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迷你Fabrikator 3D打印机通过微小的男孩 - 橙 - 美国110V

迷你Fabrikator 3D打印机通过微小的男孩 - 橙 - 美国110V

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SKU:
9171000772-3
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迷你Fabrikator 3D打印机通过微小的男孩会吹你走带打印一个小机器可以生产的质量,这是堪比大机器很多很多倍的价格。我们与这带来了打印机市场的目的是为客户提供试用三维打印用,可容纳大多数爱好者的早期项目足迹成本效益的方式。由于这种打印机的整体尺寸小的它可以适用于,即使是最限于工作场所,并且可以被拾起和容易储存,使其成为理想的学校和学生。

原来TinyBoy打印机的设计帕克梁围绕一个概念,到2016年每个学生都应该有机会拥有自己的办公桌上三维打印机;青少年是我们的未来,这就是为什么我们背后得到的部分原因。另一个原因是因为不可思议的打印质量,您可以在此打印机实现这样的成本低。

如同任何计算机硬件迷你Fabrikator需要软件来运行它,我们推荐使用Repetier - 主机的打印软件,因为它是一个简单的设置和使用的程序,大多数客户将拥有和运行约15分钟。除此之外,打印机已经准备就绪。

我们还与partenered 微小的男孩 ,所以你能够使用自己的社区与其他用户讨论您的迷你Fabrikator,分享想法和炫耀你介绍最新的打印项目。您还可以找到其他有用的提示和技巧,Repetier台主机设置,手动副本,并保持及时更新从微小的男孩小组的最新消息, 请点击这里了解更多。

小小的男孩最初被设计为一个学习活动,其中在校学生将建立打印机本身,这意味着打印机是非常容易保养和维修自己,即使有东西像LED灯,直接冷却,液晶屏以及SD卡插槽,甚至升级加热打印床。

欲了解更多信息,观看这些视频:
每日视频
设置指南
打印指南

迷你Fabrikator由微小的男孩,3D打印为大家。

特征:

•它的整体规模大打印区域
•开源设计和支持
•与许多流行应用程序和软件兼容
•便携,易于设置
•方便社区驱动的DIY修改,面向未来
•马林基于硬件的能力与扩张
•娱乐为所有年龄段

眼镜:
尺寸:15厘米(宽)x 15厘米(深)x22厘米(H)(不包括长丝持有人。)
打印尺寸:80毫米点¯x80毫米点¯x80毫米
长丝:1.75毫米PLA
板:   mega2560 ramps1.4有4个A4988 stepstick
电源: 外接12V 6A变压器
软件: Repetier -主机

TinyBoy是一个开放式设计的3D打印机,你可以得到这里的细节 Github上的帐户(http://github.com/HKCOTA/TinyBoy) 这是一个在知识共享署名-相同方式共享4.0国际许可CC-BY-SA许可

  • SKU 9171000772-3
  • Brand Mini Fabrikator
  • 容量(mAh) -
  • 重量 4350.0000
  • 长度 400.00
  • Packaging Width 330.00
  • 高度 330.00
  • Mini Fabrikator 3D Printer By Tiny Boy - Orange - US 110V

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Great little printer! Shipping was very fast from Hong Kong; only 4 days to US. I have an Ultimaker 2 so I was a bit skeptical about the Fabrikator Mini. It arrived fully assembled and very well packed; no damage. I went through the setup in the manual. Only issue was the heated bed kept defaulting to "ON" and the print wouldn't start even though I was printing with a filament setting that sets the heated bed to zero. So I just changed the default filament settings and deleted my custom filament setting and everything worked fine. Printed some feet to raise the base for better air flow. First one printed fine. Then I got a terrible jam. I could not remove the filament. After disassembling the hot end I realized there was a burr in the heatsink preventing the bowden tube from being inserted fully. I cleaned up the burr by hand with a drill bit, reassembled everything, and it worked perfectly. Printed the rest of the feet and an octopus from Thingiverse. Print quality was very good with the default settings. The build volume is small but for the price it is the perfect for your first 3D printer.

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Great little printer! Shipping was very fast from Hong Kong; only 4 days to US. I have an Ultimaker 2 so I was a bit skeptical about the Fabrikator Mini. It arrived fully assembled and very well packed; no damage. I went through the setup in the manual. Only issue was the heated bed kept defaulting to "ON" and the print wouldn't start even though I was printing with a filament setting that sets the heated bed to zero. So I just changed the default filament settings and deleted my custom filament setting and everything worked fine. Printed some feet to raise the base for better air flow. First one printed fine. Then I got a terrible jam. I could not remove the filament. After disassembling the hot end I realized there was a burr in the heatsink preventing the bowden tube from being inserted fully. I cleaned up the burr by hand with a drill bit, reassembled everything, and it worked perfectly. Printed the rest of the feet and an octopus from Thingiverse. Print quality was very good with the default settings. The build volume is small but for the price it is the perfect for your first 3D printer.

I've had 8 days to play with mine so far. Only took 2 days to get here from HK. It's built pretty well but the tolerances on some parts could be better like the rail supports as they have a little slack. The screw for the y axis limit switch needs to lose the nut and possibly moved away from the switch by a mil to safely get the full 80mm. The X axis needs to be either set to 85mm instead of 80mm in the firmware to use the whole table and have it centered properly or set to 83 and move the switch closer to the outside of the machine a mil so its centered but not running the extruder right to the edge of the table on the other side. The z axis needs a notch on the top of the carriage corner so the wires for the limit switches don't get pinched on the last 2 mm of travel up top. The current limiters need to be set under the motor limits so people stop getting fried motors, mine were set a lot higher then the motors were rated for, and now work fine turned down although still hot. The extruder fan blows hot air all over the Y axis motor which explains why a lot of people lose y axis precision in the middle of long prints from it overheating so a better fan setup and/or y axis carriage arrangement is needed. The bottom of the machine needs to be vented with a fan and alot more passive vents to keep the 2 motors and board cool, i just printed the corner feet that are going around to have a big air gap on all sides and put a old pci slot fan underneath with the inlet facing up to b

verified_user Quality:
trending_up Value:
playlist_add_check Overall:

I've had 8 days to play with mine so far. Only took 2 days to get here from HK. It's built pretty well but the tolerances on some parts could be better like the rail supports as they have a little slack. The screw for the y axis limit switch needs to lose the nut and possibly moved away from the switch by a mil to safely get the full 80mm. The X axis needs to be either set to 85mm instead of 80mm in the firmware to use the whole table and have it centered properly or set to 83 and move the switch closer to the outside of the machine a mil so its centered but not running the extruder right to the edge of the table on the other side. The z axis needs a notch on the top of the carriage corner so the wires for the limit switches don't get pinched on the last 2 mm of travel up top. The current limiters need to be set under the motor limits so people stop getting fried motors, mine were set a lot higher then the motors were rated for, and now work fine turned down although still hot. The extruder fan blows hot air all over the Y axis motor which explains why a lot of people lose y axis precision in the middle of long prints from it overheating so a better fan setup and/or y axis carriage arrangement is needed. The bottom of the machine needs to be vented with a fan and alot more passive vents to keep the 2 motors and board cool, i just printed the corner feet that are going around to have a big air gap on all sides and put a old pci slot fan underneath with the inlet facing up to b

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