)105×30. With high strand count, I believe,it will be No.C ********> 2)Low temperature : As low as you want (from elec.point of view.)If you reached the absolute Null-point, the wire will be have a resistant with 0Ohm (Supraleiter).Each cable works better, if it is cold as if it is hot (the resistant is growing)********> 3)current capacity > in depend of temperature, Isolation, length: Pls have
The strand count is around 49/18 (49 strands per bundle, 18 bundles total)or 882 strand. Being silcone insulated wire, it will be good from around -40 to 200 degC. below -40DegC and the silicone gets brittle and cracks. To get a UL rating the cable needs to be put under extensive testing and R/C doesn't need this qualification. The cable is good for 180A continuous and from my last order of 5m it was in one length.
how do u solder this? i'm trying to make Y cable, and it goes very well in to the HXT 4mm gold connector - solders wery well to the connector. but it is impossible to solder wire-to-wire to make Y cable... i've tried 120W soldering iron, i've tried soldering torch - nothing. the wire just does not heat enough. any suggestions?
Silly answer - yes - the post may sound stupid, but i do not consider myself that much crazy :) As i mentioned, the cable solders very well in to the connector, but no matter what i try, i just can't solder wire-to-wire... solder simply does not melt in to the wire - it melts, and stays on top of the wire. the exact same happens with or without flux. When i try to use a propane-driven soldering iron (to have higher temperature, the red cable just turns black due to heat, but wires do not solder to each other - the solder just stays on top of wire in melted state.
i sold them with a 50 watt soldering iron so i think it schould be no problem
you have to put solder on both ends and then hold together and put the soldering iron as long as all solder is melted onto the wireends.
Soldering 10AWG wire is not easy. If you have a fatter tip or can get a fatter tip for your soldering iron, that will help. The wire will take time to heat and get hot for a good 3-6 inches down it, not much avoiding it. You can also try a blowtorch, just being careful not to burn the sheathing or other things in your workspace (I highly recommend a garage or driveway for blowtorches).
Using a flux pen to get flux into the many wire stands can help with 'wetting'. Another idea: solder three connectors on well (gas stove helps here), unsolder them (gas stove again), then solder these now free pre-soldered cable ends together.
The 120W soldering iron should work. Make sure your iron is clean. Put as much tin on your iron as possible (so it will drown the wire). Apply more tin at the same time as when the wire touches the tin on the iron. Keep feeding tin as the wire will suck it up and you have to continue until it is saturated.
To solder 2 wires together it is sometimes easier to first twist them together and then solder them together (then you only have one object to solder). But make sure you always have enough tin
Dip both ends in soldering flux and heat up the flux so it melts onto the wire. Simply touch the wires together or lightly twist them together, then heat/drip solder onto the connection. If done right, the flux prepped wire will simply "absorb" the solder into the joint/connection. I had the same problem you mentioned and adapted the above strategy to make things work.
If you want to make a Y-Wire, cut the isolation and connect the cable as you want to have it.
A normal solder station is enough for this work:
The temperature should be ~350°C. Use an extra soldering flux, put the copper bit in and hold this on on the pure cable. Ensure, that the flux will be go between the cable(it's easier) Connect the soldering tin on the cable ( up from the copper bit) and go sure, that the tin could be running on every place of the mod. cable.
!Attention: the cable will be
Does the solder "take" to the wire, if not the wire is dirty or hasn't been "prepped" by the flux. Start at the cut end and slowly apply heat and once the solder starts to melt, keep applying until the flux inside cleans the wires and starts to track back up the cable. it will take time but getting the cable hot at the end without the heat being absorbed up the cable is the problem.
*edit* I meant to proofread that, and hit submit, this part "You should not melt the solder with the iron, you should melt the solder with the wire, the wire gets heated from the solder. " should be "you should not melt the solder with the iron, you should melt the solder with the wire, the wire gets heated from the soldering iron first,then the wire melts the solder." HK should allow you to edit for a day or something
Andy, most likely your soldering iron has a very narrow tip. You need flux to clean the contact surfaces, good solder and a wide tip as narrow tips tend to make it hard to heat up a larger surface. Also a work area clear of any breeze will help a lot. Hope this helps.