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Printer Mini Fabrikator 3D por menino minúsculo - 110V US - Orange

Printer Mini Fabrikator 3D por menino minúsculo - 110V US - Orange

Discontinued Product

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SKU:
9171000772-3
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Printer Mini Fabrikator 3D pelo menino minúsculo irá surpreendê-lo com a qualidade de impressão um pouco máquina pode produzir, é comparável a grandes máquinas muitas, muitas vezes o preço. Nosso objetivo com trazer esta impressora para o mercado era de oferecer aos nossos clientes uma forma rentável para experimentar impressão 3D com uma pegada que pode acomodar primeiros projectos de mais amadores. Devido ao pequeno tamanho geral desta impressora vai se encaixar no mesmo o mais restrito de espaços de trabalho e pode ser pego e facilmente armazenado, tornando-o ideal para escolas e alunos.

A impressora TinyBoy original foi projetado Parker Leung em torno de um conceito que até 2016 todos os alunos devem ter a oportunidade de ter uma impressora 3D em sua mesa; a juventude é o nosso futuro e isso é parte da razão pela qual temos por trás dele. A outra razão foi por causa da incrível qualidade de impressão que você pode alcançar nesta impressora para um custo tão baixo.

Como qualquer hardware de computador do Mini Fabrikator precisa de software para executá-lo, recomendamos usar Repetier-Host como o software de impressão, pois é um simples de configurar e usar o programa que a maioria dos clientes vai ter instalado e funcionando em cerca de 15 minutos. Fora isso a impressora está pronta para ir.

Temos também partenered com menino minúsculo assim que você é capaz de usar sua comunidade para discutir o seu Mini Fabrikator com outros usuários, compartilhar idéias e mostrar seus projetos de impressão lastest. Você também vai encontrar outras dicas e truques úteis, configurações Repetier-Host, cópia do manual e manter-se atualizado com as últimas notícias da equipe de menino minúsculo. Clique aqui para saber mais.

Menino minúsculo foi originalmente concebido como uma atividade de aprendizagem onde os alunos da escola iria construir a impressora si, isto significa que a impressora é incrivelmente fácil de manter e reparar a si mesmo e até mesmo atualizar com as coisas como luzes LED, arrefecimento directo, ecrã LCD e slot para cartão SD ou mesmo uma cama de impressão aquecida.

Para mais informações, assistir a esses vídeos:
Vídeo diária
Guia de set-up
Guia de impressão

Mini Fabrikator pelo menino minúsculo, impressão 3D para todos.

Características:

• Grande área de impressão para a sua dimensão global
• Open Source concebido e apoiado
• Compatível com vários aplicativos e softwares populares
• Portátil e fácil de configurar
• À prova de futuro com fácil impulsionada comunidade modificações DIY
hardware • base Marlin com capacidade para expansão
• Diversão para todas as idades

especificações:
Tamanho: 15cm (W) x 15cm (D) x 22 centímetros (H) (exc titular filamento.)
O tamanho de impressão: 80 milímetros x 80mm x 80mm
Filament: 1,75 milímetros PLA
Borda:   ramps1.4 mega2560 com stepstick 4 A4988
Alimentação: Externa 12V 6A Transformer
Software: Repetier-Host

TinyBoy é uma impressora 3D design aberto e você pode obter os detalhes aqui conta Github (http://github.com/HKCOTA/TinyBoy) , que está licenciada sob uma Licença Creative Commons Atribuição-Compartilhamento pela mesma Licença 4.0 Licença Internacional CC-BY-SA

