Meet the U-Glider - A great fun flyer with outstanding flying characteristics that will bring a smile to the face of even the most discerning glider guider!
At 1500mm wingspan, the U-Glider is big enough to give a great gliding performance while still being small enough to transport easily even without removing the 2 plug-in wing panels. The installed power system allows the option of a fast climb to altitude to search for thermals or simply grooving around and enjoying the superbly harmonized controls that the U-Glider offers.
Being supplied with a powerful 2208 2200kv outrunner motor, a 15A ESC and 3 x 6g servos already installed means that all that you'll need to add to have this fabulous glider airborne is a 4 channel R/C system and a 3 cell 800mAh LiPo battery.
Outstanding performance at a price that won't break the bank! It's what the U-Glider is all about.
• Plug and fly, simply add your own RC system and battery
• Tough EPO foam construction
• 2 Part plug-in wing
• Powerful 2208 2500KV brushless motor and 15A ESC installed
• Throttle, elevator, rudder and aileron control
• Carbon fiber tail boom
Material: EPO/carbon fiber
Wing loading: 14.4g/dm²
Motor: 2208 2500kv brushless motor
Servos: 3 x 6g servo
ESC: 15A w/BEC
Battery: 3S (11.1V) 800mAh LiPo battery (not included)
Radio system: 4CH system required (not included)
CG: 40-43mm from the leading edge
2208 2500KV Motor (installed)
15A ESC (installed)
3 x 6g Servo installed)
4 Ch RC system
2S 800mAh LiPo battery
I bought this after some good reviews on rcgroups ( https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2787342-Unique-Models-U-Glider-1500mm-Wingspan-EPO-Glider ) and a few youtube videos. I knew it wasn't plug and fly, but didn't realize that it needs pretty complete assembly. None of it is particularly difficult, but it isn't exactly easy to assemble to a reasonable standard without serious fiddling.
For instance, the pushrod runs are horrid as designed. They exit the boom inside the fuse at the bottom but the servo horns are at the top, making for sharp bends in the pushrods. I"ll be putting an exit in the boom as far back as I can to get a decent curve for the elevator run, and the rudder run outside the boom. The housings are pretty stiff plastic, so I replaced then with teflon. The pushrods are shipped coiled, making a permanent curve, so I replaced those with music wire from my stash.
The tail end of the pushrod at the elevator is better, but the rudder run is putrid. While I applaud putting both pushrods inside the boom, exiting six inches ahead negates any and all aerodynamic benefit that might otherwise offer. I've run it outside the boom, (as the fuse has exits molded in alongside the boom that was pretty obvious!) and added a very short torque tube to actuate the rudder, and ditched the stock control horns altogether. I've got some carbon fiber laminating up for replacements.
Removing the rear servo to get the wires under required cutting the fuse, which may come in handy when they need replacement, which seems likely as they've failed for so many others using the stock setup. And since i'm setting up with the rx under the wing, that was the only way to connect the forward servo without using an extension.
Aesthetically it's a bit of a mish mash. The wings are pretty enough to tempt me, the pod is very nice, but the tails don't come close to matching and need to have the tips reshaped to get the same kind of sleek look the wings have. I"m still considering a new set of tails from scratch but haven't yet decided. I'll fly it with stock before trimming them to the right shape; I suspect more than a few grams can be shaved off while enhancing rudder authority.
As one of the HXT500 servos I bought to install in the wing for flapperons died on the bench, a maiden fight is still at least one shipment away. I suspect she'll be a fine flyer once she gets the air beneath her wings.Great little Glider for the $, have done the mods, same as Andrew Newton straight out the of box so looking forward to flying as soon as batteries arrive, should have bought 2. Overall very happy with productAs said in a few other reviews, the servo arrangement is crap. It is a push-pull system using long wire as control linkage. Of course, even with zip ties, the wires just bend when the servo moves. Also the servo burns out when you use the elevator for more than 2 minutes, same with the ailerons, but the problem with them is that the servo is not strong enough.
The solution is to get some 9g servos, mount one in each wing, (with a trimmed piece of the supplied wire as linkage), and a couple micro servos, one to mount in the tail for rudder, and one to replace the weak one in the fuse for elevator. You will need 20-25cm servo extensions plus a Y-lead to connect the ailerons, and a 60cm servo extension lead to connect the rudder servo.
Doesn't cost much, but takes some work. However, with these mods, it is a true performer. Will stay in the air for 30 minutes slope soaring using an 850mah 2s battery.
DO NOT buy the suggested 40C battery pack. It is 40-50C, and will burn out you ESC with prolonged use. It makes the motor come off it's mountings even with them screwed firmly in with the power that battery provides. Also, that battery is TOO BIG to fit in the aircraft anyway. Use one of the 20C options.A flawed masterpiece - just a few simple inexpensive production mods would have made this glider outstanding.
1. put a servo in each wing, the single one in the fuselage is not up to the job.
