Es un monstruo!
El motor más grande que hemos tenido!
Apretados, bobinas de cobre de espesor y 48SH imanes hacen que este motor una potencia real. El motor también tiene v2 atornilladas tapas laterales debido a la amoung de par motor produce este motor!Modelo: TR80-100-A
Potencia máxima: 7000W
Inactivo actual: 3.5A
Voltaje de entrada: máx. 48V
Kv: 180 rpm / V
Rango de voltaje: 20-48v
No corriente de carga: 3.3A
Equivalente: motor de gas 60-80cc
SKU (Número de Referencia):
Peso ( g)
Kv (rpm / v)
Unit Weight (g)
Corrientes max (A):
Resistencia ( MH ):
Max Voltaje ( V )
Potencia ( W )
Un eje ( mm ):
B Longitud ( mm ):
C Diámetro ( mm )
Puede longitud D ( mm )
Longitud Total E ( mm ):
- SKU (Número de Referencia):
Hallo guys can you tell me another dealer who sells this motor, i wait now 7 month for that motor. i think you dont become this motot in stock again!! why you post it here??I retired my 35pcnt yack because i bought5 a hangar 9 beast The motor was a hacker a150 at 900 bucks and the 220 amp esc was 900 also So i wasnt going to invest in having them both flying at once BUT with this motor and a 200 amp esc i WILL because the cost it tiny compared to the beasts drive train. AWESOME and im glad it can happen soon.Hi there,
got the arrival notice for Turnigy 80-100-A 180Kv Brushless Outrunner this morning. Wanted to order one. Bad luck, stock is already ZERO again :-( Don't know how many arrived but definitely not enough. Would be great if you could supplement your stock soon (and enough). I'd like to order one soon.
DomI've bought 6 of these.
I'm incorporating a pair of them in an open source electric paramotor project that I'm working on.
The motors run very hot when pushing serious amps through them.
I'm using them in combination with the monster 200A ESCs. The ESCs won't get luke warm.
I'm using 20(!) 6S 5.8Ah batteries. 5 5 in parallel for each motor.
Does anyone have a recomdation for a fan to mount on the back of the motor to push air through it to keep it cool?
Please let me know if you're interested in the paramotor project.es el segundo motor que compro, el primero funciona bien, pero este vibra una barbaridad, incluso le he cambiado los rodamientos y sigue vibrando. Imposible de reparar, lo he tirado a la basura.This is a Question I could use some help with. Im building a 1/5 scale hawker hurricane, 8 ft. span. Im thinking of using the turnigy TR80-100A 180 Kv motor. Ill also use with it a 24 or 25/12 3blade prop. Any one have any ideas ,thoughts on an esc for this setup. I admit this electric is new to me. so any help is really appreciated. Im going electric as I really dont want to destroy the scale lines of the cowling or plane. also the plane will weigh 30lbs or less Im hoping . thanksI BOUGHT TWO OF THESE. THE WINDINGS WERE VERY LOOSE ON ONE AND SOME HAD SLIPED OFF THE STATOR. I HAD TO DISASEMBLE THE MOTOR AND PUT THEM BACK ON THE STATOR AND USE MOTOR VARNISH TO GLUE THEM ON. THE OTHER ONE HAD A VERY SHALLOW SNAPRING GROOVE SO WHEN I RAN IT ON THE BENCH IT CAME APART AND THE SNAPRING DESTROYED THE REAR BEARING. SENT AN E-MAIL TO HK BUT ITS GOING TO TAKE A WHILE TO GET THIS RESOLVED AS IT IS TAKING 5-7 DAYS PER E-MAIL TO TALK TO ANYONE. HOPE THEY CAN GET THE Q/C PROBLEMS SOLVED AS I HAVE A TURNIGY SK THAT HAS LOOSE WINDINGS ALSO. DISAPOINTING AT BEST.........LURCHThis is a very powerfull motor, enough to take a human into the air, me!
I made an electric paramotor using this motor and turnigy monster 2000 speed controller and turnigy batteries.
check the test flights:
I really like this motor. WIll be moundet in my wigens with 2,3m wingspan and 10kg flying weight, wanna use 12s1p 4000 for flying with a 22x12 propReceived my motor after waiting for 2 months. The motor was very tight and I could only turn it part way round. I should have sent it back, but the return post plus the original postage (which hobby king will not refund) came to near the price of the motor.
I thought the large bearing might be stuck with screw lock fluid. I removed the rear cover. Still tight. I then removed the outer screws holding the bearing carrier. The motor became free to turn. I notice that the three bundled wires had no insulation where they entered the body.
I thought it could be the wires shorting giving the problem. I covered the gap with heatshrink. Without this it would have been a potential disaster waiting to crash my model. Each time I tightened the outer screws, it made the motor stiff again. I finally reased the grub screws holding the shaft at the front, then carefully tapped the shaft with a hammer, forwards then back. This resolved the problem. The rear bearing was heavily end loaded by the shaft because of very tight fit and poor assembly sequence. I hope the motor will now be OK