The Tronxy X-3 desktop 3D printer kit is a great way to get into 3D printing without committing to an expensive upmarket printer.
With its clean, desktop design the X-3 is quick to assemble with extruded aluminum profile sections to make everything rigid and these, combined with strategic use of acrylic parts keep the weight to a minimum. Unusual for a printer in this price range the X-3 includes an auto-level function so you don't have to constantly check levels before every print which is quite common with many inexpensive printers.
As you can see from the product video the print quality from X-3 is exceptionally good considering the price you are paying for it. So if you need a printer that can print larger sized spare parts and usable prototypes this is an excellent option for you.
Need to take your laptop away while you're printing? No problem; the Tronxy X-3 can use either a direct USB connection to your computer or can print via a micro SD card, so that you can load whatever files you need to print onto that, put it into the printer and print from there.
The X-3 is compatible with Windows XP, Windows 7 and Mac systems and uses readily available Cura, Repetier-Host and Slic3r software for slicing into g-code for printing.
During operation the X-3 can be fine-tuned using the 5-button controls to navigate the easy to read white on blue LED display screen.
The build volume of 220 x 220 x 300mm is ideal for creating large objects.
Why wait? Take the plunge into the endless possibilities offered by 3D printing with the Tronxy X-3 desktop 3D printer!
• Compact desktop printer
• Quiet operation
• Heated print bed
• Optional auto-levelling function
• Supports off-line printing via micro SD card or USB
• 0.06 ~ 0.4mm layer resolution
• Easy to read white on blue LCD screen
• 5-button navigation
• Simple and easy to use
• Twin 10mm Z-axis screws for accuracy
• 12V 5A DC power source
Print size: 220 x 220 x 300mm
Bed heat: 40 ~ 110°C
Resolution: X/Y 0.012mm Z 0.004
Layer Resolution: 0.1mm
Print speed: 20 ~ 180mm/Sec
Technology: Extrusion (FFF)
Control board: Melzi 2.0 v5
Support Material: 1.75mm ABS, PLA, wood, nylon, PVA, PC, HIPS
Support Formats: STL/OBJ
Operating system: Windows XP/7/Mac
Support Software: Cura/Reptier-Host/Slic3r
Input Voltage: 12V
Power Supply: 12V/5A DC 100~240V power supply
Mains plug: US type
Nozzle: 0.4mm Ø (0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm optional)
Display: Wide angle LCD screen
Nozzle temp: 170 ~ 275°C
Overall dimensions: 500 x 475 x 480mm
Tronxy X-1 Desktop 3D Printer Kit (US Plug)
8GB micro SD card
Micro SD card/USB adapter
In summary, this kit can be made into a good printer, but in my case it took much more than just assembling the kit.
I had 3 quality concerns:
1) My unit arrived with AC wiring that was not color coded the same as the manual. Specifically L and N were reversed compared to the manual. This just shouldn't happen, and is potentially dangerous.
2) My unit arrived with the X-axis not micro stepping. As a result the X-axis moved twice as far as it should. Cured by debugging to a faulty component on the mainboard (possible since it's an open source design, and the schematic is freely available).
3) My unit arrived with a leaky extruder. This was caused by the heatblock tube not being screwed far enough into the heater block, so the nozzle was not able to seal firmly against the heatblock tube. Plastic was oozing up between the threads and over the heater block and then dripping onto the outside of the nozzle. (Cured by assembling correctly).
With these issues resolved, and with a few bed upgrades from thingiverse, I have a printer that is working well.
This is my second 3d printer, and my third CNC machine. With that experience I was able to resolve the issues I found with the kit as delivered. I think a first time user, or someone who doesn't have electronics experience would have needed really good support to get a working printer with the issues I found. However, If I found myself needing another printer, I might well buy another of these since it is capable of being made into a solid printer, even if it has issues out of the box. I like the metal frame design, it's very solid and this shows in crisp prints that have no signs of resonance.
I find the Z offset varies a little between when the machine is cold vs hot. Because of this I'd suggest that you let the printer stabilize for a few minutes after pre-heating before attempting to print, and adjust the Z offset so it's correct when the machine is warmed properly. Otherwise you'll find the first print starts maybe .1mm higher than the next print, and getting a consistent first layer is impossible.
Another tip I'd suggest is using an electronic angle gauge to level the X axis relative to the frame. Then check it from time to time (and when you have print problems), to make sure that the 2 Z-axis lead screws remain synchronized. I actually don't use the auto-level function, once the machine is correctly levelled (which you should do even if using auto-level) it actually stays level pretty well, so doesn't need auto levelling.This is my first 3d printer experience.
OK, so it took a long time to build, about 6 hours, but it's a DIY project. What do you expect, that's part of the fun of DIY. Want more pay more!
I have a fairly varied background in software and hardware but this project to get it up and running took a lot of effort and research. IT WAS WORTH IT, so far.
It's an amazing machine that has surpassed my expectations.
Con: heating element burnt out after 2 hours and trail and error with nothing good printed yet.
Pro: It was extremely cheap and easy to replace.
The biggest setup needed to print well, level, level ,level, everything.
Did not have half the problems noted out on the web about this product. Bed was stable, travel axis were tight, instructions, a little to be desired, but would not take much to fix, missing a couple of screws, wires a little short to make a clean wire setup.
Overall, very happy.