2. put the elevator and rudder servos back to back on the fuselage centre line with their arms pointing outwards. Also move them forward for access via the aft part of the canopy hatch.
3. Add little foam skid under nose
4. Extend the whole trailing edge of the wings with a 3/4 inch strip of 3/32" balsa, drooped to to be a continuation of the top surface. Just butt joint against the thick T/E with superglue. The gliding performance of mine was much improved by this mod - it floats on forever. Amazing value for moneyI have to add that I have put a 40cm long adhesive white tape (50mm wide) on the fuselage underbody and a small one under the tail . This help keeping the foam undamaged when landing ! Lot of mods andt the result is improving the model.
The inside is full like an egg, because including also telemetry sensors... but this motoglider flies perfectly.Very happy with this light glider (looks like a DLG...).
Maiden flight this morning on a soccer field, no wind and French Riviera sunny weather conditions. Due to very good results, I have made 4 flights... and could do more: this was a pleasure, no need to mod trims!
I had read some reviews before buying and I had decided to modify some points at building time (some were well explained in videos):
- make wings apart for transport ease and no damage in car, so added a 4mm dia hollow carbon spar (2x12cms) with piano wire (2mm dia, 24cm long ) and fold it at middle to obtain the right dihedral. This also provides stronger wings and less fragility.
- replaced the wing screws by 3mm dia (30mm and 22mm) threaded ones.
- modify magnet system with specific steel wire latch to avoid canopy leaves the flight...
- made a clean installation of 2 digital thin servos in wings (MX95E, 4.3g): that gives better action on aileron and allows air brakes at landing.
- reduce the moving friction of all control surfaces (rudder, elevator, ailerons) by piercing half the length of the moving surfaces (dashed line effect) and added a cable guide in the middle of tail body (to avoid bending of the rudder cable and improves the precision).
- installed a 6 channel receiver (removed the box...) below wing. Choose TGY-iA6B with telemetry of plane battery voltage, RSSI and altitude.
With a 900mah-49g battery, CoG is correct: no need to add lead at tail or other. Decals equipped, flying weight is 285g and the stock motor-prop works like a charm...
Recommend...RCGroups has a thread dedicated to this U-Glider, and how to enhance it's performance and build. It is a really great glider, and is extremely stable in flight. I purchased two of these at the same time. The first I built to include a separate servo in each wing to give more versatility in my radio setup.
It does tend to be nose heavy, until you experiment with component layout. The canopy/lipo area is quite a bit forward of the wing and so finding any CoG adjustment is difficult to begin with. I ended up fitting the new FrSky G-RX8 receiver under the wing, and the esc in the fuse cavity, between the canopy and the wing. With a slight trim to each side of the fuse a Zippy compact 850 2S fits in perfectly with room to slide for optimum CoG.
With my second U-glider I followed a similar route, but fitted the rudder servo straight into the tail fin. this releases even more space in the canopy area which normally houses both the rudder and elevator servos.
This a great glider in the lighter winds when not much else flies, but will put up with strong breezes also. It's great on the slopes and really sniffs out the thermals as well. With a 350 2S the glider is as light as a feather for those thermally days. BUY TWO you won't be disappointed. Oh, and do read that RCGroups U-Glider thread.For $70 you cant go wrong! The glider is excellent. The stock electronics are fair and most of it is usable. After setting up and flying the U Glider per the instructions I've come to certain conclusions and made a few minor modifications that now make the U Glider an outstanding performer.(several others have noted these as well).
1. Immediately discard the single aileron servo setup for a dual setup as it allows camber and flaps or spoilers with an appropriate radio. The stock setup binds very badly and the supplied servo doesn't have the power.
2. Keep the elevator and rudder linkages smooth and the stock servos work fine.
3. A 2S 500Mah gives several powerful climbs and allows the use of the stock ESC.
4. I left my wing 2 piece and made my tail group removable with a single mounting screw from the bottom. Makes this a great compact travelling glider!
5. With the motor on a switch the throttle stick is free to work camber, flaps or spoilers. I mixed a bit of down elevator in with power.
6. The brake must be turned on. For those familiar with ESC programming, wait for the second set of tones and go to low throttle to turn the brake on. If not familiar, YouTube a video. Just can't have that prop free wheeling! %^)
FrSky 8ch RX
2s 500mah Turnigy Lipo
Hope this helps.
MikeI use a 500 3s, upgraded turnigy esc, this bird makes my other gliders look like they're in a hurry to come down! ;]Maidened her today. Did the servos in the wing thing, & am flying her on a little NANO-TECH 460 3S, which lasts for ages. What a brilliant thing. It does tend to sky under higher power & porpoise a bit, but will climb happily on very little. I do have a little reflex on the ailerons, which may have caused this, will remove for next flight.
Gliding she is brilliant, wants to float for ever, & flies just so sweetly. Very slow, so not for the adrenalin junkies, but I love it.