The now famous HK401B is known to have the same characteristics as the Futaba GY401. In fact we guarantee you wont know the difference! No tail drift, excellent hold characteristics and a level of reliability only found in $100+ gyros. Dont risk your heli with other cheap Gyros when the HK401B has been proven by thousands of pilots to be stable and accurate in a variety of temperatures and helicopters.
Compatible with both Digital and Analog systems
Minimizes rudder trim changes caused by wind, other meteorological changes, and varieties of helicopter attitude changes are automatically cancelled.
Sensor vibration proofing
Simple sensitivity adjustment
Digital proportional RIC system
Operating voltage: 4.8V ~6V( common for receiver)
Operating temperature: -lOL r-.rf-45 C
Dimensions: 28x26x20 mm
Operating current: 80mA
IMPORTANT: Make sure you isolate your Gyro from vibration. Use double sided foam tape and never use cable ties. Vibration will cause harm to the Gyro and degrade performance. Manual found in the files section below.
The gyro does not require any special servo. You can switch the gyro between analog and digital mode. So any servo works. Requirements for servo seed or torque only come from your application not from the gyro it self.
Hmm, never heard about that. Is it somewhere confirmed that the gyro runs at 333Ht? I think that is a myth! I've used several different tail servos on my HK450 and all of them were rated not higher than 250Hz. Never had any problem with the 250Hz servos.
Sometimes when a servo is slow there is a time delay between what the gyro wants to happen and what the servo ends up doing. This results in poor piro stop quality which means bounce back. So delay setting is used to make piros more better
I used this gyro with a HK-732 servo on the tail of a 450 heli and the servo got very hot - almost too hot to touch. I had the delay at 50 and the limit at about 110. The DS dip switch is on
Does anyone have any suggestions what is wrong?
I recommend setting the switch to AS. When on DS, it operates at 333Hz and it seems your servo can't handle that frequency. No matter if digital servo or not, the AS setting (75Hz) is the way to go if you want to be safe.
Hi, If you are concerned about doing the mod unscrew and remove the back plate, If the micro board is lose,
apply a dab of hot glue to each corner securing the board to the sides of the box, refit the back plate and away you go
They perform more or less equally. The main difference is, that the g106 is much smaller than this one. So the g106 is better suited for smaller helis like 250size. On a 450 you can also go with this one.
I've never seen a rotating weight in a gyro, though there is a deli across town that serve bbq gyros that make my stomach rotate. Anyway, this is a vibrating structure gyroscope that utilizes a piezoelectric material electrically induced to vibrate, and lateral motion due to centrifugal force can be measured to produce a signal related to the rate of rotation. So, generically speaking, the "gyro" doesn't move.. instead, what it is connected to moves (that pesky rotational weight) so it still counts as a gyroscope.
The gyro or the gyroscope is based on a rotating wheel or wheight if You want. Directional gyros have been used in aircraft for many years, but I think they are out of service now. I could also mention the turn and bank indicator thats also based on the effect of a gyroscope.. If You never have seen a rotating wheel or wheigt in a gyroscope You have not seen a gyroscope....
Ha ha. now i understand why You got trouble with your stomack if you eat a Gyroscope. In Norway we always use the short wersion of gyroscope and say only gyro. I dont think the turn and bank indicator is based on the effect of a sandwich. *-)
Yes, but is a bit tricky.
You need to start in AVCS mode, then change to normal mode, and turn the rudder to one limit in order to inicializate de ESC, finaly yo can go again to AVCS mode.
While land, the tail not stop in normal mode, only in AVCS if you move the rudder to one limit.
You can also, programing the transmiter that when throtle cut is on, rudder is to one limit, in order to stop the tail.
Actually DS means a frequency of 333Hz and AS 75Hz. Not every digital servo can handle 333Hz and might burn, so AS is the safe position.
Delay has also to be set correctly, not always 0 just because it's in digital position though the manual states so.
I would not use an analog servo as tail servo. If you just learn to hover a analog servo like the HXT900 will be OK. But as soon as you fly around a bit more you will want to have a quick tail servo. So better start directly with a digital servo like the D933MG.
Yes it works on a HK450. I used it before. But since a while I switched to the GA-250 gyro. In my opinion the GA-250 performs a bit better with digital servos than this one. Also I always had a bit of nose drift with the 401B. But it was easy to trim that away, so in fact it was no big issue.
Help, please. Hello.
I would like to create a tricopter using a gyro hk 401b. I have such a tricopter flying in some clips on youtube. My problem is that the gyro controls the servo properly, but it can’t control the BLDC motor via the driver in any way. The BLDC motor driver isn’t initialized. The motor can’t be turned on. Do you have any results after using this gyro? I would be very grateful if you share this information with me. I really need some advice of a specialist. Thanks in advance.
Please, reply on my email: firstname.lastname@example.org
If you want altitude hold you need a barometer or GPS unit. A gyro can only sense an incoming forces and try to counter-react. For altitude hold you need an auto-pilot system that includes either barometer or GPS.
can this gyro level my plane, if I buy 3 for ailerons, elevators and rudder, if I let go my transmitter, will it fly in a straight line levelling ?
if not, what is the difference between this 401b and JCX-m6?
The main difference is that the JCX-m6 is specially designed fro airplanes. The 401B gyro is designed to be used in RC helicopters. Of course you can use three of these gyros on each of the airplanes axis. But be aware that this gyro needs a separate channel from your receiver to set the gain. So if you have three of those on your airplane you need three free channels available on your receiver. Otherwise you will not be able to set the gain of each gyro. Additionally the gyro (if you set it up for head-hold mode) will always try to keep it's axis in the last known state. So if you let go of the sticks it will not level the plane. If will just make sure that the axis is kept in that angle as it was.
I use the i86, eagletree, OrangeX and old kk2 stabilizer boards on my planes. There are features of the 401B gyro which are for head lock/tail lock of the heli but not useful for ailerons where the i86 and other stabilizer board are optimized for planes especially the eagletree where you can also adjust the gain of all there stabilizers with one channel.
i figured for the price i couldnt resist trying one of these and i am not dissapointed this things works great just as good as my 401 futaba gyro you need to look at the mods section on this as i had to do that but the little time i spent doing the mod was more then made up for with the low price and great performance
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12 thumbs up!
I bought this gyro to try out for HK 450 it does very well ,hold the tail is solid with JR servo DS290G, First I received, inside board was sloppy & I try on heli it doesn't work, then I Open in back gyro I sim double tape to hold them inplace worked very well fly good,good for $ too