Este magníficamente detallada Micro P-51D Mustang está hecho de espuma dura de EPO y es muy escala dado que es diminutas dimensiones.
Ser Plug and volar, este Mustang se pueden montar en cuestión de minutos, el motor, ESC y del servo están pre-instalado, las plumas de la cola, luces de navegación, muy escala en el marco del carro y prop también están pre-montados y calcomanías pre-aplicado , dejando que se acaba de unir el ala, añadir los tanques de gota opcionales, si se desea, marque en su TX y ir a volar!
El control es completo de 4 canales y hay un servo para cada superficie de control para un control preciso, también hay un montón de potencia desde el motor sin escobillas outrunner, que se balancea una escala de 4 prop muy cuchilla y ruleta. Este sorprendentemente pequeña escala Mustang se ve muy bien tanto en el suelo como en el aire y es una necesidad para su colección de pájaro de guerra!
Longitud: 480 mm
Área de ala: 45dm2
Volar Peso: 190g ~ 200g
Motor: 2450kv sin escobillas Outrunner
ESC: 12A w / BEC
Servo: 4 2.5gx
hélice de repuesto
Enchufe En los tanques de descenso
Su propio canal 4 de TX / RX
Batería 450mAh Lipo 2S
SKU (Número de Referencia):
Peso ( g)
- SKU (Número de Referencia):
Just assembled, motor is not balanced - prop shaft points right and prop vibrates real bad at low revs. No way it'll take off. This one's going to need attention before flight.Got this plane and flew it and crashed right away. Not very windy during flight and broke both props and the tail. Not very strong wheels broke to. so mad I spent money and I'm angry.Wow! What a POS! Just got mine in the mail today, well packaged and completely undamaged. The plane has a very nice scale appearance. Here's what I found:
1) Cold solder joints to ESC for battery cable. Had to resolder, looked good.
2) Red LEDs for both left and right wing tip. (not a big deal)
3) Model seems very heavy for its size. The landing gear has solid rubber wheels. Ma need to remove them.
4) Drop away tanks are loose on their mount. One of the tanks was missing a ball connector and is unusable as supplied unless I glue it permanently. ( I figure they would too much drag anyway)
5) Ran motor at full throttle for 30 seconds to check for excessive heat from ESC. The ESC was fairly cool, but the motor housing was red hot and melted the plastic motor mount.
6) Prop attachment screw is stripped and cannot be turned with a screwdriver.
7) It appears the motor was attached to the firewall with wood screws instead of machine screws.
Unfortunately, I may never get to fly this model. Its sad because its really nice to look at, but mostly because I just lost $76 just for the privilege of watching a motor melt off an airplane and fall on the floor...I'm really starting to love this little bird. I have upgraded the motor, ESC and propeller. I have also decreased the throw for the elevator, put a steerable tail wheel on the rudder and made metal landing gear. Now it's flying nice and fast. On a 3S battery it's a rocket. I'm using both 2S and 3S batteries. 2S-1000MAh and a 3S-500MAh fit nicely. CG I'm using is 34/35mm. I use the trailing edge of the small circles on the wing. I've located the ESC and RX just infront of the servos for the rudder and elevator. You'll need to cut some foam for a nice fit.
Motor: ADH300S 2400Kv outrunner
ESC: TowerPro W18A ESC
Propeller: 6x4 APC prop with 3mm eflite adapter
***MUST READ FLIGHT***
The cross member for the elevators is made of flexible plastic. This is causing the left elevator to be delayed maybe even move less than the right side. I noticed this during hard full up elevator. The plane was acting like it was also using right Aileron.
***Things to upgrade before flight**.
1. You "MUST" make a metal cross brace for the elevator. If you do not you will crash.
2. Make metal landing gear. Stock gear is cheap plastic with a wire core. This will break with the first hard landing.
3. Make a steerable tail wheel. You can just put on on the rudder or you can rig on up in the original position, but you'll need to do some foam cutting.
4. Order lots of propellers or put on an after market prop. The stock prop blades do not extent all the way to the shaft. They are only attached to the outer housing of the spinner. This is a very fragile design.
5. Buy the 500mAh 3S batteries. You'll need to widen the battery compartment, but it's worth it.
For $60 this plane is good if you know what you're getting into. She flies fast and aerobatic once you fix the elevator issue.Weight reduction continued:
5) Use lighter batteries. I used Rihno 360mAH batteries. Didn't get much flying time but she was flying!
The instruction manual is 2 pages long, 1 entire page was the specs for the stock ESC. Even worse, it says CG is at 160mm from main wing's LE. Uhh.. that's 1/2 distance of aircraft total leigth. Correct CG is more like 16mm from main wing's LE. I had to add 1/4oz lead to the nose to get her balanced. Good luckI've bought this plane from Banana.com a month ago.It's pretty looking but not very air-worthy. 2 other guys in the field had same problem and eventually shelved theirs for good.
After a dozen crashes and twice the amount of repairs and mods, I've finally figured out the tricks and got mine flying. EXTREME weight reduction! Trim all the fats and dead weights to make her light as possible. IncludingL
1) Remove frront and tail landing gears (cover wheel wells with tape) 2) Remove plastic vent aft of fuse 3) Cut off cockpit interior, leaving only the magnetic section to keep hatch secured. Paint inside of canopy for asthetic look 4) Hollow out the fuse' interior foam. There is so much fat inside her belly that could've blocked ventilation for the esc.