Pterodactyl Ornithopter EPP Composite-1300mm Rot (PNF)

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Building and flying the Pterodactyl Ornithopter EPP Composite

Apr 19, 2017

Well I have a different perspective as I have flown quite a few Ornis. This is quite a bargain for what you are getting. Most cost $500 or up and do not fly as well. OK Composit is a bit misleading since the spars are the only composit. Mostly EPS and plastic. With that said, My bird arrived with no damage and assembly was a breeze, Although I agree the instructions are misleading and totally useless, but I had no trouble figuring it out. They supply extra set screws so don't try to figure out where you missed something. The bird flies splendid and FAST. Launch is simple except hang on to it tightly when you start flapping. Watch your head it likes to bean you with the wing. The elevator trim is feet very slightly up from level. Not much though. I used my own RX and TX for the job since I have pro mixing functions and can tune it the way I like it. No need for any larger than 1300mah, as I get 8 minute flights. Its not sensitive so put in plenty of throw in the elevons. ( I use about 40 degrees). It flys solid, yes its stable as long as the wings are moving. If you stop the wings it acts like a duck that just took a load of bird shot. Its not always recoverable from this. It flys straight and stable. Will loop but not roll. Ok landing, that is a bit of a different thing since this bird does not glide at all. So I have been experimenting a little trying different approaches. The most succesful has been slow flapping and fly to ground level and level out. At about a foot or so cut power completely and pull full up. Ok controlled crash pretty much. Do it on grass not hard surface. One thing I notice is the long beak hangs down and catches the grass and flips it. I have cut around the neck with an xacto knife and reglued it with the neck up so the beak is higher. Epoxied a wedge on the bottom and open a slit in the foam on top. Careful you don't cut the wires that go to the LEDs on the eyes. The sound module works and so do the eyes. If you experiment blindly and plug stuff in wrong don't blame the mfg if you burn it out. Check the forums for info on how to do it correctly. No i don't work for them its just common sense. OK negative stuff. The webs on the feet holders are very weak and will probably break. I used a 1/32 piece of plywood cut to the shape of the web and glued it in place on both feet for reinforcement. The wing fabric at the fuse is hanging loose. Tuck it into the slot and use canopy glue on the bottom of the slot and squeegie the fabric down until it seeps through the fabric. Leave a little slack in the fabric so when the wing flaps it will not pull it loose. I have several flights and it has not pulled loose. Had a servo slip and the only way you can get to the arm to reposition it is cut a 1.5" square hole in the top of the tail. You can look into the side of the fuse to determine where to cut. Now you can unscrew the arm and reposition it. Then tack glue the piece back in. Hope this helps get it going, it is a fun bird and people really gather to watch when you fly it.

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Customer Rated

Jun 27, 2016

Hobby king knows full well about the sound module burning out. It happens to ALL PNPs. I sent them a video of non functioning sound system. Mine burned out TOO! My eye lights have also gone out too now so I plug battery into esc. Bunch of crap that this does this and no warning from HobbyKing who insists on denying problem instead of fixing it. No spare parts either, AGAIN? I need a need wing spare or wing as spare is glued into wing fabric. Mine still flew and was hit of our airshow until I broke wing, but no advertised sound and glowing makes product inferior.

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Customer Rated

Apr 25, 2016

The user manual is a nightmare, really is the user manual of unit with original radio, absolutely unusable for std rc.
For your convenience, in std rc use Vtail model option, to have control on both stick, rudder and elevator with model tailpiece, depend obsviously by your radio.
More then, audio module need a switch to be used , need to close 5V to audio signal for operation, use a controlled switch to aux or gear channel on your rc. (there is a detailed post on forum)
Be careful do not connect "alarm cable", are connected to battery powrr and you risk big damage on rx and all servo.....crazy things.......!!!

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Customer Rated

Apr 20, 2016

I had same results with bad servos. Tried to get HK to replace but they also wanted me to send back at my cost. Over $70 almost half of the cost. Manufacturerer should stand behind faulty products.

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Customer Rated

Apr 17, 2016

I can only write a bad review. The 1st one I received the feet servos were faulty could not fly it. received refund and tried another. The 2nd just recently arrived DOA (DEAD ON ARRIVAL) would not do anything in process of sending back. HK wants me to pay return shipping which is Over $62.00USD. The 1st one was in larger box and would have Cost $99.00 sent to warranty dept. in New York. They want us to re responsible for there mistakes. The manufacturer should pay due poor quality control

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Customer Rated

Mar 23, 2016

For those who want more sound you can add a second speaker as the sound board has a built in second output. Will need open the bird to gain access. The connected one is called LSP(left speaker) and there is a RSP connection available which works and is much louder when connected as well. Just need to source the the second high wattage 40mm small speaker 4 ohm 3 Watts and consider the exttra weight.
May need to add standalone UBEC to provide a safer 3A-5A 5V supply, as the extra sound channel may load down the the BEC 5V 2A supply due to extra current required for extra speaker and cause a crash. If using UBEC, remove red center wire ( 5V supply Bec) from ESC to rx. You can not double feed 5V without using isolating diodes generally as the outome is unknown.Eg ccould cause ESC to fail during flight or on the ground.

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Customer Rated

Mar 23, 2016

After searching another forum for the solution to the sound not working is a simple fix.
The connector(white/red/ black) from the sound card does not connect to the r xer, as it needs a switchable 5V on white wire(on/off) and 5VDC on red wire
and -Ve(gnd) on black wire. Buy a Turnigy Rx switch which connects to the rxer and then can switch 5V on and off to the white connector on the sound module
to turn the sound on/off.

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Customer Rated

Mar 23, 2016

disappointing to pay $200 to get a product that is should be PNF but the sound doesn't work as supplied and no instructions how to fix the problem. No mention anywhere
of this problem or how to fix and the angle of the feet/Elevon appear to be wrong as they point upwards by default and videos I have seen show the feet to be level.No easy way to adjust other than make a hole or remove a side.
I have not flown it yet.As per previous post do not connect alarm wire from ESC to anything as(12V) and no ovbious use.