  • SKU 9171000772-3
  • Brand Mini Fabrikator
  • Capacidade ( mAh) -
  • Peso 4350.0000
  • Comprimento 400.00
  • Packaging Width 330.00
  • Altura 330.00
  • Mini Fabrikator 3D Printer By Tiny Boy - Orange - US 110V
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Great little printer! Shipping was very fast from Hong Kong; only 4 days to US. I have an Ultimaker 2 so I was a bit skeptical about the Fabrikator Mini. It arrived fully assembled and very well packed; no damage. I went through the setup in the manual. Only issue was the heated bed kept defaulting to "ON" and the print wouldn't start even though I was printing with a filament setting that sets the heated bed to zero. So I just changed the default filament settings and deleted my custom filament setting and everything worked fine. Printed some feet to raise the base for better air flow. First one printed fine. Then I got a terrible jam. I could not remove the filament. After disassembling the hot end I realized there was a burr in the heatsink preventing the bowden tube from being inserted fully. I cleaned up the burr by hand with a drill bit, reassembled everything, and it worked perfectly. Printed the rest of the feet and an octopus from Thingiverse. Print quality was very good with the default settings. The build volume is small but for the price it is the perfect for your first 3D printer.

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Great little printer! Shipping was very fast from Hong Kong; only 4 days to US. I have an Ultimaker 2 so I was a bit skeptical about the Fabrikator Mini. It arrived fully assembled and very well packed; no damage. I went through the setup in the manual. Only issue was the heated bed kept defaulting to "ON" and the print wouldn't start even though I was printing with a filament setting that sets the heated bed to zero. So I just changed the default filament settings and deleted my custom filament setting and everything worked fine. Printed some feet to raise the base for better air flow. First one printed fine. Then I got a terrible jam. I could not remove the filament. After disassembling the hot end I realized there was a burr in the heatsink preventing the bowden tube from being inserted fully. I cleaned up the burr by hand with a drill bit, reassembled everything, and it worked perfectly. Printed the rest of the feet and an octopus from Thingiverse. Print quality was very good with the default settings. The build volume is small but for the price it is the perfect for your first 3D printer.

I've had 8 days to play with mine so far. Only took 2 days to get here from HK. It's built pretty well but the tolerances on some parts could be better like the rail supports as they have a little slack. The screw for the y axis limit switch needs to lose the nut and possibly moved away from the switch by a mil to safely get the full 80mm. The X axis needs to be either set to 85mm instead of 80mm in the firmware to use the whole table and have it centered properly or set to 83 and move the switch closer to the outside of the machine a mil so its centered but not running the extruder right to the edge of the table on the other side. The z axis needs a notch on the top of the carriage corner so the wires for the limit switches don't get pinched on the last 2 mm of travel up top. The current limiters need to be set under the motor limits so people stop getting fried motors, mine were set a lot higher then the motors were rated for, and now work fine turned down although still hot. The extruder fan blows hot air all over the Y axis motor which explains why a lot of people lose y axis precision in the middle of long prints from it overheating so a better fan setup and/or y axis carriage arrangement is needed. The bottom of the machine needs to be vented with a fan and alot more passive vents to keep the 2 motors and board cool, i just printed the corner feet that are going around to have a big air gap on all sides and put a old pci slot fan underneath with the inlet facing up to b

verified_user Quality:
trending_up Value:
playlist_add_check Overall:

I've had 8 days to play with mine so far. Only took 2 days to get here from HK. It's built pretty well but the tolerances on some parts could be better like the rail supports as they have a little slack. The screw for the y axis limit switch needs to lose the nut and possibly moved away from the switch by a mil to safely get the full 80mm. The X axis needs to be either set to 85mm instead of 80mm in the firmware to use the whole table and have it centered properly or set to 83 and move the switch closer to the outside of the machine a mil so its centered but not running the extruder right to the edge of the table on the other side. The z axis needs a notch on the top of the carriage corner so the wires for the limit switches don't get pinched on the last 2 mm of travel up top. The current limiters need to be set under the motor limits so people stop getting fried motors, mine were set a lot higher then the motors were rated for, and now work fine turned down although still hot. The extruder fan blows hot air all over the Y axis motor which explains why a lot of people lose y axis precision in the middle of long prints from it overheating so a better fan setup and/or y axis carriage arrangement is needed. The bottom of the machine needs to be vented with a fan and alot more passive vents to keep the 2 motors and board cool, i just printed the corner feet that are going around to have a big air gap on all sides and put a old pci slot fan underneath with the inlet facing up to b

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