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Stampante Mini Fabrikator 3D da piccole Boy - 110V Stati Uniti - Arancione

Stampante Mini Fabrikator 3D da piccole Boy - 110V Stati Uniti - Arancione

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SKU:
9171000772-3
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Mini Fabrikator stampante 3D da piccolo Boy vi soffiare via con la qualità di stampa una piccola macchina in grado di produrre, è paragonabile a grandi macchine molte, molte volte il prezzo. Il nostro obiettivo di portare la stampante al mercato è stato quello di offrire ai nostri clienti un modo economico per provare la stampa 3D con un ingombro che può ospitare i primi progetti più di hobbisti. A causa delle piccole dimensioni complessive di questa stampante che si adatti anche il più limitato di spazi di lavoro e può essere recuperata e facilmente immagazzinati, che lo rende ideale per le scuole e gli studenti.

La stampante TinyBoy originale è stato progettato Parker Leung intorno a un concetto che entro il 2016 ogni studente deve avere la possibilità di avere una stampante 3D sulla loro scrivania; la gioventù è il nostro futuro e questo è parte del motivo per cui abbiamo ottenuto dietro di esso. L'altro motivo era perché l'incredibile qualità di stampa si può raggiungere in questa stampante per un basso costo.

Come hardware qualsiasi Mini Fabrikator ha bisogno di un software per farlo funzionare, si consiglia di utilizzare Repetier-Host, come il software di stampa in quanto è un semplice da impostare e usare il programma che la maggior parte i clienti avranno installato e funzionante in circa 15 minuti. Oltre a questo la stampante è pronta a partire.

Abbiamo anche partenered con piccolo ragazzo in modo che siano in grado di utilizzare la loro comunità per discutere il vostro Mini Fabrikator con altri utenti, condividere idee e mostrare i vostri progetti di stampa più lastest. Troverete anche altri utili consigli e trucchi, le impostazioni Repetier-Host, copia del manuale e tenersi aggiornati con le ultime notizie dal team Boy piccolo. Fai clic qui per saperne di più.

Piccolo ragazzo è stato originariamente concepito come attività di apprendimento in cui gli studenti delle scuole avrebbero costruito la stampante se stessi, questo significa che la stampante è incredibilmente facile da mantenere e riparare se stessi e anche l'aggiornamento con le cose come le luci a LED, raffreddamento diretto, schermo LCD e slot per schede SD o anche un letto di stampa termica.

Per ulteriori informazioni guardare questi video:
Video giornaliera
Guida Set-up
Guida alla stampa

Mini Fabrikator da piccolo ragazzo, la stampa 3D per tutti.

Caratteristiche:

• Ampia area di stampa per la sua dimensione complessiva
• Open Source progettato e sostenuto
• Compatibile con molte applicazioni popolari e software
• Portatile e facile da configurare
• A prova di futuro, con facile guidato dalla comunità modifiche fai da te
• hardware basato Marlin con la capacità di espansione
• Divertimento per tutte le età

Specifiche:
Dimensioni: 15cm (W) x 15cm (D) x 22 centimetri (H) (escl supporto filamento.)
Formato di stampa: 80mm x 80mm x 80mm
Filament: 1,75 millimetri PLA
Tavola:   ramps1.4 Mega2560 con 4 A4988 stepstick
Alimentazione: esterna 12V 6A Transformer
Software: Repetier-Host

TinyBoy è una stampante 3D design aperto e si possono ottenere i dettagli qui conto Github (http://github.com/HKCOTA/TinyBoy) che è sotto una licenza Creative Commons Attribuzione-Condividi allo stesso modo 4.0 Internazionale licenza CC-BY-SA

  • SKU 9171000772-3
  • Brand Mini Fabrikator
  • Capacità ( mAh ) -
  • Peso 4350.0000
  • Lunghezza 400.00
  • Packaging Width 330.00
  • Altezza 330.00
  • Mini Fabrikator 3D Printer By Tiny Boy - Orange - US 110V
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Great little printer! Shipping was very fast from Hong Kong; only 4 days to US. I have an Ultimaker 2 so I was a bit skeptical about the Fabrikator Mini. It arrived fully assembled and very well packed; no damage. I went through the setup in the manual. Only issue was the heated bed kept defaulting to "ON" and the print wouldn't start even though I was printing with a filament setting that sets the heated bed to zero. So I just changed the default filament settings and deleted my custom filament setting and everything worked fine. Printed some feet to raise the base for better air flow. First one printed fine. Then I got a terrible jam. I could not remove the filament. After disassembling the hot end I realized there was a burr in the heatsink preventing the bowden tube from being inserted fully. I cleaned up the burr by hand with a drill bit, reassembled everything, and it worked perfectly. Printed the rest of the feet and an octopus from Thingiverse. Print quality was very good with the default settings. The build volume is small but for the price it is the perfect for your first 3D printer.

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Great little printer! Shipping was very fast from Hong Kong; only 4 days to US. I have an Ultimaker 2 so I was a bit skeptical about the Fabrikator Mini. It arrived fully assembled and very well packed; no damage. I went through the setup in the manual. Only issue was the heated bed kept defaulting to "ON" and the print wouldn't start even though I was printing with a filament setting that sets the heated bed to zero. So I just changed the default filament settings and deleted my custom filament setting and everything worked fine. Printed some feet to raise the base for better air flow. First one printed fine. Then I got a terrible jam. I could not remove the filament. After disassembling the hot end I realized there was a burr in the heatsink preventing the bowden tube from being inserted fully. I cleaned up the burr by hand with a drill bit, reassembled everything, and it worked perfectly. Printed the rest of the feet and an octopus from Thingiverse. Print quality was very good with the default settings. The build volume is small but for the price it is the perfect for your first 3D printer.

I've had 8 days to play with mine so far. Only took 2 days to get here from HK. It's built pretty well but the tolerances on some parts could be better like the rail supports as they have a little slack. The screw for the y axis limit switch needs to lose the nut and possibly moved away from the switch by a mil to safely get the full 80mm. The X axis needs to be either set to 85mm instead of 80mm in the firmware to use the whole table and have it centered properly or set to 83 and move the switch closer to the outside of the machine a mil so its centered but not running the extruder right to the edge of the table on the other side. The z axis needs a notch on the top of the carriage corner so the wires for the limit switches don't get pinched on the last 2 mm of travel up top. The current limiters need to be set under the motor limits so people stop getting fried motors, mine were set a lot higher then the motors were rated for, and now work fine turned down although still hot. The extruder fan blows hot air all over the Y axis motor which explains why a lot of people lose y axis precision in the middle of long prints from it overheating so a better fan setup and/or y axis carriage arrangement is needed. The bottom of the machine needs to be vented with a fan and alot more passive vents to keep the 2 motors and board cool, i just printed the corner feet that are going around to have a big air gap on all sides and put a old pci slot fan underneath with the inlet facing up to b

verified_user Quality:
trending_up Value:
playlist_add_check Overall:

I've had 8 days to play with mine so far. Only took 2 days to get here from HK. It's built pretty well but the tolerances on some parts could be better like the rail supports as they have a little slack. The screw for the y axis limit switch needs to lose the nut and possibly moved away from the switch by a mil to safely get the full 80mm. The X axis needs to be either set to 85mm instead of 80mm in the firmware to use the whole table and have it centered properly or set to 83 and move the switch closer to the outside of the machine a mil so its centered but not running the extruder right to the edge of the table on the other side. The z axis needs a notch on the top of the carriage corner so the wires for the limit switches don't get pinched on the last 2 mm of travel up top. The current limiters need to be set under the motor limits so people stop getting fried motors, mine were set a lot higher then the motors were rated for, and now work fine turned down although still hot. The extruder fan blows hot air all over the Y axis motor which explains why a lot of people lose y axis precision in the middle of long prints from it overheating so a better fan setup and/or y axis carriage arrangement is needed. The bottom of the machine needs to be vented with a fan and alot more passive vents to keep the 2 motors and board cool, i just printed the corner feet that are going around to have a big air gap on all sides and put a old pci slot fan underneath with the inlet facing up to b

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